jonblack

jmorris Can you comment on how the tubing diameter would affect sorting accuracy? For example, would a larger diameter tube sort more accurately as compared to tubing that is smaller in diameter? This is just something I was thinking about and thought maybe you would have some insight. Thank you jonblack

jmorris I really appreciate all of your help and your taking the time to answer my questions. Hopefully I have enough information to build my own machine now. I have wanted one for a couple of years, every since I saw yours. A local indoor range has a commercial sorter, probably a Camdex, but it never was on my to-do list until I saw your machine. Thanks again jonblack

Yeah you are probably right. I'm not sure why I am avoiding just having some shafts turned. I do have a couple of machinist friends. Is the drive end set up the same way as the geared end? Thank you jonblack

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have an indicator but I don't have any v-blocks. I do have some angle iron on hand. Recon I could use the angle and make some makeshift v-blocks? Can you comment on my ideas of using cam followers for the shafts? Thanks a million, you have been very helpful jonblack

I have these aluminum pipes in the back yard. RATS - I can't link to photos as a new member! What is the best way to measure runout on these? I thought I would put a clean cut on the ends and then roll them on the two pieces of steel in the photo and see if I noticed "light gaps" as I rolled them. Is that too crude? Thanks jonblack

I'm trying to find the thread where you said the length of 4130 tubing that you used. From the pictures I am guessing the tubes are about 3 feet long. Can you confirm the length of the tubes? If you were starting from scratch would you make the tubes a little longer or does it really not matter too much? Thank you jonblack

jmorris Thank you for the reply and for providing the additional information. It is evident that you put a ton of thought into your machine. I do have limited access to a mill and a lathe but I don't own either piece of equipment myself. I would have to get a buddy to do it, but I would imagine he would be happy to help. However, anything tasks I could perform myself would be all the better. I have previous looked at using cam followers for the 4130 tubes. I suppose I could also press fit some of sort of bearing with a shoulder on it into the ends of the tubes, and use a bolt to create the "shafts." However, I guess the bolt would have to be a perfect fit or it would induce unwanted run out in the shafts. Any thoughts on my ideas? Thanks again jonblack

I am sorry if I offend anyone for bumping a 5 year old thread. I joined this site to learn more about jmorris's case sorting machine and I had a few questions I wanted to ask him, if I may. 1. I know your 4130 tubes have an OD of 2" but do you know what the wall thickness is? Here are a few sizes I saw online. OD - WALL - ID 2 - 0.049 - 1.902 2 - 0.065 - 1.870 2 - 0.095 - 1.810 2 - 0.120 - 1.760 2 - 0.188 - 1.625 2. Can you tell us more about how you attached the 4130 tubes to the "shafts" that drive them? How is the name of the clamps that hold the "shafts" to the framework? 3. Regarding the gears you used to make the tubes counter-rotate, did you select them specifically to match the finally "tube taper" dimension or were the gears just something you had laying around? Can you give us ideas about alternate counter-rotate mechanisms? I would love to build one of these machines, so any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you jonblack

I have had the CH4D 300 Whisper trim die for a couple of years. It works fine and it will work for making 300 Blackout brass. Yes, you do need to but down your tool head. I just bought an extra one and cut it down using my router. jonblack