Wiseguy724

Awesome, thanks for this! What were your qualms with the BOLO?

Yes I have spent a lot of time inside my gun, a lot of surfaces in there are mirrored. i wet sand in steps from 800 to 2500 grit, sometimes 3000 before polishing in some cases. I bought the gun used and the previous owner had nearly destroyed it. so I have learned a lot about tanfo internals and functions on my journey since it was a paperweight with several missing parts when I unboxed it. As a matter of fact watching your videos allowed me to see that years later, I'm still actually missing parts. I wasn't expecting to get much more beyond "if you want to shoot production just buy a 9mm," so thank you all for the great feedback.

I could go either way as far as the color scheme on both go, but I just figured the xtreme would have more work "pre-done" compared to the standard. What lb recoil spring would cycle 40 minor well? I currently use the henning 10.75 lb on my major gun an it has been fine so far, but might be too stiff for minor. Jaytac you are the first I've heard make a comment like that towards the CZ shadow 2, a lot of people rave about them especially with the cajun farkles added. Not disputing, just surprising. Any further detail? There is someone here locally selling their entire shadow 2 production rig with all of cajuns stuff done in house by CJW, so it would be a nice turn-key transition. Well, aside from having to buy ammo until I can get a caliber conversion squared away. As far as sharing a holster I use a racemaster for my current limited tanfo so I'll have to setup a new rig anyway, but moving from the elite limited to a shadow 2/stock 2 is smoother than say, 1911 to tanfo. The reason I was thinking stock 2 vs 3 is bull barrel, and call me superficial but I don't dig the railed frame look as much as I prefer the smooth full length dust cover. I'm at the skill level where aesthetics still actually matter (i.e. I'm not that great). Thank you for the responses. This may not happen but It's good to get some input on options. I also think about trying open tanfoglio but there seems to be less info out there.

A lot of people shop these 2 vs each other for production with good arguments on either side. I was wondering about shooting a stock II xtreme in .40 minor because I already have a 1050/mr bulletfeeder and a ton of components for my limited setup. I have been contemplating taking a break from limited and being that I have been shooting tanfo for several years, I wanted to stick with a similar platform. I see a lot of comparisons but not for my oddball .40 minor idea. Also how well will the xtreme compare well to a shadow 2 with cajun parts? From what I gather .40 minor can shoot just as soft as 9mm.

when are these supposed to start arriving stateside?

Well folks, the problem may have been solved. Took a sanding wheel on the dremel to that rib and after many sparks that ceramic coating finally came off. Followed by a non trivial amount of time wet sanding with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 grit paper and final finish with red jewelers rouge polish, and I have a mirror for a rail now. This seems to have done it, even with my "wonky" coke bottle bayous, they don't seem to drag out anymore. I will get to a range this weekend, but had no instances with my hand cycling, then hard racking with the recoil spring re-installed again seem to show that the problem is over. In any case, that pre-processed brass from ECRS is very very high quality, and I will go with them for my match ammo forwards anyway, just to be beyond sure. And this journey has caused me to learn a lot more about re-loading so it wasn't all bad. THANK YOU so much to everyone who has given input, every little bit put together has fixed this issue for me, after 4 years I may finally be able to trust this gun. Will report back after a range test.

Well folks, the problem may have been solved. Took a sanding wheel on the dremel to that rib and after many sparks that ceramic coating finally came off. Followed by a non trivial amount of time wet sanding with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 grit paper and final finish with red jewelers rouge polish, and I have a mirror for a rail now. This seems to have done it, even with my "wonky" coke bottle bayous, they don't seem to drag out anymore. I will get to a range this weekend, but had no instances with my hand cycling, then hard racking with the recoil spring re-installed again seem to show that the problem is over. In any case, that pre-processed brass from ECRS is very very high quality, and I will go with them for my match ammo forwards anyway, just to be beyond sure. And this journey has caused me to learn a lot more about re-loading so it wasn't all bad. THANK YOU so much to everyone who has given input, every little bit put together has fixed this issue for me, after 4 years I may finally be able to trust this gun. Will report back after a range test.

Where about did you squeeze? There's a lot of places on a mag I can imagine squeezing!

Ok I'll give that a shot, makes me wonder though how these new xtreme guns fair since they are ceramic coated from the factory? Also I thought I had a decent crimp but upon closer inspection it seems that I could go a bit more and still be ok. I'll tighten it up a smidge and see how that goes. Thanks a lot for the suggestions.

