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hurley326
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Posts posted by hurley326
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Very good point Rich. I can also attest to that. Over 5,000 primers loaded for me now and not a single upside down primer.
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This is getting annoying reading all of this back and forth so I just want to add my experience bc I love this product and don’t want all of this taking away from the good parts.
I ended up experiencing primer slow down with CCI primers after about 1,200. I now only use Federal but still had some slow down. I scratched my output slide as described in the video and sprayed pledge on a Q tip and rubbed the slide and inside the collator tray with the original V1 tray. That has COMPLETELY solved my issue.
I don’t even think the whole silicon spray is even necessary as the pledge trick solved my issues immediately. We are going down this rabbit hole into the silicon BS and it’s not even needed in most applications. I am a high volume loader and this has been a valuable addition to my bench. I have zero skin in the game here, but get annoyed when I have friends reading these posts and spreading rumors around local club that “oh man they are having tons of issues why did you buy that” and I just don’t see that to be the case at all. Our community runs too far with these little issues and makes them as if they are the rule rather than the exception. Granted, I don’t use Winchester but can’t see how the pledge trick wouldn’t solve that.
The silicon method seems dumb and unnecessary. Despite my defense of the product i agree with the guys on here saying you can’t claim there is no issues with this method, the same as they can’t claim there is issues. Saul, you should just bail out of defending that and go back to the first fix unless it wasn’t working for lots of people. I highly recommend anyone give this a try and use the pledge on the ramp if it isn’t working for you.
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I think they are running well in majority. I’ve only heard of a small handful of situations where they werent, whereas 5-10 times that amount of cases where they are running flawless.
This is just my personal experience and observations of posts regarding the Honcho. What I have seen suggested almost since they were created is that “they need to iron out the kinks” when that doesn’t appear to accurately describe the situation. It’s 1-2 flukes that end up getting classified as the rule rather than the exception. And this goes for anything in the firearm community, where someone has a buddy who has a buddy who heard that XYZ wasn’t working well, and then it gets spread as a blanket statement. Hopefully yours gets up to par with the rest of the Honchos out there soon. I can understand the frustration.
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45 minutes ago, slavex said:
the torque sensor detects when the shellplate won't index due to something getting stuck, the clutch sensor can detect something stopping the toolhead from completing it's downstroke, but I've not found primers in a case at the swage station would trip that, they'd just crushed by the swage, and that was on a zero clutch setting on both my machines.
Well it happened to me and was replicated many many times. In setting up the swage sensor I purposely put a case with primer here to trigger the sensor and didn’t know why it kept alerting digital clutch rather than “ringer detected”. Continued to do this even with the swage sensor unplugged so I called mk7 and Misty helped me identify the problem. I now have a new cable and it works as it was intended. -
Both MBX which the gun does not like and tuned Atlas STI gen 2 l. Only MBX it likes is I have one with Grams internals. Everybody says that the Mbx is the best but I’m not seeing that.
Damn that sucks. Mine loves MBX, 12 different ones in total between 9/38 and 40. Not a single issue or modification needed to any of them straight out the package. Something finicky for sure going on with yours.
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42 minutes ago, slavex said:
how will the torque sensor detect a stuck primer?
There is upward pressure on the shell plate that slows the the completion of that pass and specifically it shows “digital clutch activated”. The same way if there was a bullet that was sideways or a case that was getting stuck on the edge of the sizing die, once anything slows down the advance of the movement, digital clutch is activated.
The reason I know this is because I have the swage sensor but had issues with getting it to activate due to a bad connector cable. So I’ve had it installed but unplugged for the last 2 months. They finally were able to trouble shoot it and get me a new cable so it works now, but in trying to figure it out I put rounds with unspent primers in the swage station to purposely rip the swage sensor but instead would get “digital clutch activated”. We now are aware this was because the cable wasn’t working. -
Mine worked fine out of the box but seemed to slow down significantly after using 500 CCI primers. I then scratched the output chute as described in the one video and put a little pledge on it with a Q tip and it’s ran smoothly for about 1,000 additional CCI and 1,500 Federal.
I’d be hesitant to the use silicon spray method when the pledge method works and is way easier. I think the silicon method may be more so if your experiencing build up in the collator itself more so than just the output chute, but even then I would consider just spraying the collator with the silicon or running doe pledge on that before applying to the primers themselves.
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Just an update. I ended up ordering the swage sensor, bullet sensor and powder sensor. I can now vouch that the bullet sensor and powder sensor are MUST HAVES.
I’ve been reloading mostly brand new 38sc brass so I haven’t really needed the swage sensor but I am still not sold on it being a must have. The internal torque sensor can be set to activate should you have a primer that is stuck in there. I’m not ruling it out as I have only loaded about 1,000 one fired 9mm but for my reloading needs, I don’t think it’s mandatory as of now.
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I have one I shoot in 9mm and 38sc. Zero issues with either. Gun runs great.
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Aggressive is what I have and I couldn’t imagine anything more aggressive, although I haven’t handled one like that yet
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Gotcha. It’s either the Evolution powder drop or something else I have to figure out. Purchased the Evo in November from MK7 so think it’s a recent model.
