Janskis
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Posts posted by Janskis
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You aren't prepping movement at all. After you stop shooting you decide "now i'll initiate my movement", then you run somewhere, stop and initiate a sight picture to aim.
Like others said, get the gun up sooner. The new thing I'm bringing here is to initiate movement before you are finished shooting. A slight lean will do it at first, but once you get to know your shooting ability and speed, and movement ability you can take it a lot further. The idea is that when you decide to start moving you can start moving immediately as you have already prepped yourself to be in a position which allows you to start fast.
It's called easy exit and there's a crapload of info on easy/hard exit/entry! -
On 2/12/2020 at 11:27 PM, SGT_Schultz said:
When I extend my arm my wrist doesn't rotate inwards. It stays vertical.
How is canting the gun "ergonomic"?
If you punch do you punch with your fist vertical?
Personally I cant a lot, not 45 degrees but like 60 degrees from horizontal or something. Its more relaxed and the recoil is more predictable for me. If I keep my wrist vertical the recoil is all over the place. Sure, canted might recoil a bit more but it is a lot more predictable for me. -
1 hour ago, robertg5322 said:
I use them for function testing, not dry fire, but some like to mimic the weight of a mag with rounds in it, and some are under the impression that guns are delicate like watches, and want to use them, along with expensive, exotic lubes, and $150.00 Pelican cases for transport.
To each his own. Your gun, do what you want with it.
Yes sorry for being unclear! I do have dummies as a weight in my mags but don't see a reason to have one in the chamber to prevent damage from dry firing.
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I don't see any reason to use snap caps or dummies in the barrel when dry firing.
1. you most likely won't break the firing pin on the gun by dry firing. I haven't used snap caps and won't start using now. Nothing has broken regardless of probably thousands of clicks.
2. You shouldn't be pulling the trigger when dry firing, especially when shooting with a light and crisp trigger like in a 1911/2011 (per Ben Stoeger - Breakthrough marksmanship, although he doesn't differentiate different platforms). It is enough to pull the slack off of the trigger to get that "idea" of pulling the trigger. -
Just now, Ken6PPC said:
The recoil spring has little to nothing to do with extraction and ejection.
If it is TOO STRONG, it can impede feeding, because the magazine won't have enough time to lift the next cartridge.
If it is TOO LIGHT, it can fail to cycle the slide enough to feed.
Yeah I was just answering to the guy wondering about the recoil spring. With 14 lb I had the bullets hitting the top of the breech and failing to feed. The stronger spring circumvented the issue, but mag lips should probably be tuned to actually solve the problem...
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1 hour ago, mesa3gunner said:
In the picture the ejector looks very short. It may be broken off or been shortened causing the problem.. There should be a leg on the front side of it.
I bought the gun new. The ejector is just as it was when new, the finish is barely lost on it.
56 minutes ago, Ken6PPC said:Sounds like you need to increase your extractor tension.
It is kinda hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like the hook is touching the beveled part of the case, where I put a blue arrow. If so, reduce the hook until only the case rim touches the flat on the extractor.
Then, put the extractor part way into the hole in the hole in the slide, and bend it to increase tension. You may have to remove metal from the pressure pad just rearward from the hook. I'm not talking about the bump that is right beside your finger in your picture. I mean the one about a 1/4" behind the tip of the hook. See the red arrow.
You want the extractor to grip the case tightly enough that it takes a little shaking to dislodge it from the slide. It is possible to take off too much metal, so go slow, and test often.
The ejector does seem a little short, but the original ejectors for 45 ACP 1911 were short. When the extractor tension is correct, I bet your ejection problems will be gone. If they don't, then think about replacing the ejector, but work on the extractor first. 90% of all feeding and ejection issues in a 1911 are either magazine or extractor related.
Red arrow material removal is once again new stuff. This one I won't file, I'll have to get some finer sandpaper for this. I managed to tighten the extractor a bit, now it snaps in place when inserting it back. I did file a slight bevel to the vertical inner side of the ejector to get more torque and more consistent ejection.
51 minutes ago, rishii said:Simple test
load a dummy round or if your gun will feed empty brass that’ll works better, remove the mag and hand cycle
did the round eject out the top or fall out the bottom, if it fell out the bottom, your extractor tension is loose
also you put in a heavier spring, 16.5 is standard, a heavier spring will retard the rearward motion of the slide, reducing the energy needed to extract and eject the case
your ejector is standard for 45 acp, I wouldn’t put and extended
I tried hand cycling dummies, now I'm getting a bit better extraction than before. The original spring was probably 14 lbs and now I have a 16 lb spring in.
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The ejector seems tuned but the rounding on the extractor is minimal. I slightly rounded the lower edge of the extractor and trid to stiffen it slightly, it just popped out of the slide, unlike my open gun extractor, and the round seemed to just barely hang on the extractor. This one is really hard to tighten though, as it has been reinforced on both sides.
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1 hour ago, Ken6PPC said:
Here is what your extractor should look like when a case is inserted:
Notice that the hook does not touch the rim, nor the bottom of the extraction groove of the case. Only the flat part of the extractor is touching the cartridge rim. After this shape is correct, adjust extractor tension so a loaded round neither falls out on it's own, nor is held so tightly that shaking the slide won't dislodge it. It should dislodge with a gentle shaking of the slide.
