Terry44

I did the same thing. I sent mine to C&H Precision to get removed.

I have several M&Ps and have only had an issue with 147 RN blue bullets.

As far as I can tell, the only 5" that comes in black is the Spec series and the Performance Center version. The Performance Center has a ported barrel and fiber optic sights. The Spec had Tritium.

Can you describe what you mean by that a little more? Lowering the carrier catch lifter?

That's the correct answer. A little reflection time face down in a dump barrel solves most of these kind of issues. You either need to write a thorough WSB or you need to walk the stages with your ROs before the match. If you choose neither, that's on the MD.

I'll take one.

The most important thing about a 3gun shotgun is that it is reliable. Quadloading .75 seconds faster than the next guy is not going to help you as much as continuously having to clear jams and malfunctions is going to hurt you. The 1301 V1 is a solid reliable shotgun that does not need much care and cleaning to keep it running. At 300 rounds, that gun is not even broken in yet and that sounds like a good price. The earlier post about the difference in the manual of arms is correct. I'm in the love it category but it is not for everyone. The location of the safety take some time getting used to and is always going to be slower than the traditional location. Its designed for hunters and skeet shooters, not 3gunners. The bolt catch release "death jam" is total Internet BS. Never had it happen during practice or in a match and the ability to unload the tube without cycling through the chamber is something you will appreciate during dryfire practice. You won't need or want the little plastic piece they sell to prevent it. That's just someone trying to make a buck on a problem that does not exist. As long as this 1301 is is reasonable shape, I don't think you can go wrong at $650. I would like to know how a shotgun goes through 2 owners with only 300 rounds though. That's a question I would want the answer to before buying. You did not mention if it was a 21 or 24 inch. 24 is better in my personal unqualified opinion. Personally I'd like to have a 26 if they made one.

I like the idea of a adjustable rear sight but the fiber optics on the rear would need to go.

I built my first rifle last year. Learned more about how an AR works than I ever thought I would. I have been using it for 3gun the last year or so and been through 3 or 4 RnGs with it. I'm very happy with it and it is exactly what I wanted down to the last detail. Would I do it again? No. If I had it to do over again, I would have just bought the JP version closest to what I wanted. To me, it was just not worth the time putting together the list of parts and figuring out what parts will work with what. What safety works with what trigger. What gas block will fit under what handguard. For some, building ARs is a second hobby and that's great. But for me, I'll just buy a JP next time. That's my 2 cents anyway.

You will load 9 in the tube at the preload table. Then at the load and make ready command, chamber the 9th round so you start with 8 plus 1 if that makes sense. A 10 round tube will be fine. ALS holster was good choice. The nub mod is a worthwhile add on for it.

You have a link to this flip tray? I did not see it on their site.

This is what I was thinking but I don't have the experience to know if that was correct or if I was missing something. The reason I ask is everything I read talks about indexing based on OAL is best. But all of the higher end trimmers I see on the market now index off the shoulder, the WFT, the Henderson Precision, the Giraud, the new Lyman that is coming out. So, it has me wondering, is the general line of thinking on this is changing.

For trimming 223 brass, is there any advantage or disadvantage to trimming brass with a trimmer that indexes off the neck like the Frankford Arsenal case prep over a lathe style like the Hornady cam lock trimmer that trims based on overall all length? I'm new to reloading for the rifle and I'm looking at the Frankford Arsenal for case prep. But it is a little different than most in that it indexes off the neck. Is that something that I need to stay away from?

I was hoping it would come out of this years Shot show. But it does not look like that happened.

One word of advise here. If you go searching for pro grip, liquid grip or what ever on Amazon, use an private browser window. Otherwise you will end up with ads for pole dancing gear on your Facebook.

What's the case volume like with Sport Pistol? For those that have used it, is it closer to VV320/ WSF or low like Titegroup?

I just carry a back up M&P. They are not that much and if my regular M&P went down, I would not want to take the time during a match to start knocking out pins to replace a trigger spring or something. I'd rather fix it at home when I can take my time and not cause any more damage or loose some tiny part in the gravel or hotel room carpet. As far as routine maintenance, I replaced all the springs and the striker at about 10K rounds. No, problems before or since. Probably do it again at 20K since the amount of crud around the sear housing after 10K was a little disturbing.

Same here..

I use a weighted blue training magazine. Feel and weight are the same and no need to worry about dummy rounds. https://www.amazon.com/Rings-Blue-Training-Weighted-Magazine/dp/B007RJSYPA I also have an unweighted one to represent a empty mag. This also allows me to use a chamber block so I know it is unloaded and there is no way to chamber a round. Dummy or loaded.

Has anyone seen a round count for this match? Just wondering how much ammo to bring.

I'd like to get some feedback on this if you get it together. Seems like the right idea.

Are you saying 2 more years before we can get a black 5" 2.0?

Redesigned how?

Which handguard did you use with the JP 2 piece block and did you have to remove any material to make it fit? We are talking about the JPGS-9D correct?

The metal in the center of those pucks is really soft. Any home depot drill bit and a cordless drill will work. Stick a piece of wooden dowel in the comp as a stop for the drill bit. I ordered extra pucks too but did not need them. I keep them in my range bag in case one ever falls out at a match, but that has not been an issue so far. Probably 1500 rounds in.