longbeard
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Posts posted by longbeard
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I have an opportunity to buy one of the optics ready variants where the plate system comes from the factory. I know the czc plates system has had some issues with the plates staying put. Does anyone have any experience with the factory plate system?
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They work great for PCC. However, if you use a hot powder like Titegroup it will make a mess out of the comp.
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Generally, your comb height will relate to the view you have through the window. Too low or too high and the dot will be at the top or bottom of the glass due to the angle you are looking through the window. You can add risers to the rail or comb to control this if need be. You want the mounted gun to give u a good window view.
After that, adjusting elevation on the optic itself should not move the dot so substantially that it's out of the field of view. It's adjusted with set screws on the optic. Generally a few clicks to get it dialed in.
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19 hours ago, Chillywig said:
How viable is it to set up a 22 AR in a very similar fashion to a PCC to use in practice? Using the same grip trigger optic etc to mimic the PCC match gun. The 22lr could also be used in steel challenge matches. My question is the recoil going to be too soft to be a practical training substitute?
I don't think there is any substitute for using the same gun. Particularly with regards to dot movement and tracking which relates to your recoil comment.
Anything the 22lr is going to do for you could be gained with dry fire IMO. I know I have repeatedly learned that in shooting sports, there are few economical short cuts. It's just an $$ hobby!
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I stopped shooting these because of this issue. There are various methods to clean. They all seem to provoke emotional responses from forum members.
I used a 7/8 hole saw with an extension and the pilot removed. Worked very well. Went slow to protect the crown. Never had an issue. PVC just didn't have the strength to remove heavy build up. I pulled several ounces out of my shroud once I used the hole saw. Buildup got so bad it effected my accuracy by putting the barrel in a bind against the shroud.
Best strategy is to shoot fmj and avoid serious build up caused by coated and plated bullets.
Good luck.
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SNS bullets have a fine product as well as Blue Bullets.
Plated bullets can be more brittle than coated. Watch for cracking if you go that route.
All can cause leading on a comp if you use Titegroup. A cooler powder like sport pistol is recommended.
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2 minutes ago, Makicjf said:
Howdy,
I'm struggling to get my hand under the beaver tail of my SP 01 from the holster. I have large hands ( X large gloves) but found, with help, that the patriot defense palm swells fill my hand better, though I'm still placing my support hand palm onto the fingertips of my strong hand. I can't seem to devise a draw which allows for high, deep and quick hand placement on the draw. When I shoot Steel Challenge single stack or revolver i'm within .28 percent of the other. The two matches I've shot my SP 01 i'm 12-15 percent slower. The difference is a fumbly draw and consistently inconsistent grips.
If I start from low ready, and slide my hand up the grip under the the beaver tail I can run the essentially the same times as with revo and single stack from low ready. I think this confirms my bad draw/bad grip thoughts. I'm thinking I may reduce (shorten) the back of the beaver tail and thin the area underneath to mimic an upsweep to facilitate my draw and grip . The TSO i'm in possession of I do not struggle to gain a grip from the holster : it has much more of an upsweep beavertail , though I still end up gripping on all but the pinky of my strong hand.
Is modifying the beaver tail a foolish idea? Should I just sell the SP 01, grips, mags and extended mags and try a different DA/SA with a large hand friendly grip? I'd like to keep the sp 01, as its never had a malfunction, and if I start from a forced good grip it shoots well for me.
Jason
If a small tweak is legal and gets you more comfortable I say it's worth it. However, before buying a whole other gun I personally would make sure I have dry fired diligently. We've all had the "If I change guns maybe it will be better" thought. Generally, it comes down to enough practice.
Case in point, I just recently parted ways with my CO Shadow. PHENOMENAL GUN. However, I could just never get comfortable with it. They just are not real comfortable for me. I decided this after shooting 10's of thousands of rounds over the years through a few different ones.
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3 minutes ago, regor said:
Do you know if those will fit scorpion mags?
Sorry. I don't.
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This works well.
https://codaevolution.com/products/swift-pcc-magpouch
Most pistol mag pouches are fine as well, but a big stick with extended base pad is unwieldly in length. The above with it's long pouch allows you get the base pad to a position similar to where a pistol mag would be.
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Trigger Help
in Sig
1 minute ago, Lowsc3 said:Are you comparing the reset to another gun? its hard to say what the issue is you are having it may be normal. For example the reset on my x-5 is horrid when compared to my CZ TSO. Striker fired guns in my experience haven't come close to a hammer fired race guns in terms of triggers.
