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MJinPA

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Posts posted by MJinPA

  1. 1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

    Were they very close at 1x, or at 6x ?

     

    Was it a very bright day, or overcast/misty?

    Both BUT we were only shooting at 50 yards and some close targets (so the reticle wasnt even a factor). It was overcast. Next time I shoot with him, I'll take both scopes over to the long range and compare at 6x and 600 yards. The bezel on the razor is a little thinner. That combined with a slightly wider field of view makes for a slight advantage at 1x. I think the locking illumination on the razor is also nice as he bumped his pst to the off position once or twice. Dont get me wrong, I think the razor 1-6 is fantastic but handling both size by side, I dont think it's worth double the price of the pst gen ii 1-6 for the average shooter. With that being said, I'm definitely a novice and personally have trouble telling the difference between good glass and great glass.

  2.  
    I did a 2-part epoxy and 60 grit SC on my G35. You can definitely wash out any dirt or skin that gets stuck in it. Just use a soft toothbrush and some water. If it’s stubborn build up add some dish soap. Just make sure your not scraping hard at it.
     
    Applying SC with epoxy is just like applying paint to something the durability will all depend on your prep work. The better you degrease the better looking and more durable SC will be.
     
    Once mine really starts to come off from use, I’ll just heat and scrape, and then reapply. I wouldn’t do touch ups, as it likely won’t look very good.

    Thanks. I'm going to try it out and see how it holds up next season.


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  3. Hey do you shoot USPSA or steel challenge at Ontelaunee? that's where I usually do most of my competitions.

    Yep. USPSA. My profile picture is actually from the Monster Match. I'll be at New Holland this Sunday if it isn't too cold.


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  4.  
    Yeah my grip strength is definitely not an issue, I can handle hot loads of 500sw magnum one handed and its not an issue as far as hanging onto the gun. I've been shooting in USPSA production and steel challenge for the last year and didn't do to bad considering my limited experience but I feel a part of my problem is my grip on multiple levels, one is im  gripping to tight with my dominant hand and too week with my support hand and two I must be anticipating the recoil because I end up with a bit of my shots ending up low. I also don't have the greatest eye sight and its hard to focus on my sights and the target but that's a whole other issue but that's why im gonna try open class next year, the dot is a little bit easier to put on the target and stay on target or at least it seems to be easier. I know a lot of my issues can be fixed with more practice but live fire practice is hard for me to be able to do where I live and was wondering if there was any certain type of practice that would help keep a good support hand grip? I can sometimes initially have a good overall grip and shoot good but then as the day goes on I seem to revert back to mainly gripping with my dominant hand that's when things start to get a little out of wack.

    White wall drill will help with trigger control. Do it from a draw with an aggressive par time. This should help mimic live fire grip (vs. just just cycling the slide and pulling the trigger). Also your support hand grip might not be as strong as you think it is. Dropping the second shot can be either insufficient support hand grip OR you may need to try a different recoil spring weight training.


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  5. This is on the grounds that the majority of their safes have been tried and are thief evidence. The Bandit Series is the main safe by Winchester that hasn't been tried. Most weapon safes available are flame resistant in temperatures up to 1200 degrees, however a significant number of Winchesters gun safes are flame resistant in temperatures up to 1400 degrees. The organization has a substitution ensure that spreads free substitution protected, free locksmith administration to open the safe, and free curbside conveyance. They will supplant the safe on the off chance that it is harmed by a robber or is decimated in a fire. The safe must be a similar model or an equivalent model. All safes accompany a two-year guarantee on the bolt and a constrained lifetime guarantee on the protected itself. 
    We should check the most well known Winchester weapon safe audits by their striking highlights.

    Huh? Your content marketing skills are worse than your English.

    Anyone know how to report an account for spam?


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  6. I use a 2 part epoxy and to remove, just heat and scrape. My grip job on my 320X5 has worn down some, but it's still good enough to do the job. Just not as pretty as it used to be

    Thanks. Based on what Darqusoull13 said, it sounds pretty durable but I wonder how you can refresh it once it starts to get worn and dull. Do you think it's possible or would it involve scraping the old and applying a new coat of epoxy and grit?


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  7. Reviving this old thread to get some additional feedback. I'm thinking about doing a silicon carbide grip job on my glock because I want something a little more aggressive than the talons I've been using and I think the talons need to be replaced too often.

    I dry fire a lot and between that and live fire I'm replacing every couple of months.

