MetropolisLake
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Posts posted by MetropolisLake
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Simple question, if I put an STI Eagle that is blued in a BladeTech WRS holster, will I kick myself due to wear and scratches? I have never had a blued gun before.
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I'm a Glock guy
I would go the 2011 route.
"I have two guns, one for each of ya."
Glock's and Smith's will do everything you'll ever need for 3-Gun but once anyone has it in their head that somethings else is better...it is.
I'll just say that even though the Glock mods turned out real nice and were done in a most excellent way and this is about as good as you can ever hope for in a Glock, it still feels pretty dinky compared to the 2011, which turned out to be way nicer than I had imagined. I'm still going to be going with the Glock for now though. I just ran across a deal on an STI that I couldn't turn down so I got both.
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Think about it this way: which of these two shooters is more likely to come back and shoot next month... the one who came in 5th in a 9 person division where everyone shot the same kind of stuff, or the one who came in 34th in a 40 person match where 3/4s of the shooters had vastly better equipment?
Hell I've only been in one 3-gun match and only came in 29th out of 40 and missed targets over and over again. Friggin had the time of my life and can't wait until the next one. Got a temporary fix with a USPSA meet just to run a borrowed stock Glock and went up against several custom 2011's, same results, bottom 25%. I'll be bach.
Ironically, the guy who came in 34th out of 40 is here on this board, username DDustin. He obviously had a hell of a time too and is gearing up for the next one.
As a pro friend of mine (Tyler McCutcheon) said, your first match should be all about just trying to not get DQ'ed. Which, makes tons more sense now than it did at the time. I don't think these kind of results get the "I'm never going back again" response that you think.
Also should mention that the guy that won that meet had a stock M&P pro, yet I have a 2011 and suck. Equipment restrictions wouldn't necessarily have the effect you are stating.
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Why wouldn't the Tac Irons / Limited division have the pistol choices restricted to the USPSA Production division list? This is the division that new shooters try first
Based on what little I have seen, this doesn't seem to necessarily be the case. There are plenty of new guys in tactical optics, and plenty of veterans who willingly choose to be in heavy metal or tac irons / limited for the challenge and fun of it, and they still blow the pants off the new guys.
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I bought a Pelican 1750 last night. Thinking of returning it. It is very heavy, 25 pounds for the case itself. Very awkward just moving around the house when full. I didn't cut the foam yet.
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The only thing I'm skeptical about with the Winchester is the electronic keypad. Read the reviews. Several people had big trouble. Wish it was a combination lock.
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I guess for the fire aspect I would mostly be worried about old family pictures, laptop, backups, etc. I wouldn't buy a $4,000 safe to only protect a small gun collection from fire. If you have a fire big enough to scorch a safe then you will be making a claim already. Might as well get a new gun collection out of the deal.
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I have wondered if a safe is a deterrent or a magnet. Is it best to act like it will be a pain to get into it, or just hide stuff? Some people wouldn't touch it while others would concentrate on it.
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Bad part about 2011's... they make your other guns feel like toys. I'm being serious. Dry fired a whole bunch last night with the STI, immediately picked up my FNX, and was like, what a cheap piece of crap!
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The other thing I've been noticing is that not all fire ratings are the same. I mean, is a 45 minute rating at 1200 like on a Liberty any better than a 30 minute rating at 1400 on the Winchester? I have no idea.
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Go with the Winchester. Looks like a nice safe for the money. 550lbs is good but bolted to the floor is better and a 30min fire rating is nice too. The other option is to look for a nice used one locally.
I bet you will fill that thing up faster than you think.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/winchesterreg%3B-gun-safe-24-gun-capacity?cm_vc=-10005
It's that one. The fire rating concerns me the most, it's not that great. Although being out in the garage would help.
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So basically I only have a few long guns and not very many more pistols. I have no desire for a huge collection. Mostly concerned with the local smash and grab meth heads and kids keeping their paws off of what little I do have as well as storing a laptop while I'm out of town. I'm well aware that most safes can be broken in to if somebody wants to bad enough so what's the point of spending a ton on a nice safe? That being said, is an inexpensive safe acceptable if it is bolted down, kind of in a keeping honest people honest kind of way?
Am debating five things at this point:
1. A super cheap between-the-studs wall safe with something in front of it, mostly just to hide everything. $200
2. A Winchester 24 gun safe from Tractor Supply due to being able to get a discount, bolted down in the garage. $600
3. A Fatboy Junior 48 gun safe. $1,400
4. A white Liberty in the living room. $2,100.
5. A Fort Knox Protector, upgraded and painted white and shown off in the living room. $3,200.
Not sure which way to go. Feel kinda dumb getting a huge safe for 3 long guns and a laptop. The Winchester may be perfectly fine for now, could probably easily sell it in the future.
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stay away from all of the holes, just more places for dirt and grit to create a stoppage.
I ended up mostly just getting some serrations. Got a muzzle angle cut because the builder was adamant that it would be awesome but I turned down the side cuts which is where most of the reduced weight comes from. They look great but on a .40 shooting factory ammo? Makes no sense to me.
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Last night was the first time I got to fiddle with a 2011 for a while as I just picked up an STI Eagle. There were several noticable differences than the polymer guns I'm used to like my FNX-40 and Glock 35. It had quite a bit more heft, everything was tight with no slop, the slide felt like it was on ball bearings, mags were easier to seat, the stock trigger had a very crisp break that required very little movement, the mag release button was easier to push... it was tons nicer even being totally stock.
