rmantoo
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Posts posted by rmantoo
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I shot bowling pins and bullseye in the 80s/90s a LOT, but got away from shooting sports until 2-3 years ago.
I'm new to USPSA. I joined late last year, but only got to shoot my first match in January, and have only been able to shoot 4 this year.
I have Ben's books, and spend 2 hours on dry fire weekly (in 20-30 minute increments), and I live-fire 2-3 times weekly at the minimum.
As of 2 weeks ago, I have a timer, and have started working on drills like the Bill drill and el Presidente, etc.
I don't know what happened to the speed I once had shooting bowling pins, but I am now keenly focused on getting it back
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So in my last USPSA match, on almost all of the stages, I was 1st or 2nd in raw points, but in the last 3-4 in ranking, due to Hit Factor/time.
Here's a typical stage (I'm 8th, Robert Williams):
Name USPSA Class Points Penalty Time Hit Factor Stg Pts Stage Percent
1 xxx x A 97 - 8.36 11.6029 100.0000 100.00%
2 x x A 85 10 6.88 10.9012 93.9524 93.95%
3 x x C 87 10 7.64 10.0785 86.8619 86.86%
4 x x M 88 - 8.90 9.8876 85.2166 85.22%
5 x x U 92 - 12.31 7.4736 64.4115 64.41%
6 x x U 81 10 12.54 5.6619 48.7973 48.80%
7 x x C 69 30 7.65 5.0980 43.9373 43.94%
8 Robert Williams A82905 U 98 - 20.33 4.8205 41.5456 41.55%
9 x U 82 - 28.23 2.9047 25.0343 25.03%
10 xx U 69 10 21.63 2.7277 23.5088 23.51%
The above looks like SO MANY of my stages.
Do I simply need to go faster? Is it that 'simple?'
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Last Sunday, I was home and shot Limited with my Xdm 45... I wanted to shoot Limited that day because my cousin and his son came with me to the match-their first ever-, and I wanted us to all shoot in the same class...
The next match I make I'll be shooting the Brazos in Open, loaded for Major.
And thanks for the advice, guys. I'm going to shoot whatever I happen to feel like on the day of a match. I'm going to enjoy this as much as possible, and just roll with it. I think that whatever I shoot, it' sgoing to help me improve.
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Excellent. Thanks!
I'm not close to any of the shooters in this area: They're all very friendly and helpful at matches, I just haven't had the time/ability to befriend them and extend that advice to non-matches, so the advice here is VERY appreciated.
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Status: Unclassified. I shoot 4-5 local, club matches a year (job prevents doing more). Train/shoot every other day when home and most of the time, every 3-4 days when working.
Local clubs don't to IPSC, only do USPSA.
I am not focused on getting to a certain level- my job schedule (I don't have a schedule, I simply go to work on a call-out basis, and stay out there for 7 to 40 days) precludes being able to sign up for any large or non-club matches, so I simply want to become a better shooter, and USPSA and steel matches at the local level have been productive to that end.
In 3 years, I've shot about 1/3rd of my USPSA matches with 1911s in SS, 1/3rd with an XD45 in Prod, and 1/3rd with an USP45 in prod, then Limited.
The last 6 months I've shot all but one match with the HK in Limited... but I find myself wanting to shoot my next match with the Brazos Customs 2011 in .38super that I just bought.
I know I'm never going to make GM, or even M (I'm 49 and simply can't see it happening), but I DO want to continue to improve...
Is this schizophrenia hurting me? Do I NEED to stick to one gun/division? I LOVE 1911s, but don't/won't EDC one. HKs/XDs I do/will.
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Total including three magazines was $230. Their original estimate was 50 days, but it was back in my door step in 29.
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With no lube at all it now takes less effort to cycle the handle than it did beforehand with plenty of lube.
One of the things I've always hated was when powder spilled out of a case and then stuck to the lube on the shell plate and lock ring. That simply doesn't happen with the np3 coated parts.
I've loaded over 2000 rounds of .45acp with the coated parts, and I'm impressed enough that I sent 3 other shell plates to Robar for coating, and eventually will have all of my shell plates, primer slides, and case bars coated.
My brother suggested I put a 1050 together with uncoated parts and use a trigger pull gauge to measure the force required, then do it again with coated parts.... Only problem is that I don't know how to measure the torque on the lock ring to make sure it's the same on both.... anybody have a suggestion?
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Impressive coating
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Very well packaged
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Well, I got the parts back from Robar
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FWIW, he'll probably reply here but you can ask him directly on his sub-forum here on Enos.
DOH! This is me, hitting forehead, not having even considered the sub-forum when I posted this.
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CoC for starters.
Been working with 1, 1.5, and 2 for several years.
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I'm a C shooter in USPSA. I've been shooting competitively on and off for 20+ years, but am only just now going through the analytical process of learning to shoot. To that end, I have been reading and going through books...lots of books on shooting.
One of my favorite so far has been Stoeger's Drills and 15 minute exercises. I liked it so much, I bought another one of his books.
