mpeltier
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Posts posted by mpeltier
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21 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
Here is the real deal....how many of us can shoot a "real" group at 100 yards and beyond? If the conditions are PERFECT I can at 100. Absolutely not at 200 with any scope I own. I'm gonna try a 25 yard zero this week and see how it works out....
Say what???
What do you mean by "Real" group. Im no Chris Kyle, but myself and other shooters I know can shoot a group out to quite a distance. I always prove my zero at 200yds and generally have groups at that distance in the 2"-2-1/2" range with my game AR. My Son the other day shot a 4" group at 400 yards (with his Savage 16). He was cheating though, as he was using a new SIG BDX scope with paired range finder. Now reaching out to 600-800 yards and beyond is another story. I often shoot 300 yd groups of 15-30 rounds to see how much stringing my barrel exhibits with heat. Usually keep 30 rounds in 5" at 300 with my game gun. Definitely a "real" group.
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26"........Because thats what my dealer had in stock when I needed one.LOL
Seriously, It really doesn't matter as Tony said. I have used 21" M2, 28" Rem 1100 and 26" M3000. All were just as good as I needed. The barrel length was never an issue with any of them. There are more important considerations.
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My PCC is very accurate with anything I load. So my loads are based on what my pistol likes. Which is 124gr at about 1100fps. I find no good reason to have separate loads for my PCC and Pistol.
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Lets see a picture of the broken piece. That would solve the puzzle of what barrel was in that 3000. If it is a 3000 barrel the piece should be in the receiver as it would be a pretty significant piece. If its a 2000, 312 or pump gun bbl the piece would be very small and may even be lost.
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I have one. The HMR in 6.5 Creedmore. Its a fantastic rifle, but I think its a little on the heavy side for a hunting rifle. My son just got a deal on an X-bolt Hells Canyon-Speed. Also in 6.5 CM. I can't wait for it to come in as that seems like an incredible hunting rifle that could also work long range.
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I am also a Dawson precision fan. I use them on almost all of my handguns. If you purchase the front and rear together they give you whats called their "Perfect Impact" guarantee. If they don't regulate as you expect, a quick call to them will get you a free front sight to correct your point of impact.
The height you prefer is dependent on your aiming style. I think S&W sights are set up for a bullseye hold, sort of. I prefer a 6 o'clock hold for precise shots. I have found my M&P 2.0's to hit too low (even with a bullseye hold, thats why I said sort of.) even with Dawsons recommended .180 front sight.
Both my 2.0 5" FDE and my 2.0 9 compact have a .160 front with their .245 charger rear. Both guns hit the center of the bullseye at 15 yds using a 6 o'clock hold on a B17 target.
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My experience with the 2.0 5" mirrors Stealthy. In my case I like it so much I got rid of all my 1.0 M&P's and replaced them with 2.0's. One observation is in the accuracy department. My 5" is one of the first FDE models with the loaded chamber indicator. It is as accurate as my Pro model was with its gunsmith fit APEX barrel. A friend of mine recently purchased a FDE model 2.0 5" gun that does not have the LCI and his is not as accurate as mine. Its still a lot more accurate than many of the 1.0's that had accuracy issues, but his is about a 2" grouper at 15 yds, while mine is easily a 1" grouper as was my APEX bbl gun.
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I did a similar comparison between the following optics:
Trijicon Reflex II
Eotech XPS2-0 (Scince returned to Eotech)
Leupold Deltapoint Pro
Trijicon MRO
SIG Romeo 5X
I was so impressed with the SIG Romeo 5X it ended up on my PCC and the others are on other rifles I don't shoot much.
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8 hours ago, jkrispies said:
FWIW, the taccom ULW is basically just a 5.5” barrel with a really long linear comp on it. I like it a lot and don’t feel like I could ask for more out of the barrel.
Thats great, I am familiar with it. I'm sure the Taccom product is good, as I've used several of their products on this build, It doesn't really answer the OP's question though, as he was asking about a lightweight comp, not a barrel replacement.
