serghey24

So, fluted barrel and cut-out slide it is, then. Thank you for your advice.

Thank you bot for the advice. As for the lighter slide with lighter spring issue, I must confess that the more I read the more confused I get(and technical stuff does not easily confuse me-I am an engineer by formation, teaching high school technical subjects). But being cheap as I am, I am more concerned about the well-being of a gun that will cost me, literary, 5 month salary as a teacher, and not as concerned about the comfort of shooting. And that especially since I have to use European factory ammunition(my country does not allow reloading) in this gun. However, if the gun comes with 3 springs then it should be no problem mounting the stronger one to protect the slide and frame. Now, the only issue I will lave is to see how hard it is to get a X-Calibur without the "predaceous" see-trough-cut-outs as I find them not to be to my liking and I really doubt that the take away so much weight to make a difference. Oh, and what you would suggest: Lightly fluted or deep fluted barrel(if my memory serves me well they come in both variants)? Also, if by chance your barrel suggestion can not be easily followed(not in stock, problems in obtaining the approvals to swap the barrels on a gun, etc.), please give some advice about how really important/vital is this difference so that I could evaluate if the effort to obtain a particular barrel is worth it. I am concerned about it not being reliable with low quality/old ammunition(I know, I am in a country where the quality of ammunition is not constant, and the options are indeed limited-but the most time it is factory standard). As a rule the ammo around here is mostly 115-125 grain(even dough lately 147 grain started to cross my path more often), factory standard with the occasional bad box of old ammunition. All my best to you all. You truly are a well of information for me.

Hello again. A year and over 10k rounds have passed since I bought my K100. It is perfect, as far as I am concerned. However, due to the fact that I managed to put some funds aside I am thinking of upgrading to a X-Calibur, mk12. So, since I treasure the information received from this site a lot I return to ask: 1. I plan on keeping the spare K100 front sight and replace the FiberOptics on the X-Calibur when I shoot from holster, while training fro IDPA, to protect/save the FiberOptics in order to have them in good condition for competition. So, I am curious if the standard K100 front sight can be mounted on the X-Calibur(does it fit in the same mount, or it is not interchangeable with the FiberOptics)? 2. I noticed that the DA trigger pull is lighter on X-Calibur, compared to the K100. I suspect that it is due to a lighter hammer(main) spring. Does this make it prone to light strikes, and by this not be able to reliably digest the hard primers? 3. Since the trigger mechanism is rather different from the K100's(which surprised me by how sturdy it is), does this make it prone to failure? I mean, the trigger mechanism is as sturdy as the K100's? 4. I also noticed that the recoil spring is lighter and the slide is not heavy either(due to the cut-outs). This can not be bad for speed and/or the use of lightly loaded ammunition. But, in my case I am forced to use standard ammunition of 115-125 grain(Winchester White Box, Geco, S&B, etc.) which is rather hot and heavy, I believe, for American standards. So I am wondering if this can lead to more frame/slide failure due to heavier impact while firing(the slide being slowed by a weaker recoil spring and also by a weaker main spring-the slide also cocks the hammer while moving back so the hammer spring also slows it down). After all the X-Calibur is aimed for competition, where people tend to use lighter loads. Please share your thoughts on this aspect as your opinion is really appreciated. All the best.

@Canuck223: "The grease in the slide stop spring hole is there for no other purpose except to keep the spring from falling out during handling at the bench." Ha-ha-ha. I must admit that it is exactly what crossed my mind. Discarded the thought because it would have made more sense in my mind(it would have been cheaper on the long run) to design a spring with a little conicity-almost cylindrical(the base of the conical spring fitted inside the whole in the insert) or even better a cylindrical sprig that has the last coil bent outwards a little-just to catch a little on the walls of that hole in the insert. -If Mr. Jaroslav decides to use this idea I will become very rich if he sends me 50% of the money he will save on grease . Well, your choice in oil makes sense you being located in Canada. In my more continental-temperate climate(very dusty/dirty/muddy in the late years) I guess that a 10W40 will work just fine for the barrel, slide cross pins. The grease for the insert I decided that a lithium base moly grease(nr. 2 thickness preferably) will be the best choice for me since it is rare in my area and therefore more susceptible of being of good quality. The reason for deciding on grease is simply because, as you stated, it will remain in place longer. Well, anyway, I thank you again for the information.

