bluedevil008
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Posts posted by bluedevil008
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On 10/23/2023 at 2:40 PM, seako_916 said:
I had double feed issues on one stage with NEW Rune spring and follower in factory chrome tube with TTI pad but after that stage and unloading and reloading the mag, it worked.
Like brand, brand new? You should always run your magazines through a few full loads before running in a match! The springs often need a couple cycles to break in.
I have the full MBX magazines, and henning/mecgar/rune tactical setups. The MBX have become my training magazines, and the henning/mecgar are match magazines. I don't love the coating on the MBX magazines as they are a little stickier in the gun, and they also don't hold as many rounds. I can squeeze 24 in the henning/mecgar/rune but haven't done enough testing to see if I get 24+1 start reliably. Certainly I wouldn't try to reload to the 24 in a match as it requires way too firm of a push to be consistent in a match.
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It appears the silicone lube significantly reduced the frequency with which this was happening. So there's definitely some validity to cases being stuck to the case pusher slide, especially since I use case lube.
Still not 100% but getting closer. Next I need to figure out exactly what to adjust to prevent over-insertion of the case into the shellplate as I think it's springing back a little.
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The shellplate is the right tightness, if I go any tighter, it would start affecting a smooth operation.
I'll give the loosening and tightening a try, however, I don't see how that would affect the horizontal plane at all, which is the issue. It's not a depth of the die issue.
I'll also give it a good clean. Press is new and I've only loaded maybe 4k on it so far, and this has been an issue since day one. Will also make sure to look at over/under inseration.
Thanks for all the advice, will report back the results I get.
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Yes, sorry I'm looking at PO. I have 2 Shadow 2s, one with the CZC slide cuts, and the other without. So it looks like I'll run the second one at this match. Thanks for your help folks.
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Not new to reloading, have a few years on a 650, took a break and now on a 750. As I pull the handle up, often my 9mm brass is getting stuck on the outside lip of the resizing die (cheaper Lyman resizing/decapping die). The brass is getting inserted all the way into the shellplate on the downstroke, but during the upstroke, the brass seems to slide back out a couple mms and which causes it to catch on the edge. I've never had this issue before on a 650 and I can't find it on a troubleshooting guide. How do I prevent the brass from sliding back out just a tad in Station 1? My only idea right now is to get a better resizing/decapping die that has a bigger funnel and is more suited for a progressive press.
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Need someone with experience with IPSC division rules, as I'm looking to shoot Nats and I've never done an IPSC comp before. I just read the division rulebook and somethings aren't necessarily super obvious to me.
1) I have a Shadow 2 with CZC slide lightening on it (slide ported between ejection port and front sight, and more material taken off of the bottom part that holds the recoil spring. Is this allowed or does the slide need to be completely stock?
2) I have an EemanTech Ultimate trigger in my Shadow 2's, is this authorized (same profile/contour)?
Aftermarket trigger assemblies are permitted, subject to 16 above. A trigger assembly is defined as a mechanism that, once the trigger is pulled, activates the firing sequence of a firearm. Note that, if the original trigger includes a trigger safety, then the aftermarket trigger must also include a trigger safety.
3) I have Patriot Defense aggressive grip panels. Are these allowed?
Aftermarket grip panels which match the profile and contours of the OFM standard or optional grip panels for the approved handgun and/or the application of tape on grips (see Appendix E3a) are permitted.
4) Is there a maximum weight for the handgun? I see no mention of it in the rules. i.e. I have both aluminum and brass grip panels, so can I go with heavier if authorized.
Thanks for your assistance!
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Henning BP's
in CZ
I have both. I haven't ran the magwell ones without the magwell yet so I can't comment on the over-insertion. However, the magwell ones did not seat fully in my S2 with a LOK brass magwell. This was a 20 second fix, as I just marked on the magwell where the basepads were rubbing, and took off a tiny bit of material with a dremel to allow the basepads to sit. Oddly enough, now the non-magwell basepads work with the magwell too.
All that said, the Henning's are my favorite basepad I've ran out of any so far. I've had occasional issues with Taran, Springer, MBX over the years.
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Ok, I fixed the issue! I was able to remove the grittiness and "catching" in the reset by oiling in between the frame and trigger bar. I had to completely remove the pre-travel screw form the Eeman Tech to allow it to reset in DA.
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5 minutes ago, darthdively said:
This is something to definitely check out. Just before going this, try adding oil between the trigger bar and the side of the frame. When I first got my S2 it would get stuck and a little oil helped. It has smoothed out and worked itself out since then and I don't have to worry about it so much.
Does this issue happen with the factory trigger return spring?