In "Practical Pistol, Fundamental Techniques and Competition Skills," Ben Stoeger says, "It seems then that if someone wants to grip the gun something other than as 100% as hard as possible then they need to offer up some sort of reason or justification."
He goes over this several times (on page 24)
By 'as hard as possible,' does he mean, over an extended period of time? Or as hard as possible at any one time?
I ask because from a physiological pov, any muscle group exerting 100% of force will quickly fatigue, and will not only get weaker in a logarithmic manner, but will also experience tremors/shakes, and cause related muscles to suffer greater stress and fatigue as they try to compensate. If you can exert, for example, a maximum of 50lbs of force per hand at any one point in time, you can't hold that 50lbs indefinitely. Over the next few minutes to many minutes, attempting to maintain that level of force will cause huge side effects.So... do you continue to exert your maximum grip throughout the day, stage after stage, or do you start at 70, 80, or 90% on Stage 1 and mainatain that as you go?
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For quantities in the 100+lb range, I'd definitely go with a cement mixer...Unless it's only a one time thing.... if you plan ov buying and cleaning that much again and again, then, again, cement mixer.
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I guess I'll be the lone voice of dissent here: They last a VERY long time, so why NOT buy a used one?
I don't buy new vehicles, ever, except for my wife.I don't buy new firearms, almost ever.
I prefer to buy most things used- especially if it's an item that is going to BE used as soon as I use it- lol.
My current Safariland, and CR belts were purchased used. Don't know how old they were when I bought them, but they were about $25 each, and I'm happy with them. I figure that while the money saved isn't much, it's still moeny I can spend elsewhere.
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I recently pick up a RL1050 from a friend and decided to run an experiment since some parts were rusted or needed to be replaced. The moving parts (main shaft, shell plate, lock ring, etc.) were sent off to WMD Guns for NiB coating and polishing. NiB provides lubricity and should reduce the need for grease/oil, which inevitably gets gunked up with powder. I should be receiving the parts back real soon, so I can get it reassembled.
Non-moving parts (base, tool head, etc.) were cerakoted by Valkyrie Combat. It should look nice once I get it all back together.
The cerakote is gonna look great, I'd bet. Dare I ask what colors?
I have considered NiB, and only settled on NP3 because I just got a 1911 back that's been NP3'd, and it's some really slick stuff. I am going to try it out, and I may just go with NiB for the next shellplate... we'll see.
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Gigs, why would I trash a shellplate by doing this? I'm not motorized (yet, at least), and this has nothing to do with indexing.
I'm not...necessarily expecting...to completely eliminate the need for lube. I'm simply trying to reduce the inherent, both actual and perceived friction, and concomitant force required on the handle during reloading.
Brian, I'm a big fan of your slide-glide, and I honestly haven't tried it there- but I will during my next reloading session.
However, I'm still going to have one shell plate and my spare lock ring coated... I figure it can't hurt, and might just have some huge positives. If it produces any positive results, at all, I'll then have more shell plates coated. After having a VERY finicky Colt Commander NP3 coated it became an entirely different gun: Runs well and eats anything I feed it.
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I have an RL1050 (2,actually) and rather than have the lock ring milled and then running a bearing between the lock ring and shell plate, I've decided to have the lock ring and shell plates coated with a so-called 'self lubricating' film.
I've tentatively decided on Robar's NP3. http://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3/
However, because I know that many/most of the guys on this forum know a LOT more about this kind of stuff than I do, I figured I'd ask here if any of you have a recommendation for a different, perhaps better, coating.
Thanks in advance,
robert
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I've shipped primed brass using my local Mail-boxes-etc type of place. I drop off a bag of them with the address, and my MBE guy calls me later with the shipping total he charged to my card.
It's never been over $10, which leads me to believe that there was/is no hazmat charge...and since he's a registered/whatever/agent of UPS and Fedex, my presumption -only a presumption because I'm not gonna second guess the guy, it's his business, after all- is that with UPS and fedex it's kosher...
HOWEVER... since my MBE guy only charges a VERY nominal/minor fee to handle/pack my stuff, I am very happy to let him handle it all for me.
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Finally. 90% finished. Still waiting on 1 1/2", 1/2 round for the edges of work top to arrive (don't have a router, didn't want to buy one capable of 1 1/2" just for this one item) . Uprights are mostly 4x4 with some 2x4, backed by another 2x4doubler in some places, lower shelving is 3/4" maple and/or oak ply, all shelving sits on 2x4 framing, work top is double layer of 3/4" maple -might be oak, can't remember which I went with.
Lower layer of work top is screwed to framing underneath
Top layer is then screwed to the lower layer from below
Behind the White Door. Cleaned brass is in the gold plastic bins. Projectiles are on the shelf on the right side, below the commercially loaded ammo. Reloads are in .30 and .50 cal ammo cans on floor. Dillon 550 is on left side. Room is a bit of a mess right now, due to rearranging everything in the middle of completing new bench, selling/buying new motorhome, and adding setup for my 2nd RL1050:
Closeup of work that still needs finishing...waiting on the 1/2 round, and need to cut/place an end cap:
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I paid $1000 plus shipping for my first RL1050 about 2 years ago.
