boo radley

As another data point, I went through something similar recently changing from a grip in which the strong hand thumb rested below the safety, to one in which I "ride" the safety. It took me about 6 weeks, but I'm certainly not a super-experienced practical shooter (not sure this is significant, in this instance), nor did I do as much dry-fire practice as I ought (which *is* significant, in this instance). Over this 6 week period, I shot 3 matches -- during the first, I was right back to the old, familiar grip, and I tried changing it in the match, and this was a big mistake. Second match, a week later, and I simply didn't worry about the grip. I think I *mostly* had the the thumb in the correct spot, but maybe not, on other stages. Third match, I again didn't worry about it, and things were basically grooved. IMveryHO, it's like changing any habit, and it's just a matter of time. Really feeling comfortable with different golf grip, for example, took me 6 months.

Heh.* Man, after finishing a match, is complemented by his wife on his performance: Him -- [says]: Honey, you don't understand. Yeah, I came in just below 8th place, but I made two -- no THREE -- mistakes in the third stage, right? You saw how I stuck myself at slide-lock in the third array, which I engaged in the wrong direction? Let me get some paper, and I'll draw it out.... Him -- [thinks]: I've been doing this for 3 years now, and she still doesn't understand a damn thing about field course strategy.... Her -- [says]: Dear, you still seemed very fast! How good you're becoming. Her -- [thinks]: That haircut looked really good on Cindy. I need to ask her who did it... * this is NOT gender specific -- reverse the roles as needed. And in good fun, only.

Thx all -- I don't mind buying used, in fact I'd like to, but I'd rather take the time and make a wise purchase, first.

Someone's selling a Safariland belt and holster and some mag holders. The only problem is the holster is something called an "SM6" and designed for 6" slides, and my 1911 has a 5" slide. Can this holster be made to work? I'd like to upgrade from a Walmart leather belt, and paddle Fobus holster and paddle Fobus mag holder(s). They're uncomfortable, and I'd like more options spacing out the mags. Right now I'm shooting a 1911 in L10, but don't want to rule out other options, and would want a "system". thx

Strange -- I think there's a pretty weird, and unnecessary, psychological battle going on, here.... Seems to me, one of the really nice things about this sport is the objective nature of the scoring. Help me understand: if you *win* the match, or the division, or whatever, and are still disappointed, no one else probably wants to hear it, and you should find tougher competition, so that winning -- despite any flaws in your performance -- will be a significant accomplishment. If you don't win or achieve whatever goal you set, any comments about a "great performance" are most likely soothing words designed to console, and you should accept them with tact, and in the spirit given. Obviously the performance wasn't that great, or the results would reflect it!

I can't imagine *not* caring about winning, rankings, beating peers, crushing opponents, etc., etc. The only problem is, I'm new to this sport, and terrible, and the only competitor I leave reeling in humiliation after a match is...myself. I am in the process, though, of really changing my outlook - not that I'm losing my competitive fire, which is after all, why I started shooting IPSC - but refocusing in a productive manner. It was *not* productive paying attention to the times/points that another shooter in my squad, whom I considered "better" but not impossibly so, was turning in after a stage. It was not productive flying around, shooting as fast as I *thought* I was seeing, and turning in mikes, multiple hits on no-shoots, D's, etc., and not even being fast. After hitting rock-bottom, like an alcoholic, in subsequent matches, I've started to really see what I needed to see, which feels like an eternity, but I'm finally getting 90%+ of the points, and shooting an entire stage with no D's, nor dead hostages. <sigh> I'd like to say this was some sort of epiphany, but it wasn't -- instead it's a little depressing, because I realize how much work and time it will take to see what I need to see, only a LOT faster. It puts winning in perspective. I still can't see ignoring the leader-board, or not worrying about match-results, nor trying to win in my division, etc., but I'm resigned to acknowleging my current level of ability, and reconciling a desire to "win" with the practice required.