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Is anyone else running this powder on a Mark 7 Evolution/Revolution? I think because it’s such a fine grain powder it’s causing inconsistent powder drops for me. I’m getting some at 10.1 grains and others at 8 grains.
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On 11/23/2019 at 10:22 AM, TANFARM said:
Whatever it’s worth......I’ve been in serious contact with the Product Development manager at Shooters World powder, Ken, in regards to the I burned powder residue I’m finding on my Chaos.
He has been truly interested in trying to find the cause of this mess.....
Great to see service like this today....will keep postedany update on this? I am looking at buying an 8lb jug of this from Powder Valley and I am having serious doubts.
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ive been using the FW arms dies and they have been working great. I just ordered the MA dies so will let you guys know what is better once I run the MA
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there is advantage and disadvantage to both but I prefer shooting with friends. If during a walkthrough I am planning to run the stage a certain way and miss a faster gameplan one of my friends may come up with a better strategy and share. I also enjoy spending time with my shooting buddies, as I don't hang out with any of them outside of shooting. I often push myself a little harder when shooting with friends rather than strangers. This can be both good and bad though.
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On 12/16/2019 at 11:16 PM, dosproduction said:
Got my Evo about a week ago or so. Quick shipping had it within about 10 days or ordering so that was great. Now I’m running it I have had a couple issues maybe someone can help me with. Running a standard stacked primer configuration. I originally ran about 100 lrg pistol primers Winchester and never had a issue. But upon running Remington primers when ever there was Not a round to be primed as the primer dropped to retract it would catch at a angle and jam up the primer return bar which would freeze up the machine. Any one have this happen and do you think it is just the Remington primers? Next I was wondering if there is any better video on greasing everything? I watched the one on Mark 7 and find it a little lacking. Like how many squirts in the zurk fittings? How exactly do you lube the main piston and guide rods just rub it on? And I think I saw him point to the end of the handle joint but not sure what to do there. Thanks for any info.
Did you contact Misty yet at Mk7? She's your best resource. It's likely just adjustments needed. See the attached primer seat troubleshooting guide.
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1 hour ago, IVC said:
We just need threads: "I shoot a custom Infinity and I beat a bunch of guys with their stock Glocks." Imagine having more money AND being a better shooter than someone else!
/sarcasm
Lol cracking up
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I absolutely love this device but I agree with many original posters that regular sharpie simply doesn't work and I was very frustrated for over a week when I first got it. I tried the Range Panda device and I had no luck with that. Shortly after I upgraded to the Brush Tip Sharpie Markers and put tape around the marker thick enough that it stopped the O ring from sliding and this solved any issue I had with the machine. I have marked over 2,000 rounds with it and it produces thick consistent lines every time. I highly recommend this device and using these markers below with tape above the O ring once you get your height and you won't have any issues.
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It really is a great design the cone for auto centering. It's one of those things you look back on and think "damn why didnt I come up with that!". I've ran about 2,000 rounds and no issues at all.
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I think if there so much residual leftover on the case then your using too much. Try using less next time around and by the time you load the rounds there shouldnt be a noticeable amount left on them. Or at least such a small amount that dumping them on a towel and giving them a quick rub should remove whats remaining.
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On 12/20/2019 at 10:05 PM, OptimiStick said:
just got the decapper and swage backer as well. I’ll try them in my Revolution hopefully this weekend.I am using it now on my new Evo Pro but I can't really give an opinion since I haven't used the redding decapping die I have instead. Not worth me even comparing now since I bought the FW Arms. I definitely buy into the conical design, it makes perfect sense on paper. I havn't loaded many rounds on this press yet but definitely have not had any issues with the decapping or swage stations with these dies.
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Yep S2 mag release with the paddle installed is not legal for ESP, got DQ'ed for running one on the S1. You could remove the paddle for IDPA, but still have the overall weight issue.
I would suggest trying the S1 first before buying since you know you like the S2. While the grip does feel in general smaller, the S1 had a rounded trigger guard that extends down at the bottom where the S2 is more flat like most guns I shoot. I find the S1's trigger guard makes me feel like my support hand is sort of low and out of place.
With internal slide/frame lightening you can take off the magazine release and shoot ESP. You won’t have a magwell like most ESP shooters but you can get the gun into the game this way
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I have a Leupold DPP adapter plate and it’s OEM from Leupold. Sent you a PM bc I don’t have a DPP anymore so could let it go to you.
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Mine just arrived. Waiting on my mk7 to arrive. Will be interested in your full assessment. Thanks
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DAA primer pro collator
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
No. His point about there being significant value to a product that consistently deliver primers in the proper direction every time. That makes ironing out whatever kinks worthwhile.
I think it’s a given that when you buy something you expect it to work, but that’s the risk of being an early adopter for anything. I can bare with the company for a certain amount of time as long as they actively try to fix the problem which they have with the upgraded ramp and v2 Disc and all of these support videos. Of course it’s annoying you have to do any of that but at the end of the day, for me and my experience, I am not inconvenienced by having to one time every 5,000 primers to rub a tiny bit of pledge on my output ramp that takes me 2 seconds. none of these proposed methods, even the stupid silicon in a box method are major undertakings like your having to rebuild an engine or something like that.
The concerns are absolutely valid, but it should be known that there are people who this is working very well for on the other side of that coin. It’s not a total lemon.