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Posts posted by inertia
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Anyone have the steel challenge gun yet?
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10 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
Ah looking at the picture closely I do see you cut it down.
Do you happen to remember which Option you chose.
I have successfully cut 2 of these down to fit behind hayes comps. If you don't need that clearance just get the normal one.
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On 1/3/2023 at 8:01 AM, TonytheTiger said:
Pmags with the Taylor Freelance extension are great. Bonus points if you couple two mags together.
This is the correct answer the TF units have correct angle and grip smcoupled up its like a bipod. Very stable. I loan mine out a lot when people see them.
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Angled is always more effective. Lots of people like their straight baffle brakes but they haven't objectively tested them against these new designs. I have tried about a dozen I really like the hypertap. Also check out the apa answer it's also very good and comes with the top ports tapped with screws which I love
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On 1/3/2023 at 10:27 PM, emjbe said:
My 14yo son likes the Calvin and I can't talk him into any other trigger. I'd call him a beginner - he's shot less than 1000 live rounds in his entire life and 2 matches on the clock. The last ~300 rounds were all on a Calvin.
it's never doubled on him.
Granted that 300 rounds isn't a large sample size ... but I give this as an example of a Calvin working perfectly for a beginner.
This is good news. Sounds like he has good trigger control. Consider that someone that shoots 20k rounds a year pulls the trigger pretty quickly < .15 at full speed so things may behave differently.
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On 10/5/2022 at 9:31 AM, davsco said:
just saw they're (mpa) making a steel challenge open gun, factory minor power factor ammo. a little surprised to see it has a 5" barrel and not something a little shorter a la sti steelmaster.
This will also make a great open multigun pistol. Watching to see how they turn out.
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5 hours ago, Dan Sierpina said:
USPSA and other rule sets require 9mm as a minimum to be used in PCC. The OP has a 5.7 which won't make the cut.
This
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I see people buying razor 1-10s mounting them not understanding how much eye relief they need and selling them cheap when they don't like them. Those are the deals to find then buy the correct mount and good to go.
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I have tried every legit competition ar trigger and currently have several thousand worth in various rifles. There are a few that are great but which of these will work best is a bit about your preferences. Look hard at the new triggertech diamond single stage. A hyperfire eclipse is also on the short list. The calvin elite is very fast but not appropriate for less experienced shooters, I see intermediate shooters struggle to control it and prevent it from doubling. I keep one in my hoser rifle but it's disconcerting when I go to hard and it gets giggly.
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The caliber is a bigger issue than the gun type.
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If you put the same level of effort into load development and tuning for an mpx these guys are for the jp they can be very reliable. This requires some understanding why different systems, roller, blowback, gas piston, like different things.
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Use a good race holster, retention + almost unlimited flexibility in the configuration of your gun.
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A couple things happen here, most common is that the hammer springs are binding in the front corners of the receiver. ELF will suggest stronger springs, that actually makes it worse not better. To ensure 100% reliability I have milled material out of the area where the springs bind on the receiver in all 3 of my guns. They are now perfect with the standard spring. I did also have one situation where the hammer was dragging on the trigger itself but I think that was caused by the way Hayes sets theirs up to reduce overtravel and not getting it tuned quite right. I replaced the safety barrel with the taccom short throw and it was fixed.
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2A armament has an absurdly light titanium large frame carrier, makes my JP seem chunky. This is only appropriate if you know what your doing because you need to tune gas carefully and you cant load too hot or you will be popping primers, its so light and moves so fast you just need to make sure its not opening too early but when its right the recoil is pretty comical since it probably weighs much less than a standard ar15 carrier.
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On 10/17/2021 at 6:17 PM, SuperTed said:
Very cool with the float.
Do you still use the barrel shroud that came with the rifle? I noticed that the shroud is not flush with the end of the barrel anymore on the T&N handguard like it was on the stock one. The shroud sits about 1/8" higher or so. Is that the case with you too? Just want to be sure if that is supposed to be the case or not.
Shroud is dead weight for me so I stick with a modified barrel nut that I slotted so I can tighten it from above.
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7 minutes ago, SuperTed said:
I am! Do have the 14.25" or the 16.5" version(s)?
So far, I am happy as well. I have a remote switch to an Olight Odin, a Magpul MLOK Angle grip and a MLOK QD Clip for my sling.
