MrWallace

He currently isn't doing slide work, just full gun builds

I just installed a DAA adjustable thumb rest on my STI and I like it more than the ones that replace the slide stop, but really it comes down to personal preference. If you buy the nitro fin/PT one, and don't like it, you can always post it to the classifieds, someone is bound to pick it up.

Is there a replacement blade for the adjustable STI rear? I have searched for one but can't find anything! I'd like to be able to see more of the target/area around it (unless I'm getting the wrong sight picture?)

Update on this, I've started to focus more on my walk through and sticking to my game plan. I forced myself to slow down during dry fire practice and it's helped a lot! Thanks for the advice though, every little bit helps! Now if I can just get my transitions and foot work working together I'll be good!

Thank you Fowlmouths, I was about to grab a 5-40 but I thought I had seen somewhere that the screws were 4mm but couldn't find it again. Gotta love metric!!

Okay, thank you scottlep!

I just got the DAA adjustable thumb rest in and can't for the life of me find the information on the size of screws that it came with, or the size tap that I need to drill and tap the frame to mount it. Does anyone have this information? Thank you in advance

I'll help!

I've been here for a bit and posted a few times but I've never officially said hello Until now that is!!

Haha well I don't know about your first born son, maybe just the second one but generally I go with that adage "Buy nice or buy twice" when it comes to getting parts. The main manufacturers that make great parts are: EGW Extreme Engineering Ed Brown Dawson Wilson Combat (as you already know) As far as preference on what parts to use, that's entirely up to you. I have a motley collection of parts in my 2011 ranging from STI stock parts to EGW, WC, and Dawson. When it comes to ordering the parts, just do a bit of searching around about what you're looking at, make sure it'll work with what you've got (you can always contact the manufacturer to be sure!), and hit go! You're on the right track by asking questions, so keep em coming! Good luck!

Watermelon- if you look through these two manuals you should be able to find the measurements that you're looking for. Also, you could find the blueprints for the 1911 and use the measurements from those if you know what you're looking at. By the way, I would suggest reading through these manuals, or at least familiarize yourself with them. They will definitely be one of the best resources you can go to for reference points and proper fitting of things. But as Drewbeck said, ultimately the parts you've got in front of you will determine the dimensions you'll need. When I fit mine, I worked the rails on the frame until I could get the slide started, and then worked the slide a little bit, then the rails then the slide. You can always go back and work the rails to tighten them up, but first thing you need to do is get all of the measurements for the rails on the frame, the slide rail cuts, etc... But honestly, Volume 2 below should walk you through pretty much everything. Volume 1: http://www.restigouchegunclub.com/Firearm%20user%20manuals/The_Colt_.45_Automatic_-_A_Shop_Manual_Vol.1_by_Kuhnhausen.pdf Volume 2: http://www.klstottlemyer.com/klstottlemyer.com/Prints_drawing_etc_files/The_Colt_.45_Automatic_-_A_Shop_Manual_Vol.2_by_Kuhnhausen.pdf PDF of an updated (and rather well done) version of the blueprints: http://riobenson.com/M1911A1%20REDUX%202nd%20ED%20-%20%20Complete.PDF Keep the questions coming! The only dumb/bad questions are the ones you don't ask!

A dremel with a large polishing disc and some flitz would do it I imagine

Ugh good luck! I filed mine flat. No issues with it stamping anymore. But then again, I'm also going to be getting mine coated soon since that hasn't been done yet and I'm sure you wouldn't want to have to do that.

Kart, Scheumann, Nowlin

How long did it take you to cut the tri-top if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking for someone to do the exact thing you've done here (in a decent time frame I should add) and have struck out so far

Having (hopefully) just finished fitting my first 2011, there are some aspects that are easy and some that aren't. It depends on how in-depth you're wanting to get. For instance, I had the 2011 frame but no slide, so I bought a CK arms slide because it was the style that I wanted. It took me a while to get the slide lapped just right, and even then I was having issues with the slide going all the way back (I still believe it is because the slide tapers a lot more than it should at the front). A slide lapper would've made this job much easier! The barrel I used was a .40 bull barrel that needed the hood cut, and the link/lug area to be worked extensively. For that I got a friend of a friend to do the majority of it on his mill. Then I had to order a lug cutter from brownells to trim it to the right depth. Too much and you'll have to scrap the barrel. But, I'm told there are much easier avenues to go about a good barrel than the way I did mine. As for fitting the internals that was just stone and sand paper and file work. To answer your question, do you need the "1911 only" tools? No, but the right tool for the right job makes your life incredibly easier. If you don't want to invest in those tools, off the top of my head I'd suggest: •A good set of small files •A wide array of stones in varying sizes/shapes/grit •Sand paper ranging from 1500-4000 grit •A good vice •Downloading or buying a copy of The Colt .45 - A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen (available as a free DL if you google it) •Coffee •Something disposable for when you get frustrated Good luck!

Were you able to resolve this? My new CK slide is doing the same thing

You could have it machined, but for the cost of that I'd imagine that it would be cheaper to just buy a 5" .40 Pro. I know a website (I think it's GR tactical) sells top ends, but they're close to the price of a brand new pistol anyways

I have a 2011 .40 with the same thing. I was told that was the chamber indicator

Does anyone know why stages 6, 7, and 9 were pulled? I'm assuming because of the weather, but I had also overheard someone talking on Friday about stage 9 not following some rule about target engagement? Just curious

jjw- it's not the rear that I'm concerned about it, it's a forward thumb rest as pictured in awfaxis' post. Awfaxis- thanks! I'll check those out for sure!

Yeah I meant rear sight haha sorry!

Weak hand thumb. I'm looking for something similar to the thumb rests that attach to the C-more mounts without having to actually put a C-more mount on my pistol.

From my understanding that delrin sleeve you pulled out is pressed in at the factory. Though I do believe you can reinsert it yourself, I'm not aware of a method to do it as I've never done it before. I'm sure it's as easy as pushing/pulling it out and then just being very careful on reinsertion. Also, in the future you want to remove the firing pin assembly before removing the front sight. From personal experience you can cause a small knick or burr in the plastic sleeve that can cause the firing pin/plunger to stick. You also shouldn't need to heat the rear sight up much (if at all) to remove that set screw. I know I haven't had to in the past for any of the M&P's I own/have worked on.

Does anyone make a thumb rest for the M&P? Something similar to the ones that are available for 2011's? I've been looking around for a while and haven't found anything :/ Maybe you guys have come across something?