As noted in the picture, kudos to Jerry Keefer for the picture of "perfect" extractor fitting!
Thanks for the pic. I've done extractor tension tuning with my 9mm open but have never realized that the hook doesn't touch the rim itself. I believed myself (and read around) that .45acp ejection is slightly different from 9mm so that's why I'm asking. I'll check the internals when I get home shortly. I'll also provide pics of the ejector.
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Video probably tells most of the story but I'll provide some backstory.
The pistol has functioned flawlessly for something between 1000 and 2000 rounds after I swapped a stiffer recoil spring (by the looks of it, I could use an even stiffer one, more aggressive FPS plate or a stiffer main spring).I posted a shorter version of this video on my personal facebook and a gunsmith I know said that this needs tuning. After said comment I decided to slow it down some more and I noticed the bad ejection too. I've had some troubles emptying the gun after stages due to the anemic ejection before.
Now the question is how do I fix this? I know the correct answer is TAKE IT TO A GUNSMITH but I would really like to understand how the ejection is affected by ejector and extractor tuning. By the looks of this, I'd say the extractor is a bit too stiff and should be rounded (can't remember if it already is) to ensure smoother chambering and easier ejection. Am I even in the right ballpark? Is this problem more of an extractor problem than an ejection problem?
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On 8/3/2019 at 3:08 PM, BenAlpha said:
Who makes it?
Uronen Precision in Finland
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On 1/12/2019 at 10:46 PM, MrPan said:
No worries bro keep up the good work!
Try the jerry michalek drill.
5 targets start in the middle fire 1 on each side going back to the middle each time.
I've tried to stay away from this one as it seems to eat up ammo a lot, but I'll be sure to try it!
On 1/13/2019 at 12:24 AM, Chili said:Care to share the drill? Also what Reddit group, I haven't found many worth hanging out in so far.
Courtesy of redditor g00n24 :
Set up four targets, at least 20-25 degrees apart, distance can vary. Draw on either end, shoot it, transition to the next, return to first, transition to next etc. Basically you shoot in order 1-2-1-3-1-4-1. He originally meant this to be a dry fire drill, but I've found it works GREAT with static poppers using only one shot per target. Keeps the cost low and the drill still efficient. I have also been shooting this with a .22 and it does not impact the efficiency of the drill at all.
The subreddit in question is competitionshooting. Great posters there although it is quite quiet...
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On 1/9/2019 at 6:47 PM, MrPan said:
Looks like you really need to drive the gun as fast as you can between the targets. I think you could save alot of time with that low hanging fruit.
Thanks for the tip! I got a great drill tip from a reddit user and I have also been doing the Blake drill for a while now. I have noticed a huge improvement in transitions. Still a lot of workto do though!
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I have two 140mm STI mags, one STI 170mm with UP internals and Dawson basepad and one stock 170mm MBX.
The MBX one is the only one I trust 100%. Has worked flawlessly out of the box and is my main mag. They also hold 30 rounds of 9mm which is a big plus.
They are expensive tho, at least here...
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On 10/5/2018 at 2:50 PM, abb1 said:
Overall, very good runs! I liked that you took advantage of shooting on the move where ever you could. Keep up the good work, M is right around the corner
Thanks! My biggest advantage is shooting on the move so I try to utilize it as much as I can, sometimes too much...
On 10/23/2018 at 7:50 PM, CHA-LEE said:Your gun is on target long before you actually shoot. You need to dig into what is causing this delay. Could be focusing on the wrong thing, not prepping the trigger, or several other things.
Main reason is me losing the dot, especially during this match. The excessive dot loss in this match was due to being a bit ill but I do have the same problem even when I'm ok. I got a great tip for transition dryfire training and will start that as soon as my left wrist heals (tore a ligament a month or so ago). I think I'm losing the dot because I haven't really trained transitions properly.
On 11/7/2018 at 7:58 PM, Prov1x said:You shoot very upright and seem to stagger into some positions. You should lower your center of gravity by bending your knees and leaning forward at the waist. You appear to be leaning backwards with your knees bent, which makes it slower to explode into certain movements etc.
Also it looks like you are eating up a ton of charlies on some of those stages, even shooting major pf you still need better points to some extent.
Good point! I haven't had to consider the upright position too much since open pistols don't really recoil... I've kinda seen it before but now that you mention it I really notice it, especially on stage 2. I try to teach the stance Travis Haley explains in one of his videos, but I seem to forget it myself as soon as I'm doing something else than training static drills. I'll try to remember to keep my center of gravity low!
My A-percentage has declined a lot after switching to major, gonna have to try and focus a bit more
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On 10/5/2018 at 3:51 AM, Dranoel said:
Were the sights on target when I squeezed? Do I have proper trigger control? If the answer to either of those is "no", I don't squeeze the shot off. If the answer is "yes" then I already know what I need to without seeing the sights lift. If the answer is "no" and you are squeezing the shot off anyway, then you need to go back and work on your fundamentals and discipline.
