jakfrost1

Umm...that was the intent of the original query...to do some research. The Bitcoin comment was only to illustrate what my research has turned up, so far.

Been poking around to see how the supply and demand for small primers is fairing...I have 12,000 left in my stash but always looking ahead. Question: I have come across 2-3 outlets claiming to have unlimited supply of ( for example ), CCI small pistol AND rifle primers for around 65.00-70.00 per thousand, BUT are promoting the use of Bitcoin for a further 10% discount, free shipping, no tax, etc. I have no idea how to pay using Bitcoins but just the fact they are asking makes me hesitant to type in my credit card info... Anybody else get the same 'spidy' sense feeling from outlets similar to this? Sounds like bait to me... Jim

That’s great news! Prob explains why the head on the mounting screw requires a ‘Glock’ tool to remove/replace!

Hi all, well couple of things...my trusty Trijicon SRO died on me, and consequently I've had to resort to using the factory iron sights on my PDP full size, which after having recently had cataract surgery replacing both lenses, has turned out to be surprisingly fun! I've been thinking it might add to the fun if I could replace the front sight with a fibre optic, but there seems to be a scarcity of options available for the PDP. Trijicon makes a fine version but it seems, not for the PDP. PPQ, etc, but not the PDP. No idea if one of the other model versions would work on the PDP, anyone tried one? The factory sights are excellent except when shooting steel matches, those white dots on both the rear and front sights simply disappear on a white painted steel plate! Any other recommendations out there? I am fascinated with the correction the new lenses made in my ability to be able to see both the front sight and target with reasonable focus! Cheers, Jim W.

Thank you so much, this is just the kind of feedback I was hoping for…hands on experience! i have an iPad Air 2 but it doesn’t support the ‘pencil’, hence my interest in an upgrade. Jim

Hi all, time to upgrade my iPad and looking at the new M1 chipped iPad Pro...or...the new Gen 6 iPad Mini, with 2 main uses, ONE: use Sketchup or another stage design app with the 2nd Gen Apple Pencil to design IPSC stages, and TWO, work my other hobby, photography using Raw Power for post processing. I have never used a 'pencil' before so not sure of the actually usability as far as stage design goes, and, I love the handy 'portability' of the iPad Mini but maybe its not suitable for either of those jobs. Anyone been using the above devices for the stage design task? I know this isn't the ideal forum for the second task, photography editing....but hey, thats part of what I hope to be able to do with whichever of the iPads I choose, 'Pro or Mini'... Jim

I agree about the 'not a fan' part...me either really. So just had a 'light bulb' moment...since I resize/de-prime after roll sizing, then case check in order to weed out the unacceptable brass BEFORE reloading them, I have an unused spot on the tool which I can put my .45 resizing die in. This will clear the flash hole only...problem solved I believe!

I tried corncob tumbling after reloading but seemed like a pretty heavy load, (200rds, 147gr bullets) for my Horady tumbler, thought maybe after sizing and before loading might be something to think about, hence my question…

Loading with a Dillon 650…

I use range brass almost exclusively for my 9mm production and open shooting…water washing the major crud off first, drying, then corn cob tumbling till shiny. I then lube with Hornady One Shot before re-sizing/de-priming. My question is, I would like to tumble the brass again before reloading to remove residual lube but am wondering if I should be concerned about the odd piece of media that gets stuck in the open primer hole. Could this possibly affect the ignition and consequently the muzzle velocity/accuracy? Any thoughts comments? Cheers, Jim

Hi all, stubbed my toe on this one yesterday. I normally compete in Open class but choose to shoot PO during the winter months while confined to indoor ranges...So, I stepped up to the firing line and when told to 'Load and Make Ready', used a single round held in a belt keeper on the front of my belt to 'top up' my first mag after loading one in the chamber. The RO stopped me and asked where I got the round from and then informed me that having a belt keeper capable of holding a cartridge, in front of the 'hip bone' was illegal. My understanding of rule 5.2.10 is that this would only apply AFTER the start signal, NOT after the 'Load and Make Ready' command...it does say 'Start Signal' in the rule...not, the 'Load and Make Ready Command', and the start signal is usually defined in the WSB as the 'beep', ending on the last shot fired, etc. Perhaps the 'allied equipment' part catches the belt keeper for some, but I doubt that was the intent of the rule. Comments? Jim W.

Thanks for the reply...seems its a pretty common complaint. So all I have to do is pin the mags to max 10rds to be legal here north of new york and no more jammed hands! Thanks, appreciate the link to the 'Pinchy Pinch' base pads, lol. Jim W.

Enjoying the SF Pro, but wondering if anyone has an answer to my question...after removing the factory ‘magwell’ in order to be compliant with Production Optics, ( or even just Production for that matter ), I have been experiencing a problem with the base of the grip allowing my hand to get in the way when doing a mag change, jamming ( rather painfully...) part of my hand where it extends slightly past the base of the grip. I have pretty normal sized hands, but without the magwell installed the grip is a little shorter and its a problem on occasion. Has anyone seen something that could be fitted to replace the magwell that isn’t a magwell per se? It looks like something is missing when the magwell is removed anyway... Jim

Thanks for the info guys...I have written him to request a couple, not sure if he can/will mail to Canada but fingers crossed! Jim W.