TBH, I haven't even shot the dang thing yet. I was replacing the magazine release button with an extended version and ended up stripping the Magazine release screw and tearing the head off. Been waiting on Advanced Tactical to get a screw in stock but it's been 4 weeks now and still nothing. So I have a brand new VR80 I can't shoot because the magazine won't stay in.
I have the shorter one, more than long enough unless you have very long arms. They add a little weight so no reason to go longer than necessary. In competitive 3 gun I try to keep the handguards completely empty but can't imagine anything having more slots than those things. One important note T&N doesn't really mention and is hard to describe but is a big deal is how the retaining method allows some degree of float to the system which I can say in my experience is really great for slug accuracy.
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On 9/24/2021 at 6:21 PM, SuperTed said:
Ordered a T&N 14.25" handguard for my VR80.
I'll let you guys know how it works out. While I LOVE the slim style of the stock handguard, the M LOK limitations - despite being a mostly M LOK handguard - are a deal breaker for me. You can't even use the middle M LOK slots because doing so will impede the piston. And the heat from being so close to the piston is an issue as well. The bottom of the handguard has no M LOK slotsfor a forend or anything else for that matter either.
Anyone have the T*N handguard? If so, thoughts?
I have a couple of these handguards and am very happy with them. Solves the heat problems and makes it easier to mount stuff if your in to that sort of thing.
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Looking for advice on anyone that has experience with full race holsters for round trigger guard 1911s. Yes I know that's not single stack legal, I shoot multigun. I think this may be a thing in IPSC though. I use a everglades for my 2011 but it's no go for round trigger guard. I see ghost makes one, anyone tried this or another?
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8 hours ago, grottulf said:
Most ejector issues I believe are just because of the shotgun needs hotter loads to cycle the bolt reliably.
The Tigris/Orthos works with really light loads however, due to the design with the rotating bolt, so that's normally not an issue with this one.
In my case the problem was that the ejector didn't protrude enough, so it didn't get close enough to the bolt.
This can be seen by just hand cycling the action and watch how close the ejector is to the bolt.
I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue with the Tigris though, so I don't think it's common, and they have probably solved the issue by now.
I made some shims to place between the ejector and the upper, to get it closer to the bolt.
I don't have a picture of how it looked without the shim, but here's a pic of how the ejector sits close to the bolt now.
And a pic of the shim.
I also beveled a surface on the ejector, so it follows the inner contour of the upper better.
Before that, it sat slightly canted.
But again, they have probably fixed that by now.
Super helpful! Thanks
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On 8/5/2021 at 3:09 PM, grottulf said:
That's a Tigris XR12 pro!
Apparently they have started to sell them in the US now, but under a different name for some reason...
I love the gun, but it might need some tweaking, like most turkish guns.
After some tweaking of the ejector mine runs all ammo I've thrown at it, even down to 7/8 oz.
And it shots super soft.
You can read more about it here:
Any chance you can describe or show what you did to the ejector? I am having issues we believe are ejector related in a different Turkish box fed and looking for ideas.
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Check with Robert at in lead we trust for feasabity he will know.
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5 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
Not really, because I don't want to add a suppressor to it and the 300 without hearing protection is going to cause permanent hearing loss. And I've already got a 7.5" LANTAC in 300BLK. My Department doesn't have an approved round for BLK, yet.
Fair enough but my rattler is the same size as my mpx, more reliable, and can't be that much louder with 220 subs. And is significantly smaller than the smallest ar because it folds.
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On 8/10/2021 at 5:59 PM, chase214 said:
Yea I had file the rail to fit the recoil lugs on the mount
Yeah I had to do it for my new holosun 512 too. How hard can it be to use the correct dimensions. I am constantly reminded how poorly made these guns are were trying to use for racing. Someone needs to make a quality box fed gun that doesn't need a couple grand of work to be competitive.
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Sig rattler in 300 is the answer you seek.
Current most effective brake? (Titan Extreme vs Apollo Max vs Hypertap)
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Keep in mind that today none of these brakes would be in the top 5 against the most modern designs like hypertap, answer, appolo, new sjc etc. On the same tests. But the consumer wins because these types of tests pushed a lot of innovation in just the last few years. Remember everyone loves their brake (trigger, barrel, scope etc.) if it's the first nice one they have had. But there are a few of us on here who have spent litteral fortunes tying all of it because its fun and we can. That comparative info is what you need.