@NicVerAZ: Thought about it myself. But for the rails/frame fit and barrel pivoting pin area(places normally lubed at field stripping). Already ensured a supply of sewing machine oil. But for now I have some half filled Balistol containers from a friend that no longer uses it. In my case it works good both as a cleaner and as a gun oil-I do not like it because it comes in a pressurized spray container. I was asking about grease on the trigger bar because that is what was there originally and I think that perhaps there is a reason. Especially since grease is more expensive than oil and it was applied relatively generously-those 2 facts need to have a strong reason because they where done by the factory, and all factories are cost conscious, no?). Also, in my mind grease seem to be more logical in that application(trigger bar-sear area) because: -it is a relatively hard to get area(requires 2 pins to be taken of so it is not field striping) so the lubing is not done on a regular basis. Some people never detail strip their guns -it is important that the lubrication remains on place(oil tends to run of or even evaporate over time but grease remains there) -it is not a particularly dirty area so the grease's ability to attract dirt/lint is not a big issue So, this is why I ask about the grease: to know how much(my feeling is that the less the better-but how less?) and where to apply it. I am interested in what type of grease can be used because I guess that it requires to function on a higher temperature than the surroundings(it is after-all inside the pistol's frame in relative vicinity of the firing chamber). And, also the grease's thickness could influence the trigger feel(to thick and it will harden the trigger, too thin and it will run of in time). I care a lot about this gun and this is why I would like to maintain it as better as I can with the limited resources I have available so pleases offer your advice on the matter as it will be greatly appreciated.

Hy again. @ Canuck223: I used your advice and detail stripped the gun. It came off quite easily. Took off the slide stop very easily and I think that the issue is solved. However I noticed that there was substantial amounts of grease on the lower side of the insert(on the part that houses the slide stop spring). To have such generous amounts of grease in that place? Or it is just my gun oil mixed with gunpowder residue(I generously lubed the gun once, by mistake)? I also would like to ask if, where and how much grease needs to be applied on the trigger bar(back part, upper part, underside, etc.-please advise). Because, as I took the insert out I noticed that it was covered with some dark colored grease. In both cases I cleaned the surfaces(sometimes I am not very bright). But now I think that maybe it was just a graphite grease to ensure smooth trigger bar movement. Now, I guess that the trigger bar need some lubrication but I would not like to put too much or in the wrong place(I have ever seen this type of hammer/ sear sub assembly so I do not know if and where does it like to be greased). Also, since in my country, dedicated gun grease is basically non existent I would like to ask what kind of grease needs to be used there: standard grease(think the type used to grease the wheel axles), special grease(silicone grease maybe)? Or some other type of grease? Could gun oil do the job? Or even motor oil(it is a little thicker) maybe? How often need this greasing need to be redone to ensure that that fantastic trigger pull is maintained?

Just saw the video. He sure is fast. It makes me happy when I see that talent(in any form that the talent might come, not just shooting) has not been wasted and that such a kid had the opportunity to use and improve his skills.

@Canuck223: Thank you a lot for the information. The procedure seem a bit laborious but I think I will manage it when the time comes. Until then all I have to do is to visit the local flea market to buy some pin punches of the correct size.