Thanks for all the advice folks! Lots of quick replies. I will try messing with the trigger bar spring. In person, it seems like a likely culprit as my gut feeling is that the trigger bar is one of the primary issues.
Then I'll go back to re-installing the factory parts.
Good to know on the brass disco, I really like this Ultimate trigger, I have it on my other S2 with no issues, so I'm going to try and make this one work.
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Team,
I'm new to the CZ world. All of my research on Shadow 2 trigger issues, and I haven't been able to find this specific issue described. Once the trigger is pulled and the hammer goes down, the trigger does not reset. But the most bizarre thing is that there is almost no pressure on the trigger bar/trigger to return forward. It feels like it's rubbing against something.
This goes for both DA/SA mode. The trigger is an Eeman Ultimate, and I just installed the eeman brass disco, however, the issue existed with the old disco as well. I have not done any material removal to it yet, as I'm not sure that will fix the issue. Also, previously, it had a CZC trigger in it, the gun WOULD operate, but the reset would often get caught up and feel like it's rubbing, with the new trigger, it now feels like it every time and is not operational. I completely stripped the frame and cleaned it. Pre and post travel screws are set to maximum range of motion.
These two very quick videos demonstrate the issue:
https://youtube.com/shorts/Qhibm4_cyTU?feature=share
Any and all help is much appreciated!
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Compete with Sig X5 Legion with DPP
Carry 320 XCompact with EFLX
M18 at work
bedside gun is an M&P 9 Pro with Venom (will eventually replace with eflx or rmr.
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17 hours ago, echotango said:
I have 3 aligns. Got rid of the other one version. So much better. 1 is for my wife who has tiny hands(think 4yr old). Her grip is cut down to the maximum allowed and she can reach it fine.
How does cutting down the grip change anything for your support hand? You're not changing the center axis of the grip because you can't move the magazine, trigger, and slide lever in relation to each other?
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Thread's been quiet for a bit, anyone got to play with one? I'm not a fan of the thumb rest [generic] version or the Align. I have smaller hands and then way I grip the gun means my thumb barely touches the end of the takedown lever... so I get zero leverage/placement on the "shelf." This one appears to fix that issue. I'd be happy to drop money a custom holster for it.
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I have an old (first year production) XFive and a Legion, both with GrayGuns kits in them. The X5 probably has 1.5-2K whereas my Legion probably has 5K. Both did 2" groups with 135" coated bullets at 25 yards with me resting off a sandbag... plenty good enough for me. Opted to run the X5 over the legion as my primary this year because the spring setup seems perfect to me, still working on trying to get that perfect on the Legion. Also, the GG flat trigger has a slightly better break for me, even though my curved GG in the Legion is a slightly lighter pull. Both have the same travel and reset.
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49 minutes ago, Lingering said:
Total cost I think would technically be more to stick with the CZ. Milling at CGW is $160/$415, not including shipping, etc. From browsing the classifieds I feel like I could probably get ~$1,000 for it? X-5s are running $900-1000 locally, so I'm already saving nearly $200 to put towards an optic.
I also feel like Sig is a more future-proof platform, with its FCU design, and I think a better optic mounting solution vs direct milling. I've also heard people are moving away from full 5" guns to 4-4.5" slides in CO due to the better balance. Shadow 2 is incredibly front-heavy.
I know it really doesn't matter and the answer is just to get good, so I may end up changing my mind. I also asked The HumbleMarksman and he gave the same advice. Highest-ranked shooter whose brain I've been able to pick about it. I appreciate y'alls thoughts.CO has been won every year except the last by a polymer gun. Limited and production are still won by polymer guns fairly frequently. For 99% of people, your shooting ability is holding you back, not the gun.
All else equal, you're looking at only a percent or two difference in what a platform can do for your standings.
The biggest factor for me is the amount of time and stress I save from shooting a striker-fired gun. I can shoot whatever ammo, I barely have to clean it. I don't really have to replace parts if I don't want to. I haven't had that much time to dedicate to shooting in the last few years, so this was a priority for me over absolute peak performance out of the gun.
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But you have to run a light for the holster to work. That's what I did at multigun Nats, though I ran a modified 6300 series from Ghostmen designs because I believe Safariland just started offering this X5 holster very recently.
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I'm all for it. I probably won't buy this particular gun, but if they can get it to work and keep mags affordable, a steel grip will be in the near future by them or another company no doubt, and then it'll be a major player.
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I don't know anyone running 30 in big sticks. I've heard it's possible but reliability is questionable, and it certainly won't be reloadable. I would aim for 29 with full reliability. I use MBX 170s that run 29 reliably from the factory. I have a couple 170 STI Gen 2s that I will mess with by putting Grams guts in and a TTI base plate to see what I can get.