Hi Joe -- I have not tried 147's, simply because I can't find them locally, and keep forgetting to order a hundred, or so, from Midway. I've tried damn near everything else, though (except for changing the powder). I believe some people have G34's that a extremely accurate. From talking to a lot of people at matches (many of whom have after-market barrels!), I believe *most* people have some that are "reasonably" accurate. In my case, I think something's really wrong -- it's not what I consider "reasonably" accurate: it's simply not grouping. That's a legitimate question, certainly, and it *is* hard. Given that some of the best pistol shooters in the world are on this board, I'm hesitant to claim much, but I can usually shoot good groups. My best pistol is a stock Kimber Custom II -- with cast bullets, she'll shoot an inch at 25y. *IF* I'm up for it. "On demand" is below 2", and usually I'll have 3 in a cluster, one outside, and one flyer, but it's certainly more accurate than I am. I have spent evenings, doing nothing but shooting this Glock from a rest. I get patterns, as I think I said in another thread, that look like a '5' on a die -- all over the place, with no consistency, and I don't bother measuring them. One thing I noticed tonight: the underside of the frame around the muzzle, is making hard contact -- above the crown there's a noticeable void. In other words, the end of the barrel isn't centered in the opening -- possibly that's normal?

Where does the metal need to be removed from the barrel? With what tools? Is this a DIY (honestly) for someone with extremely basic mechanical skills? I'm this ---> <---- close to saying, the hell with it, and selling my Glock 34, and concentrating exclusively on my 1911's. The accuracy of my factory G-34 has been very disappointing despite trying many different combinations of VV 320 and bullet weight/types. The only thing that groups (and it's an unstellar 2-3" @25y) is CCI Blazer 115gr. My options are: buy something like a Storm Lake barrel ($110, or so), and hope it helps. Buy a BarSto, and hope I can fit it. Buy a BarSto and pay someone locally to fit it (overnight mailing to a FFL adds another $50, if I send it out). And it seems to me, if I want any kind of realistic chance at putting this issue to rest, I need to get the barrel professionally fitted, no? The thing is, I'm starting to really like the Glock, especially with the new sights I put in. It's simple light, fast to point....I like not having to "top-off" the 11th round. I like being able to strip and clean it in about 3 minutes. I also really like the G-34's controls -- I find both the magazine and slide release *very* ergonomic. At some level, I'm tempted to get a 35 to go along with the 34, because going back and forth between my 1911 Kimber and the 34 is beginning to bother me. But the accuracy issue troubles me. <sigh>

Thx all -- as I figured, there isn't a clear answer; it's a matter of weighing the advantage gained from closing distance, vs. time lost by going slightly out of the way, or needing to stop, shoot, and start moving again. I bring this up only because -- and maybe a 10-yard gap is a bad example -- it seems easier to shoot tight shots from a standing draw, where I've been staring at the target, than from run-stop-shoot. Mistral -- I agree, if it's possible to shoot it moving, that's the best of all. I learned an interesting lesson not so long ago, just by watching a M shooter on our squad. There were three arrays -- left, center, right, and some steel short-center. Only rule was you had to shoot the steel before moving. Most of us would shoot the steel, then aim at the targets behind the steel -- about a 25-yard+ shot, before moving (you had to move up and to the right and left to get at the other targets). This guy hit the steel, then immediately moved, got the targets on the far right, and on his way to the targets on the left, shot those in the center from only a couple yards away, w/out hardly slowing down, as he ran by them. In hindsight: "of course!"

That's what I found -- I centered teh rear sight as well as I could, and it's really damn close. Maybe 3" to the left at 25 yards, and an inch or two high (don't care) with 115's. I tried tapping it to correct this, but realized without a special tool, I'm not going to get the precision needed, and t'hell with it, though it still bugs me. I must say -- I really, *really* like this sight picture, and don't find the FO front overwhelming, as, say, I did when I painted my Kimber with flourescent orange model airplane paint. But good point on the brass rod - I need one anyway for squib loads (knock on wood).

A situation its seems I'm seeing a lot in matches, is a stage where I'm faced with several arrays -- let's say "A" and "B". I cannot shoot "B" from the starting position, and have to move 10, 20 yards, or so, to engage it. But in moving from the starting position, I will also get closer to the targets in array "A" -- does this make any sense? In other words, from the starting box, let's say I have a shot of 20 yards to targets in "A", and these targets are tight -- protected by no-shoots. But if I stop on the way to "B", I'll only have a 10 yard shot. What is the text-book way to handle this? I thought it would be smarter to take the closer shot, since I have to move anyway, but then I was watching other shooters do the same thing, and it looked...slow. Possibly slower than drawing, getting the sight picture needed for the longer shot, and then moving directly to engage B. Just curious. Tx!

