DIYguy

XL650 press, station #4 Set up the trim die like a regular resizing die, removed the pin and screwed the die down until it made contact with the plate. Liberally lubed up a small batch of 223 cases and ran the first case into the die. Case stuck so bad it broke the case rim sides off where it was locked into the shell plate. Didn't think I was going to be able to get that case out of the gauge but finally succeeded. Tried again with the die set above the pin and worked down until end of case projected through the die. This seemed to work

Looked for info on setting up the RT1500 case trimmer and not much to chose from. The Dillon video states to setup the trimmer die same as a regular resizing die. Total amount of info provided. Normally a resizing die starts with screwing the die down until it makes contact with the shell plate. Problem is, station #3 and #4, typical location for trim motor have the pins installed and the trim dies solidly hits the pin heads. Other than removing the pins what are others doing for their setup?

Update and solution Went back and watched the MBF video about dropper assembly and then went back and disassembled mine. Discovered the balls were in the lower set of holes, the cotter pin was on the upper grove. After cleaning and reassembly and adjustment, so far so good, been working fine.

I thought about something similar or adding more weight to the dropper but when it's stuck in the up position I can't even push it down. Have to stick finger in the end to release the bullets. I tried to adjust the balls but seems the unit doesn't come apart to that level like the mini for 9mm does. Also sort of looks like one ball is stuck and I've tried to manually free it, hence the cleanings and lubes.

Update: Been working on load ladders with couple different powders, usually load (30) rounds of each powder and weight. Loaded close to (500) rounds so far. Have been having full time ongoing issues with the bullet dropper and the 55g Hornady FMJ-BTHP bullets. More times than not, the dropper sticks in the up position and doesn't drop a bullet. stick finger in the end of the dropper to dislodge the end and it drops several bullets. I have taken the whole dropper assembly off and apart several times, cleaned, lubed with silicon spray, wiped, adjusted, readjusted, readjusted and it still frequently sticks in the up position. Anyone else have this issue and have a solution?

Update: Lyman M-die installed in station #1 and ran (130) rounds of test loads through the press. After couple tweaks running fine, bullets seating properly. Contacted Josh at DoubleAlpha about the switch issue and was hesitant to "adjust" the switch contact without checking with them first. Response was to bend the contact and make it fit. Two pairs of jewelers needle nose pliers and some testing and now back installed and workings as intended.

The initial test I did were using Norma USA ammo. Further test showed the Norma is about 80 to 100 FPS +/- faster than another brand I tested. For reference I've attached a spread sheet template I use for every load and firearm when working up load comparison. 2nd page show the load work-up for different load weights. The spread sheet is used along with test targets to compare load and grouping. 20190903085200565.pdf Reloading Recipes-Rifle (DPMS 223) 9-03-19.pdf

Good to know. Time to order the Lyman M-die. Just came in from doing another test batch and the bullet feeder auto shut-off issue is still an issue. At least hope for one problem.

Question regarding the M die. I have approximately 10# to 12# of PMC 223 brass that has been wet tumbled- sized and decapped - wet tumbled again and finished with final tumble and wax. Brass is shinny and ready to load. If I set up an M die in my loading tool head does it just size the neck or will I need to lube the case to run it through the die?

Regarding bullet: Hornady 55gr FMJ-BT w/c so yes, boat tail. Separate tool head with just the Dillon carbide sizing, decaping die in station one, rest are empty. Just bought a Lyman vibratory cleaner with corncob and Dillon polish and experimenting with using this to clean lube after sizing. Have been doing wet tumble after sizing and finishing with another tumble with Armoral Wash-n-Wax.Havne't made up my mind on the dry tumble yet. PIA 2nd tool head: Station 1: Empty Station 2: Powder charge for 223 with funnel that came with it. Station 3: MBF for 556 / 223. Yes, came with the small spring and dropper tube, conversion plate. Station 4: Dillon seating die Station 5: Dillon crimp die If by output tube assembly you mean the tube that connect to the collator, small spring and connector for the top of the dropper assembly than yes. Is there a different powder funnel for 223? I understood there was not, just the original Dillon.