Well, I have done some more shooting today and I have discovered the cause of my frustrations: 2.The slide stops: I noticed something strange: If I actuate the slide stop on the RIGTH of the gun then it will move up in the notch in the slide fully on that side. But on the other side(the left side of the gun) the slide stop will be at about half the notch on that side of the slide. In this situation(and of course without a magazine inside the gun), If I jiggle the gun, even slightly the slide will forward on its own(the slide stops will jump out of the notch in the slide). But, If I actuate the right slide stop and then push the left one fully in the corresponding notch then the slide is locked more firmly to the back(I can still jiggle the gun so that it releases the slide but I need to shake it more violently). and 3.Another thing about the slide stops: They are very sensitive. Only a slight push on them and they will release the slide forward. Now, this is not necessarily a bad thing because it allows the user to actuate them without moving the fingers too much. But, I prefer to not use them to release the slide(I prefer to slingshot) so it is very frustrating when, in order to mark my targets, I put the gun on the shooting table(no magazine in, slide locked back-so that nobody will freak out with fear that there might be a live round in the chamber and at the same time the gun will be ready to accept a new magazine). Because in 9 cases out of 10 I hear the slide forwarding(because the table touches the slide stops) on empty chamber. And that is something that I hate. They both can be traced to the slight asymmetry of the slide stop. Basically the left shoulder(the part that enters the notch on the slide) is 1mm lower compared to the right one. So, if one pushes up on the right one(like a left hand shooter would do with his left thumb to ensure that the slide stays back) it will go all the way in the corresponding notch while on the other side it will just barely catch and thus creating a very unreliable stop(it is not positively holding the slide back). But this is not an issue for those that engage the left slide stop(right handed shooters), because in this case they will push up on the lower shoulder until it fully enters the notch and the slide stop has a little elasticity/give that allows both shoulders to firmly enter the corresponding notches. The same happens if the magazine follower is pushing up the slide stop(the flower engages the slide stop on the left side-so it all comes together). So, since the slide is OK(measured it with a very precise caliper) I decided that the first time I will detail strip the pistol I could take the slide stop and bend the left shoulder so that it will get 1 mm higher. Please, if some more experienced users or users that encountered the same issue on this handgun can comment on this, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, If you have another idea that might solve this issue please share it with me. Oh, and by the way, what is the most simple way to take the slide stop lever of the gun so that I can try to work on it?

Lighter hammer springs? I do not know about you but I would certainly leave that as it is(hard). With the kind of inconsistent/dubious ammo/primer quality that I know that I will most likely encounter I will certainly like the advantages of a strong hit on the firing pin. And anyway, if one shoots it in SA then the lighter spring has practically no influence. But, once again, I am not living on the American Continent, so my opinion is purely academic.

The ordering of a new slide is not feasible for me because it bears a serial number and in order to do this in my country one has to go trough a very complicated procedure that can last up to 2 month and cost a lot of effort. The e-mail part to the factory might be a winning idea. I will give the gun a few more shooting sesions, to make sure that it is not a "break in" issue. The filing of the slide notches can be done relatively easy and precise. The only issue I see on this plan is that the filing will take of the Tenifer treatment(which I understand that is about 0.5mm thick) in the notch. And that will definitely make the notch wear of more easily and probably will be a spot where the slide will theoretically rust. And my number 3 issue is only happening when I engage the right slide stop(happening after a left hand shooting) and lay the pistol on its left side. When I engage the left one(sometimes I shoot right handed), It engages more firmly(issue number 2 in my previous post). So, if one is right handed, might never engaged the slide stop on the right side of the gun.

Hy again. After playing a bit with my new K100 I got a few tings that I would like to ask you all: 1.The fast forwarding feature(stick a fresh magazine inside the gun and the slide will forward WITHOUT having to actuate the slide stop or slingshot it): It freaks me out a little bit because, at least my pistol, is very sensitive. I mean that if the magazine is filled to its capacity(all 17 rounds) I just need to push it inside the gun and the slide will forward. Basically, in this case I can not put a new magazine in without the gun automatically forwarding the slide, no matter how gentle I push the magazine in. If the mag is not fully filled then the fast forwarding happen only if I tap the magazine in with more determination. To be honest, I do not care much about this feature(I prefer the slide to remain back until I decide to let it go into battery). 2.The slide stops: I noticed something strange: If I actuate the slide stop on the RIGTH of the gun then it will move up in the notch in the slide fully on that side. But on the other side(the left side of the gun) the slide stop will be at about half the notch on that side of the slide. In this situation(and of course without a magazine inside the gun), If I jiggle the gun, even slightly the slide will forward on its own(the slide stops will jump out of the notch in the slide). But, If I actuate the right slide stop and then push the left one fully in the corresponding notch then the slide is locked more firmly to the back(I can still jiggle the gun so that it releases the slide but I need to shake it more violently). Do that happen on your pistols also? Is there a way to make the slide stops hold the slide more firmly? 3.Another thing about the slide stops: They are very sensitive. Only a slight push on them and they will release the slide forward. Now, this is not necessarily a bad thing because it allows the user to actuate them without moving the fingers too much. But, I prefer to not use them to release the slide(I prefer to slingshot) so it is very frustrating when, in order to mark my targets, I put the gun on the shooting table(no magazine in, slide locked back-so that nobody will freak out with fear that there might be a live round in the chamber and at the same time the gun will be ready to accept a new magazine). Because in 9 cases out of 10 I hear the slide forwarding(because the table touches the slide stops) on empty chamber. And that is something that I hate. Maybe I was "exposed" to different handguns-mostly European, but, in my experience at least, the slide stops can release the slide only if the user pushes down on them with some determination. Please comment on this also. Now, it passed my mind that perhaps he notches on the slide are a tad to shallow, or perhaps they are cut at a slight angle to the back. Is it wise to put a very thin diamond file on them in order to make them deeper(by a hair thickens, no more) and also to make sure that the angle of their back is pointed towards the front of the gun(and by that ensuring that the slide will catch on the slide stops more firmly-even it might mean that the fast forwarding and the easy releasing of the slide by pushing down the slide stops will no longer be possible)?

