Jeremiah

Could someone explain, in detail, what "hyperextending the wrist" means in regards to a strong thumb riding the safety type of grip? Does it mean that the off hand's wrist is cocked so the hand is under the forearm? I guess it would be like I was going to pick up a broom stick and point it out away from me like a sword with my left hand? Is that the wrist position I should look for for my left wrist? I chronoed my wolf ammo today to see what the power factor is. It chronoed at 918 and this was a 230 gr fmj. That comes to a pf of about 210. How much faster could I get using the bare minimum, for IDPA, of 165? Would that require a spring change, and what weight would do it? Thanks. By the way, this site helped me threw the process of buying my first 1911. Thanks guys, I'm really happy with my smith! After about five hundred rounds, not one single failure of any kind.

I just watch "shooting fast and accurately" by Lenny M. In that video, there is a section that times each of the top shooters from the holster to a shot. Most of the guys are incredibly fast. I believe the Benos was one if not the fastest. Anyway... Are these guys flipping the thumb safety off between the shot and the holster? I don't shoot IPSC much at all (there is none around here) and am mostly an IDPA shooter, so I was just wandering if the grip safety is used all the time or not in IPSC or not. Also, on a side note. I have read some of Brian's stuff about the grip. He says that you need to keep your thumbs off of the gun. Does that mean that I need to flip my thumb safety off and then take my thumb off of it? Thanks.

Thanks for insulting my intelligence, you taught me something... Thanks again. By the way, this gun has a much better trigger on it than the Springfield custom full size and the kimber Target II. The springfield was much heavier, and the kimber had all kinds of creep. I think I got the best trigger out of all three of these guns. The only thing that may of gotten me to buy a springfield was the fact that it had a ambi safety and has a high luster finish. The kimber is over priced from what I have seen shopping around the last several weeks. I got the smith because of the creepless trigger, the three dot sights, and the external extractor. It also has a 3 to 4.5 pound trigger, the springer has a 5 to 6 pounder. The kimber sights are too small, and they run about $100 bucks more that the other two. But, the only reason I didn't get a Dan Wesson Patriot is because I couldn't find one to buy. I balanced the decision over and over, and the smith was the right 1911 for me and my needs. Thanks for everyone in this thread that helped me with my search.

I ran 100 rds through the smith tonight. No failures whatsever. The only problem I'm having right now is dropping the slide with just one thumb. The slide release is incrdibly stiff. Is there anything I can do? Or, do I just wait for it to loosen up on it's own? Also, what is the set screw in the trigger for? Overtravel or take up?

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice. I just ordered a smith and wesson 1911. I hope I like it. It comes with wilson mags. Are these some pretty good ones? I need at least one more, which one should I get? Price is a factor, of course.

I had the chance to look at some guns this weekend when the gun show was in town. I had a springfield loaded full size and a dan wesson patriot side by side. The fit and finish was better on the patriot. No two ways about it. I know this is just two guns, and the next two could be totally different, but it really opened my eyes. As of now, I'm seriously pursuing a dan wesson. I liked what I saw. I can't find a new one anywhere but "Dan wesson direct" on gunbroker. Does anyone know of any dealers that has one in stock?

Hey guys, Dan wesson, what do you think? I just read the 1911forums review and they liked it. I see that they have some very quality parts inside, as in STI and McCormick triggers, safeties, and mags. They are also cheaper than the sprinfield and the kimbers. What do you think?

How come no one has mentioned Dan Wesson? They seem to make a very high quality 1911 in the price bracket with springfield and kimber. I have seen a few with chip mccormick insides. This is who I meant to say when I said that charles daly had chip insides, not CD, but DW.

I just want everyone to know that springfield has a "mil spec" that runs about $500 new on the various internet auction sites. Springfield also has a "WWII mil spec" that goes for just under $400 to just over. From what I've been seeing, there is a ton of difference in the two models. If I buy new, is there any differences in quality between a kimber custom II and a springfield loaded full size? I want nice a slick fixed sights, so I'm not interested in adjustable sights. The springfield has novaks, the kimber has a look alike, but they don't name them. The springfield comes with a ambi safety and extended mag release, the kimber doesn't have either. Is there anything I'm missing? The kimber are about $50 more, on average?

Someone clarify what a "full power" .45 load is. Is the minimum power factor in CDP at "full power" status, or well below that? I have my eye on a kimber Tactical and I am interested in the outcome of this thread before I bid. Thanks, from a newbie.

Joe, what are you saying and to who? Are you saying that you would rather shoot a 1911 in a 40? I hear that the 1911 design doesn't do well in 40, any truth to that? What mods do you make to keep it from slide locking on a loaded round in the mag?

So, Jim, what your saying is, if I'm not a competent gunsmith, don't go with a 40? I'm not going to take much convincing to go with the 45.

