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rmantoo

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Posts posted by rmantoo

  1. 15 hours ago, BartCarter said:

    Just ordered the 206 from Amazon.  There's a "get one free" deal that you get a CMR-201 red dot version if you buy any Crimson Trace laser.  So, looks like I will have a red dot version on another PCC to try out. :P

     THANKS for posting that!   Just ordered the 206...looking forward to having  a red and a green for less than $125 together!

  2. On 5/27/2017 at 6:20 AM, michael.flitcraft said:


    The cases are filled with lead to a point, creating 5 pillars to push the cases through. Ejection wire removed and case feed removed as well from what I can tell to allow the lead-filled cases to stay on the shell plate


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

     

     DOH!   

     

    Awesome.  That is simplicity/genius.  I am definitely going to be stealing your invention when it comes time to do my next sizing run.

     

  3. I bought the 1050 X Autodrive.  I wanted the extra software features, but don't necessarily see myself loading enough to justify that last $300 for the PRO.

     

    I spent about a month wishing and washing over LTE vs X... the LTE probably would have been fine for me, I just hate buyer's remorse/second guessing myself later.  

     

     

    flitcraft, we have a water softener:  The only way to fly in San Angelo. Salt is a pain in the behind, but it's better than drinking and cooking with nothing except bottled water.

  4. I posted that quote because I"ve been debating ammobot vs mk7 for about 3 weeks now... and that post, from late last year, has sealed the deal for me.

     

    I really think the ammobot is a phenomenal deal (they still have them for $1250) but the way I am, I'll have buyer's remorse if I get it... And the difference in price is much less than I spend every few months on guns and reloading/etc... 

  5. from 2016, by aceinyerface:

     

    "After 4 months of using the Ammobot I had a few things that I did not care for.

    It turns out that you have to sit with the kill switch in your hand and watch the shell plate.

    They don’t exactly advertise this, but if you contact them they make it clear that it is in the owner’s manual and you need to follow those instructions.

    This is true, I should have read page 29 of the Owner’s Manual before purchase- “5. Observe machine operation while keeping handheld reset switch in your hand AT ALL TIMES. 6. If observing any malfunction, press either the reset switch in hand or the yellow Reset button on control box.”.

    I made my purchase based upon a comparison chart against other autodrive presses https://www.ammobot.us/pages/product-comparisonit happens to be a dead link at the moment.

    It is not sensitive enough for my taste.

    In 10,000 rounds, I’ve broken 9 primer pins and a shell plate.
    It knocked the Primer System Assembly out of alignment with a tremendous hullabaloo. I am lucky it didn’t break something there.
    It will fail to recognize a primer not punch out, swage it deep into the pocket, then smash a primer on top of that. I luckily have only had one detonation.
    It will move the primer slide forward even if the primer is jammed into the hole on it. It seems like this is what causes an entire tube of primers to detonate. Luckily it never lit one.

    The Primer Pocket Probe will not swage and sense at the same time. I was told the solution to this was to process the brass in one step with the stock swage rod, then install the Primer Pocket Probe and load ammo.

    I learned that one of my friends that had the Ammobot sold it and went to the Mark 7, I learned his experience with the Mark 7 was very positive with respect to my issues.

    Contacting Jay and asking a few questions about their Swage Sense, learning it will swage and detect at the same time, I decided to make the move.

    I sold the Ammobot and bought the Mark 7 1050X (MK7) with the various sensors (though I still need to buy the Swage Sense).

    The MK7 took about 200 rounds to get the primer sensor, dwell and clutch adjusted perfectly. I loaded 800 more to test it out.

    On a clutch setting of 4, it stopped for 6 primers fail to punch out (all CBC cases, they suck), it caught one primer getting stuck in the primer slide for a hard jam, and 4 others that released out the bottom of the press by jogging up and down.

    No primer pins breaking, no other problems.

    I am confident that I can start the Mark 7 and have it stop itself if the smallest problem occurs, while I dryfire.

    It does cost a grand more, so what do I get for my $1000? I get my time back, my sanity, as well as the primer pins which are $1 each and the rest of the damages to the Dillon.

    post-52010-0-66866700-1467588532_thumb.j"

  6. I just bought a 2014 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7 iForce V8, 4x4, CrewMax SR5 and am getting 20mpg highway. We live in a rural area and don't do any "city" driving. Truck has 3500mi. My brother-in-law and I frequently travel to 3-gun matches and the back seats of the crew cab fold up and allow us to pack in all the guns, coolers and range bags easily. I'm 6'2", 265lbs and like the bigger vehicles myself. I'll be adding a hard tonneau cover soon so guns/gear can be locked in the bed and have the ability to carpool with more shooters.