I'm with you. Striker guns will never have a trigger like a hammer hook and sear system. However, I am pretty sure the reset can be improved with the right components as evidenced by watching some videos.
I just want to understand thoroughly before I spend $100. Looks to me like the AC trigger is a good bet and perhaps the Apex trigger bar.
AC triggers are unicorns @ the moment unfortunately.
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Trigger Help
in Sig
28 minutes ago, DirectDrive said:I have the Apex bar with the Keres trigger.
They play well together.
Starting from scratch, I would get this kit...
https://grayguns.com/product/p320-competition-hybrid-trigger-system/
You should be able to get a flat trigger if you ask.
I have the flat non adjustable gg kit. Which imo has very little over travel thus the over travel adjustment isn't critical to me. It's the distance to get the trigger to reset which is much further than anything I'm used to.
The AC trigger claims to improve this, but I don't quite understand how set screws will fix the reset position. Seems to me that either is done with a trigger bar or with changing the geometry of the trigger lever itself. Is that what the AC and Keres do?
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Trigger Help
in Sig
So has anyone definitely decided if the Apex trigger bar paired with the GG trigger is a good thing?
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Trigger Help
in Sig
1 hour ago, zhunter said:The Keres trigger was designed for the P320 and increases the pull weight on the Legion
The Armory Craft trigger was designed for the Legion geometry and decreases the pull weight not the Legion
I read that, but I've also noticed that keros says for the X5. Has something changed?
I understand that the trigger allows pre and over travel adjustments, but this isn't really going to change the distance it takes to reset? Or are those trigger using a different geometry as well?
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Trigger Help
in Sig
Hello all, I've searched a lot and read a lot, but still can't put it all together. I've come into a legion with the GG trigger. Not sure which springs were used and it has not adjustable trigger.
Weight is fine. Reset is horrid. I am confused how to address that issue. Will a Keres or Armory craft do the trick? Is one better than the other? It appears maybe one or both will add some weight to the pull? Is there another approach people are using?
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I accomplished this eliminating the need to clean it. I was using Titegroup and coated bullets. This is a nightmare of melted slag and build-up that you cannot overcome because it builds up in a very short time. Sport Pistol cured this as it's not as hot. Now every 5K rounds or so a little screwdriver knocks off the small amount of build-up in there that I could probably just leave. You could also avoid coated or plated bullets.
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20 hours ago, Adamj said:
Is anyone using JP's ultralight shrouded barrel in USPSA? I've heard many people use it for Steel Challenge and maybe it's more applicable for that game.
I have a side charging upper on my GMR-15, but I have been thinking about going lighter. Does anyone think the shrouded Barrel would be a good choice for USPSA?
For me personally, I like a heavier gun in USPSA. Right about 7#. However, I did shoot an ULW Taccom for a season and did well with it.
A good load and buffer stroke are likely the more important mechanics of the division.
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On my AR9 I run it without a riser and like it just fine.
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13 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Actually, FMJ have exposed lead bottoms - really best to use JHP's
Good point!
Coated with Sport Pistol gives me no issues.
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3 hours ago, egd5 said:
I've got maybe 2-3K through my new JP now. I never cleaned my comp on my last pcc (Taccom), but someone pointed out buildup on my comp this morning, so the question. I searched around and found a solution of peroxide and vinegar would do the job, mostly. I've got mine soaking now. But I wonder how often most people clean theirs.
Someone at Tandem Kross pointed out to me that the result of this process is lead that is really easily absorbed by anything. So watch handling it. I actually quit doing it after it discolored my SS comp. I just use a small screwdriver or a dremel now.
I would think FMJ would be best for the comp. Coated plated bullets lead with Titegroup or other hot powders. Makes it a real challenge to clean.
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Anyone have one of these? Curious how it compares to a Blitzkrieg as well as how it works with short stroking.
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Backing up what others have said. Drive that gun into your shoulder. Like gripping the pistol, the more you do it the tighter the groups. Remembering to do it in the midst of a stage is always a challenge.
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I do not have any experience with that brand, but will comment that for Glock lowers, Glock mags are the way to go. I've tried various aftermarket mags, and nothing beats just a plain old Glock mag for reliability and durability. Not worth saving a few $$ IMO.
Shadow 2 Optics Ready Variant
in CZ
Posted
Thanks,
I have two people where I am that have had issues with czc plates. They had someone manufacture steel plates to solve the issue. It seems the majority of people are just fine. It would be nice to have the rear sight, which this variant includes as a plate.