Action Pistolero
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Posts posted by Action Pistolero
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Jeremy,
I have a few extra 9x23 cases you could trim down.
That's really nice of you. If you have enough, I'll just ream the barrel.
You could always trim them.
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Hi Guys
All signed up just to keep an eye on Kevin.
Huh, do you need some pointers or what?
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I'm #17. Remaining needed components have shipped. 60k primers and 16# of powder. Brass is ready to go as well as the guns. I'll start shooting the auto again this month.
Jeremy,
I have a few extra 9x23 cases you could trim down.
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No worries there, Doug. I've seen his stash.
Gm,
I guess you are just going to have to be happy with the white truck. See ya in MI.
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Ideally, you could take them down until you can just barely see a ring around the bullet. I have found that the base of the case can bell out causing the round not to chamber if you do this. The case mouth should read .380" or less. .382" is too big. Try to take them down to .378".
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Check the extractor tension first. Do this by taking the slide off and slide a round under the extractor. The round should stay there. Install the barrel in the slide with the round in there. Push the barrell up into lock and then come down and pull the barrel out of the slide. The round should stay put. If it falls out, you need more tension. Also, be sure that the extractor tunnel is clean.
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Posted Today, 03:54 PM
Koppi, on 18 January 2013 - 03:14 PM, said:Check out the rules so you don't get bitten.
How would this happen?
Kevin,
I think he means which division he will land in.
It may be just me but it's pretty much cut and dried. 1911 in Metallic and XD in Production unless the aftermarket sights do not fit the factory dovetail.
He's not talking about shooting Bianchi or any other regisered match so who would really care? Just have fun with it.
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Holy crap,
Melon Head can type. Shovel coal into that old computer up there did we.
That's just too funny.
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Check out the rules so you don't get bitten.
How would this happen?
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Use the XD. 9mm bullets are cheaper. Don't worry about non adjustable sights. Just be sure to know where to aim at all the distances.
It will take a little while to get used to the time limits so I wouldn't fret too much about equipment now. After the bug has bit you, then get a 1911 in a smaller caliber. If you have a 22 pistol, use that. Cheap and fun.
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Mixed brass is more than likely the problem. Case capacities vary from man. to man. Overall length of those cases varies also. This changes the amount of crimp on each round which changes pressure and therefore velocity.
Throw ten charges with the powder measure and weigh them all togerther. They should be close to 43.2 grains. Since you have the micrometer charge bar, it is easy to get the powder charge damn near perfect.
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As far as I have found, there is no chemical out there that can clean the carbon out and not destroy anything else.
I soak the comp with Shooters Choice to loosen the carbon. If the build up is real bad, I'll use an engine turning brush on a dremel to get it out. You have to be real careful around the crown.
From then on, spray the comp with Dillon case lube after every stage. This keeps the carbon loose. When you clean the gun, use Shooters Choice and a cotton swab and most of the carbon will come out. For any that is left, I use a piece of a Scotch brite pad soaked in solvent. Lock the pad in the end of a pair of hemostats and clean out the ports.
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The extractor is the only issue as long as the loads are the same pf.
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Like you, I had to modify my 013 because of the thumbrest. The 014 is already relieved so no modification needed.
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I agree. 2 seasons on my open gun and I'm already dumping probably $500 more in it this winter.
This is what happens when the gun wasn't built correctly to start with. Been there. Done that. I had 4 grand in my first open auto. Not because of the gunsmith. I didn't know what I needed to start off.
In my opinion, Production is for shooters in 2 categories. New shooters and those that believe they can be competitive with one gun in numerous shooting sports.
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Did you get enough to pay off the Chrysler?
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The rule states that the grip can be modified. I would go with that.
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I just happened to run into a guy yesterday at the range that does this. He said he uses a chop saw to cut the 38 Spl cases close to his target length and then uses a trimmer. A lathe would be better but very time consuming.
I have a Forster case trimmer with an adapter to use an electric drill. I can trim 1000 pistol cases in 2 hours.
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I would say no. The will be too much slop in the slide. To my knowledge, you can't use one with a frame that has been cut for a ramped barrel. I used a plain GI spec frame.
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It will mount on pretty much any belt. The only one that I can think of that it will not fit is the Safariland Levitation belt.
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Sounds like Brent and my guess would be the damn Mover.
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You can replace the whole grip on a revolver so I would say that taking the groves off would be okay. As far as the trigger guard goes, email Tom. He may send it to the head ref and get a ruling.
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I have been having this problem with 9x23 for years. It looks like you fixed the problem. I'll be trying this one. Thanks.
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I had the same problem with 9x23. It uses the 223 shellplate.
It looks like the spring that pushes the case into the shellplate is weak. From the video, it looks like when you are going fast the piece on the toolhead that pushes the bar the back and forth is ahead of the bar. I replaced the spring with a 1911 recoil spring. It's tight as hell but it works.
Info on trigger pull in the 3 divisions
in NRA - Bianchi Cup
Posted
The Gilmore shroud is the way to go.
It looks like you are from Canada. If you know Russell Bryan, he may be able to help you out with the tombstone. He has a few of the old Holo sights with tombstone reticles. It's been about 15 years since they were made. The majority of us use a tube red dot and a Stick Shift mover base.