    So, my questions for those that have some experience with this are...

    (1) how well does it hold up compared to talons?
    (2) can it be refreshed once worn or is it just a matter of cleaning out the skin and dirt with a brush?
    (3) if I decide for some reason that I want/need to remove, is it just a matter of applying heat and scraping?

    Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.


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    Any grip job gurus out there?


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  8. Reviving this old thread to get some additional feedback. I'm thinking about doing a silicon carbide grip job on my glock because I want something a little more aggressive than the talons I've been using and I think the talons need to be replaced too often.

    I dry fire a lot and between that and live fire I'm replacing every couple of months.

    So, my questions for those that have some experience with this are...

    (1) how well does it hold up compared to talons?
    (2) can it be refreshed once worn or is it just a matter of cleaning out the skin and dirt with a brush?
    (3) if I decide for some reason that I want/need to remove, is it just a matter of applying heat and scraping?

    Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.


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  9. Ammoseek.com or Slickgun work great for finding deals. Wolf gold can be found for .28c a round shipped and Federal has a rebate that can get the ammo including shipping down to .24c to 25c a round. I think Wolf gold has a crimped primer pocket though.

    Wolf golf definitely needs to be swaged before reloading. I keep it in a separate bucket for when/if I decide to process it.


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  10. I shot at my local indoor range tonight for the first time. Although not ideal for uspsa practice sessions I think I'll try to make it weekly during the winter months and use the time to focus on SH and WH shooting.


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  11. I've just been running dry (no lube) on a 650 with carbide dies but switching to a 1050 and thinking about adding some 1-shot to my reloading routine.
     
    Most of the brass prep I see with one shot involves a ziplock bag or a few hundred cases in a cardboard box. Just doesn't seem efficient to me.
     
    Curious if anyone has a good process for prepping large amounts of brass with one-shot. Can I just use a big plastic bin, spray over the top, mix around, and repeat a few times? or will that allow too much 1 shot into the cases? 
     
    Any input appreciated [emoji4] 

    I use 1-shot for pistol. Makes the whole process smoother. Also, it's a dry lube and not an issue if you get it inside the case. Dillon says it's a non-issue with their spray lube too but I only use Dillon for rifle cases.


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  12. Sounds like you got a lot good gun recommendations. Only thing I'd add is buy used and put the $100 you save toward ammo or a reloading machine. If your son really likes uspsa, factory ammo costs will add up fast. Also, to be competitive he'll need to do a lot of dry fire practice. Get him either the Anderson or Stoeger book for Christmas.


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  13. Mjin, you asked about using your camera to take photos.  When you have the camera view like it is in your photo, usually just touch the touchscreen somewhere on the image outside of the optic.  That tells the camera to focus where you touched.
     
    Here are some photos I took through an optic (Razor 1-6x) with my phone.
    4TpEcUN.jpg
     

    Thanks for the tip! I've always tried to focus the camera through the optic which never seemed to work


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  14. After putting the sight back into its mount and on to a rifle, I can confirm that to my eyes there is now zero magnification! I think that while holding it in hand earlier, the blue tint was creating the illusion of magnification. I'll confirm later this week or next when I take it out to re-zero.


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  15. Just a quick update. Got my MRO back today. Glass updated at no charge. Comparing side to side with a Sig Romeo 5 there is still some very slight magnification in the center and the blue tint appears the same. The blue never bothered me and it's now close enough to zero mag for me to be happy. These photos aren't the greatest representation but it's the best I can do with my phone. Happy to take more if someone has a tip on how to focus a phone camera through the red dot lens. Sig Romeo 5 and MRO.e98c9ac6009753a05e84c5292e162f6d.jpg5a0fe7d0bb161c7ed2d8cb65acd277cc.jpg


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    215e625c94e61f7d770f831b7696222e.jpg



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  16. Just a quick update. Got my MRO back today. Glass updated at no charge. Comparing side to side with a Sig Romeo 5 there is still some very slight magnification in the center and the blue tint appears the same. The blue never bothered me and it's now close enough to zero mag for me to be happy. These photos aren't the greatest representation but it's the best I can do with my phone. Happy to take more if someone has a tip on how to focus a phone camera through the red dot lens. Sig Romeo 5 and MRO.e98c9ac6009753a05e84c5292e162f6d.jpg5a0fe7d0bb161c7ed2d8cb65acd277cc.jpg


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