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NWPilgrim

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  1. WFT works great. I lay my Milwaukee 18v drill on its side and run new-to-me cases through it. About 5 seconds per case. I use Lyman prep center for chamfer and debur. Just about 1-2 seconds each step per case. Easiest of all prep steps. Also use x-dies. Size first time in regular FL die. Trim once to 1.750", adjust x-die to same length and never trim those cases again. For .223 that works fine. For .30-06 I don't like the friction on the case neck even with the x-die. So I removed the sizing button on the x-die, and after the x-die I run the case through a Lyman neck sizer with carbide sizing button, does not need lube inside the neck and works fantastic. I use to hand wipe lube off after each case after fully reloaded. After reading about extensive testing I now run loaded rounds through clean corn cob in vibratory tumbler for 15-20 minutes. First Time - universal decapping - wet tumble - lube with Imperial sizing wax - full length size - trim with WFT - chamfer and debur on Lyman center - Dillon super swager if crimped primer pockets - uniform primer pocket depth - prime - charge with powder - Seat bullet - tumble in corn cob to remove lube THEREAFTER - universal decap - wet tumble - size and prime on press with x- die - charge - seat bullet - tumble to remove lube I have extremely few cases fail with split necks these days. I lose more at the range (2%) than from case failure. I use mixed range pickup cases for plinking ammo (55 gr FMJ), and once fired LC for all match ammo.
  2. LowBoost, You seem to be a bit scattered. Not good for reloading. Perhaps you are jumping around between too many sources. You do not seem to have a good foundation understanding of reloading principles, but are eager to learn. Focus that to a main reference and work on the basics. Listen to what IDescribe advises, he is spot on for everything. Working up a new load should start with a loading manual that gives well tested and safe data including OAL as tested and max powder charge and bullet used. Start st the low end of powder charge (10% less than max if not listed). Use the listed OAL. This should be safe even with different primer and bullet brand. Work your way up to a max load that does not exceed the max velocity listed. Now you have a baseline for max charge. From there you. Can change one factor at a time and ladder test some more for velocity and accuracy. Increasing OAL will make more room in the case and therefore slightly less pressure so you could test a bit more powder. If you decrease OAL from lusted spec you will increase pressure and sometimes that can be significant. Mistaking OAL reduction for powder reduction is way off the charts of understanding. Really read through a reloading manual and not just skim for tidbits here and there. Reloading is a scientific endeavor, especially when you go beyond tested data. Don't just jump on the latest internet recipe and try to make changes to it without a good understanding of standard principles and methods. Takes time. Better to make simpler well tested recipes that work in all guns to start with. Modify for specific guns only when you truly understand the ramifications of them. Not intending to berate you, just giving you a warning that you are working beyond you level of understanding. We all started at the beginning and had to learn gradually. Take your time and you'll do fine. I've been reloading 30 yrs and made a few mistakes on the way, too! Still learning.
  3. Mainly interested in learning and sharing reloading info. Been reloading 30 years but always new powders and ideas come along. I've seen this forum referenced many times so figured it was time to join in.
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