RickT
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Posts posted by RickT
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We have 5 of the same gun (we sold 1). If it's the CA version which I believe is the only one that SA makes definitely swap out the mainspring housing and go with something in the 17-19 lb. range. We pair a 19 with 9 lb. recoil springs. Our firing pin stops have a radius so that may put our guns more in the 19 lb. range. Also, way back in time we starting using standard steel firing pins with standard (Extra Power versus XX). Be sure you get the firing pin for a Springfield - different tip OD.
That 19/9 combination in a broken in gun will cycle down to the point where I can watch the cases barely clear the ejection port and fall to the ground.
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Dillon 1050 with a Mark VII, well past 150K rounds and these failures are new to me. The two on the left are an F.C. and Xtreme case, probably range pickups. My resizer left a very sharp lip on the bottom of the case. Possibly this was bulged brass, not an issue with my press.
The one on the right is an S3 case. I didn't even know these existed, but the upper component jammed in the resizer and the lower component fell off. Someone must be actually using these things. I had to remove the sizing die so I could pound out that upper part with a brass rod. I'll just pitch "nickel" cases from now on. Learn something new almost every day.
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The CMMG is a bit different using an AR ejector, but as it turns out it appears that the extractor pivot holes have been ovalized, perhaps due to lack of lubrication. This would really effect the engagement between the extractor claw and rim. I've stripped and cleaned the bolt and will install a new extractor.
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I've got a decent number of 145RN and some 147FP in Bayou and Acme. I'll load up 200 with SP and give those a try. I'd like to go 500 rounds without taking the bolt apart, but it's no big deal with the jig for taking the tension off the ejector retaining pin. It's amazing how dirty that channel can get. The WSF is fine for my 1911 until used up. It's dirty at soft loads, but actually cleans up easily. Of course I won't run out of powder if primers don't come back in stock
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I'm running an 8" barrel CMMG PCC. I had hoped to use up several pounds of WSF, but the powder is pretty dirty and tends to foul the ejector spring (it's an AR implementation). I've also got plenty of SP and can use any coated bullet weight. Also, so little recoil that I can run up the the max; the gun is actually flatter with stouter loads. It's easy enough to make some test loads, but I wonder if anyone has anecdotal or better info as to which end of the bullet weight spectrum would tend to be cleaner using SP. FWIW the rifle is ok up to +P+ so I'm not concerned about going to max regular loads.
I have loaded tens of thousands of 9mm for our 1911s and already have a 1050 powder die calibrated for that powder. I will run through some of the WSF in the 1911 in any case.
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I've been using my Mark VII/1050 for more than 4 years with at least 150K rounds made. This am I could not get the display to start up. Fortunately, there is a reset hole on the back and pressing that simultaneous with the power on button started things up. No idea what caused this, but thought I'd post as an FYI.
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Best you will find on the interweb courtesy DocGKR:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?4337-Service-Caliber-Handgun-Duty-and-Self-Defense-Ammo
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?4328-Basic-Wound-Ballistic-Terminal-Performance-Facts
There are many ammo related ongoing threads, but this is a great starting point.
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If you use the same bays every practice use multi-color surveyor's whiskers to mark the target position. One color for each stage. (provided you have permission of the range owner/club)
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On 1/11/2021 at 11:08 AM, bwikel said:
There are a few common issues with the CMMG RDB that could be causing your issues of extraction/ejection.
- Your extractor spring is weak - I only run extra power extractor springs (I change them annually or every 5k, whichever comes first), they are one coil longer and you don't need all the hokie o-rings to make them work.
- Your extractor may be damaged or full or carbon. When you clean your bolt take a metal pick to the extractor to assure there is no carbon build up on the hook.
- You ejector spring is weak or dirty. If you have never pulled the ejector it is likely full of carbon and causing the spring to bind or lock up. I also run extra power ejector springs and ultrasonic clean the stripped bolt or pull the spring to remove all the carbon.
- If you over lube your bolt it will just get dirty faster. Only run oil on the contact points where the bolt shows wear.
By the looks of your pics the bolt is losing the empty case before the ejector has a chance to kick it out. I would start by replacing the extractor spring and detail cleaning the extractor.
I'll double down on this. Experienced FTE with what I characterize has my competition PCC. Observed the following:
1. The bolt, itself, was gummy. That can't be a good thing. I do clean after every range session or two, but I'm clearly overlubing. You don't need much lube for a 200 round range session.
2. Disassembled and cleaned the bolt: lots of buildup
3. The ejector spring was about 10% shorter than a new MK10 spring. I'm going to reassembly with the used spring; based on the general condition of the bolt it's just as likely that the FTE were caused by buildup rather than the spring, itself.
Results: I ran 60 rounds through the SBR today as configured above (bolt thoroughly cleaned, lightly lubed, and the shortened ejector spring retained). At this point I'm inclined to think the 10% ejector spring shortening is not to blame for the FTE. I did find buildup under the extractor hook and removed same.
I am trying to use up a large amount of WSF in my reloads and experimenting with both 125gr and 147gr bullets. WSF is not the cleanest and if the dirt buildup persists I'll return to SP, but I hate to see 12+ lbs. of WSF just sitting in the cabinet from 3 years ago. The suppressed HD SBR will only see low round counts of factory ammo.
I have a US cleaner, but with pipe cleaners and such you can clean the bolt pretty thoroughly. I'd suggest anyone with and CMMG invest in the simple tool for R&R of the ejector pin, but that's just me.
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Or, get/build a CMMG upper and use Endomags. No need to use a magwell conversion and the Endomags run 100%. If you're a Glock guy the magwell conversion might make the most sense: your call.
