jcmios
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Posts posted by jcmios
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Thanks to everyone for the advise. I will try the lighter springs.
Jim
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I bought a G35 6 months ago and have added a metal guide rod and a 19lbs Wolff spring in it. I shoot 155 LSW and 180 FMJ in it. My question is what do most other 35 owners use in theirs? I have seen a lot of discussions that mention light and heavy springs but few mention the exact weight. My 35 functions 100% with my set up but was interested in what others use?
Thanks in advance
Jim
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I bought a G35 6 months ago and have added a metal guide rod and a 19lbs Wolff spring in it. I shoot 155 LSW and 180 FMJ in it. My question is what do most other 35 owners use in theirs? I have seen a lot of discussions that mention light and heavy springs but few mention the exact weight. My 35 functions 100% with my set up but was interested in what others use?
Thanks in advance
Jim
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Dupont Pre-Sol is an automotive metal and paint degreaser and wax remover that is used to prep surfaces prior to painting them. I buy it by the gallon and pour it in an old ammo can with a good or well sealing lid. Strip down the gun and place the parts in and clean with an old tooth brush. As for the barrel just use a brass brush and let soak. Remove parts, and re oil. It does evaporate so make sure your ammo can has a good lid, has a low odor so the Misses won't complain and is safe on all surfaces, plastic to metal. Only thing I don't use it on is my camo hunting shotgun, I think even simple green will remove that stuff.
Jim
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I have tested a mix of Slide Glide, McCormick’s trigger slick and Mil-Tec oil. 10cc of Slide Glide, 10cc of Trigger Slick and 6 drops of Mil Tec oil. It has the adhesion properties of Slide Glide but works at freezing temps and seems to be even slicker across the board.
Give it a try; I load it in a syringe with a 18ga flexible cathider for easy application.
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It does work well as long as the slide to frame fit is not too tight, if it is the compound will make it wear faster then with a good straight gun oil or grease like slide glide. As the word Anti Seize "Compound" refers to small and sometimes Sharpe and hard additives that can mess up a good tight fit. I find on a tight gun a good light coat of oil is better then and thick grease, it is basic hydraulics at work.
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Lewis or Hoppe’s lead removal tool followed up by Shooters Choice lead remover and an oversized brass brush. The Shooters Choice says not to leave it sit in the barrel more then 15 min but I have left it in over night with no ill effects.
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Metaloy, they use to do Wilsons work. I have a Wilson LE comp from 1985 and it has heldup well, still looks new. Over 100,000 rounds what can I say but praise. Sent them a Caspian frame 6 years ago and they did a great job on that too.
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I have a Clark 6" 10mm ramped barrel with a 5 port comp and it functions 100%. Never a problem and shoots better then I ever will be able too.
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A good CZ smith is in Iowa, Miossi Gun Works, they do real nice work on CZ actions. Also if you buy a Promag for the cz75 in 40 caliber they work great with 9mm and hold 13or 14 rounds.
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Check the mags, 90%+ of semi auto malfunctions are caused by magazine problems. Try a different mag after disassembling and cleaning the gun.
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Stock Glock in your choice of calibers or a Stock CZ-75 in 40S&W the latter will need a trigger job. I would suggest Miossi Gun Works in Iowa, he does great work on CZ's and their clones.
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Or you could build it into my favorite caliber, 10mm. I have 2 1911's in 10 and they are great guns with lots of possibilities like switching barrels and springs to make it a 40S&W and 357Sig. Wilson 45 mags will work with all three.
Just food for thought.
Jim
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hilarious
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I have tested a mix of Slide Glide, McCormick’s trigger slick and Mil-Tec oil. 10cc of Slide Glide, 10cc of Trigger Slick and 6 drops of Mil Tec oil. It has the adhesion properties of Slide Glide but works at freezing temps and seems to be even slicker across the board.
Give it a try; I load it in a syringe with a 18ga flexible cathider for easy application.
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As to the origonal question:
Sure it will work for faster reloads and possibly to handle higher preasures but I would wait for the price of the ammo to drop or pick up some free range brass befors spending much on it.
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In addition to bountyhunters well described procedure for polishing the rebound slide and frame, don't forget to polish the spring hole in the rebound slide. I have found a number with small burs and machine marks in them. To polish these take a small metal rod and tape and wrap 600 or 800 grit wet/dry paper to it until it is a snug fit, then add a couple of drops of honing oil and rotate the in and out as you polish and remove any burs or machine marks away. This allows the slide to move freely with the lightest of springs.
Jim
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Get into reloading it is fun and rewarding in itself. Then practice a lot with the gun (s) you have. When you have mastered that invest in a custom gun with all the bells and whistles. But make sure you just have plain old fun in doing so.
Jim
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I too would suggest an investment in reloading equipment. However the bottom line is this. Shoot for the fun of it, that’s what it is all about. Some people are very competitive and spend lots of money to win but if you have fun shooting you have already won.
Jim
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Well done at putting thoughts into fabrication.
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Does Vanek have a web site?
Thanks
Jim
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The finish is the same Tenifer base, it is just not as rough as the old "pre 2001" guns.
Jim
Certified Glock Armorer
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WD-40 followed by a toothbrush. Make sure to then get the WD-40 off with some Simplegreen then re oil with your gun oil very lightly and wipe off.
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The only 45ACP brass I won't use is Amerc ,S&B. and restamped brass from commercial reloaders.
Jim
Help needed with reloads
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
The Lyman 48th and Pistol and Revolver reload manuals have these bullet weights in both cast and plated / jacketed and can be used interchangeably as long as you don't start out with the max load. They also list major power factor loads for competition shooting.
Jim