Just went through the process for the first time of converting my 650 from 9mm to 223. Bought the caliber conversion for the Mr Bullet feeder and started running my first batches of test loads. So far so good except for a couple bullet loading issues. Collator does not shut off when feed tube is full. The stop switch is not recognizing the bullets in the tube and the collator keeps running and will start filling the feed spring unless I manually shut off. I did a couple test and can manually move the the contact tab out to stop the collator but let go and it starts again even with a full tube. The 55gr 223 Doesn't seem to be pushing the contact tab out enough to trip the contact and shut off. Don't want to try and bend the tab without know exactly what I'm doing. Bullets falling off the case mouth. Using a dedicated tool head for 223 with the Dillon carbide three piece die set. When MBF drops the bullet into the prepped case is will fall off when I rotate the plate even when rotated slowly. I have to pinch the bullet and case before I rotate and continue until just as the bullet goes into the seating die.I use the MBF powder funnel for 9mm, it's the standard funnel with the 223. Am I missing something? Case mouth sizing? Any help?

Correction: Did four test of (10) rounds each, (40) rounds total Average low : 2,889.7 Average high: 2,975.5 Overall average: 2,934.7 fps

Good point. I did six chrono test with ten rounds per test of factory ammo, Norma Tac 55g, at 74 degrees. All the test came in pretty consistent at an average between 2,940 and 2,950. The factory ammo was grouping with four out of five rounds touching inside the 1" bullseye. 3x Vortex Spitfire optic. Correct load looks to be about 2,945 fps out of a 16" barrel. Published load data keeps saying in the 3,350 fps range but those are using 24" barrel so doesn't help. How many grains of AR-Comp behind a 55g Hornady bullet will result in 2,945 fps out of a 16" barrel. Individual results may vary

Did a search but didn't find the right data. Been using AR-Comp for my match loads behind Hornady 75g BTHP 223 on the single stage, spent a LOT of time doing the ladder workup, etc.Running those through an 18" Super Match barrel for 100 yards load. Looking to start loading 55g on the Dillon 650 for use in my 16" gun at the 25 yard range. All the load data is based on 24" barrel using 25.6g. Would prefer to start with a load that is pretty close to correct without having to go through all the trial and error test loads to get there. Anyone using AR-Comp for 55g 223 out of a 16" barrel and what are you loading?

Doing a complete rebuild on one of my ARs and while I have a pile of parts on the bench wanted to do a custom paint finish. Since this is my 16" barrel gun and more of a "door kicker" style set-up rather than long gun, wanted to replicate a battle worn finish I saw. I've already hung and spray painted the upper and lower receiver and hand guard with Krylon aluminum gray paint and letting that cure minimum one week. Plan was to do a flat black top coat then while not fully cured, sand and scotch brite buff the finish to create the worn look. Question I have is regarding chemical resistance. I like to use Lucas Oil Contact Cleaner for gun cleaning and concerned the solvents will eat the paint finish off the gun. Lots of posts out there about rattle can finish their AR's but haven't heard anything about solvent resistance after wards.

That's what I'm hoping. I've been swapping e-mails with DAA about buying the full Mr Bullet feeder for 223 if it works out OK adding the plate for 9mm to convert both calibers to full auto load.

Yesterday I went ahead and ordered the Mini Mr Bulletfeeder for the 9mm. Ya...I know "should have gone with the full auto version" argument but weighed the pros and con. I've been using the Hornady bullet die and tubes for couple years now and used to taking a rack of tubes and loading up about (100) bullets at a time. Same with my primers, hand loaded tube. Until I'm in the RT100 primer class I still have to stop and reload primers and bullets. I'm OK with pausing every hundred rounds, restock and go again. I usually only load 200 to 300 rounds per session when I can get time away to stand at the press. Also single load a LOT of rifle so split time. Also have two tool heads set up for 223 but haven't loaded anything yet, all single stage match grade ammo. If I like the bulletfeeder I'll order the 223 full version and try and get an extra plate for the 9mm. I'm already using the 9mm AA powder funnel on my powder drop. Plus, I've already put a hurt on the check book for firearm and reloading related goodies in the last month......