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Here's the good news. I wanted to buy some spare ejector pins. Found a vendor, Bexar, that was selling for $0.25 each. Bought ten and I think the shipping was $3. Who on the interweb sells anything for 25 cents? I do have a jig for R&R of the ejector; looking like a pretty good spend. (I could have gone to McMaster or similar, but not worth the trouble.
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On 12/12/2020 at 10:22 PM, Farmer said:
I really like my short heated vest since I can tuck it in behind the holster. That men's vest on the site, above, that has a heated neck is something I need to look into for next winter. I've learned since last winter to keep something around my neck; makes a big difference.
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On 11/2/2020 at 5:51 PM, Pluder said:
The gun was back at CMMG a few years ago. Is there any way to know which spring is in it? by weight or color code?
I doubt it is a magazine issue. I use Glock mags.
I'm almost positive the MK10 ejector spring was introduced more recently. Just this last few weeks one of my CMMG SBRs went from 100% cycling to frequent FTE just from one shooting session to the next. Took out the ejector spring and it had shortend approximately 10% relative to a new Mk10 spring. Changed out the spring, tested and the gun ran 100%. I'm going to keep much better track of the number of rounds I'm putting through these guns. Some have suggested that 1000 rounds is about the maximum out of an ejector spring.
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I assume you have an RF100. If not, ignore my post. I only tighten the bolts by hand and they don't back out. Yes, the setting is slightly different with and without the cover, but change the rheostat until you are satisfied with the primer activity. Of course some primers (I only load SPP) are better than others. In my experience CCI work best, Winchester are OK and S&B I wouldn't recommend. I have loaded some Remington and the worked ok in the RF100 as I recall.
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Springfield 9mm 1911 for competition (SC) and HK P2000 in 9mm for carry.
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I'd go for it. If the shell plate is an issue you can buy an aftermarket one.
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My home defense PCC now mounts an Omega 9K suppressor. Rather than add some carrier weight I replaced the buffer on both PCC with the A5/RB5007 with Tubbs 556 buffer spring. Every ammo I've tried has run 100% and I understand that the same buffer configuration is fine for 5.56. Seems softer than using the stock carbine buffer, but I've already converted both lowers so I won't have a real seat-of-the-pants comparison. Not that I need a backup to my competition PCC, not being a serious competitor, but I will use a 3-lug suppressor mount on both rifles for flexibility.
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Privatize! If you're going to have "tracking" then get it right. Don't tell me my very small package will arrive by 9pm Thursday when it just got to Las Vegas in the early am hour. And, guess what, it's now in Denver CO which is in the wrong direction from Boise. You'd think I would at least get a delivery update immediately that says either a)going to show up on XXX or b) we don't have any idea when it's going to show up. But I take what comfort I can from the following:
"Your item arrived at our USPS facility in DENVER CO NETWORK DISTRIBUTION CENTER on December 17, 2020 at 3:22 pm.
The item is currently in transit to the destination." -
3 works near 100% using Hornady One Shot and a MB funnel that has been heavily used (150K rounds or more ). Initially I had a pretty good "thump" with that funnel and probably was using 4-5 so pre-polishing your funnel/expander is probably a good idea. Also, I'm generally running brass that has been shot multiple times since I recycle near 100% from practice.
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Update: Found several possibilities designed for duty belts which appear to work on our narrower competition belts. Cost is reasonable so I may give one of these a try.
Practicing for steel challenge with my 1911 I normally use 3 thin clothing layers including a heated vest in temperatures above 30 degrees with light wind. This works fine and I can use my normal double belt with the inner done in the belt loops. On a colder day I tried doing the double belt over a coat, but the only belt location that worked was actually above my pants belt, i.e. higher than normal. I couldn't draw reliably with the gun 2" higher than normal. I've got long legs and the belt is normally above my hip bone so any higher than that is really an issue.
I have a spare holster so I'm wondering if there is some sort of chest rig that would support a better holster placement, think "tactical" suspenders. I don't expect to draw at a warm weather speed (which isn't all that fast anyway), but I do want to achieve a consistent grip; otherwise, shooting stages is a waste of time.
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I use exclusively Tripp. Only downside is that when loading 10+1 the barney mag will sometimes strip and extra round when ejected.
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I'll add one thing to this 2 year old thread with your forbearance. I wear a heated vest over two thermal layers. The vest keeps things toasty and is thin enough and short enough to wear while shooting; I can tuck it in between my mag pouches/holster and shirt. The particular one I use has a 2+ hour battery on high, but I carry a spare battery. Best money I ever spent; still need a jacket when not shooting. I found DuluthFlex Fire Hose Relaxed Fit Cargo Work Pants work great. The fabric blocks wind with plenty of room for thermal tights if needed; these have become my go-to for just about every activity in the winter. The Mechanix Specialty 0.5mm gloves are excellent for actually shooting, but I'd like to find large mittens for between runs; mittens have gone the way of the Dodo.
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I have an 9mm SBR, but also have 22lr ammo that doesn't work in my wife's 22's. Are any clubs allowing 22's especially in these times of ammo and primer shortages? Do the rules support a non-comp entry?
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I believe all mine are Gen 2, but I'll take a look tomorrow. Looks like the Gen 3 follower is a mirror image? I do know with my suspected Gen 2s if I load on a closed bolt the top round will get scratched. Wonder if the modified follower helps with that? I just order 3 additional inserts from Mean Arms which I assume will be Gen 3. Interesting.
First Time I've Seen This
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
The cases were sized with an undersize die, same one I've been using for a long time. Just hadn't ever seen this before. Too bad I don't know what the cases looked lie before processing. I usual put 100 or so cases in a cardboard tray, quirt with case lube and shake. I'd have a fair chance of seeing a bulged case, but obviously didn't see these.