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uhmeebuh

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Posts posted by uhmeebuh

  1. Yes, the springer plate works just fine and is a less expensive way to do it.  

     

    I have the Zev Octane slide and barrel and I love it.  I run and SRO and it's a LOT lower AND it covers the back of the barrel so I don't get any blast on the glass.  It's expensive but it was a worthy investment for me (I have one in X5 and one on a Legion).  I've run both in CO and they work great.  The regular X5 size is my back up and general use gun (since it's lighter). 

  2. On 7/6/2021 at 9:33 AM, BillChunn said:

     

    The GX Products VICE holster completely clears the thumb rest.  No Dremel work required at all.  And it locks.

     

    BC

     

     

    You are correct!

     

    Sorry, I wasn't clear about what I meant - I run a Zev slide on my X5 since it let's me direct mount an SRO and get it a lot closer to the barrel.  The GX Vice X5 holster does not work with some aftermarket slides like the Zev.  

  3. I was all about RHT but the wait time and cost didn't work for me (I run the Zev slide for my CO setup since it gets the SRO a LOT lower than the factory plus a plate). 

     

    The GX holster doesn't work with a *thumb rest [generic]* so that was returned (but you might not care about that).

     

    The DAA holster is very flexible and nice but also doesn't let you run the *thumb rest [generic]*. 

     

    I actually run a Four Bros holster for a *thumb rest [generic]* and even it needed to be trimmed to fit the more forward SRO on the Zev slide (love it BTW).  And that works great.  I'm working with him for a deeper cut to see the chamber.  

  4. Hi all –

     

    I’d like to get the ZR tactical guide rod… But they are back ordered and didn’t know when they would get more in.

     

    Are there other options that other people are aware of?  I want to fix the over sprung nature of the OEM recoil spring.  
     

    Thanks!

  5. Hi all –

     

    I’d like to get the ZR tactical guide rod… But they are back ordered and didn’t know when they would get more in.

     

    Are there other options that other people are aware of?  I want to fix the over sprung nature of the OEM recoil spring.  
     

    Thanks!

  6. Hi all –

     

    I’d like to get the ZR tactical guide rod… But they are back ordered and didn’t know when they would get more in.

     

    Are there other options that other people are aware of?  I want to fix the over sprung nature of the OEM recoil spring.  
     

    Thanks!

  7. On 6/21/2021 at 6:49 AM, BJB said:

    If the failure to reset issue occurs intermittently in live-fire but the gun always resets when racking the slide in dry-fire, you're likely experiencing sear flutter & need to replace the sear spring. 

    If you have the Apex sear spring in there, or just a real old OEM spring, it can weaken over time through use. What happens with a weakened sear spring is when the gun fires and the slide reciprocates the sear spring pushes the sear back up to be ready to catch the striker as the slide comes back forward but since it's weakened it rebounds slightly after initially resetting (bounces if you will) and misses catching the striker because of the bounce or flutter. Spend $4 or $5 and get a new sear spring and see if this takes care of your problem. You can do this fix yourself as it's quite easy. 

    When I put Apex in my M&P it was beautiful for a couple thousand rounds but then started experiencing intermittent failure to reset.  The Apex sear spring is a little weaker than OEM and just weakened quicker.  I put the factory sear spring back in & it solved the problem.

     

    Thank you as well!  I'll order a new one and start there...

     

    Brandon

  8. On 6/18/2021 at 8:59 PM, mpom said:

    More details would be very helpful. Can you check and see if trigger resets with the slide off? That is, pull trigger towards frame hard, while keeping it there, push trigger bar to right so it disengages from sear. Then slowly release trigger and see if loop reengages the sear. 

    Another possible issue is the striker not catching on the sear, thus no reset.

    Can you determine which scenario is occuring, or if its a different one altogether?

     

    Mark

     

    Thanks again Mark - I tested this and it's working fine.  It resets every time.  

     

     

  9.  

    On 6/15/2021 at 8:37 PM, mpom said:

    Suspect most here do their own installs and adjustments of Apex trigger components, and would be glad to offer help in diagnosing and correcting your issue, if you are interested, but if you want a gunsmith, suggest you check w Apex for a recommendation.

    Mark

     

    I did the install myself and it worked for a number of years (and a few thousand rounds)...but....

     

    On 6/15/2021 at 9:19 PM, NoSteel said:

    It may cost you less to just put a new trigger kit in rather than get it off to a smith for repairs???

