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Balakay

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Posts posted by Balakay

  1. I have used both for a lot of rounds.  While I wouldn't necessarily change from a 650 if it is working well for you, the 750 is significantly smoother.  There is much less powder spillage loading 11g of powder in 9mm.  I prefer the primer system in the 750.  The rotary system on the 650 is dependent on a spring that I tended to wear out every 5-10K rounds.  When the spring wears, the primer disc starts to not advance properly and will require manual adjustment. The 750 priming system is linear and as long as the primer track is clean, much less prone to missing primers

  2. 7 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

     

    I think that's unlikely, at least I would think this late in the game it might be really hard to pull off. 

     

    I assume there were no issues at 2 gun nats? If that went smoothly, that would be more reason to assume it's not moving. 

    You have 4 months, lol....I realize we aren't dealing with rocket surgeons on the BOD but I suspect there could be a venue change without a whole lot of drama.

  3. 37 minutes ago, Stevetford said:

    I just made what i feel is a great investment in some Ben Stoeger books and some of his 1/3 and 1/6 scaled dry fire targets. Reading through his Dryfire reloaded book, I see no mention of target height. I'm all set up in my basement using stands that I made, currently have the shoulders of the 1/3 scaled USPSA targets set at 5 foot just like most of the qualifiers are. This just doesn't look right to me. Is it possible the height is scaled similar to the way the distance is scaled?

    You would not put a 1/6 scaled target 10 inches off the ground. 
     

    i use mostly 1/2 and 1/3 scaled targets. I make no adjustments for height

  4. 1 hour ago, X5SigChris said:

    This is pretty accurate. The guys that want a full custom know who to call. They also know their wallet is going to be significantly lighter. It appears to me that atlas, PT, etc. fills that “middle” void well of having a gun that is tighter all around. 

    Atlas Chaos costs more than my soon to be delivered SVI.  It is a non-custom gun with a custom price.  That is not to say it doesn't shoot well but it hardly occupies the "middle void" of pricing

  5. MOST IMPORTANT: a pre-Zero'd optic

     

    Assuming that you are shooting a 2011, there are many potential failure points.  Some will be fixable, others impossible.  I agree with a prefitted thumb safety, especially if ambi. Pin sets and all the little parts are cheap insurance. Springs should be changed regularly especially before a big match. 

     

    However, I would strongly reconsider getting a backup gun. The last thing you are going to want to do is detail strip your filthy gun at the safe table and try to insert the sear pin quickly. If you care enough to travel to majors, it is a necessity.  You don't need  to have a 7K carbon copy.  Get something used that mimics the weight/feel of your current gun.  Although not identical,  a plastic grip with a heavy magwell might be close enough to your steel grip.  Get the same length barrel and Popple hole configuration.  Make sure that your ammo chrono's similarly thru both guns

  6. Not sure how much reloading experience you have but from the looks of your ammo, you need to start from scratch. The amount of bell is ridiculous 

     

    Yes, the MBF powder funnel/expander might be slightly better than the Dillon (I’ve used both and they both make perfectly fine ammo). The funnel is not the issue. 
     

    there is a fundamental flaw in your reloading process that needs to be diagnosed and corrected. Remove every die and reinstall one by one as described above in this thread. Try to isolate the problem
     

     

  7. 2 hours ago, Maxwell914 said:

    I purchased one of the high dollars open guns from a in my mind reputable brand....... after spending a couple grand on a pistol 

     

     

    Unfortunately, if by a couple you mean "2", you don't have a high dollar open gun. 

    I have had crappy service with truly expensive blasters, too.  Eventually, it gets to the point where you to find someone local, fix it yourself or be prepared to wait for a long time

  8. 1 minute ago, Racinready300ex said:

    If the goal is save money, turtle targets are a little smaller and easier to ship. You can also talk to your club maybe buy a case when they're making a order to get any bulk discount they might get.

     

    You can also get those replacement centers I think they're called. Basically is a paper target that you staple over your target and it covers the A/C area so you get more life out of the cardboard behind it. You can make targets last a vary long time. 

    or get some used targets after your next local match

  9. 16 minutes ago, OpenshooterAclass4lyfe said:

    There’s no advantage in that other then making picking up the brass easier    There’s no denying that there’s a slight mechanical advantage to running 38sc vs 9major.   “Worry about the gun behaving differently”   So having a gun that shoots softer (supposedly more reliably) and the dot tracks better would be something I would have to  worry about?     

    I'm not going to get into the 9 vs 38 debate.  2 of my Open guns shoot both.  However.......most of the people who claim the big differences in the 2 calibers are likely shooting  powders in 9mm that would never be used in 38.  There is a big difference in feel between 9mm with Autocomp vs. 38 with N105.  

     

    The "slight mechanical advantage" to using 38sc has not translated to a performance or reliability advantage in my hands.  I  have a hard time distinguishing the difference under match conditions.  (I use AA#7 for 9mm)

  10. 2 minutes ago, OpenshooterAclass4lyfe said:

    All I know is I’ve heard it from two different people now.   I have no way to dispute or prove the claims.    I do know some people using that powder with success so far  🤷‍♂️

    use the search function and read about AA7

    FWIW I have personally shot >100K rounds of 115s with AA7. 

  11. 12 hours ago, Posvar said:

    Just pass the increased price on to the buyer and get it done in a month. What hasn’t been passed to the consumer lately? I’d pay an extra $200-300 to get it four months sooner “if” the coater was the hold up. 

    They could throw in a free locking block

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