jcmios
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Posts posted by jcmios
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Make sure the platform head bolts have not become loose. This happened to me and I set off one primer and KABOOM the whole tube of 70 some primers followed suit. Dillon sent out all the parts that were damaged and thats when I found the cause of the problem. Now I check them when ever change the shell plate and all has been great for 6 + years. Mine would flip and crush 6 or 7 % large and small.
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Make sure your primer seat assembly is screwed in all the way
sorry for the double post
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Make sure your primer seat assembly is screwed in all the way
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Sounds like you need to throat the barrel and make sure your barrel and feed ramp are not flush. Check this with the barrel our of the slide and place it right up flush in the frame, if it is flush file the bottom third so you have a gap of 1/32". Then throat the barrel, remove the metal at the same angle as the existing ramp. This does require a good moto tool, proper size stone/sanding wheel and the proper sized Cratex cutters in medium and fine or extra fine for the final polish. If you do not have the tools or access then take it to a good 1911 smith, it can also be done on a mill with carbide cutters and the proper barrel holder. The ramp may also need some attention, it should be the proper angle and polished mirror bright and smooth with jewelers polish.
The ammo must be loaded so that the shoulder of the SWC is forward of the brass. The best OAL is 1.255" to 1.260". Lastly some magazines just will not feed SWC without adjustment, Wilson # 47 magazines are one of the best and now have been copied by a lot of the bigger names, but a couple they are well worth it.
I have never had a gun that could not be tuned to work with H&G68 SWC's.
Jim
Miossi Gun Works LLC
22581 Campfire Rd
Monticello, IA 52310
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To bake the 9mm brass center on the rod go to the hardware store and buy a foot of small vinyl tubing, I forget the size just bring a case with you.
Jim
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So much confusion or so many ways of lubricating the pivot pins from zerk fittings to needle and chain saw lubricators which are all great. However I have found the use of aerosol white lithium grease, care must be used so as not to make a mess but with the straw hose tip you can insert it into the holes with a rag around it to catch extra grease. The grease uses a fast evaporating carrier that allows a couple of minuets for it to carry the grease like a super light oil during which you operate the press handle and distribute the grease. It will come to a consistency of a tub of white lithium grease in a few minuets then apply a bit more until you are done. Next to installing fittings next time you disassemble the press so as to not get fine metal chips and dust from drilling and taping on the assembled assembly, this works the best for me as I know the grease with the carrier gets to where it is needed.
Jim
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I too got a lot of errors with mine at first, but I had purchased the infered system as I do have a small Detroit Bullet Trap with a 12X12 opening and rated to all center fire handguns up to .44mag. Since using the infered I very rarely get any errors, I have not tried it outside with the infered but will now try it as I now have a small 120 power source.
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I have used my PACT Mark 4 XP Championship Shot Timer and Chronograph a lot mostly the chronograph with inferred sky screens a few years back, but we moved and it took a long time to get back to needing to use the timer and now need the chrono. I have looked high and low but can not find the manual which is needed as any user knows it can be a bit intimidating if you do not use it on a continual basic. I have gone to Pacts site but they do not offer a downloadable manual so short of calling and purchasing a new one I thought I would ask here first if anyone knows where I can find one on the web. If not I have no problem paying Pact for a replacement.
Thanks
Jim
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How do you dump in into a spread sheet? Do you cut and paste it or do you impore it and if so how so?
Thanks
Jim
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I tried the Lee FCD and after working with it for over a couple of months I still could not get the same (better) accuracy from it as with my taper crimp die. I have one of the First Dillon crimp dies and it has and still serves me quite well. I tried the FCD is 40 S&W , 9mm and 223 but went back to my old taper crimp dies and sold the FCD's
Jim
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I am very disappointed in Pacts software for the XP timer/chronograph, I sure hope they work on an improved version that gives the data in a usable format like that of the review with the SD,AD High, and low displayed instead of just each shot velocity.
Maybe someone will write some thire party softwaer for it.
Jim
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Carlos thank you for the kind words. I rarely shoot 9mm except for when shooting customers guns but do have a few 9's in my collection and was interested in seeing and feeling the differance with the 9 major. I figured the fast powders were too fast but I do have some other powders a few that you have mentioned and wwill try them. I also have 124 and 147grs bullets and will go with the 124. I appreciate the load info and will check my loading manuals load some up and break out the chronograph as soon as I get a little free time.
Thanks for your reply's
Jim
BTW, I did find a AA#7 load from the Lyman Pistol & Revolver Reloading Handbook, Second Edition; Page 146.The load is NOT for the 9x19mm, but rather for the 9x21. HOWEVER, the minimum OAL is designed to work with 9x19mm guns of strong design and modern manufacture. The CZ is modern; it did not exist befor '75. It is strong, using a Browning lock up.
Here is the load from page 146: 9mm FMJ/FP, 124 Grn, AA#7 Start: 7.3 grns MAXIMUM load: 9.8 grns. Max load velocity: 1335 FPS: 165 PF. Pressure: 32,100 C.U.P.
Again, please make the OAL LONG for safety. Also, please verify this load with the reloading manual and use only new brass or 1x fired brass.
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I need some data on 9mm major using a 115fmj and either AA#5, AA#7, WW231, or Bullseye.