I'm not sure what disease has struck me, considering I'm well on my way to being a "D-class" IPSC shooter, but the notion of 3-gun, or multi-gun matches, is suddenly seeming like a rational interest. If, say, I *were* going to try 'em, I'd need a shotgun, and lo! I have a shotgun -- an old Remington 870 Express, that I used to shoot quite a bit, messing around with clays, on doves... Anyway -- this shotgun has a 26" vented-rib barrel, and a single bead sight on the end. What kind of features (accessories) would I need to consider? It ain't the lightest shotgun. Would a 20" barrel help? I see some are available for about $119, new, with rifle-sights. I hate spending that kind of money, if it's not necessary. Second question -- ammo carriers. I've seen some pictures of shell holders that mount on the side of the receiver, and are especially useful for weak hand reloading..... What kind of madness is this??? Does everyone in 3-gun know this technique?? The only way I've ever reloaded my 870 is to unshoulder it, flip it on its side, or upside down, and shove shells in its belly. Would I be OK in local matches, simply loading from a hunting vest with shell loops? Thx! Man. 3-gun seems like a wet-dream for the firearms accessories mfg'rs. I haven't even gotten to the rifle part, yet. <sigh>

Heh -- I saw this, this morning, and decided to try it at the range. On the Sierra website, there's a bit better explanation: http://www.sierrafirearms.com/Dot%20drill.htm *Damn* that's a tough un. I tried three times, burning up most of a pack of those "See and Shoot" 3" target stickers, and can't say I shot it clean, once. I'd get impatient, and rush.

Rick - the load I was using (for the 115gr Ranier plated RN's, anyway) was 4.1 or 4.2gr of V V n320, with a COL of 1.142, from memory. Felt very soft. I really wasn't trying to get mouse farts -- I just picked a load in the middle of VV's chart, and they list this exact bullet. I should work up some loads with different powder levels, no doubt, but another problem is one of time and concentration. 2 different bullets x 3 different powder loads x 3 5-shot groups each, starts getting up there, before the focus level wanders, IMO. Anyway. Clearly, there is some ju-ju with Blazers and the G34. For one thing, that was the only loading that really *grouped*, and if I threw out the flyer, the remaining 4 were close to an inch in size. The other loads were scattered -- looked like the "5" side on a die. I'm really on the fence with this pistol. At some level, it makes sense to just order a couple thousand rounds of CCI Blazer, and shoot Production. I only have two (terrible) qualifiers in, for L-10, so I'm not married to a particular division. Or, keep going, and order different bullet types, (zero, MG, etc.), and weights, and find something I can load that will shoot tight groups -- I'm sure I can, now that the Blazer's proved *some* load will group. Or, say the hell with it, sell it for a 2nd .45, and go back to concentrating on shooting my Kimber, which *does* group amazingly, with both 200 LSWC's and 230 LRN's. I have a hard-enough time getting my A's, and the penalty of shooting minor...<shudder> I like shooting them both, but at some point I'm going to start thrashing.

Eh...Went out tonight, with 4 different 9mm loads: CCI Blazer 115's, WWB 115's, Ranier 115's loaded myself, and 124gr Winchester FMJ's loaded myself. 25 yards, holding off a simple block rest. The best, by far, was the CCI Blazer with all three groups well under 3" -- 2.2", 2.3", 2.8", for around a 2.5" average group. Everything else pretty much sucked - WWB averaged in the high 4", and my Ranier 115gr plated bullets averaged close to 4" in group size. The 124gr. Winchester FMJ's were all over the place, but I blame this on the loading -- way too soft. In fact, I think I'm being way too conservative loading the Ranier's, too, with VV320 at 4.2gr. The Glock barely moves off the rest. Maybe the pistol needs bullets going faster to shoot well? Although, that wouldn't explain the WWB grouping so poorly. But I feel better seeing the CCI's shoot reasonably well. I wanted to try some 147's but couldn't find 'em.

Good information, everyone, thx. Dillon -- that's excellet that I could reuse the strong mount, if I did decide to upgrade, just by removing the top-plate. I'm still really on the fence....OTO(ne)H, if it ain't broke, why spend the extra $? It takes me about exactly 15 minutes/100, which includes verifying a powder drop or two, and clearing the odd jam, so I'm not sure I'd get much more production out of the 550B. OTOH, man...if I were ever to shoot 3-gun, being able to load .223...