    That's pretty amazing mileage. According to fuelly.com/car/toyota/tundra/2014 you're getting almost 20% better than the average V8 tundra...

  7. One thing to maybe think about that many people don't realize until after the purchase is that while the Tundra is a quality, awesome truck, the real world gas mileage in the v8s is in the 10 to 14mpg range.

    Have you looked at 3/4 ton diesels? Or even gas? Real world, they end up getting the same or even better mileage than the v8 Tundra, and have a LOT more room.

    n

    Another thing that most people don't thinks about is the resonate frequency of road vibration/bumps in a smaller vs larger vehicle: The lower the gross weight of any vehicle, the higher the frequency of the vibrations/roughness felt by the occupants. While Pilots/4runners/and other vehicles are great, the reality is that a lighter vehicle is more tiring to drive, in general, than a larger, heavier vehicle.

    I'm on my 5th Ford diesel, a 2013 F250 Fx4 diesel Lariat supercrew, and couldn't be happier. 2 years ago, I sold my 2009 F350 and bought a Tundra w/the 5.7. My biggest complaints about the Tundra were that I got WORSE gas mileage than my previous Ford, and the interior is almost EXACTLY the same as the Camry/Sienna.

    I Bought my current Ford about 9 months after the Tundra and am very happy to be back in a large diesel... and the ride of the 3/4 ton is much better- at least to me- than the Tundra.

  8. In USPSA I'm a high percentage (normally 92% to 94% in any given match), but glacially slooooowww shooter.

    Shooting steel matches has given me an entirely different perspective, and made me speed up. Almost to an astounding degree. In my only 2 steel matches so far, I've placed 2nd and 3rd in Limited- but MORE IMPORTANTLY, and the cause of my doing better, was that I figured out how to step on the gas.

    I've fallen in LOVE with shooting steel, and doing it fast.

    In off road and trials motorcycling, a simple rule is that "You will ride where you are looking." It was beaten into my head (mostly by the ground or trees when I WASN"T looking where I wanted to go), and even 40+ years of riding later, I still say in my head, "look there, look there, look there" when picking lines and riding fast or technical stuff.

    In shooting, I think the same thing applies: The fact that most steel is only 6 or 8" in diameter makes me focus/aim and look at ONLY that, whereas on a USPSA target, it's what, 18"x30"? I have a problem narrowing my focus on a USPSA target to the A zone, and shooting steel has made me MUCH faster on my USPSA A zone shots.

    A semi local (200 miles away) steel match has lots of torso-sized steel where you have to put 2 shots on each torso. Those are an absolute blast! Yes, some will prbably say I'm training myself to get Ds and Cs, but shooting Alphas has never been my problem in USPSA- shooting them FAST has, so this is helping me tremendously.

  9. I wasn't going to be able to make the USPSA match this past Sunday, so I went and shot a steel match this past saturday.

    After the first stage, the RO suggested I try at least one round (we shot each stage 3 to 5 times) without 'aiming,' and just go as fast as I could. "You're not trying to shoot As or Bs. You're just trying to hit the steel and move on to the next plate." That stage had steel torso targets that were about the size of the entire USPSA cardboard. We were to shoot each one twice, then move on to the next. 5 of those, and one 8" stop plate.

    At the buzzer, I drew and point-shot the big gongs as fast as I could, I didn't even wait for a sight picture, or line up the sights at all, and pivoted my entire upper body to the next target as soon as I pulled the trigger the 2nd time. 3 of my 5 runs were faster than all but a very few Open gunners' and 22 shooters'. I slowed down just enough for what I'd call a "Just good enough" sight picture on the stop plate. 4 out of 5 runs on that stage were clean, and 3 of those were very fast.

    That stage really amped me up. On the rest of the stages, I tried to stay on the fine line between 'as fast as possible,' and 'accurate enough to hit something.'

    I came in 2nd in Limited, shooting the XDm!

    13th overall out of 39? or 40-ish shooters.

    It felt VERY much like shooting bowling pins, and it made me speed up and simply shoot, and not think too much. Plan the stage, see the stage in my mind, and at the buzzer, simply shoot.

    Pretty happy with how it went. I'll DEFINITELY be doing that match as often as possible.

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