I paid $950 plus shipping for my second in October 2013.
Both came with one tool head, a case feeder, several caliber conversions, and a bunch of small parts. Neither came wth any dies.
Even though I bought the 2nd one during a VERY dry spell of availability, the guy said he'd had it advertised for almost 3 months on craigslist before I called him and made the deal.
I'd bet he could have sold it in a new york minute had he advertised it on Calguns or TNT, here, or any number of venues.
Shipping in both cases ran about $120. The guys dropped the machines off at local, private Mail-boxes-etc types of places, where the business boxed it up and I paid them over the phone with credit card.
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Thanks Benchmade! The links are a HUGE help.
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7 months later, I'm only now just getting vaguely familiar with the classes and rules, and have only JUST begun to get a handle on what I don't have a handle on, shooting wise.
Have you read the rule book?
Yes. But to what end? I'm not worried about rankings, so my basic goal in knowing the rules is to simply not get DQd. If there's is a technical situation where I could have gotten a re-shoot but didn't, I don't honestly much care.
My local club is EXTREMELY helpful- both individually and management-wise. I've learned so much from those guys that at this point, my local USPSA matches are as much about learning from them as shooting.
Eventually, I may get to the point where rankings and optimization of gear for a class matters to me, but at this point in my life, I am only able to get to 4-5 matches a year. I work in the oil field, and have no set schedule...I spend aprox 280 days a year away with no way to carry a gun so I can't even attend matches near where I'm working. It's anybody's guess as to when I'm going to be off, and when I am, while I'm willing to drive several hours to shoot a match-and I do- there are times when I'm home on a Sat/Sun when family commitments take precedence.... so all of this boils down to this being a non-competitive (in the long-term) competitive hobby for me.
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I shoot L10 because when I started USPSA (mid 2013) I had almost no familiarity with the rules or classes, and I just showed up with a bunch of ammo, a belt, cheap holster, HK USP 45acp, and although I had 6 mags for it, 4 were 10 rounders, and the guys at signup said, "Go L10, that's the best for your situation."
My entire goal in USPSA was/is to simply become a better shooter. My original plan was to familiarize myself with the rules, and as my shooting/reloading skills improved to begin to shoot more guns in more classes and decide if I wanted to then stick with one gun/class.
7 months later, I'm only now just getting vaguely familiar with the classes and rules, and have only JUST begun to get a handle on what I don't have a handle on, shooting wise.
SOOOOO.... until I move a lot further with my shooting skills and gun inventory- and I'm not going to buy any guns just to be able to shoot a different Class- I'm going to stick with L10, if nothing else, simply because that's what I started in, and I'm kinda stubborn
Lotsa points, low Hit Factor, just go faster?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted · Edited by rmantoo
Thanks again for all of the advice- and that video.
I mostly shoot either a HK USP 45 or an XDM 45 4.5". Both in Limited. Dawson fiber optic sights, mild magwells, Grayguns trigger on the HK, and Springer triger on the XDM.
I've shot one match in SS with a Chip Mccormick Racer 1911.
All are with my own loads, courtesy of an RL1050, mostly Xtreme 200gr HP plated bullets, and various loads of whatever powder I happen to have access to... lately it's been Alliant E3. The HK and XDM seem to eat ANYTHING I feed them, but the XDM will accurately fire a much wider range of loads than the HK.
Yesterday morning and today I exclusively ran Bill drills, el Presidente, F.A.S.T., and Rob's "Par time drill" (my name for his drill in the video- although I used a shootNsee target as I don't have a steel torso target yet, but the shootNsee gives almost as much feedback).
Total rounds yesterday: 86
Total rounds today: 94
I am recording my times on all of these drills (i've printed out the drills from pistol-training.com and typed out Rob's and put them in my 3ring binder with my pet load data for my USPSA guns, which goes to the range with me every time ).
I'm REALLY trying to avoid focusing on making it 'come together' for one drill... I'm REALLY trying to increase my speed during non-trigger events overall, but especially target to target transitions...
My biggest "AHA" moment came looking at my El Presidente times. I shot it 3 times yesterday and today, first time through at 'normal' speed, and subsequent times trying to go as fast as I can acquire my sights.
At an average of about 15 seconds, I hit all As, but at an average of just under 8 seconds, I'm 50% As, and 50% Cs/Ds. I'm not sure what that translates into in a Match, for points, but it FEELS hellishly faster.
A couple of thousand more reload practices and I'm pretty sure I will be able to drop almost a full second off of ALL stages involving reloads. 50-100, 3-4 times a week has already helped me dramatically.
I spent 30 minutes shooting each day, and last night another 30 in dry fire, focusing on transitions and sprinting between targets and calling my shots as soon as possible when in the next box.