gimpy

I got my 1050 a week ago and have been dreading the day I would have to tear the priming system apart based on all the fuss I've read on the web. My priming system was giving me heck tonight because some TAC must have gotten inside. The press locked up and wouldn't go up or down. I started pulling cases from every station, and still no luck. I realized right then and there that it had to be a problem with the priming system; the shuttle was hanging up due to a semi-smashed primer. After realizing that I had to tear it all apart and clean everything, I watched how everything related to the shuttle's movement operated, and began disassembly. The whole process took maybe 20 minutes, and gave me a better understanding of how the priming system worked. In a way, I'm glad I was having problems with it because I was forced to tear it down and learn how everything works; running smooth as silk now.

I just got my 1050, and loaded my first 100 rounds on it to shoot today, and realized that it is smearing some of the primers. I noticed some other people have had the same problem, and was wondering if this is a matter of fine-tuning. I ended up adjusting the prime station retainer in a little now that I noticed the gap. How have you guys dealt with this?

I ended up getting the Thumler UV-18. My only regret is that I couldn't justify buying the UV-45. This thing is solid, and absolutely silent.

The Thumlers 10 is similar in size to the Dillon CV500 and the other typical vibratory tumblers? What would be the expected capacity with .223 on the UV-18?

Thanks for the offer, but I plan on running my rotary tumbler for a few years. I want the vibratory tumbler for pistol, and for a quick clean of rifle brass before running it through the 1050 to decap, resize, and swage. I figure that I can wet tumble after the first run through the 1050. The reason I am looking at one of the higher end vibratory tumblers is because I don't care to repurchase any time in the near future.

I have read reviews all over the place on tumblers, some will always choose the cheapest, some will always purchase based on brand loyalty. I currently tumble on a Thumlers rotary cleaner since I haven't been doing that high of volume. I have been looking at vibratory tumblers, and like the size of the Dillon, but have been impressed by the quality of the Thumlers. Because of my experience with the Thumlers, I've also been looking at their Ultra-Vibe 18. Some threads have been people who are adamantly against the Dillons because of problems with the motors. Have these issues been ironed out? Would you guys be able to recommend one over the other, and if so, why?

I've pondered this also, and wondered why it couldn't be done, but use a die similar in structure to a universal de-capping die with a very stiff spring in the middle on a collapsible shaft. This would support the case head, and would give just a little to accommodate for variances in thickness. If someone ends up producing this, I want one.

I know this doesn't address your problem, but I made an adaptation that I like better than the usual PVC adaptation. I took a 1/2" conduit union and shortened one end about 1/4" and cut out to go around the shuttle.

I forgot to add, how consistent is the powder measure with 8208? Has anyone tried it? I'm assuming I would have to polish the powder measure.

I think I'm going to order a 1050 this week so that I won't ever have to swage individually again. I'm planning on having it set up to make .223, but first want to hear any experience as to how consistent the OAL is with match grade bullets, and how is the run-out. I would assume that these would be pretty decent numbers given the amount of small shops that turn to the1050. Also, has anyone here tried using the Hornady locking rings or Forster rings on dies in this to avoid purchasing as many tool heads. I'm thinking I could get by with 2 tool heads, one for rifle, and one for pistol.

I would love to go head-first, and probably will, I am just curious if anyone has ever regretted it... At least around here. I'm sure some guy has regretted it after his wife found out what it cost.

Thanks for the advice. I'm already set up to load .357 Sig, 9mm, .40, 45, and .223 on the Hornady progressive. I'm just curious if the juice is worth the squeeze on the 1050 over the long run. I'm assuming so, but I don't know any people who actually have dedicated one to .223.

I live behind enemy lines (Chicago Suburbs) so there doesn't seem to be a ton of reloaders in my area to deal with in person. I am looking to make my bulk reloading a little easier for .223 and have been looking at the 1050 pretty hard. I've read through quite a few posts here since I've been reading here over the last few months and understand how people can get frustrated when people ask the same questions over and over again. I'm currently a member of precision shooting forums, but obviously do not run in to many guys there who use Dillon presses because of the type of ammo they load. I currently load my precision ammo on a Forster press, and am doing my progressive work on a LnL AP with case feeder and bullet feeder, but am getting tired of swaging at the least convenient times on my Super Swage. I also don't like having the occasional primer bind things up when I have tight primer pockets, nor do I like having to handle every singe .223 bullet when doing a large run. I'm looking at ordering a 1050 in the next few months plus a Mr Bullet feeder when their rifle collator is readily available. I've been saving for some time (disabled retired Army pension isn't much), and am curious if anyone has saved for a while and then been disappointed with their purchase. I want to ensure that if I purchase this, the maintenance costs won't be bad over the long-run. Also, I understand that the priming on the down-stroke is amazing, but does the machine make easy work of tight pockets? I'm also curious as to whether the swaging rod on the 1050 can over-do its job; I've felt that my Super Swage has a tendency to do this with mixed head stamps.