Chutist
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Posts posted by Chutist
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I have a Romeo3Max ( 3 MOA ) on an X5, Holosun 507COMP's on a couple of Glocks and a MECANIK 03 on a Canik Rival S. All 3 work pretty well.
Of the 3 the Holosun 507Comp 3 MOA is the safe bet.
The Max is TOO much money, I'd never buy one again. (As is SRO)
The MECANIK 03 is looks pretty good and is CHEAP ($200 delivered) but it's too early to tell if it will hold up. If it holds up they will have out Holosun'd, Holosun!
FIW to my eye the dots are all about the same size, the brightness effects apparent size more than what is listed on the box - 3 MOA or 6 MOA. Window are big enough on all 3.
Below:
RIval S/ME03 - Glock 34 / Holosun 507 Comp - Sig X5 /MAX
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@tt350z Thanks, the pictures helped.
The issue was the outside diameter of the BDS threaded inserts was .200 and the inside diameter of the BOSS Y hanger was .185 so the inserts would not go in the holes of the Y.
Hanger is aluminum and I decided I was going to make it work.
I mounted the Y up in a vice and found a drill bit that was .202 - Carefully drilled each of the 3 holes on the Y. Insets went right in...
I'm guessing the Henning has bigger holes.
Took a couple of tries to find the right screw / spacer / threaded insert combination. With it mounted to the Y, I'm hoping the rest of the install goes smoothly.
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It did but they show those being used from the hangar side rather than the holster side.
I may flipping them to come from the holster side and see if they will go and then look for some screws that will reach them from the hanger side...
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Anybody use this combo? After looking at a bunch of holsters for CO, I ended up picking the Carnivore.
(GX and several others were on the list but I need one NOW)
I have a BOSS that I want to mount it too. I was a bit disappointed when I got the holster and it's got a bit of a "non-standard" mounting arrangement. The pattern is right but the hardware is different...
Most of the other holsters use that pattern but the Carnivore doesn't have the threaded inserts that most have...
Just need a way to get the "Y" from the Boss bolted to the holster.
I have reached out to BDS but thought I post and see if somebody here had solved the problem.
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Those that don't study history are doomed to repeat it.
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I've been working though this as well with my return to the sport.
Twilk - Shred is on target
I dropped points a few times and had uncalled rounds in hardcover...etc. Working through this in dry fire and starting to see the results after a couple of months. Points are getting better and I shot a match "clean" ( No Mikes, Noshoots or hardcover...) Last night.
Just keep working, it gets better.
Edit: Do try occluding the dot. Painters tape works great. It makes it REALLY obvious if your are target focused or the looking at the dot.
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Welcome, lots of good info here!
Chris
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I saw one demo where they tried to over insert the mag and have it drag on the underside of the slide and it would not. Guess that was one of the issues....
I'm probably going to get one. They seem to be popping up then selling out. Guess I gotta be fast! LOL!!!
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I did get to shoot an indoor match with the Johnny Glock trigger in my G34 tonight. Ran great after backing out the set screw 1/2 turn.
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I'm back after a long lay off. I found CO to be very fun. Still working back up to speed. Shooting plenty of points, just standing around admiring my work to much.
I've found Ben Steiger's stuff on YouTube to be helpful with shooting the dot.
Have Fun!
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Thinking about dipping a toe in the Canik waters. Tracked some of the issues with the earlier Steel frame guns. Noticed the guns disappeared for quite a while - no stock anywhere. Seeing them starting to pop up in stock now after several months. Reading that they did some small updates / fixed.
Who's got one? How's it going so far?
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I have two 34's, 17 and a 47. I shoot the 34's mostly - it's all preference. There is no "better". I really like the feel of the 47 too and as soon as I get another Holosun 507 Comp for it, i'll give it a go at a match.
I wrote a very long post up on one of the other CO threads about Triggers, mags, optics you might find interesting.
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Just went down this rabbit hole.
For background - I carried Glocks and was a LE Armorer for my dept.
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First up, years ago (10+)....
G35 with a trigger so light (2 pounds?) it would double from time to time. I forget who made it. I'd have to go pull the Glock Box out of the safe to see. But not recommended. I ran this as a limited gun with irons.
Second try was a few years later, I put a Timney in a Gen 5 G34. Pro's? It stacks up nice with a clean break. Con's - Still 4 pounds. I find the trigger safety lever / Trigger face rubs my finger to the point of making is sore. I was thinking of putting one of the Johnny Glock reshaped triggers on it. It's very usable but....read on.
Third try is a FULL Johnny Glocks Competition Trigger group ( including the striker and springs ) I put in a second Gen 5 Glock 34. I just got it a few weeks back and have only shot one match with it. It's light about 2.5 pounds. It's funny it has some "creep" in the take up in slow fire but if you slap it like you do in USPSA you never notice. It feels like a revolver - it "rolls" though the stroke. Not as much of a "wall" and break like the Timney. His reshaped trigger feels great. His stuff looks like Jewelry - polished and VERY shiny.
