Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Terry44

Classified
  • Posts

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Terry44

  1. 21 minutes ago, Rnlinebacker said:

    Don't be afraid to slap him silly next time. We're not children and you're helping run the match while being conscious of the time constraints.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
     

    That's the correct answer.  A little reflection time face down in a dump barrel solves most of these kind of issues.  

     

    You either need to write a thorough WSB or you need to walk the stages with your ROs before the match.  If you choose neither, that's on the MD.  

  2. The most important thing about a 3gun shotgun is that it is reliable.  Quadloading .75 seconds faster than the next guy is not going to help you as much as continuously having to clear jams and malfunctions is going to hurt you.  

     

    The 1301 V1 is a solid reliable shotgun that does not need much care and cleaning to keep it running.  At 300 rounds, that gun is not even broken in yet and that sounds like a good price.  

     

    The earlier post about the difference in the manual of arms is correct.  I'm in the love it category but it is not for everyone. The location of the safety take some time getting used to and is always going to be slower than the traditional location.  Its designed for hunters and skeet shooters, not 3gunners.  

     

    The bolt catch release "death jam" is total Internet BS.  Never had it happen during practice or in a match and the ability to unload the tube without cycling through the chamber is something you will appreciate during dryfire practice.  You won't need or want the little plastic piece they sell to prevent it.  That's just someone trying to make a buck on a problem that does not exist.

     

    As long as this 1301 is is reasonable shape, I don't think you can go wrong at $650.  I would like to know how a shotgun goes through 2 owners with only 300 rounds though.  That's a question I would want the answer to before buying.  

     

    You did not mention if it was a 21 or 24 inch.  24 is better in my personal unqualified opinion.  Personally I'd like to have a 26 if they made one.  

     

  3. I built my first rifle last year.  Learned more about how an AR works than I ever thought I would.   I have been using it for 3gun the last year or so and been through 3 or 4 RnGs with it.  I'm very happy with it and it is exactly what I wanted down to the last detail.  Would I do it again?  No.  If I had it to do over again, I would have just bought the JP version closest to what I wanted.  To me, it was just not worth the time putting together the list of parts and figuring out what parts will work with what.  What safety works with what trigger.  What gas block will fit under what handguard.  For some, building ARs is a second hobby and that's great.  But for me, I'll just buy a JP next time.  

     

    That's my 2 cents anyway.  

  4. On 2/11/2019 at 4:48 PM, RaylanGivens said:

    I have a Shockbottle 9mm SuperMatch gauge...  I set it flat on the table and drop the rounds into it...  After it is full, I pick it up and sight down the top to check for high primers and rounds that don't slide down into the gauge and lay flat...  All the rounds should be flat along the top of the gauge.

     

    If any rounds protrude above the gauge, I press down on then...  If they push down easily, I shoot them...  If they are hard to press down, or hit a hard spot and don't go down, they go to practice ammo...  If any primers are too high, those rounds go to practice ammo.

     

    Shockbottle also makes a 9mm flip-tray that is easier and faster than using two MTM boxes to flip the ammo...  Very handy.

     

     

     

    You have a link to this flip tray?  I did not see it on their site.

  5. 29 minutes ago, bigedp51 said:

    The ejector and firing pin pushes the case forward until the case shoulder contacts the chambers shoulder. Meaning the case mouth will be at the same point in the chamber when indexing off the case shoulder. When trimming and indexing off the base of the case the case mouth location in the chamber will vary depending on shoulder location.

     

    This is what I was thinking but I don't have the experience to know if that was correct or if I was missing something. 

     

    The reason I ask is everything I read talks about indexing based on OAL is best.  But all of the higher end trimmers I see on the market now index off the shoulder, the WFT, the Henderson Precision, the Giraud, the new Lyman that is coming out.  So, it has me wondering, is the general line of thinking on this is changing. 

     

     

  6. For trimming 223 brass, is there any advantage or disadvantage to trimming brass with a trimmer that indexes off the neck like the Frankford Arsenal case prep over a

    lathe style like the Hornady  cam lock trimmer that trims based on overall all length?

     

    I'm new to reloading for the rifle and I'm looking at the Frankford Arsenal for case prep.  But it is a little different than most in that it indexes off the neck.  Is that something

    that I need to stay away from?  

     

  7. I just carry a back up M&P.  They are not that much and if my regular M&P went down, I would not want to take the time during a match to start knocking out pins to replace a trigger spring or something.  I'd rather fix it at home when I can take my time and not cause any more damage or loose some tiny part in the gravel or hotel room carpet.

     

    As far as routine maintenance, I replaced all the springs and the striker at about 10K rounds.  No, problems before or since.  Probably do it again at 20K since the amount of crud around the sear housing after 10K was a little disturbing. 

  8. On 9/16/2018 at 10:43 PM, Pardini said:

    I've been considering this too. My thought was to make and adaptor, mount a ELS plate to a QLS fork.  The QLS fork would go into the QLS holster plate with the ELS plate attached, then the shell caddy would attach to that. 

    I'd like to get some feedback on this if you get it together.  Seems like the right idea. 

  9. On 8/23/2018 at 10:23 AM, Ray_Z said:

    I have both the 1.0 and the 2.0 in 5". I'm glad I got the 2.0. It just feels better. Only problem I've got is the color. If I drop it in the dirt I'll never find it. Checked with the guys at S&W at the NRA show.They said it's scheduled for a change in 2 years.

    Are you saying 2 more years before we can get a black 5" 2.0?

  10. On 2/18/2018 at 7:44 PM, TortugaNH said:

    At SHOT show Beretta showed off a re-design of the bolt release latch on the 1301 Tactical. Has anyone heard about that migrating to the Comp? Beretta's website doesn't say anything about it.

     

    Redesigned how?

  11. On 2/26/2018 at 5:18 PM, CharlieD said:

    Also, I recommend the JP 2 piece gas block on a pin and weld barrel.  

     

    Which handguard did you use with the JP 2 piece block and did you have to remove any material to make it fit?

    We are talking about the JPGS-9D correct?

  12. The metal in the center of those pucks is really soft.  Any home depot drill bit and a cordless drill will work.  Stick a piece of wooden dowel in the comp as a stop for the drill bit.  I ordered extra pucks too but did not need them.  I keep them in my range bag in case one ever falls out at a match, but that has not been an issue so far.  Probably 1500 rounds in. 

×
×
  • Create New...