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424D57

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Posts posted by 424D57

  1. One thing I am confident of, there was no apparent sign anything was wrong with this piece of brass, when I loaded it. Ever since that Taurus came apart in my hands, I have inspected each piece of brass as it comes out of the tumbler. Then, I inspect again after the round it loaded.

    Has this piece of brass been fired too many times? Well, one too many times for sure!

    When I first started competing, I marked all my brass and tried to recover it. But then, it was all new brass at that time. I drifted away from that but, now find myself reevaluating. After all, I feel just plain lucky this round did not blow my gun apart.

    What would you do in my position? Seriously, I'm asking!

    Here's the load, BTW:

    Bullet: 155 gr. MG FMJ FN

    Powder: 6.6 gr. AutoComp

    Primer: CCI 400

    PF: 169

    OAL? (Just curious have been considering building an AC load for .40)

    -424D57

  2. not quite the same but..

    MG 165 JHP 5.1gr titegroup CCI SPP 1.170 OAL just under 170 power factor out of my 6" Schuemann AET barrel.

    The round runs great in my USPc40, but I haven't chrono'd it out of that gun and don't know how chamber specs in the P30 compare.

    -424D57

  3. We use MG 147gr CMJs which are a pretty flat point profile in the Sentry with no problems; I'm hesitant to think its only the bullet profile that is bringing issues. Our Sentry is set up on a FLGR and IMSI spring (12 lbs I think but I'd have to check to be certain). OAL on my 147 load is 1.153. If you like the berry bullets, I'd try making the round a bit longer before giving up on the load.

    -424D57

    edit: spelling typo

  4. My experience is that "first timers" tend to flirt with (or get in bed with) a DQ because they try to go as fast as the rest of us.

    I usually try to have a quiet word with them along the lines of "try to get good hits and don't bother too much about the time at this stage". They usually get reasonable times too as they shoot smooth stages that way.

    Those who hammer the throttle tend to mess up in the early days.. Offer consolation and don't let 'em get away :-)

    Whenever I'm aware of a new or newish shooter on my squad (and I try hard to be made aware) I will take extra time to introduce myself and express this sentiment, and then will reiterate it before every stage start. "Here's some things to watch out for on this stage, and remember be calm, be smooth. No need to race through your first match, just be safe and have fun." So far at least most folks seem to greatly appreciate the extra bit of welcome to the sport.

    -424D57

  5. Using a cheely setback on the Mrs' MM. There's some evidence the cmore occasionally rubs the slide during recoil but nothing thats ever been of concern. Had to order longer screws and cut them to fit even without a thumbrest; I guess the mount is thicker than stock where it attaches to the frame.

    -424D57

  6. No experience with those tubes but that sounds common. When you have 19 rounds loaded and its hard to insert, when you get it locked in will it drop free?

    If it won't drop free I'd think you're probably right the tube is getting stretched wide into the grip.

    If it will drop free I'd think you're just pushing the limits if capacity and the extra force is trying to compress the spring that last little bit.

    -424D57

  7. All that's left to do besides finding someone to tune my mags is a trigger job (I'd like to get it down to 2#), having the trigger guard undercut, having the frame textured, refinishing the grip, and maybe adding a racker. :)

    I'd suggest the Dawson tuning kit to help you work your mags unless you're looking for exotic capacity. It won't make 31 round 170s but I've had great success making reliable reloadable 28 170s and 23 140s (Dawson +1 and SNLs respectively) with ease.

    -424D57

  8. Mike I know you've moved on and I'm a bit late checking in on this thread, but for anyone else that comes across this question, here's a couple shots of the mrs' match master with cheely mount:

    esytudes.jpge3enunym.jpg

    And here's the bit of slide wear that I can only attribute to hitting the cmore during recoil (slide does not touch when cycling by hand):

    e7u5y7ah.jpg

    And lastly the bit of wear on the optic:

    uhyju3uq.jpg

    -424D57

  9. I'm a little late, but Mrs 424D57 runs a cheely setback on her matchmaster and it clears fine. I got longer screws, cut them down with a dremel and cutoff wheel, then used a file to clean up the ends. She has a right side racker and didn't want a thumbrest so i'm no help there I'm afraid.

    -424D57

  10. We went with a cheely setback. Don't know if it was a valid concern or not but we worried about blasting gunk all over the cmore without the setback. Pattern was fine, but my stock screws were too short - ordered some longer ones and cut them to fit.

    I also used 13 coil in the 170s per Gram's recommendation if memory serves. Hang on to your 11 coil guts though - you'll want them for your 140mm mags at some point.