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I have played around with several and settled on the Kaw Valley Precision linear comp available at Joebobs for under $40.00. This is a picture of the standard size on my 8.5" pcc. It is aluminum and quite light.
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I have rifles in 11.5", 16", and 20" (That used to be a medium weight 18"). I much prefer the 18" over all others for competition and have sent the 20" out to be shortened and given a medium weight profile behind the gas block. I feel balance is the most important aspect for a light shooting, easy transitioning rifle. I don't like a rifle that feels muzzle heavy. I prefer the bulk of the weight to be in the stock, and thats why I use a Magpul PRS stock. Total weight with my old 18" bbl was a little over 8lbs but it felt in the hands more like a lighter rifle and shot very very flat.
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I put a Apex FSS kit in my 5" 2.0. I liked it so much I also put one in my 2.0 compact. It is an amazing trigger for the M&P.
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1 hour ago, pete627 said:
You're absolutely correct ... I agree ... on the 2.0 it is indeed a slide stop.
Every once in a while ... shooting production or steel ... and not making that last shot/plate and needing just one more my 1.0 has saved my butt ... I've even got a chuckle once when someone said "hey!! did you reload??" It didn't take two hands. If it had not slammed closed I would have simply slid the slide release down with my thumb as I moved my weak hand into position (as I would do with a 1911).
It hasn't happened a lot ... If I shot a toe off for every time it has happened I could probably still wear tennis shoes .
I try to always count .. plan my stages well etc etc ... but somehow a shoot to slide lock will sneak in there sometimes ... I think it goes with the game.
I appreciate your insights ... but yes .. that is exactly why I quit looking at them.
Thanks ...
Its a slide stop on the 1.0 as well. Not my definition but S&W's. Just read the manual. Your 1911 doesn't auto forward does it? non of mine do. Not trying to single you out if it seems that way, but relying on auto forwarding could be a bit of a bad habit in my opinion.
I can see where it has seemingly helped you in a few instances where you already made a mistake, but I have seen it go the other way many times as well. The 1.0 was our issue pistol for several years and many fellow officers would rely on auto forwarding their M&P, and more times than I can count they got a click when the slide failed to pick up a cartridge and load it, or the slide didn't go forward when they expected it too. Though you may have some success with it, do you really want to rely on a technique that may not be reliable?
If you think it goes with the game.....it does. I personally do not look at it as part of the game, I refuse that. It is very rare for me to go to slide lock, and it should be for you as well, or at least that should be your goal.
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1 hour ago, dthomas1003 said:
For every 3gun match I have shot, including Superstition Mountain Mystery 3gun this year, 6x was plenty. 8x advantage would have been negligible.
I would even argue that 8X often is a disadvantage in 3-gun. Its often heavier and gives up a lot of field of view. If you are disciplined enough o not be tempted to crank up the power it can be ok, if you don't mind the weight.
I personally much prefer a 1-6 of better quality and lighter weight, Illuminated and with a very simple reticle.
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On 6/22/2018 at 3:41 PM, pete627 said:
Well .. when I really really wanted to make sure the slide stayed open it was very easy to put my thumb under the slide release and push up ...
IMHO it is kind of natural to do that with any gun.
With my 1911 I can easily push down on the slide release with my strong hand after a magazine is seated and the slide promptly close ... The 2.0 I tried wouldn't budge ... it took two hands to get the gun to close.
Its not a "slide release", Its a "slide stop". The M&P, like many other semi-auto's is designed for the stop to catch the slide and the shooter grasp the slide at the serrations, pull back a tad and release it to chamber a round. The best plan is to not run dry and insert a fresh mag without running to slide lock. If you run to slide lock, you already wasted too much time and releasing the slide as designed won't cost you any more than you've already given up. And if you've passed on the 2.0 because of the slide stop.......you've passed on S&W's best M&P yet..
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Armalite adjustable two stage match trigger. Do you have a question about it?
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Is there a shortage of pretty girls with red lipstick in Grand Forks?
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Ive been playing around with several different optics on my PCC.
