iflyskyhigh
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Posts posted by iflyskyhigh
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Several coated projectiles from several guns to give you some ideas.
4.0 grs is for sure the load.
There is an asterisk * by my go to load.
I ended up shorting the Precision 125gr flat points quite a bit to make them fit all my guns. As with many previous experiments, shorter COAL almost always equates to better accuracy. Exception being the open gun where the case is full.
Precision 125gr FP’s are the most accurate coated 125 I have tried so far (of course they are out of business now). Blues are pretty close if not a tie for second.
Couple instances where I haven’t chrono’d a go load, but there are chrono results on either side to give a rough idea.
125gr BBI CN
1.100” COAL
Clean Shot G34
4.0 grs 1056 FPS 10.1 SD / 28 ES *
4.1 grs 1064 FPS 9.9 SD / 29 ES (1.120”)
4.2 grs 1080 FPS 9.6 SD / 27 ES (1.120”)
4.3 grs 1089 FPS 15.4 SD / 42 ES
4.3 grs 1080 FPS 9.6 SD / 27 ES (1.120”)
4.4 grs 1096 FPS
4.5 grs 1115 FPS
Clean Shot G173.8 grs 1027 FPS ES/SD
4.0 grs 1046 FPS 11 SD / 37 ES *
4.0 grs 1045 FPS 5.5 SD / 14 ES
4.2 grs 1066 FPS 10 SD / 27 ES
4.2 grs 1068 FPS 6.7 SD / 20 ES (1.120”)
4.3 grs 1072 FPS 8.9 SD / 32 ES
4.3 grs 1069 FPS 9.5 SD / 31 ES (1.120”)
4.5 grs 1098 FPS
4.6 grs 1106 FPS
Clean Shot M17
4.0 grs *
4.1 grs 1052 FPS 10.1 SD / 25 ES (1.120”)
4.2 grs 1063 FPS 7 SD / 18 ES (1.120”)
4.3 grs 1069 FPS 6.6 SD / 20 ES
4.3 grs 1071 FPS 11.4 SD / 36 ES (1.120”)
4.5 grs 1092 FPS
Clean Shot Shield
4.0 grs *
4.1 grs 985 FPS 9 SD / 27 ES (1.120”)
4.2 grs 985 FPS 8.5 SD / 28 ES (1.120”)
4.3 grs 1001 FPS 6 SD / 17 ES (1.120”)
4.5 grs 1024 FPS
125gr DG CN
1.100” COAL
.376” crimp
Clean Shot G34
4.0 grs 1058 FPS 8.7 SD / 23 ES *
Clean Shot G17
4.0 grs 1064 FPS 5 SD / 11 ES*
Clean Shot M18
4.0 grs 1035 4.9 / 12*
Clean Shot G19X
4.0 grs 1049 4.8 / 14 *
Clean Shot P80 (G19)
4.0 grs 1048 FPS 11.5 SD / 29 ES *
125gr Precision FP
1.100 COAL
Crimp .376”
Clean Shot G34
4.0 grs 1059 FPS 4.6 SD / 15 ES *
Clean Shot G17
4.0 grs 1050 FPS 7.4 SD / 21 ES *
Clean Shot P80 (G19)
4.0 grs 1038 FPS 6.6 SD / 14 ES*
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Dropping like flys. DG Bullets is closing up shop as well. Got an email saying when everything is gone they’re closing their doors
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Na. Totally seems legit. Go for it.
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On 3/6/2023 at 6:18 AM, GJM said:
The problem isn't the barrel it is the 320 Legion slide. Original 320 X5 pistols shot great. Substituting an original X5 slide solves the accuracy problems. Also the GGI Lockwood slides shoot great.
First picture is my first five rounds of PMC 124 freestyle at 20 yards from a new Lockwood, second shot is after adjusting the R3 Max.
You’re saying you shot those 5 shots off hand / no support at 20 yards?
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Because of the shape of a 9mm case, LFCD will not swage bullet, nor will it affect neck tension.
The carbide ring doesn’t even touch the upper part of the case. If it’s touching the upper part of the case you have other sizing issues.
This applies to 9mm only with the FCD. Other cases and bullets will be effected by FCD.
U die is the bee knees for range pick up brass. Especially because of the variation in 9mm cases that you don’t find in other pistol cases.
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2 minutes ago, rowdyb said:
I went back to the mos plate but with aftermarket screws. That was better for me.
Can you enlighten me on the size and where you got these fine screws please and thank you
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Dillon has a black replacement part of the powder bar that has higher tolerances. Helps prevent leaks with finer powders. They’re give ‘em to you for free.