Yes, mine does that too. A slight click right at the beginning of the SA trigger pull(I can not even estimate how much I need to pull the trigger before it does that click-something in the vicinity of the thickness of a human hair). I guess it is the reset point, if I pull the trigger, while holding the hammer and lowering it in a controlled fashion for about 1/3 of its total travel(and then hold it there with my fingers-I just put my finger between the hammer and the firing pin) and then slowly release the trigger I can definitely hear the same click in the same trigger position. So, if I stop the trigger forward motion before the click it will not release the hammer if I re-cock it. If I hear the click then it will release the hammer.

Well, I finally managed to get the K100. I must say that now, after a more thorough evaluation of the handgun I came to the following conclusions: 1. My eyeballing was terrible off when I first evaluated the slide/frame looseness and the off center position of the back sight. This makes me worry(genuinely) since until now my eyeballing was always exact. There is minimal looseness between slide and frame. Also the back sight is off center but by just a fraction of a millimeter. 2. After performing some dry fire drills I came to the following conclusions: -the trigger is indeed beautiful and the sights are also very nice, especially considering that this is the standard K100 mk7. -the magazine release is a little stiff at the beginning but after you use it a few times(actually around 100 times) it became easier to actuate it by either the thumb or the trigger finger. I would recommend purchasing the larger button if it is intended for soft skinned fingers or if the user plans on using it a lot(small magazine capacity). -the magazines: the standard 15 round magazines(the ones with longer, red/orange follower) can accommodate 16 rounds(after filing and emptying them a few times to loosen up), loading them manually. The 17 rounds magazines(the ones with shorter, black follower) can accommodate 17 rounds only if I force the last one in by using a metal tool to push on the rounds-which is rather strange. -in manipulating the slide(weak hand over the top manner) a person with medium/large hands might cover the ejection port with the fingers(or with the palm if he/she is a lefty). So this method requires a lot of practice to ensure that the grip of the weak hand on the slide is exactly where it is supposed to be(not much of error margin). However, since the back sight is so beautifully rounded, it will not hurt the palm if it slides over the upper side of the frame. -the pinching method is working well in manipulating the slide. -cocking/decocking the gun is easily done with one hand because the thumb has very good and positive control over the hammer. The 2 handed method works even better, so, even with terribly oily hands I had no problem in pulling the trigger and easing the hammer down -safety is good enough, even if it does not protrude very much on the outside.

Well, tomorrow or Tuesday I will try to contact the armorer to let me take some pics and measure the side to side drift of the back slide. But how about the back sights? Is it normal for them to be placed off center in the dovetail, by an estimate of 2 mm, related to the center of the slide? Do they calibrate the sights of each gun in the factory, to shoot POA before final packing? Or they just put them in the dovetail and let the final owner to calibrate them to suit his/her shooting stile?