Hi all, really enjoying my SRO's, ( DVC for matches and Q5 SF for practice ), but wondering if anyone has come up with a battery replacement tool. The slot in the cover is wide but not deep...I have tried gently with a coin that fits pretty snug but it is hard to get much torque on such a small surface as a coin, especially since it is half under the scope hood. Anyone found a clever 'McGiver' tool? Jim W.

WOW...lots of good info...thanks all. Here is where I'm at right now. I had been using a homemade formula for lubrication, pure Lanolin mixed with isopropyl alcohol...but it left a kind of sticky residue so I stopped a year or so ago. So...I drove a couple of hours to pick up 3 cans of the Hornady 'One Shot' and gave it a try. What a pleasant surprise. No residue and almost no effort to size the brass! So little in fact I dug out the original '8 Ball' actuating lever for the 650 and zip cut off the top 4"...rethreaded it and put a slight, ( 1.5") bend away from the press in the shaft, bolted it place and presto, 'Short Action 650'. So now I can resize with ease with a 30% shorter stroke, so less movement AND less effort. All good. However when ANY new Dillon presses are once again available without a '48 week' waiting period, I will get in line to try a newer press, probably a 1100... Jim

Thanks all...PT is the reason I am still able to compete, however 'Strong Hand Only' is still a challenge, lol. Since the 'bring a friend' option is not really an option for me, living in a small rural area, and grandkids are even farther away, I guess I'll just continue doing what needs to be done in small batches, like 200rds max at a time for the 're-sizing' anyway. I can fill/finish the brass easily for much longer, just need to break down the hard part into smaller bites...sucks to get old, haha. Jim

Hi all, first off I have pretty much got the 650 running as smoothly as is possible given the design flaws, ( minor...) that would seem to have been addressed in the latest crop of product from Dillon. My current issue isn't with the press itself but with my torn rotator cuff(s) that are making extended use difficult, if not downright painful. I have a couple of options: 1. Buy a motor system built for the 650 from a fellow reloader who is upgrading his system to a fully automated one with all the sensors. The system he is selling is strictly MANUAL, i.e. it requires diligent observation and a quick foot on the 'stop pedal' to prevent a minor/major problem from occurring. If I could mechanize the 're-sizing, de-priming' portion, using another, dedicated 650 with this motor system, I could then manually run the remaining functions thru the original 650, since the force required places much less strain on my shoulders, AND...interestingly, seems to provide a much smaller spread on the resulting OAL. OR 2. Sell my 650 and put the money ( and a bunch more! ), towards a full blown Mark 7 system. Option 1 is definitely the less expensive way to go, and I only need to reload between 12,00 and 14,000 rounds of 9mm a season. Really all I need is to eliminate the 're-size/de-cap' process. which brings me to option 3... 3. Buy commercially processed, once fired brass, for roughly $75.00/1000. This almost doubles the price of a round of minor 9mm over using range brass. Oh, and that price is the 'if you buy a minimum of 50,000 rounds' price. Given my current usage they would last me roughly 5 years...I'm 74 and who knows, maybe they would 'see me out', hahaha. Anyone have comments, suggestions? I haven't seen the 650 motor drive in action, the owner lives 3hrs away...it might be more trouble than its worth, dunno... Jim

The link is no longer available...any suggestions? My 73yr old eyes are falling out of ma head trying to see the kindle 7" tablets... Thanks, Jim

Just had time to sit down and check out the site, no issues to Canada, at least nothing $20.00 for shipping wouldn't cure, lol! At least they will be on their way, thanks again for the link!

Thanks for the link Hdiamond! I'll order a bunch of them, hope they ship to Canada!

Tried the easiest solution first, bumped up the PF to 135 and bingo no more extraction issue! AND, I as insurance I installed the spring from Keith White, and now have massaged my load down to 3.2g of N320 and PF of 130...runs like a raped ape! I also installed the Walther TAC Trigger and the Walther LowPro RMR Optics Adapter Plate under the Trijicon SRO from CHPWS...got to run a few hundred rds thru the gun this morning, super pleased the the trigger. I installed the 'Red' spring, the kit comes with 2, 4lbs and 3lbs. The red one checked in exactly at 44 ozs on the scale. The reset is sick...made me giggle, did a 10rd Bill Drill in 3.18sec! 2 charlies at 10ys, LOL. So...all is good now, just need to find someone who can help me find 1 grip screw for the Q5 Steel Frame. Arggg. Smallest screw I've seen in a grip, ever!

OK...so many options, I hate trying to solve function issues, for some it is an interesting challenge, for me its like vintage bikes...I don't want to be starring at 'vintage' at the side of the road, wishing I had better cell coverage. So, long story short, FTE's, pretty regular, but...my gun came to me with 2 recoil springs, here is a picture, for starters can someone tell me which is stock, and if they know what value might the 'other' one be? In case it isn't obvious, the left one is 'silver' and the right side is 'red'... Thanks guys, Jim

OK, figured it out myownself

Thanks...'Help Desk' is an oxymoron....that is why I'm here. Guess they are 'experiencing higher than normal call demand, wait times WILL be longer than your upcoming match will allow, sorry'. LOL.