pdxrealtor

I see it so clearly now. Ya, that's a result of simply going to thin while taking down material. Hmmmm.... So your hammer is 18 grams. What rebound spring are you using with those pull weights? I am aiming for 6.5 lbs when done.

Are those pulls with federal primers or anything off the shelf?

Do you have pics of the chipped hammer? Was it a nick type chip, or a chunk or what? That seems like hard metal.... Mine the way it is will not flex when I squeeze it. May it just snaps, with no flex? Makes me want to put it in a vice with a weight gauge on it to see how strong it is. Lol.

.. ^^^^^that last hammer was my favorite out of all I've dug up. Perhaps I'll make a spurless one like that and see which one I like best. Any idea how much that weighs?

4mike... Thank you. You had a couple more in the same thread I found the above hammer in. Any issues with them?

I'm playing around with lightening hammers. Has anyone ever seen a hammer that has been carved out too thin snap, crack, or otherwise fail? Here are some pictures. The first one is mine. I've got several more I want to do for me and some friends and I'd like to know if, aside from looking thin, these things are actually failing.

I like the spur. Is anyone aware of hammers that have broke? I know someone mentioned they thought they remember someone breaking one at some point, but it wasn't a solid memory. Perhaps I should start another thread and ask.

Here's another pretty thin one, but I see they did leave some material where the area of concern is. But, it sure is thin on the bottom! Time will tell. Appreciate the heads up on the potential week point. It's good to know as I won't be doing anymore like this until I get a few thousand down the pipe. I think the best approach may be as is done in the picture below, and as Toolguy suggested. Leave a bit of material and drill another hole at the bast of the spur on the side.

There was a thread from back around 2011 and it was about trigger chopping. There were a couple there that were carved up more than mine in terms of thin areas. I wonder what ever happened to them. I don't know metals at all, but it seems odd that a part so hard no drill except a solid carbide bit would touch it could crack or break. Especially when I can't flex the thing between my fingers. Has there been reports of guys who cut up the hammer, then come back and say oops.. it broke? Here's that thread I mention. http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?showtopic=107539&page=1 From in that thread - Here's a hammer that looks thin at the bottom. Forum member @4mike did this one.

What would happen? Would this thing all of a sudden snap in two? Develop a Crack? What? It looks bad, but it's solid... So I'm trying to understand how this break might occur.?

I've been dry firing it since yesterday. Both SA and DA. It's currently set at 6lbs 0 oz ..... that may need to go up once I go to the range with my CCI primers.

Alaskan - thx. I'm pleased with it so to get compliments feels good! About to load setup the Dillon 650 for .357 and make some rounds and I'll use this revolver to play with the development. So... it will see at least a few hundred rounds very shortly. I'm going through revolver withdraws because I'm out and I refuse to buy more .357 since I have all the stuff to make it. Toolguy - I it's a great idea and a perfect spot for another hole.

The base of the spur as seen from the side, or the top? I saw a couple others that were like this, and a couple more that had left the back piece on (acts as support between top and bottom) . I decided to give this a shot. I gave it a good squeeze to check for flex, and I didn't notice any. Seems solid. Time will tell I suppose.

Just got done modifying the hammer. Started at 27 grams, ended at 19. And, I kept the DA spur.Made a jig so I can repeat this over and over on the drill press. It requires some freehand Dremel work too, but the jig and drill press make the rest pretty easy.

Thanks for this tip. I got my drill press (a shop smith actually - another story) setup and just ordered a solid carbide 2 straight flute, made in the USA, 3/16" bit. Going to get working on this hammer tomorrow hopefully.

Seems kind of silly to pay 78 bucks for the powder drop so it's an 'easy out, easy in' swap when changing calibers if you're going to re-adjust the dies anyways. At least to me.....

What do you guys do when you load 9mm and want subs and supers. Do you just ditch the supers and load all subs, adjust the tool head each time, or get a separate tool head? Facing the same thing with 300 blk out.

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I had a bunch of cigar trays from 'those days' and I keep my tool heads on one side and little parts for each caliber on the other. For tools I hang them from hooks attached to the shelf above my press/bench. The little allen wrenches will go in a wood block drilled to accept each size wrench and sit against the back wall of my bench where I have other tools I use regularly (I do gunsmithing too). For miscellaneous items, currently I have them in little, heavy, zip lock bags in a large slim Tupperware container. My bullets, primers, and powder all reside in floor to ceiling cabinet. Finished ammo is on the upper shelves and 10k packs of lead are on the floor shelf. All my clean brass is in tupperware/plastic drawers that are about knee high. I'm guessing about 15k rounds of 9mm in one drawer and it's only half full. I have a line of four of these drawers and I configured a shelf just above them. My dirty brass goes into the buckets in the cabinet. d So, I have three shelves - a lower - a mid (my bench) and an upper I have a lot of room left on the lower and upper bench so I haven't put much time into organizing them completely. Picture on the way.

That's the expectation, but I want to know how much. I got about 100 FPS from a 0.5 grain increase. I'm at 1038 min / 1094 max on a 13 shot string without cycling issues and that was on a 85* day. I'll likely get a mixed bag of subs and crakers..... mmm I'm hungry. lol

Hey CZ85 - I talked to Dillon and the spec is +/- 1000th. I'm getting mostly 1.088-1.092 or so with a lot of 'right on the money' 1.090s, and, some a bit farther off. Loaded up 900 the other night. From 5.1 which was my start load, to 5.7 which is .1 over the highest I've chorno'd. Loaded them in .1 grain increments. I want to see if the 5.1s will stay subsonic consistently in the handguns as well as my new CZ Scorpion. It would be nice to not have to have a setup for supers and subs in 9mm AND 300 BO.

^^ thanks. This post is obviously too long. I appreciate all the help. I got everything dialed except consistent COL. I'm going to give Dillon a call about that.

Thanks! Does anyone know why the stiffer recoil spring in the SP01?

What is the OEM recoil spring weight in the 75 B, and SP01 Tactical? I'm throwing brass with a FPS of ~ 1150 what seems like a mile. They feel very light when I rack the slide too. I can tell a big difference in racking the slide on my new SP01 vs. my well used 75Bs. I'm not one to tinker much with recoil springs but worn out parts are a different story.