SoCalShooter69
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Posts posted by SoCalShooter69
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20 minutes ago, Intercooler2 said:
The Super Sights move and break. Maybe one day someone will make a stellar replacement!
Locktite.
I run +p+ and never had an issue once I locktite the rear sight.
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Your 1099 is in the mail, John. Lol.
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Thank you for your past or present service to this great country.
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Check your firing pin for drag marks. Or send back to Joe... He has a bore scope.
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5 minutes ago, johnbu said:
Really?
Who knew??
Lol
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1 hour ago, JohnStewart said:
OK, great! I took 5 HD pics, here is a link to a Google Drive with those pictures:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ptuEAqWseqpKwfTwWhEs7Ad0csuS-6H4
It's still a little out of focus, so don't take this for gospel - that forward most slide lug looks slightly funky.
Possibly also have a weird looking spot on the rear most lug of the barrel.
If the barrel wasn't fit right from the factory, in the 45 minutes they get to assemble the whole gun, it may sit just enough out of lock up. Could also be why your pencil gets launched, since it sits directly in the barrel over the breach face.
@kneelingatlas may be able to chime in. He has a lot more experience with fitting barrels, and can prob give you a better assessment. I could very easily be wrong.
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15 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Regarding which gun? A quick search would have shown you this post from last week:
This forum has a search feature???
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Very clear images of what I've circled.
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You already answered your own question - local identical guns have no issue. With a full tune and ream, you should not be experiencing any of these issues.
I suggest you put the gun back to 100% factory comfiguration, sans the reamed barrel and try running it. You have a gun problem, not a Patriot Defense parts/tune problem.
I'm going to be honest with you, in that you're experiencing an outlier condition. Which makes me think you have a Tanfo QC issue or you're messing with the gun after its being sent back to you. The only inquiries we get these days, are how to increase DA, and how to fit a 2nd gen trigger bar.
Can you post a picture of your lugs and the lock section of the slide.
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So Win factory fired on first DA, and your buddy's garbage reloads didn't? Look how high his primers are. The strikes aren't light - the firing pin is pushing the primer deeper. Look at the strikes on the Win factory - those are solid.
To recap, so I'm clear - Win factory OK, reloads no?
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2 hours ago, JohnStewart said:
Basically from day 1, I was unable to get the gun to fire any factory ammo without light strikes.
I'll say this as a side note - there's no way that gun left headquarters not being able to fire factory 100%
Did you swap or change anything when you got it?
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10 minutes ago, JohnStewart said:
Yeah, I tend to agree, and my friend that has been helping debug this with me is saying the same. We just don't know what else could be causing this, or how to debug it further?
To quantify, I just measured the climb with a brand new pencil - it goes over 22" straight up on a DA pull... and that's with the factory orig firing pin installed.
22" os more than sufficient power.
How do the lugs look? My guess would be a lock up issue while you have a round in the chamber, or some sort of barrel issue, as in from the factory, not PD.
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Just to be clear - your pencil gets launched multiple feet in the air, yet you are still getting light strikes? A 15.5# should light factory ammo off with a full tune. You have another issue, my friend...
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What's the issue?
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I never, ever... ever recommend S2X... but if you absolutely, positivey can't find a base model... get the S2X.
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16 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:
Fiddling with some test loads. Most of us are too cheap (or lazy) to really get nuts about new brass or carefully reconditioned brass and end up using range brass. If I was shooting hundreds instead of 1000's it might be different.
So far with range brass I'm doing better with loads in the 1.120 - 1.135 range than loads with minimal headspace (I can go 1.165 or possibly longer). Am wondering if a bit more set down distance takes away some of the accuracy sensitivity to varied brass manufacturers & condition? Besides better groups in general it appears that I am less likely to have the occasional flier, based upon less than scientific observation.
For what it is worth, 1.12 oal, 147 sns rn, 3.0 titegroup, junk brass, stays nicely inside the head box with both of my guns at 30 yards (butt rested on bench and assuming I am doing my part). 1.135 @ 3.2 titegroup might be about the same, need to do a good bit more fiddling. Edit, measured the last couple groups I shot, 2.5" at 30 and 1.5" at 20.
I tried 165s... garbage. Longest o tested was at 1.165.