I have a pic but it’s too big to upload.
I’ll try again later.
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8 hours ago, xrayfk05 said:
The 9mm dropper has 2 options for the ball bearings, one for long (normal) bullets and 1 for shorter bullets.
Have you tried the shorter option?
I’ve never had to change ball bearing settings in the umpteen thousands of rounds I’ve loaded on the 650 with case and bullet feeder.
Not saying don’t do it, but usually you can fine tune the adjustment on the bullet feeder itself to get it to run smoothly
I’ve loaded everything from tiny 95gr MG JHPs too the longest 147’s.
I do use the spring attachments that pull the feeding tube back down for light or odd shaped bullets on 9MM and 223. Makes a big difference. DAA and Armanov both sell the spring attachments.
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I hardly ever clean guns. The polymer guns are built to run forever with very little cleaning. I have too many guns and I shoot too much. If I cleaned every time I shot I’d never get anything else done
Maybe a field strip and quick wipe every few thousand rounds. Run a dry brush through the bore while it’s apart.
My CZ TSO I clean a little more often but it still requires very little.
2011/1911 maybe a different story.
Ammo and powder used make a difference in how clean the guns run as well. Titegroup is filthy but still doesn’t keep the gun from running.
Every once in a blue moon I’ll break the Glocks and M&P’s down and give ‘em a good cleaning, but that’s usually when they need some other maintenance and I’d be breaking it down anyway.
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I just had to replace the first broken pin on a Glock in 25+ years of shooting them.
It’s a Glock 20 that I shoot FULL power hand loads in.
I went with Stainless in this case for strength vs the MIM factory parts.
99.9% of the time it would make no difference.
That being said NDZ Performance has stainless pin kits for about what the factory MIM parts cost. And free shipping if you order $20 I believe.
Get a guide Rod or spring and pins for about $20 bucks or so. You gonna pay that for factory pins and shipping anyway.
Been ordering stuff from NDZ for years. They make top notch stuff.
Really no wrong answer either way.
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I was looking for 95gr JHP BTW.
Was told I wouldn’t see them anytime soon.
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I talked to owner on the phone about 6-8 months ago.
He advised his biggest obstacle is finding people to work and stick around. He said he finds people. Trains them. Then they leave and he has to start over. He apologized and said he was doing the best he could to keep people happy and keep his business running.
That’s why he was only producing 124’s at the time.
Sounds like he has found at least enough help to add some other bullets back into the mix.
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Yes I’m sure that’s it. The greedy capitalist have devised a plan to scam us all. Where have I heard that before? Weird. If they just had to raise the price 200% for people to buy them, wonder why they didn’t just do that all along?
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On 10/17/2022 at 3:02 PM, Superkaratemonkeyfighter said:
Hate to say it but the real scam is the fact they convinced us that the price of primers is 100$ for 1000.
sad and sick.
shameful. And good people should never forget this manufactured crisis.
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16 hours ago, oddjob said:
Sig 320X5 Legion. Bought the small size grip and put the tungsten grip weight in. Put the fire control unit (fcu) in along with the takedown lever. Put the slide on and locked it to the rear. The slide stop won't go down to release the slide. What am I doing wrong??
thanks
Is there a magazine in it? Not being a wise ass. Promise. I've done that.
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23 hours ago, ranger said:
Starting to see primers at online stores - local gun store here in middle GA even had primers on the shelf. Pricing is still high but surprised at on the shelf.
What quantities are they selling in? Limited I would guess?
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23 hours ago, Zachjet said:
https://www.armorally.com/shop/federal-100-small-pistol-primers/
Not sure if this websites ligitthey won’t let me add them to my cart due to “state restriction”
I live in nyc. It’s not a problem shipping them to my house.
i
They are legit. Been buying from them for about 10 years.
Never bought powder or primers. Bought plenty of parts, bullets, and brass.
They a changed their name several years back. They are out of Texas I believe. But they are legit.
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1 hour ago, jwhittin said:
That is a good point. I didn't even ask since they offered a discount with Zelle. If they refuse to accept a CC that would be a big red flag. Do you agree that Zelle is a legitimate form of payment for companies?
100% No.
Again, unless they are handing you a product in a face to face transaction in exchange for the cash, NEVER PAY ANYONE YOU DON'T KNOW WITH CASH!
Don't mail cash. Don't e-mail cash.
I wouldn't even pay a company I'd done business with online before with Zelle, Venmo, or whatever.
