jakfrost1
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Posts posted by jakfrost1
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I realize that I failed to mention in my original post that I stopped using the wet media, pins and all, over a year ago as I was unable to find a combination of 'wet' that relieved the 'sticking' problem, so all my 'used' brass is cleaned ONLY in dry tumblers, which leaves the 'natural' lube of carbon on the inside of the cases, reducing the 'stick/clunk' to an acceptable level.
However I would very much like to use a 'controlled quality' brass such as new Starline for my important matches, ( like the Canadian Nationals...), etc., but the problem still exists of course, the same as if I had cleaned the brass in SS pins. Hence my question regarding the use of 'lube' and its affects on the resulting bullet, given the 'clumping' issue.
So to satisfy my curiosity, I went to the range this morning and chronographed 3 strings of 10rds of the 'lubed' ammo:
LUBED: AVG 3 Velocity 1313/13116/1304
SD: 13.3/11.0/7.0.
PF: 164.1/164.5/163.0
And 3 strings of the 'non lubed ammo':
NON LUBED: AVG 3 Vel 1323/1322/1324,
SD: 9.6/10.6/10.8
PF: 165.3/165.2/165.5
So what I'm taking from this is that despite the 'clumping' ( see attached photo ), the SD's are pretty close, however, the consistently reduced velocity is probably due to the residual lube in the case mouth, giving less neck tension and subsequently lower velocity numbers....and...subsequently lower power factor. Not a show stopper but something to be aware of.
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I have a 650 that I have tried everything to have new brass, ( Starline ) run thru it without sticking at the powder funnel. Polished the heck out of the powder drop tube, which for me meant 're-polish' about every 50 rds, ( unacceptable ), tried 'lubing' the end of the tube itself every few rounds, ( unacceptable ), and then resorted to the usual lube formula, 18% liquid lanolin in an isopropyl alcohol solution, applied sparingly to the brass in an extra large zip lock baggie with a fine mist hand held spray applicator followed by the 'shake and bake' routine.
This works extremely well, ( the press runs so smooth I get less deviation in COAL...bonus ), if you are NOT filling the case almost to the top with 3N38 in order to make major power factor, because...its obvious that the fine cut powder is 'clumping' and sticking to the lube residue on the inside of the case mouth, ( the area that needs the lube the most in this case, no pun intended, haha ), even after I have left the lubed cases sit overnight.
My question is: should I be concerned that the affected powder has been compromised by the lube, and, could the neck tension be affected as well, either of which could cause the SD, ( standard deviation on the Chronograph ) numbers to soar to new levels, ultimately affecting my PF and possibly accuracy ??
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On 4/15/2018 at 5:38 PM, KKi_ipscfin said:
Just test with cheap Aliexpress printer, and Fire 7. need sideload Google services and Play store.
then you can load working printer driver app.
https://www.howtogeek.com/232726/how-to-install-the-google-play-store-on-your-amazon-fire-tablet/
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fidelier.posprinterdriver
Well I did my best...and did the above exactly as described, being very careful to load each file in the correct order, and unpack with the same cautions...THREE times on 3 different Kindle Fire 8's, all to no avail. Getting pretty discouraged with the Kindle product for this BT Printer effort. My last resort might be to try to 'hard wire' the Kindle to the POS printer, skipping the BT connection altogether.
However, I need to know if anyone has taken this route and could share with me the printer used. Not all POS thermal printers have a 'com' port into which you would plug the cable from the 'micro USB' port on the Kindle, and the 'spec's list on Amazon live a lot to be desired most times...
Anyone?
Jim
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I guess that is my question: What are the 'best practices' to shoot safely at an indoor range...? BritinUSA and MemphisMechanic seem to have touched on the pertinent points...not sure what level of mask is appropriate.
I drink water from a sealed water bottle at the range, eat protein bars, etc...but only wash my hands before leaving the range, I have never 'showered immediately after returning home'...? Probably the next morning was as early as I got...