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Titegroup is cheap because it's a double base powder. Hence the reason it's dirty as sh*t. The double base refers to the additive of Nitro. That's another reason why it runs hot.
Yes, TG serves its purpose for uspsa, but it's really a garbage powder.
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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
What makes you desire a slower powder?
My guess would be more velocity with a heavier bullet. Well, at least that's why I would go slower powder.
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1 hour ago, darthdively said:
Either way, mbx should make that information more clear about the mags. SoCalShooter, you've provided the best support when it comes to these mags and what should be done to the mags. Thank you. Adrian could not do so or even consider i may have 2 lemons. I even offered to send the mags for him to scope it out. Like i said, my gripe is with mbx. I could have done the dowell rod squeeze(which i'll probably do) and be done with it.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Here's my welded mags vs MBX. The runs are critical, or at least some form of indentations to keep everything on the right plane and enough support that there are no nose dives with decent springs and followers.
Here's my suggestion for anyone that can't get factory 170s - buy two 38s mags have them cut and welded. That's what my above mags are. Bevin will do it, or if you have a friend that can weld decent, you'll be good to go.
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Couple things -
I don't know anyone that hasn't had to tune an open mag, that wasn't already tuned from the builder.
The stock tanfo big sticks work well because they are just extensions of the stock mag, on a platform based or the production gun, ie. Stock 2 for the GT. So the 2011 argument is irrelevant.
The MBX tanfo mags were made for CASPIAN frames. It just so happened they worked in tanfos. I did a lot of testing with the MBX in both 140 and 170. No issues once they were tuned. The simple task of either tuningnyour feed lips or usimg wooden dowels to create more support is all you need.
Like I said, I don't know any open shooters that HAVEN'T had to tune a mag at some point.
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2 hours ago, darthdively said:
Lol he's prob referring to me. He and i had been going back and forth. He didint like that i posted a video of his mags. Wanna buy a couple mags off me? Adrian wont exchange. He's not happy with me. Lol
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Ha! He didn't name, names, so you're good. Did you try using two wooden dowels and throwing the mags in a vice? Thats honestly the only downfall of the MBX design.
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Just got your message. I'll email you the chrono data w 9 vs 9.5 vs 320 out of a tanfo and cz...
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1 hour ago, Joe4d said:
Assuming short bullet to land movement,, probably a good load.
Sometimes I think OAL has a bigger effect than people think. Hence all the different bullet profiles. Alot of times in 9mm framed guns mag length is limiting factor probably why JHP's are known for accuracy,, got more to do with the short distance to lands than the hollow point. A flat nose, can be loaded to same length as a pointed nose but have a much shorter jumpJHP accuracy has to do with flight and maintaining stability. Also, OAL isn't "that" big off a factor in accuracy w regular handguns and associated uspsa distances.
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4 hours ago, Joe4d said:
Well some general things to look at. Lets assume the gun is mechanically capable of the accuracy you want.
What is the chamber like ? Short or long ? closer you are to the lands generally the more accurate on your reloads.
Size an empty case take a bullet and color it with a sharpy, seat the bullet really long now chamber it fully in the barrel pull the brass out and you will probably have to tap the bullet out with a rod,, the sharpy marks will be rubbed off to tell you how deep the bullet set. That gives you an idea of your max OAL with that bullet.. Obviously back it off about 20 thousandths .
Repeat with different bullets. As it will change based on shape.
Also, look at powder that takes up more room and is closer to a max charge,,, you will usually get more accuracy when you get single digit SD in your velocity. Usually more pressure is better. Although I could never get good accuracy out of clays and 9mm. I liked tight group and WST.
Next either slug your barrel to get actual dimensions or experiment with .001 over size bullets. Precision Delta has .356 jacketed, and most cast companies will sell you .356, to .358.
.get 100 of each.
What kinda press ? Dillion tool head moves a bit, you could shimp it to take out a bit of slop, this would make your crimps and seating a bit more uniform.
Just a matter of how pedantic you want to get.
Lets see, all same brand brass fired same amount of times.
All brass trimmed
Id probably stick with midweight.. 124 gr bullets.Excellent post.
High velocity, 124 rn, .356 coated Acme has given me the best along w PD JHP. Single digit spread and deviation.
Can the CZ Shadow 2 rear sight be fitted?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Exactly.