Cavy
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Posts posted by Cavy
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14 hours ago, PewPewJohnson87 said:
Ok so I just got home from my mom's house and wanted to take the gun apart and clean it, when I pulled the read take down pin and spit the 2 halves I found little shards of metal. WTF right? I pulled the bolt and immediately see that there's a roll pin in the back of the bolt holding in a metal slug, well the roll pin backed itself off and started rubbing the inside of the upper. This was odd because I did not notice the roll pin when I first got the gun from the builder and tore it down to inspect, I also didn't notice anything when I cleaned/oiled it after I sighted the gun in (only took 10 shots and 2 separate groups of 5 to confirm zero). So either I over looked this (possible but unlikely) or the roll pin in the bolt is walking. This is most likely the case since up until yesterday the gun might have had 60-70rnds down range between initial sight in, chrono session, and a double check of the initial sight in (left my rest the 1st time) and I was about 250ish rounds into the match. Now the question is, do I risk shooting another match with this bolt or do I replace it with something better (JP) or send it back to Faxon?
My buddy had the same issue with his CMMG bolt. Some of the pins don't have much tension. Just go to your local hardware store and get a new roll pin. Knock out the old one and replace it with new. make sure the pin is centered and not sticking out. Should take care of the problem.
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On 3/13/2019 at 6:27 AM, cecil said:
The reason the ejector is loose is because the bolt that secures it is a little too long and it bottoms out in the hole before it pinches the ejector tightly. Take the bolt out and remove a little material from the tip until it secures the ejector. Then make sure the ejector does not drag against the bolt. It can be bent outward if needed.
My QC-10 Glock lower works flawlessly, I would buy again if I needed one. Hope this helps.
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1 hour ago, Acer2428 said:
I have one with and one without. As long as your HG isn't solid and you'r bbl is 6"+ you likely won't need to do anything special. Minor PF 9mm loads don't produce much pressure through the port. As
This is the way to do it, although I didn't offset mine quite as much. However it keeps the pressure away and debris away from your hand and has the benefit of generally lining up with MLOK or other slots in your handguard of choice. The crappy part is that you'll most likely want to have the bbl or extension machine timed, so that, plus a pin & weld gets expensive. Your other option is to use a crush washer and strap wrench on the steel part of the extension.
Thanks for the advise. I would really like to see pictures if possible. Thanks, Randy
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2 hours ago, TonytheTiger said:
I've got one on a 4" barrel. Haven't shot it side by side with a similar gun with a conventional barrel so I have no idea how well it works. Looks cool though, and that is important.
Thanks, guys The "cool" factor is important! I have always thought you should be able to have both a gun that works well and is cool looking.
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Anybody have experience with Taccom's lightweight barrel extension that has the mid barrel brake? Thinking about trying it with about a 10" barrel. I know the handguard would need to be ported. Just curious if it worked and/or if it was worth it? https://taccom3g.com/product/light-weight-barrel-extension/
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On 8/29/2018 at 8:43 AM, jkrispies said:
That looks like a very good design... just ugly as crap. It has the proper thread pattern too. Aluminum should be lightweight. I think the new TACCOM barrel with an MBX brake would make a good pairing, actually.
How does the aluminum hold up to erosion from the hot gas?
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Quarter circle 10 has one also. Might be fun!
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On 10/26/2016 at 10:58 AM, BD Williamson said:
OLD style JP with the 2 adjustment screws. They just flat work and have a great break and reset!
Had this old style JP in my AR-9. (Qtr circle 10 glock lower and bolt) Tried the Hyperfire to see how it was after reading all the good reviews. It worked fine but I prefer the feel of the JP. When set up properly it has less creep and shorter reset than the Hyperfire. Put the Hyperfire in my AR-15. And they lived happily ever after.
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14 hours ago, SJMPCC022 said:
How do you like it and how is it in the sunshine? I watched a few you tube vids and it seemed when the dude was using the circle with the dot in the bright sun it all kind of washed together into one huge circle. I realize that was a video of it so I am asking.
I was thinking about upgrading my dot when this season is over. I currently have a Bushnell AR Optic TR-25. I have zero complaints and it seems to work just fine, as long as the battery is good. With the red glasses I wear the dot is usable in the bright sun, but brighter would be sweet. I would imagine it would be tough to find anyone here who would say his ( or her) dot is way too bright in the sun and wishes it was dimmer.
I was going back and forth between the Holosun 510C and the C More railway. The consensus opinion seems to be the reflex gives you better vision of the stage than a tube style dot ?
Feel free to chime in.
I found the circle/dot reticle to be too busy. Also in the bright sun it got too bright. You can fix this by fooling the scope by covering the solar panel with electrical tape until the dot turns down. I ended up putting the 510 on my shotgun and a C-More Railway 8min on my PCC.
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On 8/20/2018 at 7:00 AM, longbeard said:
It's like anything in shooting. You think you want to dabble, and you buy in cheap, get hooked, and realize you wasted your first purchase. Buying a pre-built brand usually ends up with what Sarge said. Replacing almost everything. Start with a good lower like the QC10 and build from there.
What he said. I have fallen into this trap also. Warning! PCC is addictive. I haven"t shot my open gun since I got my PCC.
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"Appears that the Spur utilizes a non-standard base plate for mounting on pistols like a Glock 34 or FNX-45 Tactical. So far as I can tell the picatinny base on the optic is the only available mounting option at thi time."
This review says it has a non standard screw pattern.