Thank you in advance
Jim
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If you call EGW and talk to George I believe they will weld up the old cut and recut to the desired ramped barrel cut.
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Buy the EGW under sized 40S&W die and you will have no problems. Dillon dies are the worst combo for a Glock stock barrel with mid to full power loads.
http://www.egw-guns.com/egw.htm Listed under tools.
jim
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The Reah dosn't even compare to the Vanek trigger job.
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Looks like a good Gkosk to shake hands with. Tell the bad guy you agree and offer to shake on it, just make sure you have the right end in your hand. LOL
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I have to chime in here again. I have had a great time developing loads for the 45GAP. Here are a couple of loads that show no signes of high preasure and are more the just close to or equil to my belovid 45ACP.
1) Powder Accurate Arms #5 9.0grs
Primer Federal small pistol
Brass Star
Bullet Hornady XTP 185grs
Seat to an OAL of 1.066
Standard velocity 1035fps
2) Powder Accurate Arms #5 8.2grs
Primer Federal small pistol
Brass Star
Bullet Hornady XTP 200grs
Seat to an OAL of 1.085
Standard velocity 1047fps
3) Powder Titegroup 4.9grs
Primer Federal small pistol
Brass Speer Once fired
Bullet Remington 185 Golden Saber
Seat to an OAL of 1.089
Standard velocity 886fps
4) Powder Titegroup 5.1grs
Primer Federal small pistol
Brass Speer Once fired
Bullet Remington 185 Golden Saber
Seat to an OAL of 1.089
Standard velocity 929fps
5) Powder Titegroup 5.3grs
Primer Federal small pistol
Brass Speer Once fired
Bullet Remington 185 Golden Saber
Seat to an OAL of 1.089
Standard velocity 989fps
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If I were you I would find a way to start reloading. You don't need to go all out right away, Lee has a good set up starter set for about $100.00 and it has all that you need to safely get started. You will recoup your costs within a few shooting sessions. Best of all is you learn a lot and it is fun. As time goes by you can save up for a Dillon press and speed things up.
I started 32 years ago with a single stage press, dies, powder measure, scale, trimmer and two reloading manuals. I learned a lot about what makes an accurate reload. Now I have 2 Dillon 650's and one 550. I reload for 16 different calibers and really enjoy it.
Jim
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Well the recoil is softer in so far as the slide not slamming home so hard that it is what I call counter recoil. All I can say is try it and I know you will like it. Personally I use IMSI springs and guide rods.
For a long time I was using too much spring, but after trying the gamut I have found the best control with the lightest spring to do the job, and with the Glock the frame foes flex and is not nearly as susceptible to frame battering as a steal gun.
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I would go with the 35. I have both the 22 and the 35, but for competition I would go with the 35 for a few reasons. One it comes with the 3.5 connector already, no biggie but nothing to sneeze at, also with an open top slide you can get a second barrel that is ported and shoot in 2 classes, the extra weight out front is a help. Last thing I would suggest is getting a 13lbs IMSI spring and using that, you will find recovery is much faster.
Jim
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An absolute must and first thing to check and turn off is Windows XP firewall, and it is a good idea to turn off any other firewall software you have running. Your router will have a firewall built in, hardware firewalls are much better then software firewalls. Even once your network is up and running do not run Win XP firewall ever nor any others.
Next name your network and do not use default SSID, use your network name. Set to assign IP addresses automatically. Add MS Networking on both computers and bind TCP/IP and NW Link IPX/SPX/NetBIOS protocol to your NIC cards. Reboot and in the run box type "WINIPCFG" this will show your configuration and what protocols are loaded and running. If you have all 802.1G wireless enable the G feature otherwise disable it or make sure it is set to fall back to 802.1B. If you have 2 identical addresses change one manually, I like to set them up in order such as 192.168.0.101, 192.168.0.102, 192.168.0.103, ect. Also make sure your sub net mask is set to 255.255.255.0. Reboot your router and computers and they should connect.
Just because you have lights on the router and NIC cards do not mean your net work is talking, it only means that the equipment is trying to communicate.
As a last ditch effort on the desktop change the PCI slot the NIC card is in, when you reboot it will say new hardware found, continue with the install procedure again, this often does the trick on wireless setup
D-Link makes great wired and wireless networking equipment, I install a lot of them, stay away from Net Gear, it is much harder to configure unless you have done it a few times.
Best of luck
Jim
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Ammo can half full of Du Ponts Prep Sol for the entire gun and barrel. Oils are Break Free, FP-10 Mil Tech and Mobil 1
Been at it for over 24 years and the Prep Sol is the best.
Jim
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Fomeister I hate to say it but I would seriously start saving up my pennies and selling what I did not need so as to get a new custom gun that the builder will stand behind to the point of building you new for no cost. I still like Wilson’s; they make it right or build you a completely new gun.
Best of luck.
Hard chrome?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Metaloy does a great job with fast turn around times, they have been in the game almost from the beginning as far as hard chrome and firearms. If you need both hard chrome and blueing for a two tone Fords does excellent work but as of june 2012 the wait time was close to a full year. I have used them for most of my customers guns that needed two tone or other finishes but not any longer with that long of a wait.
Jim