SoCalShooter69
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Posts posted by SoCalShooter69
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25 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
@SoCalShooter69 I'm assuming all the ports in the V12 make it a seriously sketchy prospect to get enough gas and velocity out of the gun to make PF and give the comp/barrel holes enough to work with?
Yup.
He can make PF... but he'll be flowing primers, bulging cases, and riding the odds of a Vegas bathroom slot machine in regards to pressure spike.
He thinks because his buddy is an experienced open shooter, it's okay, (I mean that with all due respect, not trying to be a d**k). Unless his buddy has experience with a V12 or a Akai w/ a ton of popples, I'd recommend he stay in his lane and get in touch with someone that does have experience w a V12, etc.
The only way to safely run a gold team in 9mm, is to get a 6" barrel from eaa, chop it, thread a comp. and run a handful of poples/comp.
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42 minutes ago, DesertTortoise said:
Couple days ago I watched a dude throw out his back on a stage and then hobble around picking up his 38SC
Go 9 Major and never pick up brass again
Are you speaking from experience with a V12 GT in 9?
I am.
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51 minutes ago, darthdively said:
I dont have any load data yet. I have a very experienced open shooter that is going to assist me in load development.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Ah. Well, soon you will realize you should have gone 38sc w the GT.
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2 minutes ago, darthdively said:
If any of you have any other suggestions, still open to see them in case this place doesnt work out.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Out of curiosity, since you're set on 9 - what's your load data?
1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:Don't go 38SC, go 9mm. Trust me ...
What was your load data, PF, and pressure curve?
If, in fact, you were running the V12 in 9, this could get interesting real quick.
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Don't go 9mm, go 38SC.
Trust me...
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Also, a big contributor to DA grit, is the underside of the sear.
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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Update: Ended up taking another .003" off of it without scrapping anything, and called it good at that point. Hammer comes back another .030" or so.
With a PD 15.5, the gun lit off anything at a 5.8lb DA pull weight this weekend. I mean CCI Magnums and Tula primers loaded on a 650 - it doesn't care.
No more EGD Medium spring. No more stacking DA pull.
Nice.
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PD hammer spring (s), PD firing pin spring, bolo, polish it... twice. Shoot. Polish again. Make GM.
Edit: verify you have titan vs. delta hammer. If delta, buy titan. Shoot. Polish again. Make GM.
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I fit the safety as well - there is more meat there, if you go too far with your dremel.
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53 minutes ago, Fasthenk65 said:
Thanks, most important
Also, there's no set in stone fact regarding fitment. As in, I've had bolos drop right in small frames, and needed to extensively fit large frames. So a bolo will work in either frame size, just of it needs fitting is independent of the actual frame tolerances.
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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:
We are?
Thats called a CZ and they're available everywhere.
I don't know about anyone else, but I be shooting a CZ instead of a Tanfo if the gun wasn't built for tiny little hands.
Which brand I chose didn't particularly matter to me - the two guns are nearly identical twins.
No, it's just you.
When tuned, gun for gun, Tanfo platform is better. The problem is, CZ nut-huggers are too p**** whipped to realize it.
Actually I will say, you are right about the hand size aspect of it. There a lot of man-girls using CZ because of that.
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1 hour ago, philippshen said:
Instead of writing your Congressman, write Tanfoglio and petition them to change importer/vender to Patriot... ?
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Word on the street is Patriot got their ITAR approved and are now shipping OCONUS...
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10 minutes ago, Ck867 said:
Would a new hammer/sear fix this problem though?
Considering that one is on its way out, yes.
In all seriousness, Johnbu has a post floating around here pertaining to knocking down that sharp edge of the rear slide. I think yours was just a little more aggressive than most.
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Word on the street is Patriot is about to drop a hammer/sear kit... might as well wait for that.
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1 hour ago, walrus76 said:
I'm aiming to recycle the stock 3 into an open project. Do I need a upgraded barrel, compensator, cmore? What can my factory barrel take in abuse?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
6" barrel fit, cut, and threaded; comp., sight mount, and a sight.
Good luck in your open goals of 2017-2018. Hint - youre better off buying a 38 sup Gold Team.
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4 minutes ago, johnbu said:
Fire 500 rounds.
Take it apart and polish it fully. Concentrate on all areas showing rubs.
I literally was just about to type to OP "Just go shoot the gun."
You likely need a good (or better polish job). Follow what Johnbu recommended. I will say, don't change out the plunger spring. Also, the nature of the bolo is an almost inaudible reset.
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1 hour ago, PatriotDefense said:
Sounds like you have an unlucky Lim-Pro that's going to require a bit of material to be removed. Sand paper more than likely will make you want to throw the thing away before you actually get it fitted. Remember its a hardened piece of metal so going to the dremel will shave hours of time. Just go slow and keep the cut straight.... your on the right track
Just to echo what Joe is saying - I've had small frames where bolos dropped right in and large frames that needed an unfathomable amount of material to function. That's just the roll of the dice you take when dealing with the very incosistant QC from Tanfo. If you're being explicitly correct in your description, and not leaving anything out, or an error on your end - keep removing material.
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So DA works, SA does not?
What's SA pre travel like? Is it still not re-setting or breaking in SA with no pretravel?
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30 minutes ago, Steve RA said:
A lot would depend on how far the anvil in the primer is from the open end of the primer, or from the other end, how far it is from the closed end of the primer.
Basically, if you seat the primer so the open end is touching the bottom of the primer cup in the case itself you should then have no problem with ignition.
exactly. I seat until I have an ever-so slight deformation or dimple on the primer. Never had a single issue with light strikes.
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2 hours ago, Sarge said:
CCI's are taller. I noticed 100 CCI fill a primer tube more than other brands.
Damn, that's a good point... hmmmmn.
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99.998% of light strikes cam be attributed to poorly seated primers. Although it is easy to blame parts, the fact of the matter is - you need to run your primers deep.
Another problem is, unless you're running a 1050, you are better of with a (*GASP*) Lee Loadmaster, as those are the only two machines that can control depth.
Excellent post, John. Very well explained. This should be a sticky.
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2 hours ago, MikieM said:
Oh, I don't know. Mine is coming along nicely. I currently have a safety dangling from it.
I lol'd.
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Need help finding an elite gold team 9mm
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
I prefer Norma, but you know, I like to live life on the edge! Lol