Hey guys, I found a kimber custom II, stainless, in 40 S&W for $665. I'm really thinking about it. Would this be the ticket for ESP? I THINK I want a 40, but it worries that I don't see any more than I do out there for sale. I want a 40 for the cheaper amo costs over the 45. I think a 40 would recoil less and therefore be a little faster also. Are these good enough reasons to go with a 40, or should I just go ahead and get a 45 and shoot in cdp? By the way, what is the standard mag capacity in a 1911 chamered for 40, in say, a kimber? Are mags hard to find? Another thing, when I had my last 1911, a thompson auto-ordinance, I shot cast bullets through it. I don't remember having any trouble with them feeding, but that was 10 years ago. Does anyone out there practice or shoot competition with cast bullets? Is there anything special you do in the cleaning department to make sure the gun stays reliable?

What model kimber are you shooting? Do you recommend this caliber/model combination for IDPA? What things have you done to it to make better?

I haven't been shooting IDPA for long, and I am enjoying it right now, but I have never shot a IPSC match. The only glaring problem I see in IDPA is the divisions and how you only compete against divisional oponents. If IDPA is supposed to be like the real world, why not everybody shoots against everybody? I mean, if a bad guy pulls out a 1911, and I'm packing a revolver, that's just too bad for me. That's how it should be in IDPA. If you don't think you can defend yourself from a auto in the real world with a revolver, why would you want to shoot one in IDPA or vice versa.

A 1911 in anthing smaller, like 38 super or 9 mm, would be in the ESP division, not in the CDP class. If I read the rules right anyway, I'm also a learning rookie. So, I would think that if you're playing "gamer," a 1911 in these calibers would be a disadvantage against the high powers and the XD's because of magazine capacity. That is my opinion anyway, if someone disagrees, I'd love to hear it and the reason for it. Like I said, I'm just learning too.

I guess I don't know what YMMV is? What makes kimber a better gun than a springfield? By the way, if you shoot 2000 rounds a month, you can go ahead and call me a plinker! I don't have time to shoot that much amo, because I shoot at least that many "rounds" out of my bow a month. That is where I'm most competive. So, if anyone wants to swap 1911 advice for bow advice, I'm willing to trade. There are a bunch of models in the kimber line. I think most of you know what I'm looking for or at least should be looking for. Which model should I be looking at from Kimber?

Ok, then, you say I'd need to add $200 "smacker" to a mil spec in order to have a reliable and very shootable gun. That puts my total up to about $650. What $650 or less gun would be better? Where is the threshold where all the guns start to run together in quality? $500? $600? $1000? Where at? Who knows anything about the charles daly's? They seem to have mccormick insides and nice finishes. They also have the high rise beavertail, ambi safeties, combat hammers, and skeletonized triggers standard. They seem like the best deal out there, but I have never seen one in the flesh. Oh, best part, they are less than $500 new. I'll check into the bo mar sights.

Wow, you guys have been incredibly informative and have really opened my eyes on this subject. I have been looking at some springfield mil spec's and they seem to hover around my budget nicely. They are also praised over on 1911forum.com. If I do end up getting a springfield, I'm going to want to play around with it a little. I know that I like novak sights. The novaks seem like they would slide in and out of a holster very well. As far as triggers go, I'm less certain. If I do a trigger job, do you really have to replace the hammer, sear, and main spring to really reap the benefits? I see that a mccormick trigger is only about $30, but if you add in the other stuff you end up pushing a lot closer to $100. I know I'll do this stuff as money allows because I'm a tinkerer at heart. Man, I can see this forum costing me a lot of money on down the road.....

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but isn't the sprinfield mil spec a non-ramped gun?

OK, maybe I've come to grips with the fact that I can't get a good one cheap. If I'm going up to the six or seven hundred dollar level, what do I get? I'm not opposed to used. What would it cost me to get a springfield mil spec to run? That seems to be a solid base to work from. Are there any options out there in .40 sw? That's what I'm set up to load. Are there any obvious downsides to shooting a .40 in a 1911? By the way, I can't shoot a glock fast to save my life. That swept back backstrap causes me to shoot to high when I'm trying to be fast. It is something I'd have to get used to I guess. I hate to highjack my own thread, but I'm looking for another IDPA gun in general. I thought that a 1911 would be a cheap way to get a good gun, but maybe I was wrong. What's the most reliable gun out there, that isn't a glock, that would be competitive right out of the box, or maybe just a trigger job for IDPA, any class in a .40 or bigger. The 9's won't knock our clubs hinged steel targets over, which are way illegal, so a 9 won't work.

Ok guys, I'm starting to see a pattern here. The mil spec by springfield is very reasonably priced. I could probably swing one of those. What would I have to spend on a good trigger, and what kind of trigger does everyone here recommend? I know about rifle triggers, jewel, timney, and the like, but who makes a good 1911 trigger? Is there any other on line classifieds that are good places to look other than cruffler, gunsamerica, and gunbroker? Thanks for the help.

I'm looking for a solid, functional, no frills 1911 on a incredibly tight budget. I saw that Charles Daly has a very low priced 1911 this year. Does anyone know anything about them? I also keep hearing about this Rock Island 1911, good or bad? Both guns are under $400. Is there anything else out there I should be considering? I just found this site, looks like a good one!