@Canuck223 The gun is currently in the armorer's vault(need some last minute paperwork). Monday I will go with a caliper(unfortunately my caliper has a precision of 0.1mm so it is not the best, but it will suit this purpose and with a camera to take pictures and a more detailed measurement. However, the gap is very noticeable both by hand and eye(looking at the gun from the back). What amazed me is that the locking is very firm in the front. Because if the loosens would be present in the front of the slide, it would have made more sense to me. Also, absolutely no looseness between the front of the slide and the front of the frame(I would have suspected that that would be more likely due to the frame being made of flexible material and to the fact that the rails are situated towards the back of the gun). The barrel also fits very well(almost like it is welded to the frame and slide) when the gun is in battery. Absolutely no give, no movement on the front side of the gun. Another aspect is that the back sight is a little to the left in the dovetail fitting, and that makes me think that it was adjusted in the factory's shops so that the gun shoots where it is aimed at. The deviation of the back sight is about 2 mm to the left of the center of the dovetail in which it is fixed. Is this common? Unfortunately in my area it is very difficult to try a weapon before all the paperwork has been done and you own it. So I have to rely solely on other means of judging it. But, how about your K100's? How is the slide/frame fit on them. I am not asking about your competition guns, because I suspect that those would be more fitted. Since I have no false illusions regarding my marksman skills, I am quite aware that the gun is far more accurate than I and that many rounds will have to be shoot until I can say that "the gun missed, not me". Also, from my limited experience with firearms of different makings(mostly European) the K100 seem quite well made and designed with good finishing on the metal parts(both on the visible and on the non visible sides) and I am pretty sure that the gun performs well. But still this thought troubles me(I am a perfectionist by both nature and occupation), and I am curious how greater slide/frame loosens other similar pistols have.

Hy again. I have chosen a K100 standard after all. I went for the standard(not Dinamic/Target) because it is the first personal gun(it wil be used for target shooting only) so I decided to go with the basics for ease of second-hand selling in the future as I will hopefully require a better target pistol. Now, I noticed that the slide/frame fit is somehow strange: The front of the slide locks with the barrel and the frame very firmly but the back of the slide(the part near the hammer) is relatively loose(I can jiggle it for a total of about 1, maybe 2 mm left to right-that is 0.04-0.08 inch if you prefer the Anglo-Saxon units). Vertically there is no observable looseness. Also, since the back of the slide can travel so much left to right, does this not affect the theoretical accuracy of the aiming? Because if the back of the aiming device can drift(randomly) lets say 1.5mm, but the barrel and the front sight remains firm that can lead to a serious horizontal drift of the POA(theoretical lack of accuracy-I know that the shooters is usually the weaker link in the chain of target shooting). so, I will calculate the theoretical drift of the POA on a arbitrary chosen distance: back sight drift(relative to the front sight and barrel): 1.5mm sight radius: 160mm(K100 distance between the front and back sights) distance to target: 10m(aprox 10 yards) That means that the POA drift on the target is 1.5mmx10m/160mm, after conversing all to mm it will be: 1.5x10000/160=93mm=3.7 inch If the distance to target is increased to 15m(15 yards) then the drift is about 140mm=5.5inch At 25m(26 yards) the drift is 234mm=9.2inch-I know that his is pushing it a bit too far but I just want to back up my theory. Which is a lot. Now, I wonder if your guns have similar looseness in the back side of the slide and if that influences your marksmanship(resulting in a horizontally spread of the hits on target). Please share a thought on this aspect. If you can provide some numbers(estimation of your pistol's slide to frame jiggle) that would be even better. All the best.

Thank you Sir, for your answer. This kind of owners first had experience is exactly what I was hoping to get. Also, since in my country it is difficult to reload(especially military type ammunition like the 9x19mm) legally, I intend to use the pistol mostly with factory ammunition(although the Romanian 9x19 mm ammunition is not the best quality/consistency). So, if you are able to get 500+ rounds trough your gun using reloads, I can count on the same number with the Romanian factory ammunition. And that is more than enough since the ammunition is rather expensive in my country( 9x19 is approx. 0.33$/bullet, the .45ACP is about 0.66$/bullet). So, it is not likely that I will afford to shoot 500+rounds/ session. More likely around 100 to 200 rounds. Anyway, thank you for the input once again.

Hello. I come again with my question: Can anyone tell me if the GP K100 is more sensitive to dryness and dirt than an let's say average gun(like the CZ, Sig, Steyr, and so on)? I know that the wear of the pats is greater if the gun is used in such conditions. So my question is about the actual ability to operate the gun in less than perfect conditions. Is it so sensitive to those conditions as others say(because I hear mixed opinions on this from different sources-and since this is a thing that only an owner that puts a lot of rounds trough it can say I can not find out myself unless I buy it)? How many rounds have you fired it without maintenance(between cleaning and oiling/lubrication) and without FTF's, FTE's and FTC's?

