clw42
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Posts posted by clw42
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I have the DAA version, which is fine. If RP has his out at the time I would have gone that direction.
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57 minutes ago, Zachjet said:
1000$ With the case feeder
. Good deal
Shell plates need to be purchased separately and they don't have any of those...
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15 hours ago, ntxboi said:
I don’t want to shoot production or carry optics. Before I was injured I shot limited then open. I am comfortable shooting in those categories, but I can’t afford a new open gun right now and my vision sucks, so I want to shoot something I am comfortable with.
I wasn't judging, I was proving my deductive abilities. I'm all for it, smart move in my opinion.
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6 hours ago, 4n2t0 said:
Good to know, thanks.
No worries. I was a little nervous buying them after reading all sorts of forum threads and opinions online saying they wouldn't seat properly. I finally came across a relatively recent one that mentioned Ginex changing their dimensions to match up better with CCI, so I measured to confirm.
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
Why do you want a race style holster? That takes you out of the Carry Optics and Production Divisions where that gun belongs.
Just a guess - Add a magwell, maybe a thumb rest if there's an option slap it in a race holster and you're shooting LO.
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On 3/5/2023 at 8:49 PM, 4n2t0 said:
The problem is usually in the diameter, at least in the SPP. I don't load rifle so I wouldn't know anything about rifle primers.
Looks like they've made some adjustments. CCI on top, Ginex on bottom:
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17 minutes ago, DavidSeavey said:
Greatest band ever!
Damn Straight!!
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2 hours ago, dillon said:
All Dillon machines are made in the US, from American sourced materials. Most of our castings are made in California, the rest in Arizona and Utah. Machining is done in the same states. The carbide for our dies is all domestically sourced as well.
Machine components and accessories, including conversion kits, dies, mounting plates, case feeders, and such are all made in America. Electrical and electronic components are often Internationally sourced, as quality electric motors are not generally manufactured in the US any longer.
Then I stand corrected. And as such, I would stick with Dillon 1000% as I said.
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SPP, SRP, SPM, SRM - whatever I can get my hands on, they all go bang in my open guns and I have seen zero deleterious consequences.
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1 hour ago, midatlantic said:
consider that its made in China. Dillon says its made here. (hopefully the components are too.) Lets support the American industrial base.
I believe they're assembled here now, but parts are made in China. That's what I was told by an engineer I know that knows people in the industry. Could be wrong about that and if so I would agree 1000%.
6 hours ago, SIGcurious said:
Why? Just curious.Aside from the made in US part, I think it looks like a solid press. What you get for the money, ten stations, seems solid, case feeder cover, lower cost for caliber conversions and supposedly the powder measure if awesome.
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The 1100 is fantastic. However, if I were buying now I'd probably wait for the X10. There are some youtube reviews, but if you're not in a rush I'm sure there will be more information in a month or so after their first volume shipment hits.
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I just received some and compared them to CCI. There was a few thou variance between both brands, but overall very close. These are SRP's that I use for open. Ginex is brass CCI is nickel.
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3 hours ago, HesedTech said:
Kind of is the best answer. By holding down the brass they hold down the plate.
Okay, thanks. I actually emailed Everglades and they put some in stock so I ordered one of those. For $20 shipped I figured it was worth a try. I'll have to do some work to get it to fit the 1100, but not a huge deal. If I don't like it, I'll order the Level 10.
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2 hours ago, ddc said:
Adjusting that primer operating lever can be a bit finicky but has to be done on occasion.
Or does it??
https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/priming/f-w-arms-primetime/
have one on the way. I'll be very happy to let everyone know how well (or poorly) it works. I'm obviously hoping for the former.
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2 hours ago, HesedTech said:
I found it really help with consistent primer depth. Even in the 1050/1100 there is some variety of seating depth because of the small movement in the shell plate and tool head. The Everglades hold down works if all the brass are the same; kind of like the swage hold down rod. The spring loaded LVI10 at the primer station and the FWA hold down at the swage station both really add to the consistency of the ammo. Beside which, after spending thousands on the press and the dies, what's a few more dollars?
