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mchapman

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Posts posted by mchapman

  1. I've been thinking about digging out my 686-1 6" to maybe use in ICORE classic , and have a few questions, should I chamfer the the cylinder, what speedloader holders are being used and where do I find them, and which speedloader would you suggest Jet or the Safariland Comp 111 and why? Thank you for any replies.

  2. I've had no problems--accuracy or otherwise--with my Short Colt loads in any of my guns. I don't even bother loading .38 Special anymore--well, except for Sam's Marlin carbine, but that's another matter....

    Mike have you used any of the 147 weight bullets? Any problems with them?, I see that most are using VV powders, which I have none but I do have quite a few other maker powders, BE-86 Bulleye, Power Pistol, Auto-comp, Longshot,Red Dot,and 231/HP-38, all of which work well with the 38's the 9's and the 45's that I have been shooting. I would hope that I can get one or two of these powders to work well with the Long Colt/Short Colt if I switch.

  3. Tried short brass.... The bullets keyhole in my Revo. Try a few before you buy a couple thousand pieces of brass.

    Pat was it too much crimp and swaging down? Or was there another issue? Did you try the long colts with any better luck?

  4. I have a new mold that I'm using it's from Accurate Molds and it's a 147 no groove TC in .358 that I'm powder coating. It shoots really well in my 986, 9mm with BE-86 powder loads from 3.7 to 4.5 getting 115 to 131 pf and I have tried that same bullet in my 38 spcl and it shoots pretty good there also. So I thought that I would try the shorter cases to see if I could get better reloads and shoot as well.

  5. I have been using 38 spcl in my 627, but I think that I can help my reloads on the clock by switching to one or the other of short colt or long colt. My question to those of you that have made the switch, which did you go with and why? Thanks in advance for any replies.

  6. Wall thickness will vary from headstamp to headstamp. The thicker walled brass can cause swaging issues with lead or plated projectiles, The FCD usually works well with the thinner walled stuff. It only stands to reason that if the outside of the case is sized the same when comparing thick vs. thin that when run threw the carbide sizing ring on the FCD that that something has to give and that is the bullet in the thick walled case is swaged down to a smaller diameter, so you get the smaller bullet rattling down the barrel and tumbling. And for the record I use PC'd lead bullets and the FCD in my Hornaday AP in 9mm, 38 cal. and 45acp with no tumbling and no leading, with some 9mm fps at 1180 and 357 at 1350 with no issues.

  7. BE-86, Auto Comp, and Longshot all work really well for me in my 1911's and my Revolvers. Using 147 FP set at 1.100 make 130 pf in my 986 with BE-86 with a SD of 7.86. Going from 3.8 to 4.6 grains the SD was 10.25 at worst step on the ladder loads I tried.

  8. The center post on some holders need to be different sizes because the "hole" in the center of the different caliburs are different, my 7 shot 9mm is smaller than what the centers on my 38spcl or my 45acp is.

  9. I have had the same issue with my 986, and also with my 625, I shoot my reloads and so I had to crimp heaver, but with the 986 it's a balancing act to have enough crimp and not swedge the bullet down which in my case the bullet would keyhole on the target. I haven't heard that anyone was having this issue with factory rounds and assumed that this was just a reloading issue with me. The tighter crimp has stopped the bullet working forward, but like I mentioned I have to be careful and swedge or undersize the bullet.

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