After some match rain outs and work trips. I finally got to shoot the trigger in a match last week. Below is what I wrote Johnny after:
========================I took it to an indoor range and ran 200 rounds to get it settled on Friday. Shot a USPSA all classifier match Saturday. 8 Stages, it ran good for the first 6. When “Unload and show clear” after stage 6, I pulled the trigger and the sear hesitated to release. I took it to the safe area and removed the slide, everything looked good, Wiped everything out quickly and reassembled. Dry fired a few times and it worked okay.The next stage I engaged the first array, ran to the second and pulled the Trigger - Nothing, trigger was dead. Racked the live round out, trigger reset and I finished the stage. Back to the safe area and slathered the trigger group with oil. Normally I don’t oil Glock triggers but I was out of ideas. Shot the last stage and it worked.Don’t know where to go from here. Gun has maybe 700 rounds and ran fine stock. I don’t understand it releasing the sear some times and not the next? What should I do to “fix” it?====================================Johnny's response:"Back out The set screw that is either in the back of the trigger shoe or it's in the back of the trigger housing back it out a half turn counterclockwise"=======================================I've done that and will shoot it tomorrow at an indoor match.Read this far? LOL!!!!LAST ONE - I got a Glock Performance trigger as a gift this weekend and dropped it in a Glock 47. Stock the gun was close to 6 pounds on a Lyman digital gage. After? About 3.5 pound, nice feel and a nice "break". If had another Holosun 507 Comp to put on it, this gun would go to the match tomorrow.If I had it to do over, knowing what I know now....
Buy the Glock Performance trigger. It's very similar to the Timney in feel with a better trigger face. 100 Bucks DONE.Happy to field any follow up questions.------ Mags & stuff -----Talon Grip tape applied with a heat gun is great!Optic - Holosun 507 Comp. ( I have others, this is what I'll buy more of at this point)Base pads - I have one Henning (23) & one very old Grams(22). Both work fine. I have TTI on a bunch of other stuff and I'm sure they are fine on Glocks too. One note - I bought and MBX Spring and Follower that was supposed to get 24 with the Henning. I spent a half hour but I could NOT get that thing in the mag and get the base pad on! The regular Henning spring? No problem... I might buy a Taylor Freelance to try.Oh and I WOULD NOT change any of the recoil springs. It's a Glock, don't over think it.
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And cheap blue painters tape works just fine to occlude the dot.
Cheap, easy and will show you if you are target focused.
Grip....as it's been taught for the past 20 years with both thumbs forward and the non dominant rotated down. The revelation is - having enough grip panel engagement with the heel of the support hand that you can squeeze the fingers of the support hand against the heel and it dosent break down ( move, slip, shift ) as the gun cycles.
For me, skateboard tape helps everything stay put...YMMV.
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I bought these on Amazon and I'm happy so far... Funny thing is I saw the SAME ones for $250 at the local range.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W56YRWJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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Why cut the slide? Why not just run the EGW plate than uses the rear sight notch?
https://egwguns.com/trijicon-rmr-sro-holosun-407c-507c-mount-for-glock
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Just got the complete comp kit with striker and dropped in a new G34 Gen 5 yesterday. Dropped the pull from 5.5 on my Lyman digital gage to 2.5.
I've got mixed feelings at this point. There is some drag at spots in the take up. And there is more take up than I expected. Once you hit the actual "wall" it's clean as you get striker fired and the reset is short and positive. I can certainly run it.
I'm going to pull my other 34 that has a Timney in it and compare.
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On 1/20/2024 at 7:34 PM, calvinc78 said:
Ya I’ve watched a bunch of his videos and that sold me on his trigger. It feels good but just disappointed on the scale. I’m going to reach out to him Tuesday morning.
How did that go? Did you get it "Fixed"?
I'm shopping for triggers.... Trying to decide which way to go - GPT and tune, JG, Timney...
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On 1/31/2024 at 5:46 PM, 625 said:
For day to day use a sig 365 is hard to beat.
This.
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Springer on mine too
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I've seen them pop up in stock but they go fast. I just bought a P320 Scorpion AXG. Grey Guns released 3. I bought it the MINUTE I saw the email. Lucky I was on my computer when it came in, they were sold within minutes. I got the 3rd of the 3
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I get it if you already have the gun and want to add the optic...
But otherwise I can't see passing on a factory setup. Liked the 17 MOS so much I bought a 34 MOS yesterday! The MOS plates work well and if I decided to sell it, MOS has better resale value than a non-factory cut slide!
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On 12/22/2020 at 2:07 PM, ima45dv8 said:
The post that came up through the trigger guard wasn't a defective design element, but the occasional stupid person would try to box their gun while loaded. In an effort to protect those dummies from themselves, and to reduce the likelihood for frivolous lawsuits resulting from other people's bad decisions, the post was removed. And a lot of people had trouble getting the lid to snap back in place so the hinged covered was brought into play.
I actually like the new boxes better.
All true....
And I like the new boxes better too.
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I have 5 or 6 hundred though my new MPX and just (like I just washed my hands and sat down...) finished cleaning it for the first time. Hit it with some gun scrubber, cleaned the bore and and wiped down the bolt assembly. Sort of interesting the way the spring assembly cam's into the bolt group. Lubed it all down with one of the Sig "Ketchup packets" of oil. I was surprised how easy it was to deal with and how smooth the bolt worked after a good clean and lube! It was "cleaning day" did my AR, Sig 365, Sig P320 CO gun and the MPX. The one packet of oil was enough for all!
So far it's run everything without a hiccup - Coated reloads, cheap steel cased stuff and regular factory 9mm. Giggle every time I shoot it...
I do plan to get a Lula to load mags with!
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Carry Optics Class - What Red-Dot?
in Open Pistols
Posted
That’s how I took it.
And that’s why I spent some time on a detailed answer