Harpo
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Posts posted by Harpo
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Red Hill makes holsters that fit P80s as well.
I have one of their thumb break retention holsters for my 34 sized build.No photos yet, but it seems to fit properly and be well made.
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R&R Targets makes a couple(one is his own design, the other is a modded Vepr clone from Turkey) and both have AR-style controls. I've only seen one in person, a Wright-12, and it seemed to run pretty good.
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Looks like a good bag! The dedicated/labeled pouches remind me of the one from DAA.
Personally, I'm running a Spec-Ops Brand T.H.E. Pack, Tactical(that's a mouthful!) for USPSA and hunting. It also works as a carry-on bag on most flights if you don't stuff it completely full. It's held up really well, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again.For 3-gun, I've been using a tool bag from Home Depot or Lowes, which sounds kind of similar to the electrician's bag @XDoctor mentioned. Don't remember the brand or dimensions, but the tool pockets around the outside and inside work great for mags, and everything else fits in the main "compartment" of the bag. It came with a shoulder strap that seems sturdy enough, and it fits everything I need for a club match.
Normal loadout for USPSA in backpack - 1gal water jug, 10 loaded mags, pistol in a soft case, ear & eye pro, 200-300rd 9mm, gloves, hat, bandaids, snacks, screwdriver, squib rod, and I use one of the cinch straps to hold my belt when I'm not wearing it.
Normal loadout for 3-gun, in tool bag - 5 loaded 140mm mags, choke tube case and wrench, eye & ear pro, 100rd 9mm, 100rd .223, two boxes of birdshot, one small box of turkey loads, screwdriver, simple spares kit, chamber flags, 2-3 loaded 30rd mags, a 30rd/40rd coupled pair, a D60(not because I need it, but because it's fun
), gloves, snacks, and gatoraid(carrying my water jug). I could, admittedly, not bring the extra 9 and .223, spare chokes, and turkey loads, but because this way I don't have to go back to my car to get anything.
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Limited minor is a fine place to start, and that setup shouldn't hold you back for a while.
If you want power factor to play in less, I would ditch the magwell, pick up 6 new mags, and play in Production.
Get out there and have fun! -
Have you considered competing with a concealment holster?
Draws may be a little slower, but still manageable. I've seen a couple folks running carry holsters and doing ok. Just have to be careful reholstering.
That said, I use a Crossbreed for carry, Bladetech for competition, and sometimes I'll wear a Serpa while hunting. -
On 6/27/2019 at 3:29 PM, Mcfoto said:
This might sound petty, but I volunteer for work crew to get out of entry fees. Every little bit helps.
Someone above mentioned blue label Glocks. If you don't qualify, join GSSF and your second year you get a coupon for pricing that's on par with blue label.
Work crew volunteering saves money, lets you have a better feel for stages, and makes life easier for the MD, so that's a win-win.
The other cool thing with GSSF is that sometimes they'll bring used mags that you can buy at steep discounts. I can neither confirm nor deny that I've purchased enough mags to pay for my GSSF membership cost out of the savings...
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12 hours ago, kaw0357 said:
I could not see anything blocking the port. I have not had anytime to look into the problem further(I busted up my knee). My M&P AR15 did not come with the A2 front sight. It was this.
That sucks about the knee.
If the new block is correct in terms of rotation, you might use a business card or something to shim the block forward off the shoulder the width of that retainer plate(though some blocks do compensate for that distance). -
Oh, short stroking/undergassed makes sense.
Was the gas block you had switched to misaligned or did it have something wrong with the port in it(plugged by a burr or something)?
If the original was an A2 style front sight gas block, and it didn't fit under the handguard, you could cut it down and reinstall it.
If it was just a simple misalignment the carbon ring around the port should tell you if it was centered/which direction to move it.
Good luck! -
9 hours ago, MikeBurgess said:
we have a club locally that got several of these and they have 1 fatal flaw, the pry bar portion is welded to a relatively thin tube and when prying nails out that are anything beyond loose they bend the tube and become non functional. we are nailing into gravel and getting nails out may be harder than on other substrates so they may work great for you but around here the prybar portion killed them, the slide hammer part is great though
I think(though I may be mistaken) that part of the issue there was from people prying with just the tube and/or pulling the bar partway out for more leverage.
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On 11/18/2019 at 2:50 PM, AKJD said:
Make sure your bolt and bolt carrier are very well lubricated, don't spare the oil.