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Hi all, had the opportunity to do some indoor practice this winter, and my physician called me last week to advise that my blood lead levels are 'HIGH' and I should cease and desist whatever activity might be causing it. Well, pretty obvious it was the indoor range since I stopped eating paint when I was 3-4 years old. The range has done a $60,000+ ventilation upgrade in the last year or so, and my total attendance would have been max 5 times plus 4 local matches at other clubs...so max 10 times since last November.
My base line values were 1.8 and are now at 5.6. Don't think it is life threatening but wondering what other shooters experience might be and how they dealt with it, aside from complete abstinence, which would be hard to do.
Just wear a hepa mask? All the time or just when going downrange for scoring and target changes?
Jim
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Hi all, been using my 'mini' Mr. Bullet Feeder for a year or so now with minimal issues, but lately it has begun to become a real PITA!! Every now and then, say every 10-15 rounds, it fails to drop a bullet into the case mouth, then it will drop one when the shell plate is lowered and knock most of the powder all over hell's half acre!!
I have cleaned the feeder die repeatedly, raised the height clip, lowered the height clip, adjusted the heck out of everything possible, replaced the 3 ball bearings...and have no idea why it is suddenly making my reloading an exercise in frustration.
I load 9mm using 125 HP Zero's and 121 RN Campro's, both bullets seem to have the same effects!
Anyone?
Jim
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Hi all, been shooting IPSC and USPSA for a couple of years now and had a great time last season shooting a few local steel matches using my STI DVC Open gun in 9 Major. Wondering if a ‘dedicated’ steel gun is necessary or could I continue to use my DVC, albeit with different loads other than my 170PF major loads, and if so what might those ‘steel’ loads look like? I’m using both WAC and 3N38 behind 121gr hollow base RN jacketed Campro’s and 125gr HP Zero’s...
Any thoughts? I’m not looking for an excuse to buy a new gun, IF the DVC can do a reasonable job with a proper load...
Jim
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I made up about 65 dummy 9mm using nickel brass and Campro 121 round nose, running them thru my Dillon 650 with the primer and powder feed eliminated...seating them to my standard depth of 1.160". They worked fine for awhile, like a week or two of every other day dry firing, ( I like to use full mags to simulate the realistic weight for mag changes...) but then the bullets began to fall out of the cases in the mags. They drop onto a gym style foam pad on the carpeted floor so can't say the shock was all that much...but after a few days of noticing this I checked the remaining bullets and found I could PULL 50% the bullets out of the cases by hand. Soooo, I tightened down the crimping die, ( a dedicated die on my 650...) but to no avail, they still fell apart.
I was suddenly alarmed by the prospect of arriving at the Florida Open, ( 3 day drive each way...) only to find the match bullets I had so carefully culled into 500 of the best...falling apart in my mags on the first stage!! I went thru each of the 100 round boxes checking about 25 in each at random, all as tight as can be. Now the only difference is these have primers and powder which should make no difference, but are all brass cases, not nickel, and use the Zero 125gr HP bullets, seated to the same length. What the heck??
Anyone have a theory as to why the nickel 121 Campro's pull apart and the brass 125 Zero's don't ??? Something about nickel cases I don't know?
Cheers,
Jim
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WoW...guess everyone is busy over the holidays...oh well, still time before the season opens up here in the frozen north country
But ideally I would be able to bring 5 mini’s home from the Florida Open in February, save on duties and taxes...
Happy New Year Everyone!
Jim
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We started with a set of 4 Fire tablets over a year ago, and despite the usual hiccups, ( scorekeepers neglecting to insure they were scoring the CORRECT shooter, arggggg, my nightmare ), we are certainly never going back to paper, for scoring at least. BUT...I realize that if we are ever going to graduate from an IPSC L2 match it will involve having some kind of paper backup for scoring and it seems the majority of L3's I have been to lately are using some form of mini-printer, generally clipped to the scorekeepers belt from which he/she produces an immediate backup from the tablet that the competitor has just hit the 'APPROVE' key on.
There are a number of choices out there, mostly on Amazon, but before I commit to buying 4-5 of them, is there any consensus, general or otherwise, on a couple models that prove to be reliable and suitable for the task?