    ...I might just need a new trigger

  10. Hi all - 

     

    I have an M&P gen 1 with an Apex trigger that...doesn't reset anymore.  I've tried a few of the usual things (after talking with support) and I think I need to send that to a good gunsmith.

     

    Any recommendations for an M&P gunsmith from the group here?

     

    Thanks!

  11. 16 hours ago, echotango said:

    I used jb plastic weld and made a mold out of cardboard.  Not pretty but works.  

     

    thumbnail.jpg

     

    Very cool - I ended up asking a buddy to make some dummy rounds and use the TRT Tap Rack thingie so they don't strip the rounds out.  So, it IS the exact same as my actual mags but I would have preferred the DAA mags just be a bit longer...

  12. 15 hours ago, jejb said:

    So you bought the parts and then sent them with your gun to Burke to have them installed? Just making sure I got it straight. I see GG also offers the service of installing their kit and trigger, as well as polishing some internals. Is Burke a better option than GG for that work?

     

    I didn't see any needs to send the FCU to anyone for the GG kit (and most don't but it depends on your comfort with this sort of thing).  It took me about 20 minutes to get it in and it's a lot better than stock...but I'm pretty mechanical and do a lot of minor gun work (though I'm no gun smith).  There are a number of youtube videos that can help and it's doable (though no where near as easy as a glock).

     

    The Sig Armorer trigger needs the whole gun to be sent out since it's a lot of custom welding (on the trigger bar and trigger), grinding (on those parts, the sear, and striker in the slide) and polishing (on a variety of parts).  Mine didn't have the over travel ground correctly and I had to file it down (wouldn't cleanly/easily break 10%-20% of the time).  For the price it was very disappointing so I took care of it myself so I didn't have to send it in again (and take 2 weeks).  I'm very happy with this setup now.  The sear to striker fitting was well done and reduced the creep to next to nothing.  So, I ended up with a better trigger but not sure I'd do it again for the price (over $400) and issues.  

     

    A very similar kit can be done with the GG kit and one of the adjustable triggers but it's not as short or crisp.  Just don't play with the over travel or you can impact the drop safety.  

  13. 34 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:


    The 180 is always defined as something centered straight down the bay, parallel to the rear wall.

     

    The position of the gun at the start doesn’t matter. Keeping the gun at least 90 degrees away from the spectators behind you is what matters. Protecting them and the match staff is the purpose of the rule. ;) 

    Thank you!  I assumed it was something like that but didn’t recall seeing the definition in the rule book.  
     

    So, you really have to have your holster really in the middle to risk a 180 violation (at least from what I’ve seen on myself).  I have mine moved to in front of my femur and it doesn’t seem to come close to the 180 demarcation.  

  14. On 5/6/2021 at 7:14 AM, Racinready300ex said:

    Having spent a lot of time in Limited and a little in open, now in CO. I moved my mag pouches forward to where they are on my limited rig. It doesn't make me any faster, but it's a little less tiring on my shoulder in dry fire. My holster stayed right where it was. But even in limited my holster was the same as a production rig.

     

    As you move your gun forward, remember to be aware of the 180 on the draw. As soon as the gun pops from the holster even though it's pointing down you're now restricted by the 180. I have seen open guys get bit by this, an example would be a right handed shooter with the first target off to the left. If you start facing the target the instant the gun pops from the holster you're DQ'd. At a major there will probably be a guy who's job it is to watch for just that. 

     

    edit....I added a magnet too obviously. They are essentially mandatory now.


    Thanks for the other consideration - I hadn’t thought about the 180.  Do you know where/how it is defunded?  From the draw?  From position to the range?

  15. Was watching Joe Farewell with his holster more forward of his hip bone for 3-gun and, with the new USPSA rules around holster and mag placement, I decided to experiment a bit (but less than in college 😄 )

     

    So, I tried the holster much more forward....and it was odd at first but I really ended up liking it and my times are about the same (maybe a bit faster).  The grip is now where my right hand falls and so is the first mag pouch.  

     

    So, what have you changed (if anything)?

    CZ TS 2

    I fondled the base blue TS2 model at my LGS today and it seems a lot like my previous TSO with some very minor changes.  Metal trigger (not poly as I assumed it would be), great trigger break, non existent trigger reset (like nothing discernible at all), and a few hundred less than I paid for my TSO.  It’s great for what it is but so focused on IPSC classes that I don’t see much demand for it here in the US.  
     

    For folks who aren’t adamant about having a 2011, it would make a great purchase for range use if you have larger hands.  If you do have smaller hands, a Shadow 2 SAO seems just as well fit for $500 less and will serve the same purpose (but a less good trigger).   

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