On 11/19/2019 at 4:18 AM, gerritm said:run the BCG wet with good oil.
5 hours ago, Bull0369 said:Clean the rifle thoroughly, then lubricate it liberally.
There's a pattern here....
The issues you're having could both be caused by a dirty(overgreased from factory) or dry bolt carrier group. Pull it out, clean it off(and clean inside the rifle, including bolt lugs), add oil: a drop or two into the gas key, onto the cam pin, thin layer on the bolt lugs, and thin layer on the bearing surfaces of the carrier(if you aren't sure where on the carrier, just get the whole thing oily). -
Help tear down after locals and scrounge targets that aren't too mangled - no-shoots and head box only ones tend to be in pretty good condition.
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I've gotten some pretty good groups with 52gr Nosler Custom Competition(which are available in 1k quantities), 55gr V-Max(250 count is the most I can remember seeing), and 69gr SMK(I have no idea what quantities are available).
I've also had just over 1" 5-shot groups at 100yd with Berry's FMJs(which I've heard some people say are repackaged Hornadys - I can't say if that's true or not, it's just what I've heard), so a lot of this comes down to your load workup, technique, what your rifle likes, and what you determine is "good enough"(I've probably spent more time than I should have chasing "the perfect load").
All punch paper well enough, and under 200yd it would be hard to argue with the price point of FMJs.
If varmints were in the equation, a V-Max does wonders, and the Custom Competitions aren't too shabby either. -
On 11/30/2019 at 4:51 PM, Atlasguy321 said:
so after I read your post it got me thinking. I’m very cautious when loading for any caliber, so the information didn’t make any sense. I went back to look in my load book to see what I was doing wrong when I saw the problem. At the time of that particular load development, I was loading 62 fmj and not 55s like I just bought. So yes, my 25.5 is well below pressure and needs to get bumped up which leads me to another question.
26 grains for a starting load seems incredibly high. What are you guys using for your 55g plinking loads? Cfe is a cheaper option compared to what else is out there but 26 grains is pretty high I feel like. If I can save a few grains that would be great.
10 hours ago, Yondering said:"seems incredibly high" based on what? Stick to the load data, not what "seems" right. Also, Hodgdon's data is for 223 loads, not the hotter 5.56 that your rifle is chambered in, so pressures shown in the Hodgdon manual will be even lower in your rifle. Your load is way under minimum; load to what the manuals tell you and pay close attention to the bullet weight.
Bingo.
Different bullet weights will have different data(lighter charges for heavier bullets), so you'll definitely want to refer to a manual.
As I recall, my 55gr FMJ/CFE-223 load uses 26.5gr of powder(which, of course, is only 0.5gr over minimum), and runs fine in multiple .223 Rem and 5.56x45 rifles/uppers.As far as saving money, the difference between 25.5 and 26.5 is only ten rounds per pound, which is nothing in the grand scheme of things if it gives you reliable cycling. (25.5 = 274rd/lb, 26.5 = 264rd/lb)
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I had that issue on my LNL this past week(before I discovered that I had a higher gauge pass rate with my Hornady dies, of course :p ).
I just flipped over the lock nut so that the o-ring was on top to make it work for me.
If it's working ok with the other nut on there, I'd personally just run it that way. -
12 hours ago, jeremy kemlo said:
Salomon x ultra 3. They come in low top, high top and wide versions. Water proof as well. Great light weight hiking shoes that are easy to run in.
https://www.salomon.com/en-us/shop/product/x-ultra-3-gtxr.html#color=18045
I were thin wool socks in the summer and thicker ones in the winter. Wool still keeps its insulation value when wet! I like Smart wool socks but I like Darn Tuff socks better. Darn thought have a life time warranty and a little more comfortable for me.
+1 on the Darn Toughs. I have several pairs, and plan to buy nothing else going forward. Absolutely the bomb.
If your feet are staying dry enough, I'd just run normal competition shoes with a set of good wool socks. -
If you have the 870, run the 870 until you know what you like and don't like about it.
I'm running a SuperNova with a tube. I feel that the stock port is fine for quads(though some chop the forend up to make it easier), and I didn't have to drill dimples or anything like that to make the tube work.Haven't run an 870 enough to comment on the trigger, or much else, for that matter, but I did notice with slugs at 100yd that the SN trigger is really heavy.
If the 870 is a 3.5" gun, the loading port may be ok for quads, but on the 2.5"(or maybe 3") that I have access to seems like the port is a little "deep", with a steep triggerguard, which may make it a little trickier.
