mbabin

10:1 ratio of Isopropyl alcohol to lanolin oil. works great! I just put it in a cheapo spray bottle.

Per Lee: " The Letter/Number stampings on our reloading dies are an internal manufacturing date code telling us when we made the dies. The Letter represents a month and the number represents the year, starting in 2000. For example A6 = January 2006, B6 = February 2006, etc. In years that have the same last number, such as "0", it could represent either 2000 or 2010. "

I have 2 Lee 223 FL sizing dies. Not sure how I got them, set wise. But they are stamped differently. One is 223-K1 and the other is 223-B7. Anyone know what the difference is? searching left me with nothing.

besides proper fitting in to the chamber, consistency for bullet seating is a major reason to trim.

The brass that tested was acceptable in length according to my case gauge. I do trim when they get to long but these seem to be in range. But I will continue to keep a lookout for the length.

Interesting that it would be so dramatic on factory crimps. I still have to find out why my end product is feeling so roughed up.

I purchased about 1000 rounds of once fired, cleaned, brass online a few months ago and just got around to reloading some of them. They all appear to have some kind of crimping or indents on the mouth. I have never seen this before. Maybe from a puller or something? Mixed head stamps. But they all seem to be non usable because it pushes out burs,for the lack of a better word, after the sizing die. I currently use a Lee sizer, but I have tried my Dillon die as well with same results. I can get all the way through the reloading process but the necks all feel like there is a rough lip remaining. They do still properly fit in a case gauge. I first couldn't figure out what the cause was and thought it was a die issue. But after swapping out everything and then running different brass through they all came out fine, so its definitely the brass. I even tried crimping down way to much to see if it smooths out but they don't. Using a chamfer didn't make a difference either. The pic makes it look like there is lip on the mouth but it feels smooth to the neck. I use a Dillon 650 if it matters. Any thoughts of how to save the brass?

I haven't seen it yet but just received confirmation from MidSouth that my back order of N320 has been shipped! 2-4# from 4/14. LOL a year and a week. I had totally forgotten!

I like it. Reusing original parts is great!

I am fairly sure its a matter of the shellpate being tightened to much. At least when I get this, I just loosen it a bit until the ball underneath the plate can actually hold it in place. I always start off with the plate to tight after a caliber change due to the added bearings to eliminate the powder snap.

I just ordered the swager as I have a lot of 223 brass that I was considering getting 1050 for. Seems like a cheaper test. Anyway the reason for my post is that the discussion of the shellplate movement and no top support. I am thinking of taking a Lee universal decaper and making a pin insert that can be large enough to cover the flashhole and create that missing top support and remove the shellplate movement. And with the design of the decaper it allows for push through if for some reason hits bottom before expected. I don't know if there is much variation between thickness of the brass base. Any thoughts on this idea? Perhaps I missed this somewhere but i haven't seen the idea yet.