Jim
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So...just the recoil spring change? 6-7lb...leave the main spring alone?
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I have been shooting my 2 DVC 9mm Major Open pistols ( primary/backup ) for a couple of years now, and very happy with their performance as they seem to be the right tool for my IPSC/USPSA matches, at a price point my back account can bear. However the proliferation of ‘Steel Challenge’ matches, ( I know, I put on 3 at my home club last season myself...), has me thinking I should perhaps consider something more dedicated to the ‘Steel Match’ requirements, besides 9 Major.
I know STI makes a nice ‘Steel Master’ which would probably fill the bill, but the bill is what I am fretting over, having retired 6 months ago, the true cost of this ‘recreational sport’ is becoming more apparent with each passing ‘paycheck-less’ month, haha.
So...my question, anyone have a suggestion as to how I could shoot reasonable ‘Steel Match’ loads reliably thru one of my DVC’s? There is no PF requirement other than to ‘ring the steel’....
Just ‘re-spring’ until it functions? I know the comp wouldn’t work well, if at all, at the reduced loads with the 5.40” barrel vs the 4.15” steel master’s tube, but other than that?
Maybe just look for an inexpensive dedicated ‘Steel gun’?
Jim
DVC, NRA, USPSA, CSSA
CHC ISPC Club Rep
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Just got a reply to my call for help from the dealer I bought the gun from...he basically said " you want your new gun to be chrome or black?". Hmm...seems a tough route to a new gun but what choice do I have...I'm thinking black.
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Hi all, just finished cleaning my 'back up' gun, twin of the primary...STI DVC in 9 major...and found a pair of cracks in the comp opposite each other at the first top port, both sides, traveling down to the respective side port.
This gun is relatively new, 18 months or so, and as the back up gun hasn't seen a lot of rounds, like maybe 5,000. All 125 Zero's in front of an appropriate amount of 3N38. First time I have seen a cracked comp, but I'm fairly new to open, 3 yrs and 30,000 rounds, all thru the pair of STI DVC's. By the way the primary gun with almost 25,000 rounds is fine, as far as I can see.
My gunsmith said shoot it till it breaks off, no worries. Or at least until it looks like it is about to break off....they all crack sooner or later.
I see Brazos and Dawson both carry one piece barrel/comp parts for the 2011 series, Brazos has the 'Thundercomp' as well, with more side cuts, but my gun guy says in his experience the only thing the side ports accomplish is to give the top crack somewhere to propagate too...so don't bother with a fancy 'multi hole' comp.
I would like to have something in my 'spares' bin for the day the comp does fail, but not sure what route to go with a replacement for the 'one piece' barrel/comp that comes on the DVC...?
Any suggestions?
Cheers
Jim
PS the photo shows the crack on the right side...left side is exactly the same.
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
If your MBX mags are new, or the springs are new, that is part of your problem. New MBX springs are waaaay too tight and push the round up hard. MBX recommends you condition the new springs by leaving the mag fully loaded for at least a week. I've found two weeks is required to settle the springs and feed right.
Some people suggest cutting one coil off the bottom. A 13 coil spring is right for 170 mags, but a little long for a 155.
You are absolutly correct, zzt. I bought new spring/follower kits for all 6 mags and after installing them I was suddenly having feed problems. Put the old ones back in ( they were working fine, just figured after a year or so maybe some preventive maintaince) and all is good again. Guess I’ll have to ‘season’ the new ones this winter...
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13 minutes ago, Shmella said:
I’m going to say it’s a gun issue. Not a mag issue. As pointed out by waco in the other thread probably something to do with the barrel lock up. He shoots a lot and tinkers a lot with open guns. I trust his word on a lot of issues.
I’m wandering down that road also Shmella, not sure exactly how its a gun issue yet, but so far that seems like the most likely suspect in this mystery.
More testing required, but my squad time is 0900 tomorrow, 2hrs away...so guess I’ll have to take the ‘1st shot C’, and nail all the rest, haha.
Testing will resume ASAP after the match. This isn’t likely to be solved easily...
