LHshooter
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Posts posted by LHshooter
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
The only change to the gun was I have added an extended mag release to both.
I would buy extra mag springs and mags for that initial purchase to take advantage of the 10% discount. Recoil springs are relatively cheap in comparison. Over the next 8 months I found watching the maintenance videos that Altas puts out very helpful and they do feel they sell some tools that make working on the guns easier. You do not have to buy the tools through them as they tend to be a bit pricy, but some of them are worth it in my eyes. Atlas will allow you to add stuff to the order to take advantage of that discount as well. Something to keep in mind.
By extended mag release do you mean the "button" that screws into the tapped mag release?
I already plan on buying several mags and springs when I place my order, the shock buffs, and a couple tools I don't have.
Saving 10 bucks a mag is a pretty good deal.
I've found the videos on the Atlas website to be very informative, especially since I've never had a 1911 before.
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I've decided to bite the bullet and order an Athena and use it in USPSA LO. My first 1911-style pistol, I've always been Glock and Sig P320.
I know the pistol comes with a 9# recoil spring but am wondering if those who shoot it have made any changes. At the time I order, I will receive a 10% discount for anything else I buy and already know a few things I will add on. But, I'm not sure if I should get the 5-spring pack or maybe just add an 8# and 10# or maybe not bother at all. If I learn shooters have changed from the 9# I'll see and order something different.
Also, Atlas seems to be strong proponents of using the shock buff spacers on the guide rod. Do you continue to use them? Searching on the web I found people say they are a waste, others say they don't last long and others swear by them. Every video I've watched from Atlas shows the shock buff installed so obviously they like them.
Thanks, and now I can wait 8 months til I receive my Athena.
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16 hours ago, Llando88 said:
Engineering Notice 20231013-01 Holosun 507c X2 ACSS(r) Vulcan (r) and Sig Sauer ROMEO1 30 MM MRDS Quick Reference Cards added
Two new QRCs, one for the Holosun 507c ACSS Vulcan and one for the Sig Sauer ROMEO1 30 MM Mini Red Dot Sight, have been added to the Google drive. The new Holosun optic can be found in the "HS" (Holosun) directory in the C Series folder, while the ROMEO1 ACSS file is located under the "SI" (Sig Sauer) directory.Fabulous - thanks a lot for doing all this. Much appreciated
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The Athena can be IDPA legal is you select the "IDPA safety" and "IDPA magwell" options for your build. With those options the gun will fit in the box and it does make weight. Also, when you select mags make sure you select the 126mm with the slanted IDPA base pads.
The CS people at Atlas are VERY helpful and they can walk you through it before you commit to anything. FYI - the lead time is currently about 8 months
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On 1/18/2023 at 8:22 AM, Llando88 said:
Added QRC for the new Holosun 507COMP, large window, competition oriented optic introduced at SHOT 2023 this week.
Thank you for providing these QRC's - they are terrific. Already printed out two of them.
Any chance you can add QRC's for the Sig ROMEO1 and the Holosun 507c ACSS??
Great job, very useful items to have in the range bag.
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On 10/4/2023 at 9:21 AM, HOGRIDER said:
Your LOC will work with a lot of holster options. Red Hill Tactical has been my go to for other divisions. Great products!
I use RHT holsters exclusively for my Glocks and Sig X5. Robert makes a great product.
Thanks for the info re the Hydra P, I'll look I to it.
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I've ordered an MPA DS9 LOC pistol and am looking for race holster options. Reviewing previous posts I've found the DAA flex (more than I want to spend) and the Black Scorpion (only RH). Anyone know of other options? I won't be receiving the pistol until January so I have plenty of time to find something.
Thanks
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Late to the party but for what it's worth I had an aftermarket slide milled for my G17 for the Vortex Venom. This way I kept my oem slide intact just in case. The optic has withstood the cycling with no problems.
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2 hours ago, cheers623 said:
Primary Machine, here on the forums, can Mill the slide in front of the dovetail for your dot AND keep your iron sights. He does excellent work! Check out his website for examples of the options.
Thanks for your post - very helpful
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1 hour ago, Southpaw said:
I wouldn't want to mill a slide for a proprietary cut like the Venom, especially if you lose the dovetail cut so can't go back to irons...
That's the decision I'm grappling with. I'm on the fence.
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1 hour ago, dskinsler83 said:
the gen3 slide will work fine on a Gen4 frame. They sell an adapter to close what little gap there is but it isnt a big deal.
Thanks for that.
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1 hour ago, dskinsler83 said:
Agency arms (I think) also has a new plate system. You send your slide to them to cut it and add a plate. There are multiple options for the plate.
Thanks for that info. I checked out their website and right now they don't offer a plate option for my optic but they say they will be adding more options. I'll call them to see if the Venom is on their bucket list. If not, maybe I'll have an excuse for the wife why I need to buy another optic.
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Thanks, I did some research on those plates before deciding on milling. Seems they make the optic sit too high off the slide for my liking.
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1 hour ago, dskinsler83 said:
Just get you a lonewolf gen3 G34 slide and have them mill it.
I looked into Lone Wolf when I bought their slide for my G17. Almost positive their G34 slides are only for Gen 3, not Gen 4 or 5. I'll have to call them to verify.