Okay, that's fair. Does it help prevent the shell plate from flexing or moving enough to have more consistent OAL? Not sure how much of a role it even plays in that area. Seating primers, so far, hasn't been a problem for me.
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10 hours ago, Hatch90 said:
Hey y’all,
Brand new to reloading and trying to adjust something’s on the new press. Primer slide was working fine and got them to set correctly. The issue came after I was fiddling with the primer tube and didn’t realize some primers were already in it. I had to go and fish out some loose primers. After this, the slide is no longer moving back and forth for the primers to drop in or move forward to set any into case. Nothing popped or clicked when fishing out the primers to my knowledge.
What I can tell is the black arm in the back is not grabbing the golden piece of the slide. Not sure how to adjust that and can’t find a video on how to fix.
Sorry about the lack of lingo. Still trying to figure out what all these pieces do.
Any help would be appreciated!
Can you move the primer slide back and forth by hand? If it moves freely, then you can probably just pull the pin on the indexing assembly and reset the arm so it's on the inside of the brass roller of the primer slide. If the primer slide doesn't move freely by hand, then you'll have to take the primer magazine off because you've likely got a primer or debris gumming up the works.
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7 hours ago, HesedTech said:
Get this one, it works no matter what the thickness of the brass base is.
https://lvl10i.com/products/priming-system-support-die-for-super-1050
I've thought about it, but it's a little pricey for something I don't necessarily 'need'
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I don't think they're even making these anymore. I haven't been able to find one for months.
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On 2/18/2023 at 9:19 PM, ogiebb said:
I bought them $275 plus hazmat,tax and shipping. For 5k
Where did you score that deal?
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I'm going to agree with what a couple of others have said. If you called them, told them the story and said I need, part A and part B along with some different springs, they'd probably send them. If you're calling them with a parts list, I can totally understand them wanting the press back. I've had my 650 for a while now, it has well over 200K rounds loaded and only two actual parts have ever broke, the shell plate indexing ring (that stupid plastic nub snaps off, though I did have one snap in half as well) and one shoulder bushing on the failsafe rod. Outside of that, it's been springs, lots of springs. I actually had a spring break in my small primer feed cup thing, asked for the spring and they sent me the whole assembly.
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Could it be scale related?
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8 minutes ago, ysrracer said:
Thanks, what purpose does a concave base serv ?
I think I read somewhere that it reduces the gas that blows by the bullet in the bore. I think most people say it doesn't matter. It certainly doesn't hurt anything.
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19 hours ago, ysrracer said:
Do you have a link? Because what I'm seeing is $269.
You have to search by bullet weight, not caliber. Not sure why. If you just search 9mm you end up with 12 results.
https://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets/9mm-124gr-concave-fmj-bullets.html
I just bought 1K of their V2 Plated RN bullets to try for my open guns and I really like them. I think they're a very good compromise between Blues and JHP's.
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1 hour ago, Rich406 said:
They’re probably working their way through current stock.
Yeah, and I would guess the 3 MOA must be less popular so it's taking them some time to work through them. It doesn't matter to me in the least. When the buttons on this one fail, I'll send it back again. The thing that does irritate me is that Sig is about 20 minutes from me. I asked if I could just go to the pro shop and swap them out and they told me no. I sent the failed dots to Oregon, and the new ones shipped from NH. I do understand that they have a procedure, but it's still annoying...though not the end of the world, they respond pretty quickly. The biggest lag is the shipping from the east coast to Oregon.
Warranty Experiences
in Open Pistols
Posted
Too many variables. I sent a gun back to a builder for a cracked slide after about a year of use and over 50K rounds through it. Upon closer inspection, he also found the frame was cracked in the center of the frame rails and the barrel was about done. He actually rebuilt the entire gun for the price of the replacement components. I thought that was way beyond fair. The only original parts were from the fire control group - Hammer, trigger, sear, disco and sear spring. Other builders might not be so generous. So tough question to answer.