One of the few upsides with credit cards is buyer protection. USE A CREDIT CARD.
I can almost guarantee if you had told that company you'd rather pay with a credit card they would have never even responded to you.
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On 10/3/2022 at 12:17 PM, zzt said:
I have a different take than ifly. Good plated bullets are really quite accurate. In many cases more accurate than hard cast coated. It all comes down to the quality and consistency of the bullet. When they were still making them, Rainier was the best, followed by RMR and Berry's. RMR did not make the plated bullets they sold. They no longer offer them because the manufacturer cannot keep up with demand for their own sales. I've only shot 1k of the Everglades plated, so I don't have a definite opinion yet. So far I like them. I don't like Frontier plated.
Plated and heavy plate are a must if you are going to shoot them through a ported or compensated gun. They are also better on steel, because they are softer and shatter into many small fragments. Hard cast bullets shatter in much larger pieces, and those chunks carry a lot further. Do not shoot lead or coated bullets out of a comp, unless you really enjoy removing lead and smurf poo from it. Same thing with jacketed, except for the smurf poo.
As far as 115gr JHPs go, Hornady HAPs are the best, very closely followed by Zero and Montana Gold. My initial impression of RMR 124 JHPs is they are as good. I'll form a definite opinion once I've shot another 1k. PD and Everglades cannot hold a candle to any of the aforementioned That being said, they are more than accurate enough for USPSA. For 45 bullseye, you cannot do better than Nosler 185gr JHP.
As far as coated lead goes, they almost all suck. I like Precision Bullets the best, by a long shot. Accurate and the coating doesn't stink when fired. Another good one, surprisingly, is Summers Industries. Accurate and very inexpensive. Hi-Tek coating stinks when fired. I'll not list the approximately dozen other brands I've tried and discarded. However, I will mention the worst. J-Ames coated bullets are bafflingly bad, and they smoke horribly. Most of the bullets I've tried in my PCC vary from one hole to 2" groups at 25 yards. With the J-Ames, I was lucky to keep them all on a 12"x12" target. I bought 1k because I was assured they would not lead up a comp. I though so little of them the remaining 750+ were placed on the free table at my club.
Just no. Not to all of it.
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It’s been said a million times.
If it seems too good to be true it is.
Use a credit card.
if they don’t take credit cards it’s 100% fraud.
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So many other better options.
Plated bullets fill the gap of not accurate not cheap bullets. A gap no one is looking to fill.
if you’re looking to shoot non comped guns cheap go with coated lead.
if you want a FULLY JACKETED bullet go with Everglades, PD, or RMR JHPs or FMJs.
Skip the plated, but if you must go with Everglades or RMR plated. Everglades plated are actually quite good bullets, but unless you can get them on sale, they just aren’t a good value proposition.
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13 hours ago, ysrracer said:
I use two shots of one shot. The primer is fine.
This ☝
It’s not wrong, but lubing pistol brass with lanolin based lube seems like a colossal waste of time
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Speed of sound has more to do with temperature than pressure altitude.
3.5 grs of TG is my sub load with 147 gr plated (one of the few areas where I’ve gotten exceptional accuracy from plated bullets). That’s my go to load. HP38 when i had it was about 3.7-3.8 for sale velocity.
Custom built AR-9 with 5” suppressed barrel is right around 960.
Plug some number in
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I had one of the first lone wolf serialized frames. I don’t remember exactly because it’s been so long, but I believe I had a very similar issue. Turned out the locking block (can’t remember if it was mine or theirs, guessing it was theirs) was out of spec just enough that it wouldn’t go into battery.
Took me awhile to figure that one out. I think had several lying around from other projects. I believe I use threw another one in and it went right in.
Sounds like you’re issue is a little different but might be worth a try?
9mm sizing die opening
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Dillon dies have the largest taper and radius in order to best work with a progressive press. Thus, if your brass to die alignment isn’t perfect the case should still enter the mouth of the die with little issue.
Down side is the the die doesn’t do as much work as far down the case as some other brands.
This is especially troublesome with mixed 9MM brass as 9MM brass tends to have the most variation across brands.
15 years ago when I started with my first 550 I was using Dillon dies and was having all kinds of issues with my loaded 9MM.
Part of it was me learning, but a big part was the Dillon dies just not sizing the brass down enough.
Lee U dies fixed all that.
If you sort brass it’s likely not an issue, or the issue can be greatly minimized.
I do not sort brass.
So, the round about answer is, you need to figure out what you process is going to be and what you priorities are when choosing dies.