johnson184
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Posts posted by johnson184
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Was going to get a second 1050, but now I'm considering a 550 or 650 for my less frequently reloaded calibers. Was leaning towards a 550 since it'll also reload 338 Lapua, but I could just use a single stage press for it since I don't need to reload a lot of those rounds. So now I'm leaning towards a 650 over the 550. But how long do caliber swaps even take?
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Well shoot... I ordered a Dillon 1050.
But that still leaves me needing a press to load my precision rifle rounds (especially 338 Lapua which can't be loaded on a 1050)
Trying to decide if I should go with a Forster Co-Ax or a Dillon 550B just for 338 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor.
Still need a 50BMG press too. Looking at the Dillon BFR, but there's really no good reviews or videos of it out there in action. Wondering if anyone even bought one lol. Also considering the Hornady 50BMG press for the quick change die changes or a Lee Classic Cast. I'm wondering if I should just go this route since I could probably also load 338 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor on the Hornady or Lee press.
Do you have any reloading experience, or the 1050 is going to be your first press??
Been reloading for a while on a buddy's 650 for a few months so I'm not a complete novice to reloading.
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Thinking of getting my 1050 set up with an autodrive. The AmmoBot looks like a pretty nice setup, and it's priced a lot better than the Mark 7. Wondering if anyone here is running one and can provide some feedback on it. Seems to be the newest kid on the block.
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What case gage do you use for .223?
And I was looking at those... was debating between the Hundo or the EGW. Didn't realize there was another option lol.
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Any downsides to using undersized or small base dies? Wondering why they don't offer any sets with them. Can't seem to find any drawbacks with them.
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I have 2-1050's, a 650, a 550 and a T7 Turret. For my main pistol calibers (.9mm, .40 S&W & .45ACP) I use the exact same die assortment. EGW U-die, RCBS Lock-out die, Redding Competition Micrometer Seating die and Redding Competition Micrometer Crimp die.
Awesome! Really appreciate you laying exactly which dies you like. I think I'm going to go with those for 9mm and .45ACP.
Do you load any .223 on your 1050? Any die preferences there?
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Couldn't resist and found a G17L in new condition at a great price. But I didn't even think about holsters! D'oh! Any good ones?
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I have at least one set of every brand. They all work. I think Redding dies are worth the premium price. Lee is my least favorite.
Which Redding set do you like?
They seem to go up to the $165 mark for their competition die set. I don't mind paying more for quality, but I'm just not sure I'd know how to use all the features it offers.
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So this may be a really stupid question... but how do you know which one you prefer/like? Just eyeballing the dies, I can't really see a difference.
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Been going to a local reloading shop for advice and help. Fella helping me was pretty adamant I get Lee die sets for 9mm, .45ACP, and .223 for my Dillon 1050 I have ordered in .308.
Wondering what the difference in the popular die sets are. I think he said the Lee die sets were about 2/3 the cost of a Dillon die set and superior in performance.
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Ordered the Frankfort wet tumbler yesterday... but do I also need a vibrating tumbler for corn cob media to get rid of case lube after prepping rifle brass? Or do you guys wet tumble the sizing wax off too?
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Found one for about $900... would like to get into .50 reloading, but any personal experiences with one?
I know it's going to be really high quality, but a part of me is wondering just how useful it is since you have to move the 50BMG cases around so much manually.
Station 1. Deprime/Resize
Station 2. Remove case and put on top of toolhead for priming. (Assuming swaging is not needed... if so... Dillon has a $300 50BMG swager lol)
All the brass will then need to be trimmed down in a separate Giraud trimmer I have. All the brass will then be moved back to the Dillon for loading.
Station 3. Hornady powder measure. (I don't think Dillon has one for 50 BMG)
Station 4. Bullet Seating. (Manually remove completed round and move next brass to station 3 for powder)
Think that works? Basically it's a high quality/durable press and saves me the hassle of removing any dies. Or do I have a grave misunderstanding of the process?
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Ordered a Dillon 1050 for .308 the other day and now I need a set of 9mm, .45ACP, and .223 dies. Found a local reloading shop today and asked them about different die sets. Was recommended to go with Redding and that their competition die sets and micro-adjustable crimp dies were the best. Would you guys recommend the competition die sets for all 3 calibers? Crimp dies recommended? And what powder measure/die do you suggest pairing them with?