Couple quick questions: If I were to move from the SDB to a 550B, would I be able to reuse the Strong Mount for the SDB? I assume it's different, since it's priced differently, but is it only a matter of drilling a few new holes? Dillon quotes a slightly higher rate (500-600) rpm with the 550B over the SDB (400-500). Where does this speed increase come from? The 550B seems taller -- is it any wider, in terms of lateral space? I have the SDB over towards one edge of my bench, so I have room for a general work area....Would a 550B have the same approximate footprint? Thx -- about two months ago, I bought a SDB here, and it's been great. Only two complaints: first, sometimes I won't seat a shell in properly in station1 (or it will wiggle loose), and the resulting jam, and auto-index, when I release the arm, really slows me down, since I have to pull the buttons, and shuffle the shells around....second, I notice I can load 9mm significantly faster on the SDB than I can .45acp. I think this is because 9mm is much smaller, and I have more space for my fingers. From what I understand, the 550B has more area around the shellplate? Just thinking out loud, about a possible move. Must say, the SDB has really been great, and being able to call Dillon on an 800 number, and actually speak to a tech, is terrific.

I have the double magazine carrier. It's pretty cheap -- the bottom screw fell out and was lost the first time I used it. Still it works ok, and is a lot more comfortable than the other Kydex carrier I have -- a Fobus -- which, if I'm not careful positioning the paddle, bites like a SOB, over a day of picking up brass, etc. Also have a Fobus Kydex holster, two, really, for my G34 and 1911, and I like it well enough, though again the paddle is uncomfortable. I need to spend some real money on this gear at some point, however -- I have a grand total of about $76 wrapped up in the two holsters and carriers, and another $12 for the stiffest leather belt WalMart sold. It's not that I'm cheap -- it's just that at my level, this stuff, though uncomfortable, *just* works well enough....

I would be delighted with 1.5" -> 2", from a bag @25yards, but I'm not even slightly close to this. I think I'm going to try to find a couple different brands/weights of ammo; if I can assure myself that at least some load shoots accurately I'll feel a lot better. My concern is, if I try a new barrel to solve the problem, I'll be closing in on $1000 for this pistol, considering I've added $90 of sights....If it's not the barrel, but the frame/slide fit....

Today I loaded up a bunch of Ranier plated 115gr RN bullets over 4.2gr of VV 320, and benched it at 25yards. The results were pretty rotten -- I'm all over a paper-plate I use as a target -- maybe 6-7" group? For a sanity check, I next tried some Winchester "Value-Pak" 115gr bullets, and they were *better* but not much so: maybe 5" group, with 2 or 3 clustered. Are 115gr bullets especially finicky in the G34? What kind of accuracy, in general are y'all seeing out of a factory barrel? Maybe I'm getting spoiled with 200gr SWC's out of a 1911, but I'm starting to get a bit concerned, since in the few weeks I've had this pistol, I've never felt it shot accurately. Thx

Very nice. When we can get away from judging our actions...that will allow us to just observe and be aware of what is going on. Then, we can picture the desired result. From there, the body usually can sort out the details...if we let it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What does that mean, exactly? I'm not trying to be contentious, but it seems as though you're suggesting the opposite behavior. IOW, from reading the previous post, Rick *did* scrutinize (judge?) his actions, and then forced his body to behave differently.... Here's the larger point I'm wrestling with, probably because I *am* new to practical pistol shooting, and am still woking on the fundamentals: a lot of times, if I let my body "work something out on it's own" that's often a path of least resistance, and possibly *bad*. For example, if you give hand an absolute beginner a golf club, or a guitar or a violin, the way her or she handles it probably is not going to be 'proper,' and will be limiting -- possibly severely -- for future development. The body has sorted out what feels natural, but what feels natural isn't necessarily a good thing. Right now, I'm wrestling with moving to a grip in which my thumb rides the safety of a 1911....When I first started shooting seriously a couple months ago (I've always dabbled, but not in competition, and with gaps of years between shooting), I did not ride the safety; instead my thumb naturally rested under it. It was a natural-feeling, neutral grip that my body found on its own, but a tiny bit wiser, I now realize the virtues of riding the safety, and it's twice the work, at least, to relearn. I guess what I'm saying is it's very very difficult for me to filter out what's a *good* natural physiological reaction/action, and what's one's body taking the "easy way out," so to speak. I think you, yourself, stressed the importance of keeping the reloads UP. Well, I know right now it feels more natural to drop the gun hand while bringing the other hand up, but I also see the absolute sense in keeping the pistol high, so it can get back on target ASAP. That's an example of what I'm talking about -- it's tricky, IMO.