Currently already checking out the Mr Bulletfeeder. $470 for the 9mm. Was also looking at the Mini for $140 I did check bullet size and noted the coated measured .3565 so just a fraction over the .356 spec. Measured ten and they all measured the same so at least consistent.

I use the Hornady 9mm bullet feeder die on my Dillon 650 and it works great. Sent thousands of rounds down those tubes but they've been Berry's147g plated, in flat nose and hollow point. Over the weekend tried an experiment loading Acme 147g FP "lipstick" bullets. After changing all my settings for the new bullets started loading some test batches. First twenty rounds or so OK and then I could not get bullets to drop out of the die. Kept tweaking the die settings but no luck. Had to hand place each bullet to complete my test loads. Anyone else use this setup and run into any issues?

True to the longer bullet (loaded anyway). Because of the shape of the flat point bullet and location of the ogive I can only load the FP to 1.050 OAL for my CZ. With the HP bullets the OAL is 1.065 so I get an extra .015 in length.

With three squads and (65) to (72) shooters each week at our club match we have to move shooters quickly and that means scoring quickly. Scoring can be done 20' away most times, when in doubt have to walk up and check. Slows scoring down. Clean holes help and yes, I score also.

The main reason I originally looked at the HPs rather than the FPs was I noticed a slight difference in the contour of the bullet. The FPs have a straight taper to the side of the bullet and the HPs have a slight round to the sides similar to a Round Point. When I switched from the M&P Pro Core Carry Optic to the CZ Shadow2 I discovered the CZs are much more picky about bullet ogive and seating depth. My original loads would NOT go into battery as over all length was too long. Had to reduce my length by nearly .015 to pass plunk test. The ogive length on the HP is different than the FP so I have more tolerance for clearance at the same loading depth with the HP compared to the FP. Don't need a round hanging up and not going into battery while running against the clock. Any of my loads that don't pass the gage AND plunk test go into the range load box for practice.

9mm, 147g, Carry Optics, Minor.

Did a search but didn't find anything relevant. I've been loading and shooting 147g FP bullets since beginning of last year for USPSA. The 147g are subsonic and have a nice recoil and the Flat Points make nicer holes. Came time to reorder bullets and decided to try 147g Hollow Points. Nice grouping, no issues yet. My question is, what are the advantages of HP bullets over others? Noticed it seems like quite a few of the other shooters are using HPs but haven't tested to see if cleaner holes or other advantages. Haven't run HPs in a match yet, still using what I've previously loaded with the Flat Points but now need to restock. Any opinions?

Ordered the Redding Competition seating die with the micrometer plus the Redding Competition crimping die, also with micrometer. Received the dies and did the new set up process. Eliminated the powder check and moved the bullet feeder over a station. Good new is, after initial set-up and dummy load testing, the loads passed all the test (including plunk test) and no indent marks. Haven't run an actual batch yet, the wife and the ta-do list comes first. Interesting point regarding case belling. Watched a YouTube video I found for setting up the Redding dies and part of the setup was checking the case flare. Stated to flare the case mouth just enough so the case would lightly scrape the seating die when inserted. If it doesn't scrape, not enough flare. Worked. Eliminating the powder check: I did do an experiment using an endoscope I have and fit that to the hole in station #3 used with the powder check. Linked the scope to my iPad Pro and tried to set up a monitor to watch the powder levels without having to pear around the press and into the casing to confirm powder. Worked but didn't work. I could get an aligned view of the cases as they progressed but the glare from the lights wouldn't let the camera focus. Have the Inline Fabrication Skylight setup and lights on are too bright, no lights are too dark, get a reflection off the shell plate. Haven't given up yet.