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So just so I'm understanding correctly.
Both the 550 and the Co-Ax make equally consistent rounds for precision shooting... but the Co-Ax saves a little money?
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Well shoot... I ordered a Dillon 1050.
But that still leaves me needing a press to load my precision rifle rounds (especially 338 Lapua which can't be loaded on a 1050)
Trying to decide if I should go with a Forster Co-Ax or a Dillon 550B just for 338 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor.
Still need a 50BMG press too. Looking at the Dillon BFR, but there's really no good reviews or videos of it out there in action. Wondering if anyone even bought one lol. Also considering the Hornady 50BMG press for the quick change die changes or a Lee Classic Cast. I'm wondering if I should just go this route since I could probably also load 338 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor on the Hornady or Lee press.
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At least this is my plan:
Tool head 1:
1. Size/Deprime
2. Swage
3. NA
4. NA
5. NA
6. Trim with RT1200/1500
7. NA
/wet tumble to remove lube.
Tool Head 2:
1. NA
2. Swage
3. Prime
4. Powder
5. Powder Check (optional)
6. Seat Bullet
7. Crimp (if applicable)
~g
Guess I'm just really not getting it or am dumb lol. Why couldn't one do this...
1. FL Resize/Deprime
2. Swage
3. Trim
4. Prime
5. Powder
6. Bullet (MrBulletFeeder)
7. Seat Bullet
and get everything in one toolhead for one pass through the 1050?
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What other dies would you put on it? What dies do you use?
1. Resize/Deprime
2. Priming
3. Powder Measure
4. Seat/Crimp
Wouldn't you have to trim it too? Just trying to understand how the BFR is supposed to work as a 4 station 50BMG version of the 550B.
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Any of you fellas own one of these? It's the only Dillon press I can't find a solid video review of on youtube.
Wondering what sets this big fella apart from all the other 50 BMG presses out there.
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How long would it take to convert a 223 set up 1050 with MrBulletFeeder to 9mm? 20 minutes?
I'd like to reload a lot of 223 and 9mm so I'm almost tempted to save up for 2 1050s... lol
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Is this possible?
Deprime/FL Resize .223 brass on a Dillon 550B, Trim on a Giraud, clean the brass to remove lube, and then...
On the 1050, Have it set up to
1. Swage
2. Prime
3. Powder
4. Seat Bullet
5. Crimp (if applicable)
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What are your thoughts on RCBS? I'm leaning towards getting the Pro Chucker 7 and a AmmoMaster 2 for .50BMG and .338 Lapua loading.
There is a pretty in depth review of the Pro Chucker 5, which is the 5 station version of the 7, on AR15.com. It seems to be a great press in about every way except for the primer slider design. It seems to be designed to fail and breaks a lot. Other than that I really like many of the features on it. The big downside is they dont have a casefeeder for it right now, Im sure they will, but at what price? The Pro Chuckers are already pretty expensive.
Ya, just wish there was a bigger consensus on how it stacks against a Dillon 550 or 650.
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Why exactly does he need another toolhead to prep 223 brass?
Doesn't he have a trimmer already? Can't he just trim everything then send it through the 1050? Or does the 1050 not have enough stations?
You size the case before you trim. So one head would be used to de-cap and size the brass, then off to the Giraud to trim. The second head would be for loading (and swaging).
I would imagine an RT-1500 trimmer would be added to the .223 trim head if convenience would be an issue. The Giraud would then be reserved for precision rifle trimming duty.
Oh, ok. So if he got the RT-1500 Trimmer to be added to a .223 trim head, he would still need two tool heads, correct? For some reason I remember some sales guy demonstrating loading a .223 from start to end on a 1050. Guess he must have already decapped, resized, and trimmed the brass? A bit misleading lol.
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Why exactly does he need another toolhead to prep 223 brass?
Doesn't he have a trimmer already? Can't he just trim everything then send it through the 1050? Or does the 1050 not have enough stations?
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Just how long does it take to convert a 9mm to .223?
Those are the two calibers I shoot thousands of each month. Wondering just how long and tedious a caliber change would really take.
And would it take just a little more time to change it to something like .45ACP or .308? Because with the price of caliber changes, it may be best to just get a 650 or 550 for calibers I won't reload as often.
Age of 650 Design
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
how old is the 1050?
Always wondered how they chose the names. 1050, 650, and 550 just seem so... arbitrary.