If the the sights were properly aligned on the center of the target when I squeezed the trigger, I KNOW where that shot went. WHat is the sight lifting going to tell me that I don't already know?
Calling the shot AFTER the bullet has left the barrel is damn near useless. Know where it is going to go BEFORE you send it. THAT is calling your shots. Everything else is just guessing.
This is very interesting, this is also a lot closer to what I do although pretty much unconsciously. I've always read people talking about seeing sights lift but I haven't gotten a proper hang of it. Thanks for explaining!
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On 11/21/2017 at 10:23 PM, Dranoel said:
I'm burning holes in the targets with my eyes. I see the sight, whether iron or dot, for 1/1000 sec as I squeeze the trigger. If you are seeing your sights lift, you are already late to your next target.
how do you call your shots if you don't see your sights lift? Just by feel?
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8 hours ago, Akkid17 said:
No sight picture at a target and no dry fire, they are a lot more stringent on what you can and can’t do. Watching videos from world shoot and ipsc nationals very few people did anything beside a basic look around and load the gun, press check and holster, mostly stirring the pot at this point, we generally get a good laugh at our one notable extended make ready-er, generally all in good fun though
Looking at the new rule proposals for the next GA, it seems that dryfire is allowed (a clarification has been added to note that dryfiring at ground is ok, thus I think it is ok now too). But yeah, the sight picture is correct.
I've noticed that it makes for a better run if you don't think too much at LAMR, just get the gun ready and nod
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21 hours ago, Akkid17 said:
I’d be cool with going full ipsc on make ready, the 3-4 min make ready primadonnas are irritating
What do you mean with full ipsc? AFAIK we don't limit the LAMR at IPSC
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I don't think dry firing at LAMR is forbidden in IPSC.
This addition exists in the rules proposal for the next GA:
Quote8.7.1 Competitors are prohibited from taking a sight picture and/or dry firing prior to the Start Signal. Violation will result in a warning for the first occurrence and one procedural penalty for each subsequent occurrence in the same match. Competitors may, while pointing their firearm directly at the ground in front of them, adjust electronic sights.
Note that verifying the gun chamber is clear and activating the trigger once, while pointing the firearm at the ground directly in front of the competitor, is not a breach of this rule or Rule 10.5.9.
I interpret this as a clarification and not a new rule, thus implying that it is in fact allowed.
Also, sight picture means aligning the sights with a target. Aiming at ground is OK -
3 hours ago, perttime said:
USPSA rules prohibit "race holsters" for Singlestack. IPSC rules don't have that limitation for Classic: just where you can have it on the belt.
Single stack too?! I though this madness covered only production!
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On 8/21/2018 at 10:32 PM, Foxbat said:
Another strong vote for steel grip.
I shot several guns with plastic grips, but when I switched to steel ones I knew this was it.
Open guns specifically? I've heard both here and recently in person that steel grips aren't good on open guns, but make a helluva difference in standard/limited
On 8/22/2018 at 6:53 AM, perttime said:What is it about steel grips? Weight and balance? More rigid?
More weight low and at the back, countering muzzle rise. Drawback apparently is sluggish transitions and weight.
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On 8/22/2018 at 5:57 AM, PatJones said:
Will a layer of grip tape fit in your holster?
If it doesn't, race holster time!
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Double tap
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On 7/12/2018 at 6:10 PM, allamericanbp said:
Thanks for all the input. And I figured that is what I would hear. I have been doing a lot of training and range time. The only reason that I ask is because I shot an STI DVC and I was able to run the trigger much faster than my stock M&P. It did have some gamer ammo but the gun is phenomenal. That is the reason for the question. Just wondering how much the trigger, weight of the gun, ammunition, etc. make. I have heard the training reply for a few years but there has to be a reason why people will spend big $$$ on these guns and why most champions run metal guns. I am not saying that it is impossible, but I'm just saying.
If you take a mixed assortment of shooters and give them a mixed assortment of guns, the best shooter wins. If you take the very best shooters who have very similar skill levels, the one with the best gun wins. (very elaborate statement just to make a point)
But then again, I definitely recommend buying a high end gun but you still must realize that practice is what makes you suck less. The high end gun on the other hand, lets you focus on the fundamentals, forgetting small magazines, bad trigger pull and strong muzzle flip. Also, the high end guns usually are just more enjoyable to shoot, making range time more fun! Win-win am I right?
I started in open div and have progressed far faster than friends who started in production. I have also tried production div with loaner guns for fun and the results speak for themselves.
Wall bases, supports and ways to keep walls up
in Target & Prop Design and Construction
Posted
Hi all
The current way things are done in Finland is to anchor the walls to the ground properly. This is great for building sturdy stages where you can lean on the walls and do stupid s#!t the stage designers couldn't think of. But the problem is the time it takes to build, usually a whole day. Based on several match videos from the states, USPSA clubs use portable bases where you just insert the wall and it stays up.
I've been playing around with the idea on the base design, but I thought that I could ask from those who probably have already solved most of the problems I can't even think of at this point. We did consider casting with cement, but the holes for wall legs become a problem. Is steel the way to go? Anyone willing to share their designs or pics of existing solutions?