Those bullets you listed look very similar to the winchester white box, which may have something to do with it as well. I'll see if i can get some sample packs, thanks a lot for the suggestion, I'm beyond frustrated.

Thank you for your replies cha-lee. I tried sanding and polishing that rib but the ceramic coating just shrugged off my efforts. I will make another attempt with something coarser than 800 to see if I can get through to the base metal. If angle isn't as important than I recon that radius on my breech is adequate, its smooth as glass now.

Long story short is that my ammo is causing the top round of the magazine to drag forward, and gets hung up on the trigger bar, trigger plunger, or the ledge just below the plunger and causes my mags to not eject properly. I bought some winchester white box and those don't seem to drag out at all when doing hand cycle testing. My re-loads are exhibiting the "coke bottle" shape, and I guess that is making this problem worse. This happened on my 550 as well as on this new 1050 I just got set up. I Chamfered the breech face edge to no result. Also tried to use .400 sized projectiles and those didn't help either. Relevant pictures and additional details are in the other thread. Last step is I bought a bunch of pre-processed brass from East coast reloading, and have some hornady one shot spray on the way to see if lubing and processed brass will get my rounds to have a nice slim and even profile like the factory stuff, which seems to be the solution. I was about to drop the cash and get the brand new Limited xtreme series but I don't want to run into the same problem again, I feel like I need to get this fixed first before spending the money on something else, especially if it's essentially the same gun. Any help? I am about to just give up, my window to return my super 1050 is closing so I'm hoping to get a solution soon. Otherwise I'm calling it quits, I have been trying for over 3 years to get this running right to no avail. Don't want to abandon tanfoglio because the gun runs and feels awesome, I just can't deal with having to manually rip mags out for every reload.

don't want to take off too much, how much more is safe to go?

Chamferred the edge of the breech face, still causing the issue. Also got in my .400 projectiles, loaded up a batch still no luck. One shot case lube and the pre-processed brass from ECRS should be here tomorrow. If that last combo doesn't fix it I will be returning the super 1050 and selling the gun, bummed. I was actually about to just buy a brand new xtreme Limited and hope that a new gun would sort it, like maybe I had a lemon with this gun since it's given me problems since day 1. Any hope that an undersized-die (U-die) would be worth a shot? I'm just at wits end with this. Do cz shadows face this problem? What about 1911 people? I'm bummed that all these years the problem was that I can't make ammo well enough, not the gun. some pics of my chamfer, its polished so much it reflects light like crazy, hard to get a picture but I made an attempt, wasn't sure how much material to remove. Also couldn't polish the rail, the previous owner had it ceramic coated or something and I just cant get through it with sandpaper or polish, it's very tough.

Yes mine seem to coke bottle a bit, they are wide where the bullet sits, then they taper inwards, then flare back out at the bottom close to the rim. It's not dramatic but it is measurable. Before I load I lube with a light oil in a ziploc bag, I knead them thoroughly with a nitrile gloved hand for a while until they are coated evenly. I have a can of Hornady one shot in the mail that I was going to give a try. I just got a super 1050 set up this past weekend so I'm hoping that spray will work out nicely. I don't tumble afterwards currently. To be clear I didn't fire the gun with factory ammo yet, just hand cycled with good results. With various other home made rounds I hand cycle and the first 2 or 3 may cause the mag to hang when I try to eject it, then it cycles fine, then the last 5 or 6 rounds will also hang the mag up on ejection so it's repeatable now at this point. Blue .400 projectiles are on the way, they are located a few blocks from me so hope they are here tomorrow. I also ordered some processed brass from east coast reloading supply (also down the highway from me a bit) to see if maybe some better processed brass will also help. Do you recommend the undersized die? Could you tell me more about the reasoning behind running that die? I know enough about loading to make my ammo but I don't have a ton of experience outside setting up my old press for this one guns particular load, and just loading that without change for the past few years.