Dear Sir, I have to say that your posts are very well documented and explain the issue very well. Regarding the "dry and dirty": I was not suggesting that this is the way to use a fire weapon. I was just asking if this gun is more prone to incidents if fired dry and/or dirty(compared to other serious guns like CZ or Sig or S&W). Of course that I intend to use it mostly at the firing range where it will be well maintained. But, I am curious if the K100 is more sensitive to dryness and/or dirt than others. Because the larger friction surfaces and the greater mass of the rotating barrel lead me to believe that. So, I am asking you, since I am pretty sure that you have fired that weapon a lot. Regarding the bullet speed: I was just curious if there has been anyone to make a comparison between the Grand Power and its competitors. I consider it a legit question(even if I am also sure that it is only an academical debate since the differences can not be too big) because the barrel is a little shorter, the riffling is classical(not polygonal) and also the locking is a little different.

Hello again. Thank you for the information. After digging the internet for a while longer I came down to those conclusions and questions: Conclusion: I will probably go for the K100 Dynamic(provided that they can fit it with a deckoker and some sort of night sights tritium+ fiberoptics in green color). If not, I will go for the standard K100 and procure the deckoker and sights myself. Questions: 1.Since the rotating barrel has a greater mass and a greater friction surface is it not prone to dirt jams? I can not find a single reference to the reliability of the K100 in dry and dirty usage. I do not say that I advocate the neglect of any gun, I just wonder. Because I know that if one is sadistic enough, he/she could fire a CZ without any lubrication/cleaning basically forever, using crappy ammunition and so on. So, I am interested if any of you have some thoughts on this matter. This issue interest me a lot since, in the situation when I need to carry, I would be in a situation where I would need a reliable weapon, that can function dry and dirty. 2.From the motion picture on the YouTube where is filmed a K100 discharge in slow motion( at 00:02), one could observe a burnt gasses leak on the ejection port area. That leads me to the conclusion that there might not be a very tight fit between the components. Is this true? Because of this, a part of the gases might end up in the face of the shooter/bystander or on his hand, instead of propelling the bullet faster down the barrel. So I am wondering if any of you had this problem. Also, any of you have done a comparison test on the bullet speed as it leaves the barrel between the K100 and its competitors(tilting barrel competitors)?

Dear Sir, I thank you for the fast and comprehensive answer. In fact from my location is easier to get to the Slovakian factory than it is to get to Bucharest(where is the shooting range you mentioned). It has to do with the dubious quality of the roads ion my country and with the fact that now the holliday season is approaching so there are a lot of drivers on the already nasty roads. But this is of little concern since I talked to the Romanian distributor and, he arranged that I will have the chance to test them both(X-Calibur and K100) in my city in the near future. If everything goes as planed, then I will post my very UN-professional impression regarding the X-Claibur. The holster was another issue for me because in this part of the world the holsters are Makarov/Walther onr Glock orientated. Also it is relatively hard to find holsters for large frame handguns. And from what I could see, colleagues of mine that carry the T(from traumatic as in non-lethal) version have really big problems in finding a decent holster for it. So I thank you for the hint regarding where to buy a good holster.