I've been working on a little bit of dry fire, lately, to change my grip from a "thumb-below" safety, to "thumb-riding," and I'm starting to get a very different appreciation for the value of dry fire, in general. I mean, yeah, I know it's good for you, like flossing your teeth is good for you, but I'm starting to think its VERY good for ME, and could well replace a lot of live-fire practice. I'm curious to know, in general: has anyone felt that dry fire routines alone, or overwhelmingly, were responsible for an increase in classification? I'm trying to assess the whole work/life/fun/need new range?/competitive nature/ paradigm. Specifically -- how do y'all handle multiple "shots" on the dry fire target? "Fake" recoil, by lifting the sights (manually) off target? I'm thinking that's not such a hot idea.... Second -- there seem to be two ways I can transition between two targets, for example. (Maybe it's really one way?). Anyway -- I can swing in careful alignment, so that if a target were to appear out of thin air at any point in front of the pistol, index would be in perfect alignmnet, OR, I can zip to the next target as quickly as I can, without totally jerking, or over-correcting. The second method IS faster, but I'm wondering if always keeping a sight alignment is the better method *for practice?* Thx -- just some idle questions before a holiday weekend.

Well, I appreciate all the advice, and jsut finished installing a mixed set -- Dawson fiber optic front, and a plain black Henie rear, from the Custom Glock Racing website. I figure it will be easy enough to replace, or blacken, the front sight if I end up dislike the fiber optic. What the heck. Installing them couldn't have been easier. Literally, I think I could have removed the G34's factory sights with my bare hands, they were so loose. I barely had to tap the rear sight out. Not good. The Heine took a bit of whacking to install it, but I used a heavy wood splitting maul. No, seriously -- I tapped it slowly and gently, and used a steel rod I had kicking about, to drift it the rest of the way in, and more or less centered. I don't see "fine tuning" at the range, w/out a vise, though I like the idea of showing up with the wood splitter on my shoulder. The sight picture, FO aside, is *exactly* what I was looking for. Man, what a difference, and I'm glad I didn't get the Heine in the "race cut", as there's plenty of light on the sides of the post, for my taste. This inspired me so much, I followed the $.25 trigger job instructions on the web, and polished the trigger bar, and parts. Lord knows, I'm no gunsmith, but damned if Glocks aren't reasonably easy to work on. Trigger feels a tad smoother. It will be interesting to see what happens to my groups with this gun. Previously, it was shooting about 2 1/2" - 3", at 25 yards with 115gr CCI Blazer, which it seems to like better than any other factory stuff I've tried...Is this about right, with the stock barrel? I'd hoped for a tad better....

About a month ago, I asked the same basic question here, and ended up ordering a Dillon Square Deal from Brian, in .45acp.* Other accessories, which add up *quick*, I bought here and there off eBay, etc. When it arrived it took about an hour to set-up. The next day, as a complete newbie, I was off and reloading. <shrug> I'm now almost done with my second box of 1k primers. My attention span is such that I usually only crank out batches of 200 rounds, or two primer tubes worth, which takes 35 minutes, or so. I'll usually do 200, take a break, do another 200, remove the powder feeder, dump the powder back into the container, and clean up.... Speaking for me, only, there was no way I could participate in this sport withOUT reloading. Do I shoot more now that I reload? Well, kinda, but two IPSC matches a month, plus an evening local match, once a week, and maybe practice once a week...I was going to be shooting 1k rounds a month, regardless. * Given all the little parts and accessories that came with my entry-level Square Deal, I would NOT want to have bought it used off eBay, and discover you were missing the small primer conversion kit, etc..

Thx all -- I'm clear on how to install the front sight, if I order it, and it seems the rear sight on the G34 needs to be drifted out -- ideally with a tool like a C-Clamp, but some of y'all do it with a punch of some sort? Does it matter which side of slide? IOW, is the dove-tail narrower on one side than the other? Hmmm...paying an extra $20 or $30 to have the sights installed for me, and sighted in, is looking better and better. Otherwise, I'll be bringing a hammer, and punch, to the range to adjust for windage, no?