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Bit of a necro-bump, but this seems like the best place to put it:
I got a casefeeder for my LNL, and it has been mostly good, except for cases hanging up in the funnel, between the collator plate and drop aperture(can't think of a better description at the moment), or between the bowl and plate after the aperture.
I saw this(https://www.sassybrass.com/sassybrass/product/casecage/) and made my own version of it(just because I didn't want to wait for shipping) with parts from the hardware store. Installation and alignment took about ten minutes and it looks like it should fix all of the issues I was having with the feeder.
Loading 9mm, by the way.
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On 9/13/2019 at 2:04 PM, m700 said:
Theres a few things you can do. What is happening is that the primer is ejecting and staying stuck to the primer pin and getting pulled back into the pocket
You can file the pin down to an angle so that it cant get stuck
On 9/13/2019 at 5:46 PM, Yondering said:No, grind a bevel on one side so it's non-symmetrical. About 45 degrees or so. Don't make the tip sharp.
What happens is the primer does get punched out, but sticks to the decapping pin, then gets pulled back into the pocket on the return stroke. The idea with a non-symmetrical pin tip is if the primer does stick to the pin, it'll get pulled back towards the case at an angle, and will fall off instead of sticking in the pocket.
This helps a lot with all of my progressive press dies.
Glad to hear you were able to fix your problem OP.
If the issue returns, try what these posts recommend on one of your pins. I had that issue until I added a set of angles to the tip, and haven't had a single primer pullback since then.I'll try to post a photo later if I get the time, but I did it a little different than some describe, to ensure off-center hits. Not sure if this makes sense or not, but if you are looking from the end and divide the tip into thirds, two of those thirds have angles filed and the third portion left alone. I haven't experimented with other styles to see if they work any differently though
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If the .356" is working, I'd stick with it.
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Both previous posters are correct:
-Check the diameter on the new bullets-Try different loads in that pistol
-Try that load in a different pistol
If none of those show anything wrong, pull a bullet to verify you aren't leaving a crimp ring.
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12 hours ago, himurax13 said:
Do you prefer 115 or 124 for making major and does a Hollow Point make that much of a difference.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Not an open shooter, but what I've seen in the 9 Major threads, it seems to be a matter of personal preference, though the 115s should make more gas.
Hollow points are supposed to deposit less lead in compensators because they don't have exposed lead bases(compared to FMJs); CMJs would also not have exposed bases. -
On 9/27/2018 at 4:14 PM, FWSixgunner said:
Update: my primer feed woes have been isolated to Winchester SPPs.
CCI 500, Federal SPSs, and CCI 400s all feed without a hiccup.
Hornady says they’re unaware of any issues with Winchester primers but are sending a new slide & tube.
Hope this fixes it, or there may be several thousand WSPPs appearing in the classifieds soon.Last weekend I had a primer hang up on the edge of a primer pocket and pop.
It was a WSP.Several weeks before that, I had one hang up in my primer feed tube, and I don't know how many I've accidentally crunched.
This makes me think L-N-Ls just don't like WSPs(maybe they're out of round or something). The only trouble I've had with CCIs(which I've run twice as many of through that press) has been due to me not leaning into the press enough on the priming step, so I'll be switching back to those for sure.
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On 9/18/2019 at 5:34 PM, Rnlinebacker said:
I recently switched from titegroup to WST with ibejiheads and it's def softer making the same power factor. loading 4.8 grains @ 1.205 OAL and making 169-170pf out of a 5 inch KKM barrel
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Those sound like .45 ACP numbers...
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On 9/17/2019 at 10:07 AM, jcc7x7 said:
005 to .020 of shoulder of bullets sticking out of the case.
1.250 oal
Crimp just straight, no more than .001 with bayou s
They feed great
This.
The Bayou 200s are basically H&G #68 style bullets, so 1.25" should be just right.That 231 should work great, and I've actually got fairly similar results with Titegroup, if you wanted to standardize on one powder.
), gloves, snacks, and gatoraid(carrying my water jug). I could, admittedly, not bring the extra 9 and .223, spare chokes, and turkey loads, but because this way I don't have to go back to my car to get anything.
Recommendations for aggressive 1911 grips?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
I have some VZ Operator II panels(and am thinking about going to the Techwell version of them), but the front portion has the aggressive golf ball pattern of VZ Recons, which look similar to the Lok Bogies.
Are you wanting something more aggressive than the Bogies, or just seeing what other options are out there?