Albert

Are you saying the holes for the LEGS of the ejector are offset in the frame (and causing the ejector to set at an angle) or, as discussed above, that you are unfamiliar with the offset (correctly) hole that is used to pin the leg? If the pin hole (that is not present in all their frames) lined up directly with the front leg, it would simply butt into it and offer no retention...it's supposed to be offset to the front and the front leg is then very slightly relieved to allow a through pin to lock it in. Since the glued in ejectors have been a source of considerable annoyance, I'd e-mail or call Deb at SA and see if they would pin it correctly...I'm sure they'll reglue it for you under warranty but I believe I've heard that they'll also pin it...it'll probably cost you oneway shipping but that would beat waiting for the local smith to break a drill bit off at the wrong point in the frame. Here's her data Deb Custom Shop Coordinator Springfield Custom 420 West Main St. Geneseo, IL 61254 800-617-6751 customshop@springfield-armory.com /Bryan Yes to both. The offset of the two legs was commented by the smith, but it must be very slight as I did not notice the angle much. I did not realize that the pin only block the movement of the leg through the offset, I just figured that it was pinned through the leg. Update, I rechecked the set up this morning and tried the black marker trick on the ejector. It is not hitting the top (ejector with bottom of slide) completely. Only a small amount on the top right edge of the "finger" of the ejector and the far right side of the ejector and a small amount on the top edge of that left side before it gets to the portion of the ejector that holds the "finger". I've called & left a message with Deb at SA & waiting for a return call. I'm holding off on getting it pinned locally. Unfortunately my decision process has been tainted by my buddy encouraging me to file only the parts of the ejector that are contacting the slide (at a very patient and slow, concise rate). Not sure if I'm comfortable with that idea. My buddy did mention, and it makes sense, that filing that small amount should be no big deal as the worst that could happen is that I need a new ejector to be installed.

Friction between the pin and the frame hole keeps it in. The pin fits in what's essentially a half-moon shaped groove in the front leg of the ejector, and prevents it from walking upwards. Sounds like he's one of these guys who wears the "gunsmith" badge - but is really just a glorified parts assembler. Parts availability is such that, these days, you can buy a set of parts that goes together to make a nice gun with relatively minor fitting. You still have to know some things, and have some skill, of course - and this isn't to say that this smith doesn't know those things. However, he may not have the breadth of knowledge of the 1911 platform that a true gunsmith who knows the pistol is going to have. I can understand your discomfort with having him drill your frame - and I'd submit that that should perhaps be a signal to get the gun over to someone else - at least, you'll have more peace of mind with someone you feel knows what they're doing with the gun.... Thanks for the understanding. You know, I do like this smith. He did some great work upgrading my Mil-Spec that is running flawlessly. Maybe he was kidding around, but he does appear to have trouble with this particular pistol. It might be time to separate the two (this pistol & this smith). I always try to think the best of situations and hoped that even if this smith was having difficulties with this pistol that I'd see the solution created and everything would be find in the end. By the way, anyone have a similar ejector or have an ejector that has been "tuned" with the finger/edge angled toward the center of the frame (which would appear to miss the left edge of the magazine as it is inserted) but sitll have enough room to clear the bottom of the slide? I'd like to think this smith can solve this problem I've helped creat.

No hole in the frame. I have a Springfield Armory Mil-spec with a hole in the frame, the 9mm does not. So the hole for the pin does not go through the center of the ejector's longer front leg/post but is offset in front of it? Whatever will keep it in there. There is another issue here where this gunsmith, who was recommended to be by a friend, seems to have trouble with this gun because it is not one of the high end makes/models. I can understand this but it doesn't give me confidence that he wants to now drill into the frame. Which has been weighing on my mind that after that hole is made I may be creating a bigger problem than I started with. I had hoped that the installation & use of loctite would do the trick. I guess not.

Ok, here's one I'm curious if anyone else has experience. Pistol is a Springfield Armory 1911 9mm target that I picked up last July. When I first received & fired a couple hundred rounds I immediately had extractor/ejection problems. No worries as a friend helped to "tune" the extractor and problem solved. At this point I did notice a bend in the ejector (with the edge angled towards the enter of the frame), but no problems after the extractor tune, pistol was running fine. Fast forward and after a few simple upgrades (sights, trigger job, magwell) by local gunsmith (where I asked gunsmith to check on angle of ejector and fix if necessary [my 1st mistake]) get pistol back and get back to shooting. Next thing that happens during a weeknight steel plate match, pistol hangs up and ejector edge is bent upward dragging on slide. Take initiative (my 2nd mistake) and tap ejector back down from it's upward position. Notice crack where underside edge of ejector meets up with frame, curse, then send pistol back to gunsmith. Gunsmith orders new EGW ejector and noting no pin proceeds to set with strongest adhesive he has available. Get pistol back & return to midweek plates and lo & behold, ejector slips out and hits top of slide. RO mentions he removes some material from underside of his ejectors to alleviate problem of left side magazine lip hitting ejector hanging edge when slamming mag during mag change w/slide at slidelock. Take pistol back to gunsmith. Gunsmith says I'll get stronger adhesive (Loctite 680) & advises that I should not insert magazine into pistol when slide is locked open & only to slam mag in when slide is closed. I'm to new of a shooter to follow those directions so with pistol back & back to midweek plate match, you guessed it, ejector raises out of holes in frame & rubs against slide. Gunsmith says we'll have to pin it & I'll need to wait until he gets the right carbide bit. He also mentions that the holes in the frame for the ejecter where offset & suggests that Springfield Armory's quality control is not up to par with the STI & SVI guns he usually works with. I agree with him and am concerned that maybe we are getting into unchartered waters here with his attempt to drill into the frame to install a pin to pin the ejector. Should we just have Springfield's custom shop deal with this? Anyone have any other solutions? -Albert

started with a Glock 19 shot my Glock 34 for the first time recently. The 19 will now be my back up.

Congrats, our family added "Lily", an English Bulldog about 5 months ago and has the greatest temperment and was easily crate/housebroken trained. Enjoy. -Albert

On a rumor, I tried the Wilson Combat 10rd 38super mags and with the exception of rounds alternately stacking they so far seem to work fine, so I ordered 3 more (to work in my Springfield 9mm 1911). I've had minimal problems so far. This worked out either way as I also have a 38super 1911. The CMC 10rd mag that I picked up to try in the 9mm did not work/feed. By the way, when I placed the order with Wilson Combat the CS rep mentioned they are working on a 10rd 9mm 1911 mag for the end of the year. I do like the plastic follower.