It seems to be my ammo. Bought a box of Winchester white box just to see how they behaved, those hardly drag out at all. I pulled the firing pin and recoil spring to do some more hand cycling. I would run the slide back and forth over the loaded mag to try and shimmy the top round forward, couldn't get it to budge much at all on the white box. With my self loaded stuff I can work the slide back and forth a few times while looking into the chamber and i can see them getting dragged forward. The white box ammo projectiles are around .396-.399 dia, with the max dia of the case never exceeding .420 . Mine start at .421 and maybe get a little bigger to about .422 on some. an extra thou on each x 19 rounds adds up. Will report back after more fiddling. I think maybe I'll try .400 instead of .401 projectiles to reduce the diameter a bit. Maybe some extra care to get my brass more smooth and polished will help too. Slowly but surely working this issue out!

yes I had some 10mm mags and used to load long to try and get them to work, that was a disaster. These worked great for a period. I ordered fresh springs as these have been in there for a very long time, years. I'll keep updating as things develop. Maybe the increased tension will help keep that top bullet pressed firmly against the lips, preventing drag-out. Have a brand new henning-grams-mecgar mag setup incoming as well to get a baseline feed lip dimension to see if mine have spread. Thanks to all those who have replied. I'll try factory ammo the next time I get a chance to shoot, probably this weekend.

added picture of my current button. Thanks for the thought, do you have any play at all? I did my best to get a measurement, seems to be able to move maybe .025- .030" total travel.

it's the extended mag release, i thought they came with these? The original was butchered by the previous owner so I replaced it with the extended silver one. It started life as an elite limited so I figured it was ok.

Haven't touched the feed lips since they were new so I'm not sure. All the mec-gar k40's are at .379-.382", the MBX is .375"

I know the problem you speak of with over-pressing and unfortunately it's not that, back side of mag release never touches the mag body, no matter how hard the press it never comes past flush. I have found the problem, will try and post pics shortly, still need a fix. pictures of nose drag confirmed. I made up some dummy rounds and assembled the gun with no recoil spring, after chambering a round i could watch with a flashlight that the next in the mag was dragged out all the way until it contacted to trigger bar plunger like in the picture, pressed mag release, got stuck, than was able to gently remove the slide without disturbing the malfunction to take pics. slowly worked mag out to take the next 2 pictures. https://imgur.com/a/z1nRaei

UPDATE: Added photos confirming my suspicions. still need a solution though! https://imgur.com/a/z1nRaei Hello all, Posting here because this might not be a tanfoglio specific problem. I have been battling mag problems for a while in my limited gun in 40. Sometimes when I hit the mag release, the mag only comes out a little bit before getting stuck. I have a hard time reproducing this problem on demand, and I label my magazines and found that they all do it intermittently so I know its not a "problem child" magazine. Sometimes a little flick will get it out but other times I'm violently flipping the gun left to right to get the mag out. This past match I actually had to take the reload i had in my left hand and slap it back onto my belt magnet so I could rip the mag out. At first I thought this was due to mags bulging, so I loaded to 19 instead of 20 but still had problems. When loaded to 19 the mags bulge about 0.025" total. In an attempt to relieve this I bought an (extremely expensive) MBX magazine to test, it has about 0.005" thicker steel walls and a different tube from mec-gar and bulged significantly less when loaded to 20. I still had the problem. I think I have finally have determined the cause of this issue to actually be a result of the nose of the bullet sticking out too far forward when I hit the release. So that top round is dragging on the front strap side of the magwell on the way down. I'm not sure what to do about this, I currently load 180gr bayous to 1.125" over 4.1gr of titegroup in mecgar k40 mags with hennings basepads and grams spring/follower kits. They feed beautifully, I never get jams, it's only a release problem. My only guess is that I could try a .400 bullet vs the .401 to make my rounds a bit less likely to drag on each other while the gun is cycling, but I wasn't sure if that's enough to make a difference. Plus from what I've read polygonal rifling likes .401 better as well as .401 being better for cast/coated bullets anyway. Any suggestions? really tired of throwing stages away due to this problem! I have actually developed stage anxiety over this, and even considered moving to production so I can live a simpler life at only 10 rounds.

just got a k40 and with stock follower in a henning pad i loaded 19 at 1.125 and they seem to be a success. will fire this weekend but they hand cycle and are easily downloadable, first round slides off by hand as smooth as the last, looks promising. grams kit will be here tomorrow for a possible 20 reloadable. don't know if op is still having trouble but I'll post results here so its out there to maybe help others in the future as well.

+1 for race master magnetic. had the original non-mag for my sig x-6, just swapped the block and I was good to go. even comes with a little sticker to cover the old hole where the tension adjuster was!

I had the same issue with my left hand thumb locking the slide back, did this to my slide release. gun will not lock back, issue went away.