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15 hours ago, Jcgatus said:
In all reality, those guys have won before without it. Max won the big three in 2014 without it.
There are studies and videos of it online by people who were trying to master a musical piece, a marathon runner, and a dancer.
It supposedly primes their brain to be receptive. But, i think their daily practice was what contributed to the improvements.
I would wear them too and tell people online that i got this good because of this if they were paying me 3k for a fb shoutout.
Not sure if thats how much it is. Id rather take Max Michel's shooting supplements and dope up for my next local match.
Hahaha yeah the shooting supplement thing is a stretch. I doubt that will be around for long. At least the Nueroscience is a new concept for consumers.
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9 hours ago, Slide4949 said:
sorry to change subject but still taking about a Atlas open gun. I just order a Atlas 38 SC open gun and I'm a bit confused about the barrel holes. I told them my wrist were not as strong as they used to be so he suggested just 2 holes instead of 3. Said it would not have as much snap and dot would not move as much. That sounds good so what would 3 holes do ?
That doesn't make any sense to me. From what I've seen the 38SC have 3 holes and 9major has 2. One of the advantages to 38SC is being able to generate more gas, but that gas is only helpful if you use it to mitigate recoil... aka use more holes. Adam should be able to provide you with a good reason if he is suggesting it.
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Literally nothing in this thread will be said that wasn't already said in the thread at the bottom of the page...
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16 hours ago, DCSigCZ said:
I polished the FCU and the trigger bar where they contact each other. I also installed the complete Gray Guns Competition kit - sear, springs and trigger. My trigger pull force was down to 2.1 lbs. I did not like that because both the trigger release and reset were mushy.
I replaced the trigger bar spring with the OEM one that came in the pistol. That raised the trigger pull to 2 lb. 5 oz. but the trigger action was still not as crisp as I need. So I next put an old OEM SIG Trigger Bar Spring that I purchased as a Certified Armorer spare parts kit right when the P320 was released. I installed that TRS because it was notably stiffer than the GG TRS and the OEM spring that came in my X5 that was built in mid 2018. That did what I needed - it made the trigger pull, release and rest crisp enough while only raising the trigger pull to 2 lb. 7 oz.
Regarding a soft or indistinct reset:
> Do not lubricate the action parts inside the sear housing. They are all plated to increase lubricity and fly against conventional practice of needing lubrication.
> You can also try higher power sear and trigger bar springs.
Regarding a choppy reset:
> As a SIG P320 Armorer, it is always best for me to see and hear and feel the action in order to properly diagnose it via observation and logic. That being understood, here is a logical approach.
> Be certain that all parts reassembled properly and are positioned properly. There are small parts and springs that can easily be in an incorrect position when re-assembled and then in operation.
> Be certain no parts are binding during their entire range of motion.
> Try higher power springs.
> Be certain all contact points outside the sear housing are properly lubricated.
> Test the entire firing pin block system for grit and roughness. This is an often overlooked source of a bad trigger system action and feel.
Fantastic information, thanks. I did not install the full kit, just the trigger, so the trigger bar spring is still factory. I also chopped off a couple of coils from ONE of the sear springs. This was an experiment because I had read of people removing one sear spring with success, but I didn't want to go to that length. Could certainly be that, but the amount of spring tension and noise I feel during reset is undoubtedly coming from the trigger bar spring. I did not lubricate anything, just added grease to the same location as it was from the factory and where Alma recommended in his disassembly video: where trigger bar meets FCU housing.
I'll go put a few hundreds rounds through it for function testing and see if 'breaking it in' again helps with any of it. Long term plan has always been to get a professional trigger job done it and I don't plan on competing in production or CO very competitively.
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Good to know. I put it back together and seems to function fine dry-fire wise.
Side note, I installed the PELT and polished the sear, FCU housing, and trigger bar. I reassembled and probably chopped 1.5-2 pounds off the pull with less travel it seems, BUT the reset is VERY choppy and doesn't seem to reset with as much force. It feels like the trigger return spring is rusted or something. Any idea on what is going on?
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I may be making this up in my head but I think I remember Phil Strader talking about a .40 X5 in the works.
Are MBX Mags for a Shadow 2 Worth It?
in CZ
Posted
I have three MBX magazines and they have been relegated to practice magazines only. The coating on them is not near as smooth as Mec-Gar, so they are more prone to sticking when empty and trying to drop out of the gun. Additionally, mine only hold 22+1, which is a bit off what I can get reliably from mec-gar + henning + rune tactical springs and followers (24+1).
That said, they do run reliably.