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I watched my dad drop a coyote at 120 yards with one shot out of his .44 magnum.
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Look at it this way... the remanufacturers are selling ammo with once fired brass for only $10 per 500 with .40. For the $200 it would take for a conversion barrel and 3 mags, you'd have to shoot 10,000 rounds to break even.
Plus, if it's the same gun, using .40 elsewhere outside of USPSA would be good practice. If you switch back and forth, getting used to 9mm then introducing .40 at USPSA, that may not give you the best results.
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Some people might say, ditch the Glock and go with something else. I might change out the trigger, but until I do I think I am just going to work on my trigger pull. In the process I just might become a better pistol shooter.
I didn't see this... if you use your finger tip, all lateral movement goes away. Using the base of your pad as leverage while curving your finger in will jack it to the side every time, unless you stiffen your joints and pull straight back like your finger is a lever.
However, you may be killing it when getting excited too. To be honest my Glock trigger pull sucks but if I actually aim I can hit any USPSA target I want. Meaning, I usually do the same thing you do, but it's not nearly enough to get really poor hits with. I'm not sure how it would unless you're killing the trigger.
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The Glock is a totally different story. If I focus on trigger pull, the gun is as accurate as anything I own, but if I don't pull straight back the barrel moves sideways a little at the instant the gun goes off. The movement at USPSA distances can make the difference between an alpha or a charlie or delta. There is little room for error.
That's why you get an aftermarket trigger with the overtravel removed, and/or use the tip of your trigger finger and not the base of the pad.
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From a personal competitive standpoint I like the 8+1 too. The long tubes are ugly
I think it's only ugly if it sticks out way past the end of the barrel. I hope so at least. I'm putting a +7 on my 26" Benelli, which should make it flush with the barrel with an extended choke tube. Get a +9/10 on a shorter barrel and yeah it's kinda funny looking. I've always wondered how they handle and swing.
Just a guess but I'm assuming the 8 round limit came up because that's the most that any factory gun has. Anything beyond that is aftermarket no matter what gun you have.
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I feel like at this point my biggest problem is being overwhelmed. I've got 100 things going through my head... don't sweep your arm, watch the 180, don't blow your foot off when drawing, mag change coming up, don't trip, did I hit that target well? Maybe one more shot just to make sure... too much to process and everything I do ends up being slow. Need more experience more than anything. Plus it feels really weird being totally cool with slinging lead in the general direction of a target and being happy with a sub-par hit due to being able to shave off a bunch of time since you did that. Need to not be so OCD about it, plus more experience will reveal which targets I can make gains with by doing this I suppose.
Guess I'll be hitting some of these drills as a start.
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Plus I'm just slow in general. There's always that.
But yeah thanks for the advice. Got a lot to learn. -
Some religions (Buddhism) and eastern practices (yoga, martial arts) lean heavily on Zen based concepts, but Zen in itself, which is primarily physical actions and tricks that produces alpha waves in the brain, is not a religion.
That's about on the same level as asking if praying is a religion. Well... no. Do some religions utilize it? Sure.
When I was running track, I could get a self-induced runner's high. I was quite addicted to the feeling, felt on top of the world, no pain, total natural euphoria. I knew the physical tricks to make my body do that, and I felt better and more alert when that happened. Does that make it a religion? No. Same with Zen techniques.
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impressive! Got a link to the scores for the match?
https://www.practiscore.com/match-results/uuid?uuid=333AEF81-D045-4965-8133-1AB5F89772A6
Like I said, I'm a total newbie and very SLOW, which does me absolutely no good to get a bunch of points just to have a bad time. I only mentioned this because I have a hard time believing that the increased "accuracy" of a 2011 in itself would have helped me one bit, pretty much what Jesse said seems to be true.
Could it have helped me go FASTER, IF I knew what I was doing, in which I do not?
Maybe. I just don't get what the increased accuracy alone is going to gain anybody if a total noob with a G35 can be at the top in terms of hit points due to actually lining the sights up. Itty bitty steel way out there may be a totally different story though, these were USPSA targets all within 25 yards, most at a max of probably more like 20. The other guys there were friggin amazing BTW, just insanely fast, I'm nowhere near on their level and am not trying to sound like I am. Also interesting that 2 of the top 5 were running Glocks, one of which was a G19 with night sights in a concealed carry IWB holster.
Accuracy smackurracy. -
Chances are that any gun off of the gun counter would be capable of shooting full match points if time were not a factor. The challenge of the sport is balancing accuracy and speed to achieve an optimum score. Being able to shoot points is important but in my opinion pushing for speed and accuracy is what separates this sport from the casual shooters plinking away at the range.
I don't disagree with that. Hell even if you're shooting 3 foot groups at 10 yards, if you can see where you're hitting, just keep shooting until you have two A's.
bad combination? - TTI basepads and Dawson magwell
in Gear & Accessories
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So I put my new Taran basepads on my G35 mags then go to seat them through the Dawson magwell. Basically what is happening is that the little stick/stopper thingy that keeps the base pads from sliding off the mag will hit the magwell and push it down. It's not tightened down so it will push it down to the point where it's almost flush with the top but not quite. Should I just tighten them down at that point, or take a drill/dremel to the plastic on the bottom of the magwell so the stopper thingy is up higher and more flush with the bottom?