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2 hours ago, Sarge said:
OP, if you find the gun groups fine after firing the hand racked round in to the berm then at least you can rule out something YOU are doing to cause the stray. From there you can explore other ideas.
Thanks Kevin, I’m definitely going to clear that up as a possibility, but after 8 yrs of service as part of a 2 man team in a grass suit, and 20yrs of ISU competition, shooting off a table bag from 15yds with a red dot while sitting on a comfortable chair....well its hard to imagine I’m pulling the 1st shot 6-8” down and right. In both guns...but hey, anything is possible and I’d be happy to have a answer no matter how depressing, haha.
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1 hour ago, zzt said:
I think your problem is too many bullets in the mag. The top round is under a lot of pressure and is held too tightly against the feed lips. The slide does not come forward fast enough to strip the round and chamber properly. The nose of the bullet strikes the feed ramp too low because of how tightly it was held in the mag. You get some bullet setback from that impact. That increases pressure, changes velocity and affects POI. You can test this theory by loading one less round in the mag and see what happens. I have eight semi auto pistols and every one of them puts the second round where the first one went, even from a cold gun.
Well I might give that thought some consideration except for the fact that in this case, if anything, the opposite would be true. Because...I am using MBX 155mm mags which without being restricted to 10 + 1/2 rounds by a ‘follower stop’ would hold 27 rounds. So the 13 coil spring is not even half way compressed.
But what the heck, at this point I’m quite happy to try any suggestions!!
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‘Light bulb’ moment...rather than do a ‘berm check’ why not just shoot the ‘first round flyer’, then clear out the gun, top up the mag, re-rack and fire another...should go into the same spot as the ‘first round flyer’ did, no?
Would this not confirm or eliminate the first round ‘racked to slowly’ theory?
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8 hours ago, Sarge said:
That’s what I’m thinking. Rack it hard and fast, slingshot it, whatever. Try to get the barrel lockup closer to gun running. To test this just launch one into the berm and then shoot your group. At least that would tell if we are on the right track with a lock up issue.
OK...first, thanks for all the replies!
‘Itdmstr’ I agree, not sure how loading slowly vs hard rack can affect the accuracy, after all the gun is either ‘in battery’ or not...? How does the breach know if the bullet was inserted slowly or quickly.
‘Sarge’ I’m going to make the 1 hour round trip again this morning after chores to do the ‘fire one into the berm’ test, but again, unless the gun has an adversion to ‘white paper’ the result should be predictable...all remaining shots, after the ‘berm shot’ should be well grouped, as per the targets, no?
But you do raise an interesting question about the ‘first round chambering’ procedure. I have been doing the ‘load and make ready’ procedure ‘on autopilot’ for so long that upon closer examination I realize that I have been ‘assisting’ the gun into battery with the slide racker, since when I slowed all my actions down for a closer examination of the actual procedure, I realized the gun (either one...) wouldn’t go quite all the way into battery on the first round without a slight nudge from me. After the first round the slide goes fully forward for every following round. So there is a difference there I suppose...
Anyway that is a different question, that in reality shouldn’t have any bearing on the the accuracy of the round, ‘pushed into battery’ or not, the question is, is the 9lb slide return spring too light if simply releasing the slide doesn’t result in the gun going fully into battery. The gun runs fine after one loaded, just not accurate on the first round. Its a puzzle!
Just now, Hi-Power Jack said:The gun writer, Massad Ayoob, has long professed that the first shot from a semi-auto
will hit in a different spot than the rest of the mag.
I usually fire my first shot into the berm if I'm testing for accuracy
And Hi-Power Jack, did Massad have any explanation for his theory? Or is it ‘just one of those things’...
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Hmmm...I changed out the slide return springs in both guns very recently, putting in brand new Wolff 9lb springs. BUT, I noticed that both guns often need a little ‘encouragement’ to go into breech lock for the first round. All subsequent shots are without issue. I have been using some ‘older’ brass lately for practice sessions and blamed the brass...but maybe the spring isn’t up to snuff and my ‘helping’ with the slide racker is causing/confusing the issue?
