gunnit
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Posts posted by gunnit
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Tonyscomputery,
Great gun, is that the DAA Thumb Rest , and how do you like it ?
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From what I understand as long as the barrel lock-up is good, than you can have just about whatever amount of room you like between the comp and slide. As you said it's just aesthetics. It's when the comp and slide bang into each other, is when there maybe an issue.
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Garmil :
I'm at .3910 with my 38 SC brass, along with a few others I talked to, and we're still able to reload a decent amount of times.
The Tanfoglio 38 barrels are just not as tight as others. We try and keep an eye on our brass and we just keep shooting.
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Is this helpful with the Lee die also?
I think the Lee die is fine the way it is.
On the Dillon, the outer ring extends down just a bit longer than the inside sizing ring.
I run Starline 38 SC brass, and my Dillon dies have worked great for me, sizing everything fine with no issues.
Possibly in the future I might take it down to the carbide sizing ring, as BSeevers did, and see if it makes any difference.
For now I don't want to mess with anything that's been working well for me.
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I have the Dillon dies also, I might give this a look.
Thank you Bill.
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Really doesn't get weak unless you are ridiculous. Gotta let brass go on a regular basis.
What it might do is fail to chamber.
I grind the steel around the carbide ring on my die. So you get the deepest seating with just carbide exposed. Every mm counts.
Bill which dies are you using ? And are you just grinding them square across the bottom ?
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Tanfoglio
I'm running a V12 in 38 and I'll get a little bit of a bulge also.
I'm able to get at least 13+ reloads out of a batch of cases before I start to to see a crack on a few.
If possible try and keep track of some cases, and see how many reloads you can get out of them before you find any problems. That's about all we can do.
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Is it the same set up as the one for 2011?
No I don't think you can use the same set up for both the 2011 and Tanfoglio.
But give Sprinco a call and see if it's possible.
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Nice and simple, excellent work cakedog02.
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mrd, nice work, that looks good.
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Cool, goodluck and let us know how it goes.
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Just take your time, mark it out, gently sand a little at a time and check it often with your grip.
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Take your time and sand a little.
If you mess up, put an add in the classifieds under the EAA/Tanfoglio buy/ sell/ trade chop shop,
and most likely somebody will sell you they're original wood grips that they aren't using any more.
Consider taking a shot at it, especially if you don't like the way they are now.
Other guys have sanded on they're wood grips and they come out looking great.
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Eric Grauffel also makes a thinner grip, EG Xtreme grips that a lot of guys use too.
At times you will find them for sale in the classified section, because they were actually to narrow for some.
Definitely a personal choice and what works for each individual.
ericgrauffel.com
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I think your fine if you put a relief on the wood grips.
But if you struggle with that, Henning makes a set of grips that have the relief already on them.
He's in the Vendor section under EAA/Tanfoglio.
henningshootsguns.com
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Over time usually any base pad dropped enough times on concrete eventually cracks or worse the magazine cracks itself.
Alternatives, I've only heard of, a couple of guys using a rubberized paint or compound they dip or spray on in layers, and have had some success with.
I can't remember exactly which ones they tried, it might have been from Home Depot, the Plasti Dip, or the Rust-Oleum Flexi-Dip, I'm not sure. Cabela's has a Tuff Coat rubberized coating also. But I have not tried any of these products. Maybe someone else will chime in with more experience using these coatings.
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arkadi great looking family of guns. Goodluck with your open project also, keep us posted on how it goes.
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Great looking gun.
Definitely talk to your distributor there. See if he can import a 6'' inch 9mm large frame barrel for you. Then have a gunsmith ( or yourself ) cut and thread the barrel for an Eric Grauffel 3 port compensator as posted above, to fit this excellent gun in the picture you posted. The barrel thread is M15 X 0.75 mm I believe , but confirm that first before threading. Another option is to try and find a V8 ported Gold Team Custom there, and just shoot it as is. You'll have 2 guns, but that's a problem you might be happy with.
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I see you just posted what country your from.
Great to have you. Welcome to the forums.
A lot of great information here.
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I probably should have asked what country your in, to find out if you have access to the original longer model V8 version of the Gold Custom.
In which case if you have the longer V8 model, you might be able to drop it right in and clearance it for the slide, so the barrel/comp do not touch.
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Not sure about your question , are you asking if you can take a standard Gold Custom barrel/comp out, and drop it right into an Elite Limited gun ?
The answer would be no. The stock barrel/comp of a Gold Custom is too short to fit directly into the longer Limited slide.
As suggested above you would re-barrel and comp for the Limited, and do whatever else if you wanted to port the barrel as Open 1215 has stated.
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I have a few of the H-141 base pads that are tight also.
I put a drop of gun oil in the detent part, which may not be a great Idea do to the fact that oil collects dirt, but it did seem to help a little.
Hate it when the mag falls into a pile of sand or crap, and you have to take it apart to clean it so you can use it again that day. But if you shoot enough it's bound to happen sometime.
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You can also try a little CRC Brakleen in the green can ( non-chlorinated ), and a small nylon only brush to scrub a bit.
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Thanks for the reference, do these go in the space where the sight was?
Yes the sidewinder goes in the space where the rear sight was removed,
and as open1215 said just file a little bit at a time until it fits.
If you get a chance could you post a pic of the ultradot HD on the Limited.
That would be cool to see. Thanks.
C-more not holding Zero
in Open Pistols
Posted · Edited by gunnit
Be careful with Loctite, It says on the back of the tube,
" It is not to be used in connection with plastic parts " .
Not quite sure what that means, It still may work with plastic but maybe not hold as well, I don't know.
I don't think it will eat the plastic but it's best to be sure before you apply it.
Someone with more experience will be able to chime in on this subject.