Duane Thomas
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Posts posted by Duane Thomas
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Classic.
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Just be sure to blue Loctite them in place after installation to avoid this:
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My advice, invest in a good screwdriver.
Or some blue Loctite. I'm a major fan.
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Would be nice if they were .40 S&W barrels, since that's what we're discussing here.
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Is it possible to replace the yoke screw assembly in an L-frame with the older 1-piece yoke screw? And would you want to? Assuming it was possible, what advantages and disadvantages might that confer?
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Before you think you need an aftermarket barrel for "the extra case support" I would suggest actually comparing the amount of case support between aftermarket and the Glock factory barrel. You might find it an eye opening experience.
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I had the same experience. I used to carry mostly what I call "middleweights," i.e. slightly cutdown versions of larger parent guns, things like the Glock 19 and SIG P228, Then I got into competition shooting, first IDPA then USPSA, and, since I have always been very serious about shooting in competition with my carry gun, one of the effects on me was that I started carrying larger guns. And really, why not? If you look right at it, something like a Glock 17 or a SIG P226 is about the same size as a Lightweight Commander (though admittedly a bit thicker) which was for decades considered a compact, easily portable and concealable carry gun.
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The SVI thumb safety are the best, most people haven't tried them but once they do they never go back.
So, what makes the SVI thumb safety "the best"?
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I was unaware that the firing pin channel had a specal coating that would be runied by solvent or a brush. That is good to know.
The firing pin channel doesn't have a special coating, it has a separate plastic sleeve aka firing pin channel liner that is press fit into place. I can't see it being damaged by solvent - the Glock was, after all, designed as a military service weapon and thus had to be safe to clean in military solvent tanks. I think the concern there was that some of our modern solvents/lubricants are, intentionally, designed not to evaporate, and to leave a light film of lubricant behind. This "wet" film could serve to attract and hold powder fouling, which could in turn lead to a buildup of gunk in the firing pin channel that interferes with free travel of the firing pin, thus leading to failures to fire.
I wouldn't use a metal brush in the firing pin channel, as I would be concerned about the bristles scratching and roughening the surface of the firing pin channel liner, thus increasing its friction quotient on the firing pin and giving you the same problem, and result, as crud in the firing pin channel. Actually I see no need for a brush, period, of any type to clean the firing pin channel. I use Q-tips and rubbing alcohol in this area, myself. It seems to do a good job getting the crud out, but swiftly evaporates and leaves behind no residue.
BTW, in most Glocks I have owned/handled/cleaned the channel liner is such a tight fit it's extremely difficult, if not impossible to get out, even if you wanted to. Though I guess we should never say impossible.
I really don't worry about it, just leave it in place and clean it every once in awhile with Q-tips and alcohol. -
Hey Duane! Wow, that's the best reply I could have received, thanks man!
Yer welcome.
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I didn't even know it was possible to digitize vinyl records. Cool. There's certain stuff, like a lot of old Bob Seger, that has never been released on CD. Are you able to separate each song into its own individual file, or is it more like each individual album side is its own file? How's the sound quality? What sort of software and hardware are you using?
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I know several 686 shooters who have had their cylinders come off during a reload.
Why would that happen with a 686 and not a 66? Sounds like a matter of the retaining screw coming loose, which could happen on either gun, yes?
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Apparently those good ol' boys down in Georgia are better at faking concealed carry permits than the folks in Washington state. Or the people in charge are more paranoid about that happening. Whichever.
Of course, given the heat and humidity in Georgia (and I say that as someone who spent the first 18 years of his life there so I know whereof I speak) the "just a piece of paper" approach might not work so well as it would in cooler and less humid climes.
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It's worth noting that, assuming you're ordering direct from Scott Warren, you can mix and match a bit - at least in my experience, and it's my impression this is not only something he would do for a gunwriter - and ask for the thin front blade with a Sevigny rear. That's how I've gone on my WTS-Sevigny sight combos.
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They don't force you to shoot to slidelock in IDPA, but if you choose to reload before the gun is empty you have to retain the magazine that came out of the gun. Therefore, since the slidelock reload is actually the fastest reloading technique in IDPA (which is 180 degrees away from USPSA/IPSC where, ideally, we would never fire the gun dry because a reload from slidelock is slower than a true speedload) it is frequently advantageous to plan the way you attack the stage to shoot the gun to slidelock at the right point. This means you need to have a gun that reliably slidelocks every time it's empty.
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The Gen-4 double rod/spring system actually makes sense in .40 S&W, and I could see its value in something like a .357 SIG or 10mm Auto, arguably even in .45 ACP. But in 9mm? Not needed. Thus far the Gen-4 RSA has only proven really problematic in 9mm - which is ironically the caliber that didn't need it to start with.
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In Washington state it's a piece of paper that you fold in two so it will fit in your wallet.
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In the end, however-- it's not that huge of a concern. This applies specifically to the game we play, as the goal is to NOT have to reload from slide lock.
That depends on what game you're playing.
In IDPA the slidelock reload is a huge part of the game. A gun that won't lock back, or locks back unreliabily, is a big liability in that sport. -
The 66, assuming it's in good shape, would be an excellent choice for SSR. For ESR, as has been pointed out, not so much. Firing full-power .357 Magnum level ammo out of a K-frame is not much fun. Actually, firing full-power .357 ammo out of an L-frame is not much fun either, it's just less not fun. I say get the 66, since it's available now at a good price. knock out SSR, then worry about which gun for ESR when the time comes.
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Could you post a picture of the firing pin?
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Am I reading you correctly that the Kimber safety have noticeably less "flex" or movement in it than a regular safety?
Not really. The only solution to your problem is to take material off the offside lever until your finger no longer pushes up on it. Bigger is not always better.
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You don't say what weight recoil spring you're using. If it's the stock setup, in my experience I would say you can probably solve your problem simply by going to a lighter, aftermarket spring. I have noticed, for myself, that with a stock 17-pound recoil spring in a Glock 17 (and the Gen-4 two-rod/spring setup is supposed to give a cumulative effect of 17 pounds, as well) that the gun will always lock open when empty when I fire it with two hands on the gun, but I'll get the occasional failure to lock back when firing RHO (which is my master hand), and more frequent failures to lock back firing LHO. Drop the recoil spring to 15 pounds, I begin getting flawless lockback both freestyle and RHO, but still the occasional failure LHO. Drop it down to 13 pounds, then I begin getting perfect lockback every time whether I'm firing the gun freestyle, RHO or LHO.
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In IDPA the slidelock reload is a huge part of the game. A gun that won't lock back, or locks back unreliabily, is a big liability in that sport.
Suggestions for G35 Grip Increase?
in Glock
Posted
It seems there's really nothing you like about the shooter/grip interface on this gun. Before I'd start doing major surgery, yes, I'd look at just getting a different gun that you actually do like.