SIG Romeo 5X
Trijicon MRO
Leupold Delta point Pro (triangle)
with cross slot mount and riser
In operation, shooting a course of fire, they all work really good. It would be hard to pick one over the other on performance.
With respect to ergonomics I much prefer the Sig Romeo 5X. The AAA battery located between the sight and mount is sleek, and you never need to turn it off. You just put the cover on (which is very sleek) and it goes to sleep. The adjustment and brightness settings are as straight forward as it gets. For $189.00 it was a bargain.
The MRO is typical bomb proof Trijicon, but I always seem to forget to turn it off. The battery/compartment is the typical button battery over the brightness knob and can sometimes be a challenge to unscrew. And I always thought Trijicons mount designers were a lazy bunch. The MRO mount is no exception. It functions, but I'm totally underwhelmed by it astetically. The finish doesn't even match the sight. And its pricey.
The Delta point pro is a pretty good optic, but it just looks like a cobled together afterthought with the mount, the riser and sight all bolted together separately. No matter how good it is, I have a hard time liking the fact it looks wrong on a rifle/carbine. And the battery compartment and method of brightness adjustment is my least favorite of the three. When you add the cost of mount and riser its almost as pricey as the MRO.
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Their website says for Gen 1 magazines. Anybody know if they work with Current 33rd Gen 4 mags? Im not a Glock guy so I don't know whats different about them, other than 2 rounds. LOL
Just called them. It seems the spring is the issue.
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Have you tried different ammo yet? That would be my first move. Put the pistol in the factory configuration and try some full power factory ammo. Shoot about 200 rounds that way then see where your at. And try 124gr. as sometimes I have found 147gr longer than some pistols like.
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On 5/8/2018 at 7:11 PM, TonytheTiger said:
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oops
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On 5/8/2018 at 7:11 PM, TonytheTiger said:
I don't care that they're cheap. I do care that the barrel nut is garbage. And the gas tube channel is so minimally machined that almost all gas blocks will touch. And that it needs the sharp edges de burred. And that the bolts that clamp it onto the barrel nut are just threaded into aluminum so you can't really put any torque on them.
Exactly right. I used one on my 9mm PCC. It was adequate for that as its a toy for me. But after de burring, painting and screwing it on to the barrel nut I am of the opinion that you get what you pay for. I have and have had hand guards from PRI, JP, Knights Armament, Midwest, Seekins etc and they are worth the money for a quality precision product. I did have a friend though who loved his Yugo....go figure.
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I had Bradford Tactical make me one for my 2.0 compact. Couldn't be happier. I had the quick release clips added from the standard belt loops. I really like them, but if you go that route a true stiff gun belt is mandatory. I use the new Blade teck gun belt and its great. A 2.0 will not be a good fit in a tightly moulded 1.0 holster. A suede lined holster such as the Safariland is a little more forgiving to the different slide shape and would be a decent fit as stated above.
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I dont prefer one over the other. Its a non issue in operation. There are other factors more important to me. When you are just taking a casual sighting with one or the other, you are either looking thru a larger window or around a smaller window. But not really focusing on a target so you tend to notice things that may be or may not be important. In actual shooting, I focus exclusively on the target and the aiming point just lays on the target. I don't really even see the sight body on any of the many Reflex or tube style dot sights Ive actually owned and shot. Its just a very insignificant blurred haze. A tube style can be a little less forgiving of head position from awkward shooting positions, so I give a slight edge to reflexes sights for this if your technique is not perfected and this is an issue.
Help make my M&P 2.0 5in go fast!
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
My mods are very similar to STEALTHY and I also use mine for 3-gun or Limited minor.
-APEX Flat faced FSS trigger
-Dawson charger sights with fiber optic front
-TTI mag extensions
-Carver magwell (no mods needed with it and will also accept factory base pads with bumpers)
-LMF extended mag release. Sadly no longer made. There are other options though, I think.
-Factory recoil spring and guide rod, My 2.0 shoots so softly with my ammo, I hesitate to screw up a good thing.