MNshooter
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Posts posted by MNshooter
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BOSS hanger from Ben Steoger pro shop for your Bladetech holster, ghost mag pouches and DAA or CRspeed belt. Done.
I tried one of the tactical belts but much prefer having a double belt. It's nice to leave your gear on the belt anyway.
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No, not really. You'll hear a little nonsense about the geometry of the gen3 trigger and a little nonsense about the gen4 beavertail and bigger mag release. Run what you like. I prefer gen4 but I don't think I'd tag any less no shoots or my splits would improve with a different gen.
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Beavertail & bigger mag release FTW
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I dunno about differences in mechanical accuracy (I'm not accurate enough of a shooter to confirm) but it sure is fun to shoot. The 26 is my second favorite Glock of all time.
Well, probably 3rd if I ever get to shoot an 18c
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I did the .25 trigger job on my 17. It's OK. I put the "Vogel" kit from Glocktriggers.com in my 34 with the 4.5 spring. I like it way better and no light strikes or extended striker needed.
For Limited, I'd got with the Edge from glocktriggers.com
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FWIW, My stock gen4 RSA cycles 131pf 147 gr. just fine but brass doesn't travel that far. Springs are pretty cheap - try both!
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I really like all of the 9mms. The 34 is my favorite, followed by the 26. The 17L is sweet, too. Not a huge fan of the .40 or .357 but that's just me.
If you were only going to have 2 Glocks, I'd trade the 17 for a 34 for games and use your very for a 10mm for mountain carry.
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Yea, heat up the tape & grip both when applying. It helped to get a really good adhesion. I've shot about 1k since applying it and it has held.
You can try a hair dryer, too, I guess.
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Flak jackets
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I had the same problem until I tried applying it with a heat gun. Now it stays put.
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I've experienced the same results (147 gr MG) at 25 yards, 2" group but a little low. I haven't ruled myself out of the equation.
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I really struggled with this on my gen4. I bought the Dawson's and some skate tape. Thorough cleaning is a must. I couldn't get the tape to stay as out when dry firing - my weak hand pressure would make the tape slide forward. I tried heating with a hair dryer, clamping with foam over night, etc.
Once I ran out of Dawson tape I used it as a template for some Jessup skate tape. I used a Harbor Feight heat gun (cost was less than the grip tape) when setting the grip tape. It is solid now. You can even see/feel some of the RTF numbs through the tape. So, I found proper heat is the answer.
Once this tape wears out I will order more of the Dawson tape. I have plenty of extra skate tape but it is very hard to replicate the clean lines if the Dawson tape.
One other thought: the Dawson tape doesn't cover the backstrap. I've tried with and without the backstrap taped. I found I like to add a little to the lower half of the backstrap to firm it up but have the too smooth so I can still adjust my grip.
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I've only chrono'd TG once so I can't speak to temp sensitivity yet
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I'm new to this but for what it is worth 3.1 gr with a little shorter OAL averaged 870 for me yesterday. I was pushing a 147 MG out of a G34 with stock barrel. 73 degrees.
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Thank you for all the help. I had a wonky caliper. Brian sent me a fresh one and I made a dozen dummy rounds. My "old" dummy rounds were way too long. New OAL 1.135 & crimp .380. They plunk, spin & drop just fine!
Thanks to all who chimed in.
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I appreciate the suggestions. My calipers (new) died. I'm questioning how accurate my measurements were before. I'm out of commission until I get a fix and can be confident in specs.
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Thank you for the replies - keep them coming!
I'm brand new to this, why would over crimping cause the chambering issues I have? I haven't fired any of these rounds yet (loading for chrono) so I can't speak to accuracy. My bullets are about .354 so my crimp is roughly 2x case wall. Maybe I should back off a hair. I pulled a handful and I didn't see any marks or indentation suggesting over crimp. I did pull some AA&A which does have a ring and a much tighter crimp. That said, I have not experienced any accuracy issues with those.
Ogive is not something I've considered. 1.135 is the longest I've loaded but I *think* I can go as long as 1.17 if I did the "push test" correctly. My confusion comes from the fact that most of the rounds drop in, spin, drop free from my barrel easily - why do a handful under the same specs not?
If I can't get this figured out going shorter is the next step. I chose 1.13 as I see a lot of loads on the forum at this length and I liked the cushion (my manuals list 1.10 as min). Also, I have several batches loaded at this length in various charge weights for load development later
I have not fired any of these rounds but I suspect they would eject OK.
I sincerely appreciate the feedback. Any thoughts on resizing? Could it be as simple as lowering the sizing die by a hair?
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I've been digging through the forums and *think* I may have found the solution but I'm hoping to get the collective benos universe to weigh in. I'd like to have options when I get back to my press tonight.
I'm loading 147 gr Montana Gold CMJ in range pick up WIN brass at 1.13 - 1.135. I have just enough crimp to remove the bell - about .374. I'm using Dillon dies on a new 550b.
My rounds case gauge all day long. They drop in, spin, and drop out with ease.
When I chamber check in stock Glock barrel, most will drop in, spin and drop out; however, I'm noticing a very high failure rate of about 40%. These 40% will chamber and sit flush but not as smoothly and require just a little help to remove from the barrel. They will soon but need a little force. The specs (oal and crimp) are consistent with the good rounds.
So, is this am issue with the sizing die? It looks to me like the bullet is not canted.
What else should I consider? I'm hesitant to change the dies too much as my "good" rounds feed very well, chamber well and these specs are a proven Glock load.
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Looks sweet. Any issues with glare?
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Would you upload pictures of the grip?
I'm curious to see how a "1911 grip angle" works with "glock angle" mags.
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Not a franchiser or franchisee but I'd suggest due diligence on the franchise agreement. You're generally limited by suppliers (read no way to negotiate your input costs) and beholden to the franchisers marketing program. If you pay royalties on margin you're better off than if you pay on revenue. When you pay by revenue the marketing programs generally aim to boost sales with no regard to your bottom line.
There are exceptions but my general feeling is that franchise agreements are generally not so favorable.
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This is a lie. No one just finds a CzC accushadow
sure you do, they are usually in the case next to the Stock IIs
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It would take me years to go through all of thay
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Serious question: how many pounds do you order to make the hazmat charge worth it?
Which frame for 1911 build
in 1911-style Pistols
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