BJB
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Posts posted by BJB
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43 minutes ago, Umbrarian said:
If this is not current please tell me:
The 2022 Area 4 Championship will return to The United States Shooting Academy in Tulsa, OK next year.The match is tentatively set for September 22nd - 25th, pending approval.That's for USPSA.
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BTW:
When you zero your gun, count your clicks to remove the screw, clean it, apply blue Loctite, reinsert the screw to the proper number of clicks, let cure for a day, shim rubber up under the sight.
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Happened to me as well.
This is at unload & show clear.
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Believe it or not, I called EAA and they sent me one gratis. Is your Stock 2 an EAA gun?
I've had trouble finding one otherwise, unless you look on a European site. Just have to find a similar type spring & cut it.
BTW:
Did you lose the original because the head of the screw sheared? If so, shim underneath the sight with a piece of rubber to keep the sight from flexing under recoil and you'll drastically reduce the metal fatigue to the screw head and greatly increase it's longevity.
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SP01 Shadow
in CZ
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Tanfos barrels are know for short leades. Get the throat reamed or load short.
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22 minutes ago, Stafford said:
Just wondering out loud... when the hammer/main spring gets weak from many rounds of live fire and numerous dry fire pulls, what happens?
If it's a lowered mainspring so your DA pull is lower, you can have lite strikes when the spring gets old and weak.
You said you had an extended firing pin so this possibility would be greatly minimized with most brand of primers.
If you have a factory mainspring that has seen lots of use it'll just keep on lighting off primers no problem.
The mainspring is not the first place to look for your issue.
For the issue you described, remove your over travel screw for a bit and see if your issue remains or goes away. Go shoot the gun for a while with the screw removed. Don't worry about anything else till you do this.
(Trouble shooting 101; start at the most likely reason & do one thing at a time.)
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30 minutes ago, Stafford said:
I have not done any adjustments to the overtravel screw. It is as it came from the factory.
You don't have to make any adjustments yourself, sometimes the overtravel screw will make adjustments on it's own.
Take it out and see about reliability then. When you put it back in clean the threads on the screw & the threads where it mounts in the trigger and apply blue Loctite.
Ammo has absolutely nothing to do with what you're describing.
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2 hours ago, Drillbit said:
Is it possible to just open the chamber dimensions?
No, don't do that. The chamber dimension is not the problem.
It's the short leade (short throat) that is the problem.
In a short leade the lands of the rifling start more abruptly than you would encounter normally. The ogive of the projectile is actually engaging the lands as the round is chambering. You have to decrease your OAL or ream the throat (not the chamber) to get those lands slightly further away from the chamber.
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3 hours ago, Drillbit said:
This is a bit disappointing, I can't afford to shoot new ammo.
My Apex barrel was throated shorter than my Stock II. Ream the throat of your Apex and shoot your reloads.
I got a Clymer throat reamer at Brownells and took care of my barrels.
(Note: these reamers are not to be used with super hard steel barrels that have been hardened with salt baths or similar methods. Glock, Walther, CZ, etc. They will ruin the reamer in just one turn. If you have a hardened barrel to ream you'll need a carbide reamer....or contact @MemphisMechanic.)
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Dry-firing a bit and getting used to indexing the dot is what you need to do.
Using co-witnessed irons with a dot is just gonna slow you down.
Dry-fire, do the work and get the reps in, there is no substitute or shortcut.
Focus 100% on the target at all times, not the dot. Focus on the target and bring the dot where you need it but don't focus on the dot.
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Slower burning...What?
N320 is the premier powder for 40 major.
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I'm not sure about Metro but Bersa is going to Talon Distributing (1-833-476-1547). They were both originally with Eagle. Might be worth a shot.
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delete
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Inside the seating die is a reversible stem, rounded & flat. Did you flip it to have the flat stem set the bullet since you're loading HP?
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14 hours ago, uhmeebuh said:
It resets intermittently and is likely due to the loop - I’ll have to do some more testing from what mpom said.
If the failure to reset issue occurs intermittently in live-fire but the gun always resets when racking the slide in dry-fire, you're likely experiencing sear flutter & need to replace the sear spring.
If you have the Apex sear spring in there, or just a real old OEM spring, it can weaken over time through use. What happens with a weakened sear spring is when the gun fires and the slide reciprocates the sear spring pushes the sear back up to be ready to catch the striker as the slide comes back forward but since it's weakened it rebounds slightly after initially resetting (bounces if you will) and misses catching the striker because of the bounce or flutter. Spend $4 or $5 and get a new sear spring and see if this takes care of your problem. You can do this fix yourself as it's quite easy.
When I put Apex in my M&P it was beautiful for a couple thousand rounds but then started experiencing intermittent failure to reset. The Apex sear spring is a little weaker than OEM and just weakened quicker. I put the factory sear spring back in & it solved the problem.
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Bottom edge of rear dovetail, front to back: ~0.44"
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On 6/14/2021 at 9:24 PM, uhmeebuh said:
I have an M&P gen 1 with an Apex trigger that...doesn't reset anymore.
Doesn't reset when you fire? Or doesn't reset at all, even when you rack the slide by hand?
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22 hours ago, PHarper said:
Hey there. I'm a new reloader, although I finally have everything dialed in pretty well on my Dillon 550. My question is, I am running low on CCI Small Pistol Primers. I keep finding Mag spp's at our local gun store, but I'm not sure if it's ok to use them for normal target load formula. Does it matter, is it safe?? Advice is much appreciated.
6 hours ago, Bagellord said:Have you ever chronoed them back to back with regular SPP?
Here's that video.
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1 hour ago, Bagellord said:
Have you ever chronoed them back to back with regular SPP?
Yes I have chronoed, in groups of ten. There is no difference in velocity between regular SPP and magnum SPP.....and this is with empirical data, not an assumption.
The only thing that is different is the hardness of the cup it appears, but this won't be an issue to you unless you have a greatly lowered mainspring on a DA trigger. I've used 10s of thousands of magnum SPP in my guns, including my CZs & Tanfoglio which have competition triggers, with no issues. Note that my competition DA guns do have extended firing pins though.
FYI: There has been a video posted on here where a gent presented his empirical data comparing the two primers as well. I believe the guy was a pistol builder. Conclusion was also that there isn't a difference in velocity between them. Search for that video.
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1 hour ago, davsco said:
...any rec's?
The Dillon tray mentioned above is good, but really any flip tray should be fine.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?searchTerm=flip+tray
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Is this for real or are you just playing?
Primer flip tray.
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You are correct, but that's 2.7gr under a 147gr head. You're putting 3gr under a 122gr head. The pressures will likely be very low & combustion of the powder will be very inconsistent. You'll likely notice that your spent brass will be very dirty/sooty. That's because the pressures won't be high enough to get a good chamber seal. Before you load up more of those it would behoove you to go shoot a few and see what you get.
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You're fine with a charge that weak.
1.07" for a 122gr FP isn't terribly short.
3.0gr TG under a 122gr bullet probably won't even cycle your gun.
Sport Pistol - Temperature Sensitivity
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Shouldn't be much difference. Sport Pistol is fairly temperature insensitive.