random_guy7531

So I'm going to my first "large" match in a couple of weeks , and I wanted to just real quickly pick some folk's brains with regards to what may be different at a level 2 match as opposed to the more typical club matches. Off the top of my head, my main questions are: Any gear or items that I should bring in addition to my normal stuff? Are there any rules that are usually lax in clubs but become strictly enforced at a level 2 match that may bite me? Any mental tips w.r.t. maintaining composure and focus over a longer match? Really, any general notes on stuff you may have wished you did/brought/etc. to your first (or any) higher level match is certainly appreciated. Thanks!

I have a plain jane 4" PPQ, and from what I can tell, the mechanisms are identical (even if the spring tunings are not). At least, they are identical enough that the slides will mate between both guns, and will at least dry fire as expected. I have not attempted with live rounds, but I have no reason to believe they wont function together. The designs are actually close enough that I used my PPQ's firing pin in the Canik while I was waiting for the replacement. Now, the various springs are of noticeably different strengths - especially ever since the paranoia induced recall on Canik's part. My personal Canik predates the recall, and I never sent mine in, so I can't comment on what the newer ones are like. However I found that I liked the Canik trigger (pre recall) ever so slightly more than the PPQ's. The main thing I dislike about the Canik trigger is that the safety-dingus doesn't have the same geometry as the PPQ, and sometimes I fail to disengage it (particularly during one-hand shooting).

Oh this is great! Previously, I was not able to get spares, so I'm definitely glad they made them available (even if they are a bit spendy). I have had some (admittedly - rare/sporadic) issues with going into battery - in particular after slide lock reloads - so I just picked up the 6.5 lb Ghost spring you recommended. Hopefully, that will solve most of my problems. On a tangential note though, I do see that Ghost also has some ~4lbs striker springs available - has anyone tried those springs in a Canik or Q5? Do those lighter springs work better at all? I've never actually tried to tune springs on one of my firearms before so this is a bit of a new experience for me....

So my replacement parts just came in from Century (as well as my snap caps). Hopefully this issue doesn't persist, but I am concerned that the new striker assembly I was sent has a noticeably stronger spring than the one I removed. Is this to be expected? Will it wear in eventually as I break in the new component? If not, is there an alternative spring I should look to get and use? Thanks!

I don't have a Q5, but I do have a standard PPQ. I don't think the frames are different between the two (or at least they certainly did not seem to be from when I handled the Q5). On my PPQ, the trigger guard is 15.5mm +/- 0.1 wide except for back near the grip and undercut, where it widens out. At the farthest back where I would still consider it part of the trigger guard (as opposed to the mag release scallop), it appears to about 26mm.

Hey all, So today, for what is now the second time, I've had the firing pin break off the striker on my TP9SFX. Evidently, this seems to be a bit of a problem with these guns, and I am more than a little peeved that I haven't even had my example for a full year before having to replace it twice. Now, I assume that Century/Canik will replace my striker under warranty (they certainly did the first time around), but I wanted to check and see - does anyone here know of an aftermarket company making upgraded (i.e. more reliable/resilient) strikers for Canik pistols? I was looking around, and it doesn't seem like a titanium striker or similar is available. I don't even see anything for the Walther PPQ (which is 100% compatible with the TP9SFX). Additionally, if anyone knows what causes these breakages, let me know so I can avoid it in the future. Thanks!

Hey all, just wanted to follow up on this thread and thank you guys for the tip. Took a basic harbor freight file to the inside of the mag well, and I haven't experienced any sticky mag issues since then. Certainly appreciate the help!

Hey all - so I've been having a problem with my Canik that I haven't really paid much attention to until recently. Specifically, magazines tend to fail to drop free. They fall out ~2/3rds of the way out, but then bind right before falling free. It would be one thing if it happened only occasionally, but it has been occurring with sufficient frequency that I now have developed a bit of a nasty habit of manually stripping the magazines out. I am using both the standard magazines that came with the gun and the Century branded Mec-Gar magazines, and both appear to suffer from the failure equally. Has anyone else with an SFX (or other Canik) ever experienced this? If so, what did you do to solve it? I am hesitant to take a file or sandpaper to the inside of the magwell without more information, but if that's what I need to do, then so be it. Thanks in advance!

Hello all! Decided to try and be more serious about competitive shooting this year. Will likely be switching between my TP9-SFX in carry optics and my shadow 2 in production. Certainly looking forward to what I can learn.