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On 3/29/2018 at 4:11 PM, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: I have played around with the Blitzkrieg buffer setup a little bit. Right now what feels the best to me is the 308 JP rifle spring in the carbine buffer tube with the Blitzkrieg buffer. I will be trying some spacers and maybe a wave spring if I can borrow one. I like the 308 rifle spring setup since I can still lock the bolt back. I did try short stroking the bolt but the spacer I made was a little too long to reset the Hiperfire trigger. As for splits compared to my JP setup----they are the same for me. Thanks, Eric
What bolt are you using and are you using it with or without the removable mass?
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Was looking at JP's web sight and saw they now have an "enhanced" Gen 2 9mm SCS buffer for use with non JP bolts with weight removed.
It seems to be capable of using additional weights if wanted/needed.
Anybody have some experience with this? https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPSCS2-9MM-5H2
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My friends .223 had the same issue. Drive the retaining pin out inspect/clean the spring and bore. His had gotten some debris in with the spring limiting the travel of the catch. Cleaned and lubed it and problem solved.
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I was having the same issue with my QC10 Glock lower. I was using a JP BCG which uses a 1911 style extractor. I tried adjusting the tension but was still having extraction problems. I finally switched to a QC10 BCG which uses a much improved .223 style extractor design. Problem solved. Hope this helps.
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I sent an email to Troy McManus NROI director a while ago asking the same question.
His reply was that it was perfectly legal on a PCC. The rule prohibiting vertical grips applied only to handguns.
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23 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: Does anyone know the weight of the JP buffer SCS2-9mm? Not the overall weight which is 8.4375ozs but the actual weight of the moving mass with 3 tungsten weights and one steel weight? I haven't taken the JP buffer apart yet since I am still waiting on the bolt. Thanks, Eric
The SCS2-9mm slider with weights (no rod or spring) weighs 6.4 oz.
The JP 9mm bolt weighs 13.7 oz.
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I used an Arrendondo extended mag release button for an AR. Take the drilled AR button (supplied) and position it on your mag release and mark the location of the two threaded holes. Drill and tap the release lever than install the extended button directly onto the release lever. It works nicely. Hope this helps.
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On 11/27/2016 at 6:42 PM, CZ85Combat said:
The AR 15 white spring is the 80% spring.....
- JPSCS-SPRING15-80: 1 side white
- JPSCS-SPRING15-85: 1 side black
- JPSCS-SPRING15-90: 1 side green
- JPSCS-SPRING15-95: 1 side yellow
- JPSCS-SPRING15-100: no color
Thank you! I was not sure what you meant by 80%. I am trying to sort mine out. Appreciate the input.
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On 10/23/2016 at 5:21 PM, CZ85Combat said:
You want a lighter buffer, a light spring and a light load. What I am using, JP 9mm Silent Captured Spring with one tungsten weight removed replaced with steel weight, 80% spring, 147 Blue Bullet 2.5gn N310 @ 1.130 132pf out of a 14.5 Barrel.
Just curious. I have the JP bolt and JPSCS 2nd gen 9mm setup. 3 tungsten and 1 steel weight. It came with the yellow/red spring. From what I read this is the heaviest .308 spring. What color code is the spring you ended up liking? Did you stay with the .308 springs or drop down to AR15 springs. Thanks, Randy
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On 11/1/2016 at 0:08 AM, bdugger said:
Ya know (I'm sure you've already thought it over but) the 9mm ar barrels from JP aren't much more $$ not ta knock the other two but JP has their stuff dialed in any if it isn't they will bend over backwards to get you running. I love my JP barrels. Just finished my 14.5" 9mm
My 16"JP 9mm PCC barrel will accept a round loaded way longer than my mags will. Let's you load pretty much what ever you want.
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On 10/25/2016 at 8:57 AM, Novock said:
I run my JP GMR13 just the way it came from JP. I run light bullets with Hodgdon Longshot at 130pf and the dot tracks well. I dialed my load in for the gun vs changing the gun for my load.
What do you consider " light" bullets?
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On 10/23/2016 at 5:22 PM, Patrick Scott said:
I have done the heavy(7oz) buffer and heavy(308) buffer spring while shooting 130-196pf(yes 196pf, I went there) ammo. Gun felt sluggish up until about 145pf and had tons of dot "pull off" when the system bottomed out in the tube.
Now I run 130pf ammo, 4.6oz buffer(H2) and a .223 spring. Less dot "pull off" and the gun cycles fairly fast(Id like to try a reduced power .223 spring). More gooder
First time shooting this lighter stuff in a match was today. I'm definitely a fan of going lighter for the operating system as long as you are loading for the gun. If you are going to shoot factory or hotter stuff, I think you will beat the piss out of the gun with a light system and dot bounce will be worse.
What load are you using? I assume this a rifle length buffer tube?
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On 10/16/2016 at 6:13 PM, Nugget said:
Jp is what you need. It will chamber 147 grain bbi's loaded long, it is accurate and the finish is great. I use it in a psa glock lower upper receiver.
+1 on JP. Using it with a Qtr circle 10 Glock lower. Swallows everything.
First time shooting this lighter stuff in a match was today. I'm definitely a fan of going lighter for the operating system as long as you are loading for the gun. If you are going to shoot factory or hotter stuff, I think you will beat the piss out of the gun with a light system and dot bounce will be worse.
G10 vs Carbon fiber handguard
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
So I'm looking at Taccom's handguards for my AR9 PCC. Notice they offer two different matierials. G10 and carbon fiber.
I know about carbon fiber but not G10. Anybody have experience with G10? Weight/strength differences if any?
I kind of like the look of the G10 from the pictures. Any info appreciated. Thx.
https://taccom3g.com/product/ultralight-handguard/