@canuck223: Dear Sir, thank you for the valuable information provided. I do not live in USA(although this is one of the greatest regrets of my adult life ). I live in Romania in Eastern Europe and in relative proximity to Slovakia. And the X-Calibur is available here. The price is a little stiff( about $1380). The K100 is cheaper(about $740). But the price is not exactly the main reason of my asking. The reason is that I tend to be a more efficient shooter with a longer sight radius and barrel. So, in my opinion a barrel length of 4.5"-5.0" is optimum in combining relative ease of carry and good performance. The idea of fitting a 120mm barrel in an K100 frame is not very appealing to me because the sight radius remains the same and the rotating barrel is more exposed This is why I first thought of the CZ85(I am left handed). But this weapon has the following disadvantages for me: -unknown life expectancy(K100 is supposed to last at least 5 years because this is how long is the warranty here) -a little heavier(if i carry it on my hip I suspect that my back will hurt after a while) -the CZ representative is not nearly as nice as the Grand Power one(and since I consider the purchase of a gun a very serious business I prefer to do such business with people that can be trusted). I suspected that due to the "castelated slide" the X-Claibur does not like dirt. This is why I asked if any of you have tried to cover(fill them with resin for instance- I suspect that a bright red or a electric blue resin will look very nice) the castelations on an X-Calibur or X-Trim. Also the "-the trigger mechanism on the X-Calibur, being lighten, is more sensitive(I ask if the fine tuning has sacrificed some of the ruggedness) -another aspect is that my local distributor stated that a decocker can not be mounted on an X-Claibur(I prefer a decocker to a safety). Please share a thought on this also. " questions interest me from the perspective of people that use weapons more consistently than we use them here in Romania(the laws here are very prohibitive especially regarding handguns-I am very lucky to be able to legally own and carry one) Once again thank you for your input.

"Well, if you live in the US, the X-Calibur is not available yet. You will have to wait a bit. Also, to be honest, this is not exactly a gun that likes to get dirty, although it will most likely perform. What you are describing is a wheelie gun." Dear Sir, I do not live in USA(although this is one of the greatest regrets of my adult life ). I live in Romania in Eastern Europe and in relative proximity to Slovakia. And the X-Calibur is available here. The price is a little stiff( about $1380). The K100 is cheaper(about $740). But the [price is not exactly the main reason of my asking. The reason is that I tend to be a more efficient shooter with a longer sight radius and barrel. So, in my opinion a barrel length of 4.5"-5.0" is optimum in combining relative ease of carry and good performance. This is why I first thought of the CZ85(I am left handed). But this weapon has the following disadvantages for me: -unknown life expectancy(K100 is supposed to last at least 5 years because this is how long is the warranty here) -a little heavier(if i carry it on my hip I suspect that my back will hurt after a while) -the CZ representative is not nearly as nice as the Grand Power one(and since I consider the purchase of a gun a very serious business I prefer to do such business with people that can be trusted). I suspected that due to the "castelated slide" the X-Claibur does not like dirt. This is why I asked if any of you have tried to cover(fill them with resin for instance- is suspect that a bright red or a electric blue resin will look very nice) the castelations on an X-Calibur or X-Trim. Also the "the sport sights can catch in clotting -the “castelations” on the slide can allow the access of dirt/dust/mud more easily to the mechanism, and thus making the weapon more prone to jams/failures. Can the “castelations” be covered? -the trigger mechanism on the X-Calibur, being lighten, is more sensitive(I ask if the fine tuning has sacrificed some of the ruggedness) -another aspect is that my local distributor stated that a decocker can not be mounted on an X-Claibur(I prefer a decocker to a safety). Please share a thought on this also. " questions interest me from the perspective of people that use weapons more consistently than we use them here in Romania(the laws here are very prohibitive especialy regarding handguns-I am very lucky to be able to legally own and carry one) So please share a thought. Once again thank you for the fast reply.

Hello. I am relatively new to the shooting community. I came across your forum and I find it to be populated by people that know what they are discussing about. I am interested in one of those(K100 or X-Calibur). Which one I choose will depend on the following information that I can not find on the internet(hopefully one of you can help me out): I intend to use the gun mostly on the range. But, if the necessity arises to carry it I would also like a reliable weapon to carry. Price and size is not an issue in my case but my job imply that I walk/ride ATV’s in sometimes dusty/muddy conditions. So, when I get home sometimes I notice that there is not a single place on my body that is not dusty/muddy, this is why I suspect that a weapon placed on me will be as dirty as I am. Obviously the X-Calibur seem a better idea(really like the longer sight radius) but I am wondering if: -the sport sights can catch in clotting -the “castelations” on the slide can allow the access of dirt/dust/mud more easily to the mechanism, and thus making the weapon more prone to jams/failures. Can the “castelations” be covered? -the trigger mechanism on the X-Calibur, being lighten, is more sensitive(I ask if the fine tuning has sacrificed some of the ruggedness) -another aspect is that my local distributor stated that a decocker can not be mounted on an X-Claibur(I prefer a decocker to a safety). Please share a thought on this also. Hopefully one of you owners can help me figure this out. All the best!