PaperScraper

I've read a number of times where some believe the CZ is a knock off of the Browning. I actually took a CZ75B, a High Power and a SIG P210 apart and laid them next to each other. If CZ borrowed anything from anyone it was the SIG P210, The full length internal rails, very low bore center closer to hand, grip angle, slide stop, barrel riffling. I've a SIG 226 Elite .40/.357 which I carry for defense and will until I find one of the Fire Dragon CZ .357 Sig barrels to put in a SP01 Tactical to carry. The Sig's P22? grip angle is a bit more vertical than the CZ's and the Sig P210. Also because of the location of the slide stop on the P22? you can not get your hands up anywhere near where you can on the CZ or P210. Jeff Cooper claimed the CZ 75 was the best and most accurate 9mm in the world. I don't generally go with what others claim, but in this case I think he is dead on...

I build my own and have done a few for friends; actually repaired a few CZ Custom pistols which the safety did not function on. Too much material removed when they installed the comp hammer, throat job, knocked down the edges of the ramp so the edge of the case didn't bite, hang, skip, off it. FYI: if you install the 13 lb or lighter main spring; use the extended firing pin and you should not have any issues with any primers being too hard. CZ is actually one of the most simple pistols to customize if you have an eye for detail and some good mechanical aptitude.

Um, I guess that they could allow CT Grips in comp's though I doubt it would happen anytime soon.

check the side edges of the feed ramp for nicks where the edge of the case is digging into the edge of the feed ramp. If will take enough of the forward motion out of the slide to stop a round from chambering all the way at times, it can also be a cause of small dents in the case where it hits the top of the chamber wall which is another indicator. Also might consider doing a throat job on the chamber while you have the barrel out if you have to knock the edges of the ramp down.

Out of curiosity only, why would you want a cross cut dovetail when the factory sight cut is at the center axis of the bore? The front sight will always be center, you drift the rear to set the sight to the sight picture you shoot best with. But all that said, If the person cuts it to the depth of the original sight then there should be plenty of depth. Now I'm not sure how far back you would have to move it to ensure enough material at the front. They could fill the factory cut with wield and level it all off the to slide profile, then cut it to the factory depth I would assume. again, I wouldn't do it myself, but firearms are a personal thing, so go for it...

FYI: converting a CZ DA/SA to a SA us as simple as removing the disconnect pinned to the Hammer at the front.

you could build it to be a fantastic comp pistol. Comp Hammer Combat Trigger if it doesn't have one already. Polish or remove the firing pin block. Do an action and trigger job on it. (be sure to use a 13 lb spring and extended firing pin) Put whatever sights on it you like and you now have a pistol that will shoot with any of the CZ Custom pistols any day of the week and have spent not even half the price of one. It isn't magic... Just some time and patience, when smithing your not in a race. I shoot a 1989 CZ IPSC (built at CZ, meaning they drilled and tapped the frame for a red dot and that is about it) I did the action and trigger job on it. Everyone that shoots it wants it, the trigger is just over 1.5 lbs in single action and just at 3 lbs in double action. There are a number of reasons that the CZ is so accurate. The center of the bore is closer to the hand than most pistols, full length internal rails, grip angle and grip design making the pistol feel like it was born in your hand. I like the SP01 frame with the added metal on the nose of the frame because it helps with what little flip you might get over the 75b. But that said, the 75b is just as good a pistol as any of them.

Its been a while since I had to design any coil spring projects in school for Mech Design. But if a full coil is rated at a single rate, it would carry through the same weight all the way through. The Pre load actually adds weight to it if I remember correctly. Which is why the travel and compression and weight of truck springs are changed when lift lugs are turned in between the coils to gain lift. The ride goes to hell and it changes the full dynamic of the suspension.

MecGar makes Factory CZ mags.

If the extractor spring was too strong to allow it to engage the cartridge it would not stop the round from chambering, but it would stop the slide from fully entering battery. In time it would snap the end off the extractor. I have changed hundreds of extractor springs without cutting anything off of them and they function as is out of the box just fine.

I'd check the edges of the feed ramp on each side for chatter marks, if there are any, cut them down about 1/6th shoot a few rounds and see if it takes care of it, if noot and you see more marks take them down a bit more. Also, do a throat job with some 1000 grit wet/dry. Another thing you might want to try before doing anything else would be to slap your fully loaded mags into the palm of your hand so the rounds are all seated to the back of the mag. As the top round is picked up it will drag the next round below it forward, this can be compounded dragging the nose of the next round too far forward throwing the angle of the chambering round off forcing it to nose into the feed ramp. It will beat a dent looking mark into the ramp. I do not have a pistol that comes across my bench that I do not knock the ramp lips down on and do a throat job on to keep FTF's and FTE's out of the picture. Seating the rounds to the back of the mag on any semi-auto should be standard practice to ensure the second round down does not affect the chambering of the round above it. Especially on a carry weapon, you do not want to end up holding a really short club in the middle of a gun fight.

Cutting a 15 lb spring shouldn't change the coil resistance. It will be a 15 lb spring without pre-load so your getting an exact 15 lbs of resistance. It might end up being the same resistance as a full length 13 lb before you have cut the 13 lb down and removed it's pre-load. This is one of the reasons for the extended firing pin, when you cut a 13 lb down and remove the pre-load you end up with light primer hits at times without the extended firing pin. CZ pistols are some of the simplest pistols to tune and being the design seems to have taken inspiration from the Sig P210 there is no cuestion it is one of the most accurate out of the box semi-auto pistols on the planet.

I don't see who making a firearm yours is not part of what this site is about, nor this forum, but ok. Look into having your slide dipped and sealed (Hydro Coating). Graphic Transferring has come a long way and is durable with the sealers they are using now. Just throwing out another option for customizing. side note: don't have much use for Tacticool or Bling Wow, but that's a personal opinion.

Decided to finally sign up with the site. Friends I shoot with have mentioned it to me for the last few years but I never got around to it. Been checking it out off and on and find I like the feel of the place. Ya'll shoot straight, be safe and know your back drop... C-ya around!