    -424D57

  11. Just FYI - when we started running major in the Mrs matchmaster it seemed great, but after a couple hundred rounds starting getting a lot of fail to extract problems. Rounds were basically identical to yours 7.1-7.3 grains autocomp 124gr MG CMJ, small rifle primers, 1.17 OAL. I changed the recoil master out for a FLGR and 8 lb spring, put an aftec in it and switched to an offset mount - problems all went away. I'm no where near enough of a pistol guru to know which combinations would have done it, or if this will be common to other matchmasters.

    -424D57

  12. Personally I like iron sights better than dots, so I'd vote for a limited gun, but my preferences in shooting should make little difference :)

    A couple of questions that might be worth considering...

    Do you want to shoot 2 different platforms for 3gun and uspsa? If not, do you have shotgun/rifle setup for open? If not, you might want to consider limited just to go with your 3gun division.

    Do you have a press and all the toys set up to make 9/38super whatever your choice for open major? Can't pick that ammo up at walmart. Not necessarily something to disuade you from Open, but definitely should consider in the total cost/effort. Factor in chrono cost and time too.

    How are your eyes? Talk to lots of folks that fall in love with the dot just because its easier to see. Might be very attractive if you feel like your eyes aren't as young as they once were.

    As to actual purchase choices once you pick a division, look real hard at total cost. On a stock STI you're likely to want a mag well, solid guide rod, and a trigger job right out of the gate. Maybe tack on a sideways mount and a slide racker for the open variety. Compare where you think you'd be at with some of the very nice custom pieces found regularly for sale here in the classifieds with all the work done for you, or something from one of the major builders in the same price range new (thinking dawson CRP, brazos sc etc).

    Not saying you'll need all the toys listed immediately or eventually, but its definitely worth considering what you think you might want.

    -424D57

  13. Anyone out there used a Nook Simple Touch indoors? Considering picking these up for a local match, but have never seen one in person and not sure if I'd be ok with the base model or need the backlight and hoping to pick up someone else's experience.

    Thanks

  14. I still haven't replaced my Recoil Master yet, but am going to very soon. Can I stick any 1911 FLGR in my Edge? My gun has a bull barrel, if that makes any difference.

    Should work fine. Keep the edge plug. Hopefully someone else will come along and add any important notes about fitment of which I'm not aware, but all the FLGRs I've put in 2011s have been one part number for single and double stacks, and have all be drop-in without issue.

    -424D57

  15. Just had this happen after installing new internals and hadn't picked up a new safety yet.

    Just to add a bit of detail, your safety isn't close enough to the sear. When the safety is engaged and you pull on the trigger, the sear is moving but safety is close enough to prevent it from clearing hammer hooks, which causes the hammer to push on the top of the sear. when you take the safety off, nothing is keeping the sear in place any longer and the hammer pushes the sear out of the way and then falls.

    As to the inconsistency in how far you engage the safety, I would suspect it has to do with how much the sear can move, and exactly where on the tip of the hammer ends up pushing the tip of the sear.

    Short story as said above - new safety.

    -424D57

  16. in an STI executive (basically same gun as an edge - 5 inch bull barrel)

    Dawson full length and 12.5# IMSI spring.

    180gr MG JHP 4.7gr titegroup 1.125 OAL or 155gr MG JHP 5.7gr titegroup 1.125OAL

    Felt like there was a hiccup in the slide cycling with the recoil master. I also wanted to gain more ability to customize the spring rate to various loads. Didn't do the tooless dawson because I didn't feel like spending the extra money and the paper clip tool isn't that much of a pain. Solid guide rod and spring eliminated the hiccup, and I feel like its a bit smoother. Tried a 14# spring first, muzzle dipped a little much so I settled on the 12.5. I think it flattened fast follow ups. No change in first shot accuracy. Slight improvement in groups on fast followups.

    We've replaced the recoil master in every STI we've owned. Highly recommended if just for the ability to customize springs. Weight of a tungsten or ease of takedown on the tooless dawson is just bonus territory.

    -424D57

  17. Mrs 424D57 runs major from her matchmaster, which I think as mentioned above is the same setup but with a longer comp than the steelmaster. No idea what real affect if any the shorter comp would have on bullet velocity.

    Her load is 7.4 grains autocomp 124gr MG CMJ 1.165 OAL. 10shot average 1414FPS ~175 powerfactor.

    While working up the load, somewhere around 6.8-7 grains rounds stopped reliably ejecting. The extractor hook would pop off the case rim leaving the spent case in the chamber resulting in a double feed. Adding a bit of extractor tension didn't fix is, so under the theory that the first spring of the recoil master wasn't holding the slide long enough for the case to contract after the round fired, I replaced it with a FLGR and IMSI spring. After that the gun has run like a champ. I picked up 8 and 9# springs, found she liked the 8 better (the 9# dipped too much).

    -424D57

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