I would think 9lb springs should put good clean ammo into breech lock no problem...?
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Big match coming up so as per usual I went to the range to confirm the zero on both guns...and well, for the life of me I can't figure out what the problem is. I guess I could buy 2 new RTS-2's to eliminate the scopes as the culprit but I can't afford the luxury of owning 5 of the little buggers. I can't imagine what the gun's themselves could be doing to cause this, but anything is possible.
The primary gun is a 3 yr old, 8-10K round, STI DVC with the usual mods, Aftec, grips, magwell, ambi shielded safeties, pinned beavertail, etc. The secondary is EXACTLY the same, mods and all, except it has less than 2K rounds thru it. They are both wearing a fairly new Mk 4 6 MOA C-MORE RTS-2 scope.
I went back to the range today to confirm yesterdays confusing effort to zero both guns. It seemed that the first shot from EITHER GUN, firing both my match ammo ( only difference is the OAL, mine is 1.170" and hers is 1.150" ) and a friends 9 major match ammo, producing almost exactly the same result.
Shooting seated, off a bagged table rest, the first round is about 7-8" low at the 5 o'clock position from the primary gun, and 4-5" low at 5 o'clock from the secondary gun. The rest of the string of 10rds are all pretty well grouped at the centre. I pulled down the first target and put up a clean one and tried again. Same result just not quite as dramatic. The secondary groups really well, but has the most dramatic excursion on the first shot. Shooting the second string on the new target has the same result, 1st shot low to the right, just not nearly as far out.
Something to do with a cold/cool barrel? It certainly wasn't 'cold' out at 27c. The only thing that I can think of is maybe the lens/dot alignment 'settles' or 'self-adjusts' after the first shot? Not sure how that technology works...? but both scopes at the same time? Weird.
Anyone seen this phenomenon before?
Going to be a challenge at the match if I have to 'Crockett' the first shot, and ONLY the first shot, on every stage, haha...
Jim
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Well I’ve had the completely opposite experience with my PF and heat...Chrono’d at 169+ home here in Canada in January, outdoors, -10c...got to the Florida Open in Frostproof Fla, +20c. Chrono’d at 165.1...YIKES. The guy running the Chrono stage suggested, ( with some sarcasm), that I ‘might wanna check dem loads when I got home’...I stayed in Major, but by the skin of my teeth!
My flying experience is that the opposite should be true, but can’t argue the facts. The only other explanation could be my Chrono is off I suppose. Anyway I’m loading to 170+ for the Nationals in August...8.4gr 3N38 125gr Zero HP, 1.1170 OAL, DVC 9 Major.
Jim
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Thanks Raylan, so I guess as far as the 'best android' for a master tablet usage...just pick one and go?
Anyone have good experience with something that would come with, ( or allow a bluetooth 'case/keyboard' accessory ) a keyboard. I can type pretty quickly, ( remember Mavis Beacon Teaches Typing? Came on a 'floppy disc' to me...), so it is a big advantage to not have to have 1/3 of my screen taken up by a keyboard.
Jim
But ideally I would be able to bring 5 mini’s home from the Florida Open in February, save on duties and taxes...
PractiScore squad edit...??
in Match Scoring
Posted
Hi all, been using PractiScore for a couple of years now, seems every time I run a match using PS I learn something new. Well I've tried everything to learn how to edit a squad, ( not the competitors, just the squad itself...), and now I'm asking for help.
I have a Steel Match beginning in 3 days for this upcoming weekend, ( Oct 12/13 ) and had set up the match with 3 squads on each day, ( 0900,1200,1500, 10 in each ), and since there has been nobody register for the Sunday 1500 squad I would like to delete, ( or edit it ) it. I have tried going to the 'edit squad' page and changed the squad 'schedule' but when I click on 'save' it redirects me back to the previous page with a red banner across the squad saying '5,6, squad'....and nothing else. No direction, no indication of what I need to do to correct whatever the perceived mistake is...
Anyone? It sometimes PractiScore looks for the hardest way to do something, and finds it. Or is it just me...
Jim