modex

Ok that makes sense. So here's a follow up question.. Is it better to start off too loose and then adjust tighter and tighter, or too tight and adjust looser? The reason I ask is because I'm afraid of starting off too tight, pulling the handle to see if it indexes, and subsequently damaging something as a result.

I've been perusing the 1050 manual and doing as much research on the press as possible so I'll be ready for it when it arrives. There is much talk about making sure the shellplate lock ring is tight but not too tight. The manual says to tighten and then back off 1/8 turn. It doesn't specify whether it is and tight or wrench tight. Looking at some of the pictures, I'm guessing hand tight. I searched the forums for discussion on the lock right, but there is no concrete description on how tight it should be. There was one post from dillon saying that if you push down on the edge of the shellplate at station 7 and it feels "springy" that it's too loose. I guess I'll know what he's talking about once I have the press in front of me. Any other "gotchas" or warning signs that I should be on the lookout for?

besides changing dies, case feeder fittings/plate, shellplate, powder feed bushing, and swage backup/expander die, what else is involved going from .223 to 9 or 40? Do you have to adjust the primer punch and bottom swage rod or are the primer pockets pretty much the same?

So it seems every other manufacturer has the instructional videos for their presses up on youtube. And then there's Dillon, who makes you buy a copy for $20. Are there any.. *cough*.. online copies?

Well I just ordered a 1050.. good job talking me out of it guys

Looks like this one was solved with a replacement primer punch. That's hopeful I guess.

Is there a thread with more info on this?

Do they have something similar for rifle?

I noticed that thread. After (despite this thread) leaning toward the 1050 I saw the problems people were having. It looks like a lot if the post were back in 2002.. so I was hoping a lot of the kinks have been worked out of the design. Does that still happen a lot? If I spend the extra money for the 1050 it damn well be reliable. For the price tag, any hiccups every 100rds is unacceptable. Not for that price.

.223 Rem What kind of setups do people run with this device on the 1050? Can you fit it in with all the other dies for a single pass trim and load? Also, does the trim die constrict the mouth of the case during sizing? Do you have to expand afterwards to ease bullet seating? Which die would you use for that?

I always thought the cannelure was meant for accepting a roll crimp, and that a taper crimp is used on rounds without a cannelure. Am I incorrect?

I was just curious if anyone know how undercharged a .223 cartridge has to be for the round to get stuck in the barrel. How much pressure is need to clear a round? The way I see it, there are a few possibilities: 1. bullet never makes it to gas port, and does not cycle 2. bullet makes it past gas port but not out of barrel 3. bullet makes it past gas port, but not out of barrel, and cycles the bolt Is there any possibility of the bolt cycling just from pressure, even if no gas gets to gas port? Let's pretend that powder check dies don't exist.

Wow lots of good input. Thanks guys. I would have to say that cost is somewhat of an issue. The 1050 is significantly more expensive than the 650. I'm really a casual shooter so I wonder if the 1050 is just too much press. I just want my reloading sessions to be smooth and quick. I also want to have a case feeder and eventually a bullet collator/feeder. So I think that eliminates any manual indexing presses like the 550. How is the priming system on the 1050? I kind of like being able to feel the prime happen, because I can tell right there if something went wrong. Can you tell if something didn't prime right with the 1050 or does it just smash the primer? Also, how are is it to achieve the correct priming depth adjustment on the 1050? How do you know when it's seating just right and not creating any additional pressure on the primer?

Seems expensive sending my brass out for swaging. How expensive is a caliber change? The article on it listed the conversion kit and dies.. but didn't say anything about the case feeder parts. Don't I need a new plate? Also, I have enough of a stockpile where I would only change calibers once a month (at most) just to add to my supply. I'm never in a situation where I have to load a specific caliber at a specific time. Does anyone else have a schedule for doing different calibers?

First off some background: I have reloading experience in 9mm/40SW as well as .223. I started with pistol on a Lee Pro1k, then moved to .223. The Lee wasn't cutting it for rifle, so I picked up a used Pro-Jector. But I'm past that and am ready to move onto a new modern press. For a while I was down to 2 choices: Hornady or Dillon. Specifically, the XL650 vs the LnL AP. But then I started considering the 1050. I don't shoot even close to 4000rds of any caliber in a month. Not only that, I switch calibers a lot. The only thing about the 1050 that I need is the auto swager. Swaging 5.56 brass is a pain in the ass with just the super swager. It would be much faster if I could do it progressively as part of reloading. But that's the only thing keeping the 1050 on my radar. If I knew of another solution that worked on the 650 or LnL AP, then 1050 would be off my list. I also plan on getting a case feeder for whichever press I get, as well as the Hornady bullet collator/feeder.