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I am thinking of putting my Vortex Venom on my Glock 34 Gen 4 but not sure if what I want to do makes sense in terms of preserving the stock gun. My preferred option was to buy a stripped MOS slide, so I could maintain my factory pistol, but the asking prices are insane, almost as much as a pistol. Even the non-MOS G34 slides have crazy prices. So, I am now thinking of having my factory slide milled for my Venom. I did this for my G17 but was able to buy an aftermarket slide for the red dot, preserving my original slide. The issue is, if I have the slide milled, I will lose the rear dovetail so the slide could no longer have iron sights. I could have a new dovetail milled in front of the optic, but to me that looks stupid having the sight 2 inches farther forward from the back of the slide.
I don't plan on ever selling my pistol, but you never know. Is milling the slide and losing the dovetail a dumb thing to do? I guess I could always hope that in the future slide prices will come down to reality or reasonably priced aftermarket G34 slides will be for sale.
Anyone with an opinion please chime in, especially if you did something similar or thought about it.
Thanks
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For competition use here is my opinion. I recently put a Vortex Venom with the 6 MOA dot on my Glock 17. Since I wasn't sure I would like it and didn't want to screw around with my gun, I bought an aftermarket slide from Lone Wolf (about $180) and had the slide milled specifically for the Venom by Battlewerx ($75). I like it so much I am going to put it on my Glock 34. The Venom cost me around $219. I am impressed with the Venom so far.
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On 12/6/2019 at 9:08 AM, Rnlinebacker said:
The latest one, Breakthrough Marksmanship, as its simplified and focuses on the issue that we all have. It's been a great read and is to the point.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Is there anything new in this book that is not included in Ben's earlier books? I have Practical Pistol, Skills and Drills, and Dry Fire Training and am wondering if his latest book is trluy "new" information or if it just takes info from prior books and assembles it into a new release. It's only about $16, but based on the table of contents it looks very similar to what I have already read from Ben.
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I have Brian's book. Also 3 books by Ben Stoeger - Practical Shooting, Skills & Drills, and Dry Fire Training. Ben's books do a great job of giving both live and dry fire drills along with goals it takes to make GM. I also have a book by Saul Kirsch - Perfect Practice, that does a real good job. All are recommended. I have the first dry fire book by Steve Anderson, but I like Ben's books better.
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I'm 60 and I've been shooting local IDPA and USPSA matches for a couple years (SS in ESP, SSP, BUG; C Class in Limited and CO). I'm accurate (90%+ points in matches) but slow. I've finally decided to get serious about improving and shooting faster and am now implementing a dry fire program I hope I will stick with, (I know, what has taken me so long), and getting some live fire practice drills that make sense.
I got out Brian's book again, and more of it makes more sense now than when I first read it when I started shooting matches. In the Development section I started with Exercise 1 where you line up the sights on a wall, lower your hands, close your eyes, and remount the gun to see if the sights are still aligned. Usually the front sight is a little low and a little left (at the bottom of the notch or just slightly below, and at the left side of the notch). I've spent a lot of time adjusting my feet, relaxing my arms, fine tuning my grip, etc, but it comes up the same. Nothing I seem to do makes any difference and it's very frustrating. Brian said he can't tell how long it will take to master each exercise, but I'm not sure I'll ever get off Exercise 1. He says not to move on to the others until you master each preceding exercise, but after a while I couldn't resist. I do Exercise 2 as well as 1 and I can keep my index pretty damn good when I rotate left or right with my eyes closed. But, I want to proceed in the right order but can't seem to correct my front sight to where it is lined up in the notch almost perfectly every time.
How long did it take you to perfect this Exercise? Did you anything specific to correct your misalignment?
It sucks getting old and being frustrated.
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Thanks to all, now I know what to do.
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After a few half-ass attempts, I've finally decided to get serious about a dry fire routine. I bought the dry fire books, made spread sheets to track my progress and then never kept up with it. Now, I realize I have to get serious about dry fire if I want to progress.
The room I have to practice can handle up to 7 1/2 yds with full size targets that I placed at 5 feet high at the shoulders. I can handle up to 15 yds with 1/2 scale targets and 25 yds with 1/3 scale targets, but my question is how high do I place the scaled targets - clearly not 5 ft high at the shoulder. How high up should I place 1/2 and 1/3 targets to simulate distances? Also, should the width between targets change for the scaled targets as well?
Thanks, I appreciate any insights.
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I found this training tip last week while searching for help on the forums. I shoot IDPA and USPSA and am very accurate but slow, especially on transitions. Ran 6 of these strings at the range the other day to establish a baseline. I am going to do it one more time since the first was after a local match and I was "warmed up" and want to do it cold. Then it's on to part 2. I'm hoping this will help get this 60 year old shooting faster.
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Brian,s book was the first I bought, followed by Ben,s 3 books and all taught me something imp ortant. I really like that Ben explains in detail the training, live and dry fire, he did to make GM.
Another book I found really helpful is the one by Saul Kirsch.
Now, if I only practiced more! That is my resolution for this year.
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Sig Sights
in Sig
12 hours ago, StuckinMS said:Dawson is the way to go for sure as taadski said. They are very helpful.
X2 on the plug for Dawson - excellent products, excellent service and very reasonable prices.
P320 optic plate. DPP to Romeo3 Max
in Sig
Posted
You might check with C&H Precision. They sell all kinds of plates and may have what you need. Not crazy priced either